Tag Archives: san blas

Cute monkey, but his living conditions are so sad.

Islands: Nargana and Corazon de Jesus

There is a cruiser net every morning at 0830 on the SSB where information is shared.  Sometimes the cruisers net is on the VHF radio and sometimes it is on the SSB radio.  We use the SSB radio here since it has a longer reach and can be heard across the 380 islands in the San Blas chain.  Many cruisers have mentioned an island called Nargana which has gasoline, diesel, water, and provisioning.  We had been to Carti which sold similar things bu in the opposite direction of Nargana.  So, this time we wanted to try Nargana as we had never been there before and were running low on fresh fruits and veggies.

A big rain storm had just damaged the water pipes in Nargana so the entire island was without running water.  They also were out of fuel and rumor was they were low on produce, but we wanted to visit anyway.  We headed there with our friends on “Wandering Rose” close on our tail.

The winds were blowing 20-25 knots at 35 degrees so we just had a reefed jib out.  Nargana was only 6 miles away and we averaged 6 knots so we made it in under 90 minutes from anchorage to anchorage.  We did manage to collect a hitch hiker who promised not to poop on my deck. However, as we were anchoring we must have woke him up as he flew away, but not before pooping along the entire port bow!  You’re welcome for the ride.

Stupid BIRD!

Stupid BIRD!

Nargana is connected to Corazon de Jesus another small island, by a giant industrial concrete bridge.  The photo below shows the entire bridge, then the entrance on the Nargana side, then the entrance from the Corazon de Jesus side.

Bridge from Nargana to Corazon de Jesus.

Bridge from Nargana to Corazon de Jesus.

We tied up Sweetie at the Nargana dock and walked through a restaurant where people were eating.  It smelled amazing.  We had wanted to sit down to eat, but our friends were coming and provisioning had to be done. But we did see their pet monkey.  Yes, it was sad to see him tied up, but he seemed loved and was very entertaining.  He obviously knew what a camera was as he posed every time one was facing him.

Cute monkey, but his living conditions are so sad.

Cute monkey, but his living conditions are so sad.

Dave and Mary from “Wandering Rose” had been here before and met a local named “Frederiko” who had us sign his book before showing us around.  First, we explored the little island of Nargana where we witnessed many men installing pipes for their new water system.  They will have fresh running water within the week.

Frederkio, Wandering Rose, and Sugar Shack on Nargana

Frederkio, Wandering Rose, and Sugar Shack on Nargana

There were many beautiful buildings and sites on this island.  The image below shows the following (top, left to right):  House repurposed plastic bottles to make a lovely fence, local church, statue of Kuna leader, a Kuna house (tilting), new house being built and the local market where we bought provisions.

Nargana Images

Nargana Images

After crossing the bridge to Corazon de Jesus where we found the local bar (upper left corner), the Congresso (upper right corner), hospital, Jesus statue, electrical company, and another market where they were making fresh bread (image of over lower right).

Corazon de Jesus Images.

Corazon de Jesus Images.

We did not stay long as we needed to head to Salardup which was 12 miles away.  The wind had shifted and blowing at about 60 degrees which would make for a perfect sail back.  We reefed the main and the jib, averaged 8 knots speed with a max at 9.3 as we dodged the reefs.  It was a beautiful day to out on a boat and we enjoyed every minute of it.

Matt put his expert lobster skills to work and made us a lobster pasta.

Lobster Dinner risoto

Lobster Dinner risoto

New Experiences:

  • Islands
  • Local friends
  • Zig zagging around reefs under sail
Sea Biscuits. Treasures of the sea.

Canbombia: The Friendly Island

We needed to clean the boat and start a few boat projects now that our guests have left.  But first we had to run a small errand for our friend Louis on “Freya.”  Our plan was to stop in Banedup (E. Lemons), then head to Salardup, then explore Canbombia, Nargana, and a few other new islands.

First, back to the East Lemons to give Louis some items I brought back with me from the states.  As we were anchoring in the “high rent” district up toward the reef, Louis came by in his dinghy and told us to meet him ashore for lunch.

We set Sugar Shack and headed toward Banedup.  It was a slow day at the bar, so we were able to order us up some chicken and coconut rice.  We caught up with Louis and enjoyed a really juicy chicken lunch.

The boat was a mess and it was driving Matt and I crazy.  I started in on the laundry as that took the longest and would require us to make more energy and water.  After we set the first load out to dry, we headed over to “Freya” for sundowners.   A quiet evening with friends.

The next day, Mariah, Louis’s crew offered to give me a massage for my birthday which I jumped at.  She does a combination of massages and it felt wonderful.  Newly refreshed, I jumped in the water and went in search of sea biscuits.  On my last visit here, we found a lot of them around the corner of Nuinundup and I wanted to get a few more for friends back in the states.

Sea Biscuits. Treasures of the sea.

Sea Biscuits. Treasures of the sea.

Next, we were on the move toward Salardup where it is less crowded.  Our friends “Itchy Foot” and “Wandering Rose” both had guests onboard and were planning on being in the same anchorage.  Funny that we knew 2 of the 5 boats anchored here.  We arrived after lunch and went for a snorkel.  Matt had the Hawaiian sling in hand with the hopes of catching some lobster.  We found 3 lobsters but were unable to catch them as they are fast little buggers!

We cleaned up and headed to shore see Larry, the local Kuna onshore, for some cold beers.  Our friends from “Itchy Foot” and “Wandering Rose” joined us for some beers.  It was a good group of cruisers and guests enjoying the local way of life.

