Category Archives: French Polynesia

French Polynesia islands including: Marquesas, Society, Astrolls, Tuamotus, and Gambiers

Secluded Paradise: Ile de Akamaru

Leave a reply

We decided it was time to move on after being in Rikitea, the main anchorage in Mangareva, for a week.  The winds directed our destination and we headed to a new island (to us) called Ile de Akamaru.  It is a short motor of 4.4nm from Rikitea to Akamaru with the wind directly on our nose.

We had to play dodge ball around the pearl farm floats.  It would be helpful if they would be white or a bright color, but we came across a lot of black ones which are hard to see in the sea.  In this photo I pointed out 3 of the 5.  Can you see the other 2?

Hidden Floats in the Lagoon

Hidden Floats in the Lagoon

This island has a small pass that is about 1.5 meters deep.  Technically, we could enter the pass and go all the way to shore with the big boat as we only draw 1.3 meters.  However, the wind was blowing the wrong way and would have caused our boat to drift close to the corals and seriously, that is way too close for us.  We ended up finding a beautiful patch of sand in 2 meters of water.  Gorgeous!

Ile Akamaru

Ile Akamaru

Akamaru was discovered in 1797 and is relatively small with a surface area of 1.5 km.  It is on the southern side of the Gambiers and not often visited by tourist. 

Ile Mekiro

A half mile north of Akamaru is a very small, uninhabited island called Ile Mekiro with a lovely cross at the top ridge.  Time to explore.  We left the dinghy just off the small beach (top photo) and discovered a bazillion broken oyster and conk shells.  Must have been a place to shell at one time?

Little Beach

Little Beach

We could not find an actual trail so we picked a spot and started climbing up.  About half-way up the hill we ran across a baby goat who was crying for its mama.

Baby Goat Came out to Greet Us

Baby Goat Came out to Greet Us

We found the path, once we arrived at the top of the hill.  Matt walks ahead toward the cross (upper right) and then we were rewarded with beautiful views of the bay.  You can see Sugar Shack just below the cross.

Concrete Cross at the top of the hill

Concrete Cross at the top of the hill

The island must have had a cross facing each direction of the bay, but only one remained standing. Two of the concrete crosses were on the ground.  That must have been some strong wind to knock them over.

Damaged Concrete Crosses

Damaged Concrete Crosses

More views from the top.  The first photo is Taravai (left) and Mangareva (right).  The second photo is the house boat that is in the center of the lagoon in Akamaru, Sugar Shack on the 3rd pic and Akamaru is the bottom photo.

Views from the top

Views from the top

Akamaru

We stopped by the house boat and met Remy and his wife.  They live part time on the boat and part time in their house on Akamaru.  They generously provided us with some tasty bananas!  I made some banana muffins as a thank you and when we dropped them off, they gave us two huge papayas.  So generous.

At shore, we pulled up at the cement dock and were floored by the stunning road leading from the water to the “village.”

Island Roads

Island Roads

We hung a left which led us to the rather large church.  It is amazing that such a huge church is on this island with maybe 10-12 locals. However, at one point in time there were probably a few hundred people farming here.

Church on Akamaru

Church on Akamaru

You could walk up to the bell tower and view the interior of the church.

Inside of Church on Akamaru

Inside of Church on Akamaru

We came across 5 houses that looked inhabited, but only ran into one local.  The houses that were lived in were lovely and well maintained.

Lived in homes on Akamaru

Lived in homes on Akamaru

However, there were many old, abandoned, stone houses along the long, green road.  You have to search for them among the trees and bushes, but they are there.  Evidently, Akamaru was a bustling town at one time.

Abandoned Homes

Abandoned Homes

The road changes from a gorgeous, green super highway, to a dirt road lined with tall, sweeping trees, and a small path along the river.

Cool path exploring the island

Cool path exploring the island

Some Cool Photos of Akamaru

Enormous flowers grow on this lovely island.

Some pretty flowers

Some pretty flowers

We found a little pig farm with 3 piggy’s who were super excited to see us.

Pets or Food?

Pets or Food?

Near the water is a shady area under a giant tree with a bench.  Perfect to pine the day away.

Relaxing spot under a tree

Relaxing spot under a tree in Akamaru

And on the other side of the dock is a beautiful spot to enjoy a nice swing.

