Tag Archives: women who sail

Cute monkey, but his living conditions are so sad.

Islands: Nargana and Corazon de Jesus

There is a cruiser net every morning at 0830 on the SSB where information is shared.  Sometimes the cruisers net is on the VHF radio and sometimes it is on the SSB radio.  We use the SSB radio here since it has a longer reach and can be heard across the 380 islands in the San Blas chain.  Many cruisers have mentioned an island called Nargana which has gasoline, diesel, water, and provisioning.  We had been to Carti which sold similar things bu in the opposite direction of Nargana.  So, this time we wanted to try Nargana as we had never been there before and were running low on fresh fruits and veggies.

A big rain storm had just damaged the water pipes in Nargana so the entire island was without running water.  They also were out of fuel and rumor was they were low on produce, but we wanted to visit anyway.  We headed there with our friends on “Wandering Rose” close on our tail.

The winds were blowing 20-25 knots at 35 degrees so we just had a reefed jib out.  Nargana was only 6 miles away and we averaged 6 knots so we made it in under 90 minutes from anchorage to anchorage.  We did manage to collect a hitch hiker who promised not to poop on my deck. However, as we were anchoring we must have woke him up as he flew away, but not before pooping along the entire port bow!  You’re welcome for the ride.

Stupid BIRD!

Stupid BIRD!

Nargana is connected to Corazon de Jesus another small island, by a giant industrial concrete bridge.  The photo below shows the entire bridge, then the entrance on the Nargana side, then the entrance from the Corazon de Jesus side.

Bridge from Nargana to Corazon de Jesus.

Bridge from Nargana to Corazon de Jesus.

We tied up Sweetie at the Nargana dock and walked through a restaurant where people were eating.  It smelled amazing.  We had wanted to sit down to eat, but our friends were coming and provisioning had to be done. But we did see their pet monkey.  Yes, it was sad to see him tied up, but he seemed loved and was very entertaining.  He obviously knew what a camera was as he posed every time one was facing him.

Cute monkey, but his living conditions are so sad.

Cute monkey, but his living conditions are so sad.

Dave and Mary from “Wandering Rose” had been here before and met a local named “Frederiko” who had us sign his book before showing us around.  First, we explored the little island of Nargana where we witnessed many men installing pipes for their new water system.  They will have fresh running water within the week.

Frederkio, Wandering Rose, and Sugar Shack on Nargana

Frederkio, Wandering Rose, and Sugar Shack on Nargana

There were many beautiful buildings and sites on this island.  The image below shows the following (top, left to right):  House repurposed plastic bottles to make a lovely fence, local church, statue of Kuna leader, a Kuna house (tilting), new house being built and the local market where we bought provisions.

Nargana Images

Nargana Images

After crossing the bridge to Corazon de Jesus where we found the local bar (upper left corner), the Congresso (upper right corner), hospital, Jesus statue, electrical company, and another market where they were making fresh bread (image of over lower right).

Corazon de Jesus Images.

Corazon de Jesus Images.

We did not stay long as we needed to head to Salardup which was 12 miles away.  The wind had shifted and blowing at about 60 degrees which would make for a perfect sail back.  We reefed the main and the jib, averaged 8 knots speed with a max at 9.3 as we dodged the reefs.  It was a beautiful day to out on a boat and we enjoyed every minute of it.

Matt put his expert lobster skills to work and made us a lobster pasta.

Lobster Dinner risoto

Lobster Dinner risoto

New Experiences:

  • Islands
  • Local friends
  • Zig zagging around reefs under sail
A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

Texas Friends in the House: Part III

We enjoyed a lazy day on the boat and in the water in the Western Holandes and made a plan to head to Carti the next day.  Matt and I had been here before, but we wanted to show our friends the true Kuna experience.

It was a perfect downwind sail with light winds on a sunny day.  Josh and Sara helped us hoist the small spinnaker, we shut the engines off ,and enjoyed the motion of the ocean.

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

We arrived to Carti with no incident, but had a devil of a time finding a good anchoring spot.  This anchorage has really deep areas and a few shallow parts so boats congregate around the shallow parts.  We tried 8 or 9 times and could not get it to stick properly.  It was frustrating for everyone.  Finally, Davey stuck and we had a beer!  Our friends from “Itchy Foot” met us here and we all headed to shore.

We had 2 overly stuffed bags of trash and another bag of cans that we desperately wanted off the boat.  We dropped our trash at the little market that has a panga pick up and drop off on the main land.   Once of the few places you can bring your trash as Kuna have a tendency to drop it directly in the ocean.

We wanted to visit the Kuna museum and had heard that the English-speaking guide would be there.  A nice local showed us how to get to the museum as it is a hard to find.  Once we got there, we discovered that the one English-speaking guide was off island getting drunk during a multi-day celebration.  Shoot.  We decided to pay $3 each to go inside just to see what they had.

It was a really small space, about 20×20 filled floor to ceiling with artifacts, clothing, hieroglyphics, and some brief explanations.

Images: Top: Museum sign, ulu or dugout.  Second Row: hut structure, worship piece.  Bottom row: information on how they bury their dead (in hammocks), pottery, and classic men’s top.

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Ancient Hieroglyphics, animal skulls, pottery where they ferment liquor for celebrations, worship idols, clothing and mola fabric.Kuna Museum on Sugdup

Kuna Museum on SugdupThe little museum was really, really hot so we were all in need of a cold beverage.  Matt hunted down a local bar, as only he can sniff those out.  On the way, we stopped at a panderia and bought bread and a few gifts for Josh and Sara’s kids.

The beer was cold and cheap and the bar was on the water.  Good friends, cold beer, and beautiful scenery.  Perfect setting to enjoy our libations.

