Tag Archives: san blas

Left Jib up to hoist spin, then took jib down,

Sailing from San Blas to Colon

Parting is such sweet sorrow, especially when you are leaving the San Blas islands.  We have thoroughly enjoyed spending the last few months exploring this amazing and beautiful island chain but it is time to head to Colon.  The overall sail to Colon is about 80 miles and we decided to break it up into two days.

The first day we sailed to Portobello which was 58 miles.   It was a lovely day, bright, blue sky, 2-3 meter waves, 20-25 knots of wind, beam reach.  We hoisted our main to one reef, rolled out the jib to 1 reef and were on our way.  It was lovely and so peaceful.  After about four hours, the wind dropped to 15-20 knots so we unfurled the jib.  We averaged 7.1 knots in speed, but with a few good waves we had a max speed of 11.3 which was fabulously fun.

Portobello has many derelict boats afloat and over 6 semi-sunk yachts so it is a bit unnerving trying to find  a place to drop the hook.  Especially because there are not that many shallow spots, most of the anchorage is 10+ meters deep.  We drove around a bit, attempted to stick the hook several times before finally dropping next to our friends on “Heritage” in 11 meters of water.  After we dropped 90 meters of chain, we headed in to shore.

On the way into town, we passed our friends on “KDans“.  We had seen this boat in Curacao, Bonaire,  and Aruba but we had never officially met them in person.  We swung by, they invited us up for a chat and they mentioned they had seen us in St. Maarten and the BVI. Small world.  Super nice people.  Unfortunately, they had been struck by lightening the week prior and had to be hauled out in Linton Bay to do repairs.  They told us that 5 boats had been struck by lightening which is frightening.  We heard of a boat being hit in the San Blas as well.  Always a fear as you lose all of your electronics, fridge, freezer, depth, autopilot, GPS, everything.

The last time we were in Portobello, I stopped by Iglesia de San Felipe where the Negro Christo is located.  The church was closed, but it still demanded your awe as you passed by.

Iglesia de San Felipe

Iglesia de San Felipe

However, the first time I visited I was not able to buy rosary beads so I wanted to go back to purchase one.  The rosary beads are special here because they are purple (see post on Portobello).

Purple rosary beads from Iglesia de San Felipe

Purple rosary beads from Iglesia de San Felipe

We grabbed some dinner and on our way back to the dinghy dock, ran into an English speaking family from a boat called “Gallivant.”  We chatted briefly with them and determined we would see them in Shelter Bay as we were both heading that way.

The next day we headed to Shelter Bay in Colon. We enjoyed a leisurely morning as the sail was only 20 miles away.  Now, which sails to put up? With winds blowing 15-18 knots, 2 meter seas and a wind direction of 140-160.  The jib was unfurled completely for the first 30 minutes and determined that we could throw the spinnaker up.  Sweet!

Transition with the spin up and just before we took the jib down.

Flying the jib as we hoisted the small spinnaker.

Flying the jib as we hoisted the small spinnaker.

We made excellent time, making 20 miles in a few hours, average speed 7.1, max speed 10.7.  Our friends on “Una Mas” left from another bay when passed them. We hailed them on the radio and told them we’d meet them at the marina.

Matt got lucky and caught a large yellow fin tuna which made for several yummy meals.

Nice yellow fin tuna

As you enter Colon you immediately start to see many huge container ships, cargo boats, and large vessels that have just transited the canal or are staging to go through.

Cargo Ships, Shipping Containers and large Vessels outside of breakwater.

Cargo Ships, Shipping Containers and large Vessels outside of breakwater.

The shore is peppered with huge cranes to offload cargo.

Cranes off the coast of Colon, Panama

Cranes off the coast of Colon, Panama

Continuing on through Colon, you come upon the breakwater where you enter for the Panama Canal and Shelter Bay Marina.  We were given strict instructions on how to proceed through the breakwater to avoid the big ships and keep Sugar Shack safe.  We hailed the Canal authorities 8 miles out that we were in transit to Shelter Bay and then again at 2 miles out.  Upon entering the breakwater, we hailed Shelter Bay to notify them of our pending arrival.

Panama Canal Entrance - breakwater.

Panama Canal Entrance – breakwater.

I took this image from the internet (owner unknown) but it showed the entrance to the breakwater (see green and red circles at top center).  Then we followed the green diagonal line (toward left lower corner) and to the brown circle with the red arrow which is Shelter Bay Marina.

Entrance to Panama Canal breakwater.

Entrance to Panama Canal breakwater.