Life is good when you are on a swing

Life is good when you are on a swing

A friendly little kitty came out to play with us.  So full of love.

My little kitty that followed me around

My little kitty that followed me around

Sugar Shack at anchor in front of Ile Mekiro

Sugar Shack

Sugar Shack

We had an enormous trevali fish hanging out with us at our shallow anchorage.  He would attempt to eat anything we put in the water (bananas, banana peels, egg shells, anything).  He was about 2 meters long and super thick!  We aptly named him Rover.

Rover hanging out with Sugar Shack

Rover hanging out with Sugar Shack in Akamaru

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies on Taravai

Leave a reply

You would think we were smarter than the average bear, but sometimes, no.  After 5-days of constant rain we decided we needed to stretch our legs.  There was a hike to the top of the ridge of Taravai that had several ascending peaks.  We decided to shoot for the first peak and if we were feeling “jiggy” after that we might go to the next one.  Ha, that is funny because we did not account for the swamps which quickly turned us into the mud buddies!

It was Leela (Graham and Janicki), Pitufa (Birgit and Christian), and Matt and I.  We all met on shore at Edouard’s house.  He is one of the 7 inhabitants of this island.  He and his wife are the only people who live on the southwest side of the island and they have a huge property.  It is amazing to see the ingenious things they have done.  Edouard and Denise have the only home in the Gambiers that has a natural water fed source.  They have a pipe leading from a waterfall pool, down the hillside, direct to their home.  They also have a large solar panel system that provides all the electricity, and a strong breakwater wall to protect their home.

Edouard's House off Taravai

Edouard’s House off Taravai

Garden of Eden

Edourd and Denise sustain themselves with their bountiful garden.  They have a large green house that is currently being replanted, where they grow tomatoes and cucumbers. In addition, they grow sweet potatoes, lettuce, and mint.  They also have an abundance of fruit trees (pomplemouse, avocados, bananas, papaya, mangoes, lemons).  We each received bags of fruit for 1000xpf ($10 USD) which included a small stock of plantains, stock of bananas, avocados, lemons, and pomplemouse – a huge score for us!

Mud Buddies

Our friends on Pitufa knew of a trail that went around the Taravai ridge.  Thank goodness Christian led the group with a machete in hand.  The start of the trail was not actually a trail, but a break in the bushes.  We tromped through the knee-high grass and fallen trees right into a giant muddy swamp.  For the most part we could walk across the fallen trees to avoid the majority of the mud, but a few weren’t so lucky.  Janicky and Birgit became our first mud buddies.

Mud Buddies

Mud Buddies

Spirits high, we forged ahead.  Under giant tree limbs, over rocks, through the bushes, as we continue to look for the “trail.”  It was a slow hike up because of the mud and slippery hillside.  In addition, whoever was in the lead had to whack the bushes to make a space for passage. Poor Matt became the lead whacker.

Mud Buddy Trail

Mud Buddy Trail

The other fun thing we had to contend with were the wasps.  They build their nests in the tall grass and bushes.  They were fine until we came through with the machete and our feet.  Several of us got stung which was certainly unpleasant.  We had planned ahead and brought several lemons with us as that takes the “bite” out of the sting (sort of).

There were several beautiful views along the way.  One was of the boats (the left photo is Sugar Shack and Yelo – both Catanas).  The top right is a view of the Taravai village and the bottom right is a photo of another island.

We finally made it to the “flat” ridge point, albeit wet and muddy.  The mud buddies made it!

Top of Trail at Taravai

Top of Trail at Taravai

We decided it was too wet to continue on and frankly we were too tired.  It was not terribly far or high, but for some reason we were all tired.  Total of 2.5 miles up 29 floors and 6,603 steps.    We tracked our trail on the way down, but the silly track is yellow on a yellow background.

Mud Buddy Track

Mud Buddy Track

We descended down the mountain with no issues but decided to take the beach route back to avoid the muddy swamp.  It was truly beautiful.

Paradise After Mud

Beautiful Beach Bath

Mud Buddy Track

We made it back to Edouard’s house where we collected our fruit.  He is a super nice, albeit shy man.  He only speaks French so our friends had to translate for us.  We were super grateful for the fresh produce and his hospitality.

