Tag Archives: cruising on a boat

We all have our vices.

Journey from Las Perlas to La Playita

Up and away we go, time to leave Las Perlas.  We have a 45-mile journey back to the next anchorage, La Playita.  It was eerily quiet, with flat, flat seas and a strange haze all around us.  Our wind indicator pointed to our location which meant we had no sails up. But, with 2000 RPM’s we were averaging 7 knots of boat speed.

Eerily still and hazy on the way to La Playita.

Eerily still and hazy on the way to La Playita.

A small pod of 5-6 dolphins came to play with us for a while.   They did not stay long on our journey, but they made a big impression.

Dolphins swam with us on the way to La Playita

Dolphins swam with us on the way to La Playita

I took this picture of my reflection in the water while we were underway, that is how still the water was on this trip.  I am laying down on the tramp, you can see the mast behind me.  Pretty cool.

My reflection on the water while underway.

My reflection on the water while underway.

We were all enjoying the large amount of wildlife around us, tons of birds, dolphins, sting rays, turtles, fish, and whales.

Heather enjoying the wildlife in the Pacific.

Heather enjoying the wildlife in the Pacific.

As we approached La Playita, we were accosted by huge cargo ships, car transports, and mega yachts.  The commercial vessels are waiting to transit the canal or they just transited the canal.  And evidently, La Playita is home to many, many mega sport fishing boats and mega yachts.

Large cargo ships & yachts in La Playita anchorage.

Large cargo ships & yachts in La Playita anchorage.

There is a beautiful view of Panama City as you approach and leave the La Playita anchorage.  Bottom photo is La Playita anchorage.

View of Panama City and La Playita on the bottom

View of Panama City and La Playita on the bottom

There was no wind when we arrived to the La Playita anchorage so all of the boats were facing every which way.  Great!  We found a spot close to a few familiar boats and dropped the hook.

We enjoyed a little leisure time, each doing our best to cool off as it was stifling hot with the lack of wind.  Not getting much relief, we headed to shore to grab some lunch.

On the way to the dinghy dock, we saw Barry from “White Shadow” who told us which restaurant had the best wifi.  Now we have a destination, which is always good.  We easily found the dinghy dock, unloaded, and went on our way.  I stopped by the marina office to pay the dinghy dock fee ($50 per week-OUCH) and met the others down the road.

We walked by a mini market, Abernathy (chandlery), and a few tourist traps before we found the main road.  There is a row of restaurants, but we headed toward a pizza place called La Eskinita, where we enjoyed a cool breeze while overlooking the marina.

We did a little window shopping as there are tons of tourist stores, found a great ice cream parlor and a café with decent wifi.  All the important things in life.  We ran into Johanna from “Iriss” and she showed us another place with decent wifi called Hacienda.

We all have our vices.

We all have our vices.

It was late in the day when we headed back to the boat.  On our way, we stopped by “Kokopeli” (Brian and Mizzy) who were hosting “Nomad” (Tom and Susan) for sundowners.  We chatted a bit and headed on.  We had not seen these boats since Portobello.

Since we ate so late in the day, we were not hungry for dinner, so we served cheese and crackers and left-over pizza.  It was a rolly night as the fishing boats, tankers, and pangas go by at crazy fast speeds.

The next morning, Heather, Michael, and Wayne packed.  It was time for them to head back to the states.  We transferred Heather’s great photos from her camera to our phones, made breakfast, and chatted until we had to make our way to shore.  Omar, the taxi driver who picked up Wayne would pick up our group and take them to Tocumen airport.  It has been an amazing journey and we were thrilled to have them on Sugar Shack.  Always sad to say “goodbye.”

Matt and I wandered around the little town to get the “lay of the land”, headed back to the boat, did some laundry and tried to stay cool as it was a hot one.

Wildlife in the Pacific Seen in First 2 Days:

  • Whale spouts
  • Dolphnis
  • Stingrays
  • Jelly Fish
  • Variety of Birds
  • Turtles
Sea Treasures

Holandes Cays, Panama

We enjoyed a lazy morning, reading, blogging, and breakfast. We thought we would try to circle back to Ogopsibudup where we caught a glimpse of internet before going to our next anchorage. However, wifi alluded us, so we moved onward and stayed within the Holandes Cays.

We motored 9 miles to the Holandes Cays, which is a set of 21 mostly uninhabited islands broken into 3 groups: Western, Eastern, and Central Holandes Cays. These are a favorite stop for cruisers as it lies behind a 7-mile protected barrier reef. The Guna refer to these islands as the “Kaimou” and the Columbian traders refer to the Holandes Cays as “Mauqui.”