The dock master asked us to head to the T-head on C-Dock.  Luckily for us, the marina had provided a map of the breakwater channel and a map of the marina so we knew exactly where we were going.  You enter passing the large ship dock (slanted dock lower right) and we are at the end of the next dock.  Not in the image as this was take before we got there.

Shelter Bay Marina. Photo courtesy of charterworld.com

As you enter the marina channel it appears really narrow as it is shallow mangrove area to the left and boats/docks to the right.  Matt had to turn Sugar Shack around and head in stern first so that the port side of the boat would be on the dock.

With a little help from the marina and another cruiser, we arrived with no issues.

Sugar Shack docked at Shelter Bay Marina

Sugar Shack docked at Shelter Bay Marina

Did you note the beautiful fender covers?

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Kuna Indians in Guna Yala

The Kuna (or Guna) Indians have struggled for over hundreds of years for their independence.  They originally lived in the Darien Mountains but they slowly immigrated to the San Blas islands in the 1700’s.  They fought the Spaniards, Colombians, Panamanians, and pirates.  Here is a great website on the Kuna Indians.

In 1925 they agreed to be a part of the Republic of Panama if the government agreed to respect their tribal laws, traditions, and culture.  The Kuna received partial autonomy in 1930, and 1938 they were recognized as an official reserve. By 1945 they had a constitution and by 1953 they were granted full administrative and judicial powers.

Each year, the Kuna participate in a reenactment of the revolution.  It is NOT a celebration, but rather a reenactment to remember the struggles their ancestors went through to gain their independence.  It is also used as an educational opportunity for the youth.

The Guna Yala are very proud of their traditions and customs.  A traditional Kuna village is like stepping back centuries, but visitors are very welcome and appreciated.  Most of the small islands do not have running water or electricity beyond solar power or small generators.  But they survive, are happy, and live long lives.  They are a very peaceful, friendly community the sell molas, fish, lobster, octopus, crabs, fruits, veggies and more to tourists and cruisers.

Guna Yala is a matrilineal society where the women control the money.  The women select their spouse when they are mature enough, but not at any specific age.  They are not allowed to marry outside of the tribe which has caused a kind of genetic insulation and there are many albinos and most Kuna are short in stature.  If they marry outside the tribe, they will be shunned and not allowed back.  The husband moves into the woman’s family compound

Kuna woman walking in standard outfit for women

Kuna woman walking in standard outfit for women

KUNA VILLAGES AND HUTS

The Kuna huts are made from renewable and fast-growing materials.  The roofs are composed of special palm fronts, dried and tied together with each palm costing $0.50 (which is expensive for the Kuna).  The walls are made of bamboo and tied together with twine or fabric.  There are no nails or commercial products and most huts stand for over 15 years against torrential storms.  The interiors are very sparse with dirt floors, hammocks and a few tree trunks for chairs and tables.

Kuna home and twine holding bamboo shoots together

Kuna home and twine holding bamboo shoots together

Most islands do not have running water or restrooms in their huts.  The villagers (and public) use outhouses built like a room, over water.

Floor of the public bathroom

Floor of the public bathroom

KUNA HEALTH

The average lifespan for the Guna Yala is well over 100 years.  Lisa, the master mola maker told us that the average person lives to be 115-120!  Her parents both lived to be 97 years old and thought to have died young.  Good clean living is a testament to a long life.

KUNA HEIRACRCHY

There are many Guna Yala communities within the San Blas Island chain.  Each community consists of several islands and has 3 Sailas (chiefs), with one is superior.  In addition to these Sailas, there are junior Sailas (akin to executives) and Sualipetmar which are their version of police, and a shaman “Nele” medicine woman/man.

CONGRESSO

The Sailas meet in the “congresso” the biggest hut in the village, where they sit and swing in hammocks situated in the center of the room.  As guardians of the Guna knowledge, the Sailas rarely give direct orders.  They do communicate through “Argars” which are powerful and important personalities that interpret the Sailas’ wisdom.

Seated around the Sailas and Argars are two rings of people.  The inner ring is composed of women and children and the outer ring contains adult males.  Everybody has the opportunity to express complaints or ideas.  This can be a grievance against your brother, spouse, neighbor, or lover.

COMING OF AGE
It is a special occasion when young girls “come of age.”  All of the men in her village with come bearing palm fronds to build her a room within her parents’ hut.  Inside this room, will be a very small canoe or ulu where she will bath and be blessed.  Only her family and girl friends are allowed inside her room.