Edouard and his girls

Edouard and his girls

Some pretty shots

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Sugar Shack enjoying the sunset

Moonrise

Moonrise

Mt Duff from the trail

Wet and Wild Hike

Leave a reply

Matt and I decided we needed to get up and move.  We had not been hiking since the Marquesas (several weeks) and needed to re-engage our legs.  The only drawback is that we have had lots and lots of rain since we arrived.  So, we knew it would be a wet and wild hike.

We started out on the main road heading over the ridge.  Along the way we passed by the local school.  This is the only school in the Gambiers and it was in need of some lovin the last time we were here.  It was great to see that they were building new classrooms for the young people.

School Expansion

School Expansion

Tombeau de Roi

Further down the road we came across the “King’s Tomb” which is called Tombeau de Roi.  We couldn’t read the head stones, but I imagine that it will be grave sites of the past chiefs and rulers of the Gambiers.

Tombeau de Roi

Tombeau de Roi

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Just past the Tombeau de Roi is the weather station called Meteo France Station de Rikitea.  We explored the facility but missed the opportunity to see them launch the weather balloon.  Evidently, they launch the weather balloon on weekdays at 1400 which would have been fun to see.

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Meteo France Station de Riktea

Couvent de Rouru

After the road turned into a dirt road and about 1 mile down, we stumbled across an old convent.  The name is Couvent de Rouru.  As you walk up the green grassy path you walk along an old stone wall.  There were two stone buildings still standing on property.  The first is still proudly standing, albeit in ruins.  Plants, trees, and vines are trying their best to take over (upper right corner photo).  Inside there is one carved cross still visible.

Couvent de Rouru

Couvent de Rouru

Further inside is another stone ruin plopped in the middle of the grassy field.  Behind the convent was a gorgeous arch that leads to a grassy path below the trees.

Couvent de Rouru

Couvent de Rouru

Baptismal Pond

We stumbled across the baptismal pond which needed some serious lovin as it was not something you wanted to be baptized in.  Hidden in the floral bushes was a mound marked by a sign that read “Baignoire de J.A. Princesse.”  Climbing up the mound is the pond overlooking the bay.

INSERT 3 COLLAGE (dated 24 May)

Chemin des 12 Apotres

We finally get to the start of the trail, Chemin des 12 Apotres (12 Apostles) which had a nice little sign, some old ruins, and a carved stone at the entrance.

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Within the first ½ mile we came across more ruins hidden in the trees waiting for someone to explore them.

Chemin des 12 Apotres

Chemin des 12 Apotres

The path was incredibly muddy, slippery, and wet.  Just a small part of the wet and wild hike.  But the good news is we came across several waterfalls that were flowing nicely with the recent rainfalls.

Two small waterfalls

Two small waterfalls

A huge squall hit us about 2 hours into our hike.  We hid under a giant rock to avoid being drenched.  It only lasted for about 15-20 minutes.

Hidden from the storm

Hidden from the storm

We had our Garmin GPS and maps.me to prevent us from getting lost.  But, you know how that goes.  The trail we were on was not on either instrument.  But what we could tell was that the road which ran above us had ended.  Yikes.  We decided to try to find a path up to the road to head back.  We were about 3.5 miles into our hike at this time.

Forging Our Own Path

There were no trails, not even goat trails.  We started up the hill and realized our path was covered in raspberry bushes.  Which sounds pleasant at first considering we did not bring lunch and we were starving.  But then reality sinks in as these bushes are covered in lovely little prickles that stick hard and deep into everything!  And to top it off, the raspberries were not ready for pickin!  So, we decided to go up the little river/waterfall to limit the amount of whacking we had to do to clear a path.

Matt led the way with a giant tree stump and whacked the path for both of us (so sweet).  Up we climb the waterfall, across stumps, boulders and debris.  Super slippery, wet, and challenging.

Forging our own path

Forging our own path

After about 1.5 hours of climbing we finally came across a dirt road, thank God!  We were both so tired and sore from being stuck by bushes.  I wanted to show you how high we had to whack our way to the top, but the bottom photo does do it justice.

Long walk home

Long walk home

When it was all said and done, our wet and wild hike was 5 hours, 6.4 miles, 15,520 steps and 33 floors.