Author Archives: Christine

About Christine

The one that makes it all happen

Whangamumu: Echoes from a Forgotten Whaling Harbour”

Whangamumu is one of Northland’s favorite anchorage.  The bay is large and picturesque, with solid holding, and great hiking treks.

The history of Whangamumu can be considered pretty ugly.  So before we dive into that let me share some beautiful photos of this peaceful anchorage.

Waterfall Hike

Just beside the whaling station is a small path that leads to a waterfall.  Lucky for us it had just rained so the water fall was flowing nicely.  Unlucky for us in that with the rain came some severe storms which caused a mess on the path.

It took us less than 10 minutes to get to the base of the falls.

Matt decided to hike up the falls (in his flip flops) and captured some more photos. 

Can you find me in the left photo and Matt in the right?

The Whaling Station at Whangamumu

Note:  Whaling is now considered abhorrent.  However, back in the day, it was a way to feed families, and provide oil for lighting and more.

This bay is best known for its remote, abandoned whaling station

This was once a bustling industrial site.  It was established in the 1800’s and expanded into a full processing station by 1910.

It was Northland’s longest running whaling operation which finally shutdown in 1940. 

However, rusting machinery and concrete ruins are left behind.  The natural bush is slowly taking over creating an eerie yet beautiful site.

Why was Whangamu’s Whaling Station Unique?

It is believed to be the only whaling station in the world that used nets to catch the whales. 

Most of the operations used boats and harpoons.

During its peak, this operation had processing plants, boilers, slipways, and oil vats that lined the shore. 

Up to 70 whales a year were caught and processed here.  Every part of the whale was used and nothing was wasted.

The whaling station was finally closed due to economic issues and the steep decline in the humpback whale population.

From shore you can just make out the large concrete vats where they used to collect the oil.

We believe this is an old heat exchanger of some sort. 

We were not sure if the concrete wall was added later or if it was part of the original build.

There were lots of bits and pieces on the grounds.  Can you make out what any of them used to do?

There were three signs.  However, only two of them were legible.

The old slip where the men winched the whales to the plant is still partially seen offshore. 

As very sad part of history. 

However, with conservation efforts the humpback whales are  returning to their former glory.

Find Whangamumu on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts are 6 weeks behind actual live events.  We enjoyed the beautiful bay of Whangamumu around mid-April 2026.

Majestic Maitai Bay

Maitai Bay is a super special anchorage with pristine twin bays.  You can find Maitai tucked on the Karikari Peninsula in Northland, far north New Zealand.

We have wanted to visit this tiny anchorage for a few years.  However, you need good weather to make it this far North.  In addition, you have to have fairly settled conditions to stay in the bay.

Sporty Passage

We left Whangaroa heading North 25nm to Maitai Bay.  We did not expect the big winds (gusts up to 38kts) and choppy seas.  It was a bash into the waves for 4.5 hours!

Not a pleasant day at all. 

However, as we neared the anchorage we were greeted by a huge flock of little black birds.

The two beaches are absurdly clean and peppered with sea shells and pebbles. 

The beautiful towering mountains shelter the beaches from the strong winds typically associated with the Northland.

Beach Walk

We decided we needed to “touch land” as soon as we set the anchor.  

It was low tide so we had a very large, beautiful beach to walk on.  

There were sections covered in pebbles and rocks and other sections covered with shells.

There is great snorkeling just beyond these rocks. 

However, the water was way too cold for us to even consider swimming here.

It is unfortunate that we were not able to spend more time in Maitai Bay. 

There are several beaches to explore and a few other hikes.

We visited Maitai Bay mid-April 2026.

Find Maitai Bay on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts run 6 weeks behind actual live events.

Ocean Days and Starry Nights: Passage NZ to New Cal

After patiently waiting (and occasionally refreshing weather models like it’s a full-time job), we are finally ready to start our passage from New Zealand to New Caledonia.

A good weather window has opened, and it’s time to go make use of it—heading out for 6–7 days of beautiful ocean sailing, starry nights, and the kind of quiet horizon that reminds you why you came to sea in the first place.

We’ve paused our scheduled blog posts for the duration of the passage.

Instead, Matt will be doing some “live blogging” along the way—real-time updates from the motion, the miles, and whatever the ocean decides to serve up.

Scheduled posts will resume on 16 June 2026, once we’re back in range of reliable internet (and slightly more stable footing).

In the meantime, you can follow our journey by heading to our website homepage, clicking Current Location, and then following the PredictWind link to track our progress across the blue.

Thank you for the continued support, messages, and encouragement—it means a lot to have you following along with our adventures aboard Sugar Shack.

Fair winds, and see you on the other side of the ocean.