The village will celebrate this occasion with a celebration where a family member will host a 4-day party providing food, beverages, and entertainment at no cost for the entire village and community.  “Chica” is brewed from sugarcane and other special ingredients, which is the main drink consumed at these festivities.  It takes 10 days to ferment and is stored in large pottery.

Kuna require that you ask permission before you take a photo as they do not like to be photographed and be prepared to be turned down.  I think I asked over a dozen Kuna for permission and only received a few affirmations.

Kuna Indians in San Blas:

Sweet Kuna man carving wood

Sweet Kuna man carving wood

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

 

Me slipping down a little waterfall.

Rio Sidra Adventure: Waterfalls, rapdis, hiking, swimming

Our friends on “Freya” helped us organize a river tour on the Rio Sidra with Master Mola Maker Lisa.  Originally, we were going to have 12 people:  2 from Sugar Shack, 6 from “Itchy Foot” and 4 from “Wandering Rose.” But “Itchy Foot” had to head West so it was just 6 of us plus 4 girls from a different charter.  Lisa and her helper, Fernando picked us all up before 0900 and we had an hour panga ride to the river opening.  It was a bit wet, bumpy, and uncomfortable.  Our bums were hurting from the wood planks we were sitting on, but we endured.

Image: Top is panga (with “Wandering Rose” and 4 guests from another charter) coming to pick up Sugar Shack, middle is “Wandering Rose” and Sugar Shack; and bottom is an image of the charter girls.

Panga ride to River Sidra Tour

Panga ride to River Sidra Tour

It quickly shallowed as we entered Rio Sidra so our guides had to lift the outboard and paddle the panga to get through.  It was very lovely and serene as we paddled up the river with low overhanging trees, birds chirping, and the soft lapping of the water on the boat.  The Rio Cedra means mermaid river in Kuna.  Which is so appropriate as I bought a mola from Lisa with a mermaid on it several weeks ago.  Lisa is in the top left corner and doesn’t look as scary as the photo (just a bad photo with the wind catching her hair funny).

Traveling along the river Sidra.

Traveling along the river Sidra.

At one point, our guides actually got out into the water and took our panga for a walk.

Once we got to our destination where the panga ride ends and the hike begins, we all hopped out and started the walk in the jungle. Before we started on our hike, Lisa informed us that we can take pictures of everything except when there are Kuna present.  And we would not be able to take photos at the cemetery if a ceremony was taking place.  As luck would have it, there was no ceremony at the cemetery.

After about 20 minutes we came to the first cemetery used by the Kuna community.  Kuna have very strong cultural beliefs when it comes to the burial of their people.  They are buried in hammocks just below ground level (not deep like in the U.S.)  Lisa informed us that the first burial site was for children.  The Kuna had brought several children to Panama City for simple ailments like asthma and yet they perished in those hospitals.  So the Kuna no longer send their kids to Panama City.  Very sad.

Kuna burial site.

Kuna burial site.

Along the way, Lisa pointed out one of the special trees used for creating their dugouts (pangas or Ulu).  It is an immense tree and so very beautiful.  The one she showed us is protected because of its location by the cemetery.

The Ulus are made from these massive giant trees.

The Ulus are made from these massive giant trees.

We continued on our journey through the jungle as Lisa pointed out plants, the Kuna mountain, and a few animals.  She is very informative and speaks English pretty well!

Kuna jungle hike up to the waterfalls.

Kuna jungle hike up to the waterfalls.

Ten minutes after we walked through the cemetery, we had the good fortune to pass a medicine woman, or “Shamen” or “Nele” as they are called.  She was accompanied by a male helper who was also a medicine man, but lower in status, in training.  He was not her husband, but a assistant.  The Nele was lovely, pleasant, and courteous.  She stopped and looked us all in the eye as she shook our hands.  She also gave Lisa a Kuna cross to protect us from any dangers on our adventure.  We were not allowed to take any photos of her which is a shame as she was beautiful.

As we continued to walk along the path, a beautiful, majestic mountain peaked out between the clouds and fog.  Lisa told us that this was the border between the Kuna land and the Panamanian land.  She said that the Kuna believe there ancestors hid precious stones, gold, and silver in those mountains from the conquistadors during the revolution.  Their treasures are protected by giant animals including pumas and serpents.  The Kuna Indians do not go to this mountain at all.  The mountain was covered in a dense fog and did not come out well in my photo.

