Category Archives: Fiji

Makogai; The Pacific’s Only Leper Colony

Makogai is a true example of Fiji’s astounding resilience and success.  This island is most well known for being the only leper colony in the Pacific.  And today it is a Maricultural Center saving Fiji Reefs by culturing Giant Clams.

Leper Colony

Makogai Island became the first and only leper colony in the Pacific.

The Makogai Leprosy Hospital, in Dalice Bay, was officially opened in November 1911 and closed in 1969.

The hospital started out with 40 lepers and grew to 700 in the 1950s. Over 4,000 patients landed on the island while the hospital was open.

Patients came from all of the British colonies of the Pacific as well as from various territories of New Zealand.

Patients who were not residing at the hospital were living in villages organized by ethnicity.  This allowed each community to keep their traditions and religious practices. 

The patients were expected to grow food, fish, graze cattle and do craft work.

The Results of Leprosy

The hospital effectively treated and sent home over 2,500 patients.

Around 500 were repatriated back to their homeland and the remaining 1,241 died due to the disease.

The cemetery spans across many acres.  Although, Mother Nature has reclaims a lot of the ground and gravesites.

Many are so overgrown that you can’t see the headstone. And yet most are not even accessible on foot due to the thick forest and overgrowth.

Fijian Sister, Maria Agnes Filomena lived on the island for 30 years as a worker and a patient.  Her grave along with hundreds of others are at the Makogai cemetery.

One of the locals returned to Makogai to place this beautiful plaque at his grandfather’s grave.

Unfair Practices

The leprosarium in Fiji was renowned internationally as a model of discipline and social peace. Despite its reputation, the leaders imposed a racial hierarchy on the island resulting in white people receiving more rations than non-white.

The Fijian government, which ran the leper colony, accepted patients from all over the Pacific.  They then charged the various governments fees to accommodate these non-Fijian patients .

Ancient Structures Still Standing

Cyclone Winston and time almost completely demolished the original leper colony structures. 

However, we discovered several key buildings still standing over 100 years later. 

The steps leading up to the hospital and the hospital toilets are still around.

Our guide pointed out the “new” hospital.  This hospital was built after the leper colony was shut down and before Cyclone Winston.

There is a lovely path from the “village” to the cemetery. 

As you travel down the path, you pass the old movie theater, prison, foundations for old dormitories, a small bridge, and the church gates.

Four dorm blocks believed to have been Chinese or Indian quarters are within walking distance from the hospital.

Movie Theater

The projector building and the pillars for the screen are still standing. 

Inside the projector building you will find the pedestals for the projectors, a film room, and the windows used to project the movies. 

It is really nice to know that they had some form of entertainment for the leper colony.

Prison / Jail

Believe it or not, they had a jail for the naughty patients.  Patients got in trouble for stealing rations and or invading the opposite sex campsite.

The prison was super hard to find because it is completely covered by vines, trees, and bushes from the road.  However, if you stand with your back to the theater (looking across the road and toward the beach) you can see the 1 palm tree that is growing right next to the jail.

These are shots taken from the forest (opposite side from the main path).

We bush whacked our way to the jail to capture these photos.

More Remnants

Makogai was the first island to have a telephone center. We did not find the telephone center ruins, but we did find (2) telephone poles.

We also found a water storage building, toilets, and another storage facility with a large headstone moniker (not a grave stone).

Where did they go?

Makogai was also the first island to have a post office and a coconut soap factory.  But we were not able to locate these buildings.

  • The first Pacific Post Office
  • First Telephone Center
  • A coconut soap factory (with a massive engine house, island store, and old bakery).  

However, nobody could point us to these sites.

Excellent video on the Leper Colony on Makogai!!!!

This was an interesting web page on Makogai’s leper colony.

Check out No Foreign Land

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Makogai around mid-July 2025.

Did you read about Koro, the fertile island?

Koro Island: The Fertile Island

Koro Island is the seventh largest island in Fiji. The island is tucked halfway between Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. It is the shy gorgeous cousin of those two more famous islands.  However, it is less touristy, more authentic, and packed with charm.

Koro island has a rugged and hilly terrain, lush with rainforest, coconut plantations, and beautiful views. 

There are 14 traditional villages with a population of a 5,000 Fijians.

Koro is the most fertile island in Fiji.  It boasts of large plantations and thriving tropical forests.

Most of inhabitants are subsistence farmers growing kava and selling copra.  However,  forestry and timber logging are also important economic factors.

The volcanic island has a ridge in the middle which runs from North to South and reaches 561 meters at its highest point.

Forests cover the center of the island and coconut trees line the coasts. 

History

Captain William Bligh of HMS Bounty was the first European to discover Koro and Maokgai Islands in May 1789.

American Marine Regiments used Koro Island as part of Operation Dovetail during WWII.

Explores named the Koro Sea after this volcanic island.  

Tropical cyclone Winston devasted the island in February 2016.  Winston was the most intense tropical cyclone in the Southern Hemisphere on record.  The center of the storm passed right over the island.

Around 3000 people of its population were homeless after the storm. Since then the island, the resilient Fijians have slowly recovered from this disaster.

Life at Koro Island

We went to the next bay over to do our sevusevu with the chief. 

Most of the 200+ locals were up at the farm leaving the village completely desolate. 

The chief and his brother accepted our sevusevu and showed us around.

We had hoped to go to shore to walk the beach and find a path over to the other side of the island. 

However, it was king tide making the beaches inaccessible during low tide.  And during high tide there was not much of a beach to walk on.

There is a very yacht friendly resort being built called Koro Island Resort.  They are located just over the hill. 

They installed (4) moorings for visiting yachts and they allow yachties to enjoy the facilities.

Nature blesses us with this beautiful sunrise on our last day at Koro Island.

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events.  We motored to Koro Island around mid-July 2025.

Check out No Foreign Land

We encounter a humpback whale and a pod of pilot whales in the span of 1 hour! Check it out.

Whales in Fiji?

We had a 30nm journey from Savusavu to Koro Island which was scheduled to take us 6 hours.  Forecast showed light winds, but we still hoped to have enough wind to sail.  Unfortunately, we did not. It ended being a slow motor.  What can cheer up a motor day?  Whales!

However, we were blessed with two incredibly rare sightings!

Humpback Whale

We were only about an hour outside of Vanua Levu when we spotted a humpback whale!  Typically, whales only pass through Fiji on their way to Vanuatu. 

But the dive operators were telling us that they are seeing more and more sightings of whales this year.

To our great amazement we spotted this beauty hanging out and playing.

This beautiful teen had a lot of barnacles on its nose, but it stayed with us for about 20 minutes. 

This whale came right up to the side of the boat!  Such a beautiful sight to see.

We left after 20-minutes as we did not want to overburden the humpback whale.

Pod of Pilot Whales

We see something on the horizon as we are still high off of our uber rare humpback whale sighting.

We thought it was a pod of dolphins.

But as we got closer we realized they were too big to be dolphins and they had round heads.  

It was a pod of pilot whales! 

We had never seen a pilot whale in person – let alone an entire pod.  What a rare treat!

In case you need decent photos of each whale species:

Dolphins

To wrap up our awesome day, a pod of dolphins came swimming up to the boat.

So, even though we had to motor the entire 30nm to Koro, we had two incredibly rare opportunities to see whales!  

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events.

We discovered these whales on our passage to Koro Island around mid-July, 2025.

Check out our adventures and sightseeing escapades in Somosomo.