Category Archives: Locations

Places around the world

Masonic Lodge, Levuka

Levuka, Fiji’s Old Capital

We really wanted to visit Levuka, Fiji’s first capital.  However, the anchorage is completely exposed offering very little protection.  So, instead we decided to hire a car from Rukuruku Bay to take us to Levuka for the day.

There is a lot packed into this blog as we share a little history and a lot of monuments and historic remnants from the old capital.

Levuka History

Levuka was once Fiji’s capital and a bustling town. Now, when you visit it is a trip back in time and untouched by mass tourism.  It is Fiji as it used to be in the old days.

UNESCO declared the entire town of Levuka as a World Heritage site in 2013. For being “an outstanding example of late 19th century Pacific port settlements, reflects the integration of local building traditions by a supreme naval power, leading to the emergence of a unique landscape“.

It is believed that traders and settlers founded this town as early as 1830.  Levuka was the first European settlement in the Pacific Islands.

In the 19th century merchants, ships, and sailors arrived turning this into a thriving,  rowdy, and lawless place.

In 1874, the King of Fiji ceded the islands to the Queen and Fiji became a British colony. Law and order took over and the first Fiji school was built.

The rugged mountains surrounding the town prevented economic growth.  The government decided to relocate the capital to Suva in 1882.

Levuka was Fiji’s capital from 1874 to 1883.

Fiji’s old capital is famous for a lot of “firsts” including:

  • First Bank
  • Post Office
  • School opened in 1879
  • Private Member’s club
  • Hospital
  • Town Hall
  • Municipal Government
  • Newspaper (1869): Fiji Times which is still in print today
  • Hotel: Levuka’s Royal Hotel (oldest hotel still in operation)

Levuka is a tropical volcanic island surrounded by coral reefs.  Approximately 8,000 residents live on Ovalu with 25% of them living in Levuka.

Main Street in the Old Capital

Beach Street is the main street in Levuka. This historical town has ancient buildings and store fronts that line the beach community.  Many of the storefronts are original or remodeled fronts existing in the late 1800’s.  

The Bank of New South Whales, Morris Hedstrom, and Gulabdas & Sons were all original, renovated store fronts with new businesses thriving inside them today.

Westpac bank has taken over the Bank of New South Whales.  It seemed so strange to see the 1909 storefront with ATMs below it.

Morris Hedstrom converted the old market into a modern grocery store. Originally built in 1878.

Historical Monuments in Levuka

There are two war memorials in downtown Levuka.  The Fiji War memorial and the European War Memorial.

The Fiji War Memorial in Levuka is a solemn tribute to the nation’s soldiers who served in various conflicts.  The site features plaques and monuments detailing the heroic deeds of Fijian soldiers, ensuring their stories are preserved.

The European War Memorial is dedicated to Fijians who perished during WWI.

The Ruins of the Masonic Lodge

The Masonic Lodge organization was originally created in 1871.  It took several years to raise funds and build the meeting space, the Masonic Lodge in 1913. The Roman architecture stuck out as unusual amongst the other British buildings in town.

In 2000, a small group of locals set fire to the historic building, destroying most of its structure.

However, in December 2024, the University of Fiji reopened the Masonic Lodge remnants  as a Garden of Peace.

Deed of Cession

Fijians erected the deed of cession to honor the place where Fiji became a British colony on Oct. 20, 1874.

This memorial includes a cession stone indicating the spot where 13 Fijian Chiefs ceded Fiji to Britain.  Two additional stones, a flagpole and 4 anchors mark Prince Charles’s visits for centenary and independence celebrations.

Locals built a large bure (Fijian traditional house) in 1970 for Prince Charles when he visited Fiji during Independence celebrations.  It replaced another earlier bure which King George V stayed in when he visited Levuka as a young Duke in the 1890s.

Historic Remnants

Ovalau Club is Fiji’s very first private members club. It is the oldest social organization in the South Pacific; a living reminder of Levuka’s colonial past.

Fijians built the Royal Hotel in 1860. It was well-known as one of the finest accommodations in Fiji. 

The hotel comes complete with a widows tower (turret like structure) where sailors could check on sea conditions.  Many notable people stayed here back in its prime.

Sailors Home is a small version of a B&B for sailors. Built by a ship’s captain in 1860 so sailors could keep a watchful eye on their ships in the anchorage.

199 Steps to Mission Hill.  As you climb the 199 steps you pass by some of the oldest buildings in Levuka.

Sacred Heart Catholic Church

Sacred Heart Catholic Church is a prominent architectural site built in the late 1850’s.  Early on, the church’s 24 meter tower doubled as a lighthouse.