Lisa and her guide found local flowers and handed one to every female guest.  We proceeded to put them in our mouth for a fabulous photo op.  Left to right: Lisa, me, Karen, Laurel (charter), Mary, Jen, Anita, and Bonnie (last 3 charter).

Marilyn Monroe lips for the ladies

Marilyn Monroe lips for the ladies

The entire hike took about 90 minutes to walk up to the Rio Sidra waterfalls, not but because it was a hard hike.  Rather because we were enjoying the scenery and commentary.  When we arrived at the Rio Sidra waterfalls, our guide showed us how to jump off the 12’ cliff into the very deep, fresh water pool.  After his demonstration we all ate lunch and decided who was going to hike back the way we came or who was going to swim and hike back along the river.  Only 2 of the charter guests decided to hike back the way we came – everyone else jumped in and did the river route.

It was brisk, but refreshing – especially after our hike through the jungle.  There were two rocks you could leap off of into the Rio Sidra pool just past the small waterfalls.  One was higher than the other and you had to navigate a really slippery edge, leap over rocks below before landing in the water.  The other was closer to the water, not slippery and went straight down. Guess which one I took and which one Matt took?

Matt leaping off the cliff with the GoPro.

Matt leaping off the cliff with the GoPro.

Our guide surprised us by swimming under a rock and popped up on the rapid side (going against the current).  It was a huge rock.  He then repeated the process going with the current.  Pretty remarkable.  Mary and Dave followed behind him, but the rest of us just admired.  Evidently, you had to swim down about 3-4’ below the rock, open your eyes and swim on through.

After a relaxing swim, we decided to head back.  Two of the charter guests walked back with one guide and all of our belongings that needed to stay dry.  The remaining 8 of us followed Lisa down the river.  We each had really tall walking sticks to assist us across the rocks, stones, logs, and small rapids.  The journey was a combination of walking over rocks and boulders, swimming, and hiking.

Fifteen minutes in to our swim/hike we came to a waterfall.  Lisa proceeded to pitch all of our walking sticks down the river and told us to follow her as she jumped off a rock.  WTF!  She didn’t tell us this was in the plan.  I pointed to shorter walks and she said “no” and pointed to where she just was.  Crimey!  This time, I weaseled my way to the front to jump before the charter guests as they made me nervous with their hemming and hawing.  I looked once, plugged my nose, and took a giant leap off the rock.  Whew!  Exhilarating and terrifying all at once!

Down the Rio Sidra river, we came to a small rapid and Lisa showed us how to go down them.  Not around them, but down them.  She laid down, put her arms across her chest, head down and let the water taker her down to the next pool.  We all followed and it was thrilling!  You are gently carried along with the water until you go over and then you are plunged into the deep water before popping up.

Me slipping down a little waterfall.

Me slipping down a little waterfall.

As we were walking down the river, Lisa had stopped at a large rock just above the water.  She had written the date and her name with another red rock and instructed us to write our name which we did.  Of course, this will wash off with the river water.  Sugar Shack is in the upper right corner just above the red rock we used to write our names.

Graffiti to leave our mark - using red rock on rock

Graffiti to leave our mark – using red rock on rock

We had the pleasure of going down another set rapids which were a little bigger and it was just as fun! But before we were to go down the rapids, Lisa took some red dirt and gave us each a blessing.  First the ladies,  she wiped a stripe down our noses and a mark across each cheek, then the men received a stripe down their nose.

Mary and I with the marks of our blessings on our faces.

Mary and I with the marks of our blessings on our faces.

She said that this was a blessing in Kuna culture that was washed off as you descended down the rapids.

Mary and I with the marks of our blessings on our faces.

Mary and I with the marks of our blessings on our faces.

Matt taking the GoPro for a swim down the river.

Matt taking the GoPro for a swim down the river.

Had to walk our panga back as the tide was out.

Had to walk our panga back as the tide was out.

It was an incredible day, beautiful weather, spectacular scenery, and fun adventure.  Spending most of the day in fresh water was invigorating, but the panga ride back was wet and salty.

When we returned to the boat we rinsed everything off, showered, cleaned up and had our friends from “Wandering Rose” and their guests over for sundowners.  Matt cooked up some fresh basil mozzarella pizzas for everyone, Mary brought a tasty spicy corn dish over and enjoyed libations until almost midnight.

New Experiences on the Rio Sidra:

  • Jumping off a cliff
  • Going down a rapid
  • Walking in a jungle in Kuna territory
  • Putting a wild flower in my mouth
  • Being blessed by a Kuna
  • Swimming in Rio Sidra as a mermaid