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

On the way back to the boat, we stopped at the market to get some fresh fruits and veggies.  They were pretty well stocked, but not as good as the first time we stopped by the week before.  I think Josh and Sara were grossed out by the freezer that had freshly plucked chickens lying about – not in packaging, just hanging out featherless in a clump.  We did not pick any up.

Back on the boat, we enjoyed another fabulous dinner concocted by Matt and a rum tasting followed.  Matt is famous for inflicting his rum tasting on friends, but Josh and Sara mastered the challenge. It’s always sad to say goodbye, but we know they will be back.

See Texas Friends In the House:

Underway to a new adventure.

Texas Friends In the House: Part II

Birthday celebration!  Today, the 16th of January was my actual birthday and it started off with breakfast pancakes and Rose!  We took our Texas friends over to “Element” where they served us delicious pancakes.  What better way to start the day than with friends, pancakes and Rose?

Pancakes and Rose

Pancakes and Rose

It was a beautiful day, the sun was out, the sky was blue and we were all in good spirits.  Everyone enjoyed the water and treasure hunting.  We found two types of conch shells: the regular conch and helmet conch which have a much prettier shell.  The regular conch was extracted and quickly served for an afternoon snack.  Josh made a great sauce and fried them up in a pan.

Conch fritters coming up...

Conch fritters coming up…

We had invited several boats over to celebrate my milestone birthday.  Friends, new and old included: w/ Darren and Kelly from “Mischief”, Jon, Mia and Teo from “Itchy Foot”, Shawn, Sherrie, Paige, Jordan, Manuel, and Nadja from “Element”, Dave and Mary from “Wandering Rose,” Mark and Angie from “Una Mas” and off course, Josh, Sara, Lisa, Matt and I.

Everyone bought a variety of appetizers, Matt made his famous tasty ribs, and libations were had by all – including jello shots.

The birthday cupcakes and the angel food cake were brought out and quickly disappeared– sweet way to start the next 50 years.  A special thanx to Lisa for saving the birthday wish!

Birthday Party on Sugar Shack

Birthday Party on Sugar Shack

Birthday on the boat with cruiser friends.

Birthday on the boat with cruiser friends.

Next morning everyone got up to go snorkeling and treasure hunting.  Always something fun to be found in the sea: shells, conch, lobster.

We decided to pull up anchor and head to Gunboat island.  Lucky for us we had just enough wind to turn off the engines and unfurl the jib for a little sail.  It was a quick, but delightful trip.  As we approached the anchorage we noticed how roly it was as the wind was coming in from a different direction.  We were going to give it a try, but as we slowed to drop the anchor it was apparent that this would not be a comfortable spot.  So, we left Gunboat island and headed to Salardup where there are several surrounding islands.

Underway to a new adventure.

Underway to a new adventure.

Matt had anchored here for 9 days while I was in the states and made friends with the locals.  Larry, runs the island for 4 months, during season.  He is a cross fit instructor in Panama during the rest of the year.  He is super lovely and welcoming and provided us with some cold beer.

A massive ship named Thalassaabout 130’+ was anchored here. She carried 43 crew, most of them students from the Netherlands on a 6-month study abroad program.  They camped on the island for a few days and were preparing to provision in Panama and then head back to the Netherlands.

Thalassa massive ship with dozens of students.

Thalassa massive ship with dozens of students.

Invading Salardup

Invading Salardup

The next day we pulled up anchor and headed to the Western most part of the Holandes Cays.  This is not the touristy part, but the more isolated islands of Waisaldup and Akuadargana.  We took Sweetie to Waisaldup first, but there was not much to do on this tiny little island besides have a beer and sit in the sand.  So, after we finished our cold beverage we headed to Akuadargana.

This was a much bigger island that had several huts which appeared to be for rent and a main congresso (meeting space) where the locals gathered.  As we entered the congresso, we noticed they had a TV!  What?  Crazy.  The boys went to explore as the girls did a little shopping.  They had molas, jewelry, purses, and head bands.

New island for all of us - AKUADARAGANA

New island for all of us – AKUADARAGANA

They also sold pure coconut oil which I had to buy to support the locals.

100% Pure coconut oil - love it

100% Pure coconut oil – love it

Thursday morning meant Lisa had to leave us.  Her panga was scheduled to pick her up early in the morning.  Unfortunately, it was raining.  We put her backpack and small carry on in trash bags and gave her a few extra bags to sit on in the panga.  It was a wet and stormy ride.  During the height of the storm, the panga stopped, said he was “lost” and asked passengers to bail water out of the panga.  I think Lisa thought she might have to swim to shore.  Luckily, the storm passed, she made it to shore, caught her 4×4 and her plane back to Texas.

As she went through her harrowing experience, I had one of my own.  My stitches had to come out.  I had asked Matt and Sara to assist.  We got out the medical bag, magnifying glass, flashlight, and scissors.  The trick is to pull the whisker, cut below the knot and pull the stitch out.  Easier said then done, especially when you can’t see all 3 stitches.  They managed to get 2 of the 3 out, with only a wee bit of pain.

Surgery at its best on Sugar Shack

Surgery at its best on Sugar Shack

As we were lounging around, a young woman came up on a SUP with a dog.  We were both from the states and she was excited to see another American boat.  She asked if we had an apple charger and we did, so she said she and her husband would come back later to pick it up.  They came around sundowner time and we enjoyed some libations.  Matt was cooking up a special treat, lobster risotto and we invited our new friends Adam and Alyssa from “Heritage” to stay.  Great conversation and scrumptious meal!

Dinner - lobsters!

Dinner – lobsters!

TEXAS FRIENDS IN THE HOUSE – CONTINUES…STAY TUNED FOR PART III

See Texas Friends in the House Part I on previous post.