Levuka is home to St. John the Baptist Catholic Church with beautiful architecture. 

The locals are preparing to paint both the church’s interior and exterior.

The Bishop’s Tomb is the final resting place of Fiji’s first Catholic Bishop and his successor.

Old German Cemetery

We find a small cemetery and David Whippy Memorial  just off the main road.

Interesting Links:

  • Levuka’s History: www.levukafiji.com/about-levuka
  • Things to do in Levuka: www.levukafiji.com/activities-levuka-ovalau 
  • https://fijiguide.com/destination-fiji/levuka/levuka-activities-attractions/ 
  • www.fiji.travel/places-to-go/outer-islandslomaiviti-lau/locations/best-historical-sites-to-visit-in-levuka 
  • Lekuva on No Foreign Land

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We explored Levuka toward the end of July 2025.

We adventure in Rukuruku Bay, Ovalau.  A local family adopts us and we hike to a lookout and waterfall in our last blog post.

Ovalau and Rukuruku Bay

Ovalau island is an extinct volcano which has a oval shape. The island has a rugged mountainous interior and a coastal ring around the edges.

We anchor in Rukuruku Bay which is on the north western side of the island.

The hillsides are lush and green reminding us of the Marquesas in French Polynesia. The highest peak is 626 meters above sea level.

Over 8,000 people call Ovalau home.  And of that 8,000 over 25% live in the old capital of Levuka and 10% live in Rukuruku Bay.

There is one road that makes a circumnavigation around the entire island (50km or 30 miles).  This road connects most of the villages which are located along the coast including Fiji’s first capital, Levuka.

Rukuruku Bay

Our first stop on the island of Ovalau is Rukuruku Bay.  We stop in to do sevusevu and are immediately welcomed into the community.  Our host family, Joe and Kara invite us to church the next day.

There are two churches in this small village.  One is Catholic and one is Methodist.  The Catholic church does not have a priest so they do not have services.  So, we attend the Methodist church.

It is a rather large building with amazing acoustics.  They start the service with beating of the Laili (Fijian drum).  The church interior is very simple and only about 25 people are in attendance.  It was a rather long service of over 2 hours but the singing was beautiful.

Walk Around Town

Our host family told us we could walk to the top of the ridge to see beautiful views of the anchorage.  So, we went exploring after church with a few guides.  

The majority part of the walk was on the main dirt road. 

The road is surrounded by beautiful scenery, towering mountains, and lush hillsides.

The kids decided to take us off the main road to a small waterfall. 

Probably not the best timing as we were still in our church clothes, but off we go.

The boys had a blast showing off.  They leapt off trees and cliffs into the clear water below. 

The three photos below show one of the boys doing an impressive flip into the water.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Ovalau toward the end of July 2025.

We explore the exclusive private island of Wakaya in our last blog post.

Exploring Wakaya Island

Welcome back to Wakaya, a private island.  We continue our explorations of this beautiful piece of Fijian paradise.

The Wakaya Island Resort and Spa allow us to explore their island, despite it being an exclusive resort.

The Chieftain’s Leap

During 1800’s the neighboring island of Ovalu successfully attacked and conquered the island of Wakaya.  The strong warriors with “white men and guns” were no match for the three local Wakayan villages.

The warriors killed the men and kidnapped the women.  The chief, 20 warriors and a few remaining villagers fled to the hills.  With no possibility of a truce, the chief decided to leap off the cliff to avoid torture and capture.  20 of his warriors followed.

The locals now refer to the cliff as “The Chieftain’s Leap.”

We drive 20 minutes down a bumpy dirt road to the bottom of the tallest cliff.

It is a short 20 minute walk to the cliff.  The path is well marked and is mostly flat.  There are a few places you have to scurry over tree roots, rocks and boulders.

At the top of the cliff, we were rewarded with amazing views.  It was truly a spectacular experience.

Staff Village

After we visited the Chieftain’s Leap we stopped by the staff village. 

There is a multi-denominational church, nurse’s station, community center, and school (K-8).

We visited the school which was by far the highlight of my year! 

The 23 students sang “Lean on Me” which made me cry and then they sang “We are the World.”  It was so beautiful!

Wakaya Island Resort and Spa

Some more pretty photos of the resort from the anchorage.

We enjoyed a most delicious meal.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual live events.  We were visiting Wakaya around the end of July 2025.

Don’t miss part I of our Wakaya Stay called “Wakaya, a Private Island.”