Our destination is the most popular anchorage in San Blas, the swimming pool anchorage which is located between Banedup and BBQ island in the Eastern Holandes Cays.

Four other boats were already at this anchorage when we arrived, but the bay is large enough for everyone. The spot we picked gave us an unobstructed view of the reef from the bow and an island view from the stern. We jumped in the pretty water, checked the anchor, and snorkeled over to the reef.

The sea floor was covered in huge sand dollars, both live and dead. We picked a few as souvenirs and moved on toward the reef where we were greeted by a majestic spotted eagle ray that had a 6’ wing span. He was so beautiful gliding through the water! There were several coral heads, a few fish, and even some new coral head growing among the grass. On the way back, I found a beautiful sea biscuit and Matt pointed out a really thick stingray with a stubbed tail. He had some girth! We hovered and watched him glide by not even giving us a second glance.

Sea Treasures

Sea Treasures

As we were drying off on the sugar scoops, another dugout arrived selling more molas. This master mola marker’s name was “Venancio” and his molas were extremely elaborate and intricate, but since I had bought one yesterday, I just admired.

BBQ island got its name from the many barbeques cruisers have on the island. We thought we’d check it out, so we hopped in Sweetie, pulled her up on the beach, and started walking toward the make-shift bonfire. A local and his son approached us and informed us that there is a $3 per person charge for tourists. Hmmm. We did not bring any money, considering we came over in our swimsuits, so turned around and left. I can appreciate his entrepreneurial spirit, but $3 per person seems a bit unreasonable to walk around a very tiny island. They had a few hammocks, a hut (which is where they live, we assume), and a few make shift tables.

BBQ Island

BBQ Island

We checked out another nearby island to see if it could work as an impromptu substitute for bbq island.  Sweetie was left ashore and we started walking around, but before we got too far, we were immediately attacked by no-seeums. Poor Matt, his body is littered with bug bites, guess he is much sweeter than Wayne and I.

Back to the boat for pork chops and baked potatoes.

Lots of Islands Visited:

  • Holandes Cay
  • BBQ Island
  • Banedup
Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Green Island, Panama

We had a lazy start, might be because rum was involved or because we were lulled to sleep by two pretty large thunderstorms. After we stowed the secondary anchor and cleaned up the boat, we headed to Green Island also known as Kanlildup.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

The wind did not cooperate, as we headed toward Green Island and continued to be on our nose. With our fuel tanks less than ¼ tank full, we are doing our best to conserve our diesel. But, having the wind on our nose and lots of shoals on either side of us makes it challenging to tack safely under sail. So, we motor on…

As a side note, Matt and I had wanted to fill our fuel tanks in Santa Marta, but Columbia only sold 5% bio-diesel. We could have put an additive in to make the bio-diesel burn better, but we did not want to mix fuels. So we left leave Santa Marta with our tanks less than half full.

Along the way, we pass many islands that look very inviting….after all there are 382 islands in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

Sailing (or in our case motoring) from Columbia, heading west, the islands start to become more populated with other cruisers. The Eastern San Blas islands were very desolate, remote, and not considered tourist destinations. However, as we head up the chain, we start spotting other boats and cruisers. In fact, we passed our first sail boat on the way to Green Island.

Green island’s popularity has grown over the years because it offers cruisers a nice protected bay with great snorkeling, and it is close to Rio Diablo. It’s covered with palm trees, large and small, creating a dense space of greenery.

Approaching Green Island

Approaching Green Island

Entering the anchorage, we quickly found several boats anchored around other small islands. Luckily, none are near Green Island so we have it to ourselves, for today. Not long after we anchored, a small dugout approached us with a woman, man, and small child. So, the “boat boys” begin.

To our surprise, this was the famous master mola maker and infamous transvestite, Lisa from Rio Sidra. We had read about her in our cruising guide and several cruisers had posted about her handy work. She took out each of her molas, one by one, explaining the design and intricacies of her work. She travels 4 hours from her main island to come sell her goods to tourists. As tourists don’t visit her island.  She shares the profits with her village and other mola makers.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

A traditional mola is several layers of fabric, between 3 to 7 and very intricate. A “fake” or non-traditional mola uses applique. I purchased a mermaid 5 layer mola and quickly turned it into a pillow

My new mola turned into a pillow.

My new mola turned into a pillow.