Impromptu gathering on the beach

Impromptu gathering on the beach

We motored past a long island called Myriadup which is in the process of being cleaned up for tourism.  They brought in local workers who stayed on island (in the blue tents), to clear the mangroves.  As we went past, it looked really good and very similar to Salt Whistle Bay-one of our favorite spots in the Caribbean.

Myriadup under clean up.

Myriadup under clean up.

As we approached the western end of Canbombia, we witnessed a local fisherman using a huge cast net.  Very fascinating to watch.

Local Kuna fishing with an enormous cast net.

Local Kuna fishing with an enormous cast net.

It took us a few tries to catch the hook, but we finally dug Davey in at 2.7 meters of water.  Canbombia is a really pretty anchorage surrounded by reefs.  The water is clear and blue, the island is clean and trees are abundant.  3 pangas approached us immediately, each selling something different.  One had pulpo (octopus), one had crab, and one sold us 3 medium size lobsters for $12.  There seems to be two established Kuna residents on either side of the island.

Hernando lives at the larger of the two establishments and was hosting a dinner.  We went over and asked him to add us for dinner so we could join our friends on “Wandering Rose” who were anchored here as well.  Hernando was the chef and he has lived on island for 3 years and will never go back to Panama. He has one natural son and the rest of the bunch of kids are cousins visiting during school break.  All of the kids go to school in Panama and stay with other relatives.

He had a nice little set up with logs for benches, molas for side coverage, a tarp for a roof, and a little battery pack for light.  Coco Loco’s were served which is a coconut cut open (with coconut juice) and added rum.  Made for a festive table.  The menu consisted of lobster, crab and coconut rice.  Hernando is an exceedingly friendly and jovial man.  He tries very hard to please his guests and went out of his way to make sure we were happy – and we were very happy!  He alone, makes it worth visiting Canbombia!

Dinner with Herando and Wandering Rose crew.

Dinner with Herando and Wandering Rose crew.

The next day we went back to the island to explore and walk around.  The had a nice little dirt path that took your around the entire island in about 20 minutes.  Along the way we saw several semi dead Portuguese manawars which have been spotted all across the San Blas islands.  These are very poisonous creatures and cause severe pain when they sting you.

Canbombia walking path around island.

Canbombia walking path around island.

Hernando’s next-door neighbor had several pigs, one running around and three in pens as well as a large trap area for his lobster, crab, and small fish that he serves tourists.  Hernando then pulled out his lobster trap (lower left corner) and his nephew showed off a catch.

Animals on Canbombia island.

Animals on Canbombia island.

Boat projects in Canbombia:

  • Pressure wash topsides
  • Clean Waterline
  • Scrub heads (bathrooms)
  • Bleach shells, sea biscuits
A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

Texas Friends in the House: Part III

We enjoyed a lazy day on the boat and in the water in the Western Holandes and made a plan to head to Carti the next day.  Matt and I had been here before, but we wanted to show our friends the true Kuna experience.

It was a perfect downwind sail with light winds on a sunny day.  Josh and Sara helped us hoist the small spinnaker, we shut the engines off ,and enjoyed the motion of the ocean.

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

A day out with Betty, our small spin, Josh and Sara

We arrived to Carti with no incident, but had a devil of a time finding a good anchoring spot.  This anchorage has really deep areas and a few shallow parts so boats congregate around the shallow parts.  We tried 8 or 9 times and could not get it to stick properly.  It was frustrating for everyone.  Finally, Davey stuck and we had a beer!  Our friends from “Itchy Foot” met us here and we all headed to shore.

We had 2 overly stuffed bags of trash and another bag of cans that we desperately wanted off the boat.  We dropped our trash at the little market that has a panga pick up and drop off on the main land.   Once of the few places you can bring your trash as Kuna have a tendency to drop it directly in the ocean.

We wanted to visit the Kuna museum and had heard that the English-speaking guide would be there.  A nice local showed us how to get to the museum as it is a hard to find.  Once we got there, we discovered that the one English-speaking guide was off island getting drunk during a multi-day celebration.  Shoot.  We decided to pay $3 each to go inside just to see what they had.

It was a really small space, about 20×20 filled floor to ceiling with artifacts, clothing, hieroglyphics, and some brief explanations.

Images: Top: Museum sign, ulu or dugout.  Second Row: hut structure, worship piece.  Bottom row: information on how they bury their dead (in hammocks), pottery, and classic men’s top.

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Kuna Museum on Carti Sugdup

Ancient Hieroglyphics, animal skulls, pottery where they ferment liquor for celebrations, worship idols, clothing and mola fabric.Kuna Museum on Sugdup

Kuna Museum on SugdupThe little museum was really, really hot so we were all in need of a cold beverage.  Matt hunted down a local bar, as only he can sniff those out.  On the way, we stopped at a panderia and bought bread and a few gifts for Josh and Sara’s kids.

The beer was cold and cheap and the bar was on the water.  Good friends, cold beer, and beautiful scenery.  Perfect setting to enjoy our libations.

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

Afternoon at Bar Garcia

On the way back to the boat, we stopped at the market to get some fresh fruits and veggies.  They were pretty well stocked, but not as good as the first time we stopped by the week before.  I think Josh and Sara were grossed out by the freezer that had freshly plucked chickens lying about – not in packaging, just hanging out featherless in a clump.  We did not pick any up.

Back on the boat, we enjoyed another fabulous dinner concocted by Matt and a rum tasting followed.  Matt is famous for inflicting his rum tasting on friends, but Josh and Sara mastered the challenge. It’s always sad to say goodbye, but we know they will be back.

See Texas Friends In the House: