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15' ladder

Raiatea Carenage Haul Out

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It was time to haul Sugar Shack out and I was on pins and needles!  We left our anchorage at 0600 and arrived at Raiatea Carenage at 0715.  Arriving early, we had 30-45 minutes to wait so we hovered by the entrance and watched them prepare the platform.  We were being hauled out on the platform and would remain on the platform while they do the work.

Five employees worked diligently to get the platform ready and lowered into the water.  They store it on a driveway (for lack of better word), and slowly let it descend into the water.  Once in the water, they set lines based on our boat’s dimensions.  When they are ready, the wave us in.  Photo: #1 shows the platform on the driveway (below the monohulls) with rails.  #2 shows the platform lowering into the water, #3 shows the workers in the water waiting for us to drive up to them.

Look where the man in blue shorts is standing – he is on rails which is part of the platform on the cement slope.  The #2 has the platform half in and half out of the water.  

Raiatea Carenage platform haul out

Raiatea Carenage platform haul out

It is really freaky driving over huge steel rails with people standing on them!  What if we hit the rails?  Or a person, or the ground?  Oh my goodness!

Raiatea Carenage has a platform system which is pulled by an 8 to 1 pully system that required constant lube and water.  The top photo shows the owner, Dominique operating the pully system and the bottom photo is the platform attachment point.

Securing the Boat to the Platform

Once the boat is aligned, they start attaching lines.  This was a constant push and pull to get the boat centered on the platform.  They attached a line from the starboard bow to the port side platform and from the port bow to the starboard platform (a criss cross).  Then they repeated the same thing with the stern.  Next, they attached a line from the center of the bow to the center of the platform and from the center of the stern to the center of the platform (prevent forward and reverse movement).

Securing Sugar Shack to platform

Securing Sugar Shack to platform

Lifting Out of the Water

The pully pulls the platform out of the water.  The platform’s outer edges glide over rollers which are on rails.  It was shocking to see the workers right in front of the platform adjusting these rollers while under water!  I could not believe the danger they put themselves in.  The photos below show what they are doing once the platform came out of the water – but they did this under water too.  They place the rollers under the steel rails to allow a continuous movement of the platform.  Yes, the entire platform that holds our boat is directly over his fingers.

Almost out of the water, you can see the entire platform and pully system

You can see the wood blocks they placed, while under water, to set the boat on the platform.  They put them under our bulk heads (the strongest part of the boat) to support us on the platform.

This is the fun ladder I get to climb up and down on to get to shore.  I hate it!  It wobbles and is creepy.

15' ladder

15′ ladder

PRESSURE WASHING

We still had soft growth and algae on the boat, despite the fact that we cleaned the water line and the bottom of the boat the day before we arrived.  The start of the work is pressure washing the boat. As you can see, we are in desperate need of a bottom job (new paint).  We change the color of our bottom paint to know how many layers down we are.  On the center photo you can see at least 5 colors!  Yikes!  And look at that growth. Workers are pressure washing the boat in the top photos.  The bottom photos show the boat after the work is done. 

Pressure washing the grime away

Pressure washing the grime away

Hauling out other boats

Today was an extremely busy day for Raiatea Carenage. They hauled out 6 boats.  The yard used the platform to haul Sugar Shack out.  The same workers used a 25-ton trailer to haul out another catamaran.  The catamaran had to navigate down a narrow waterway to get lifted out by a trailer.  A mono and 4 other boats were lifted out by a travel lift.

French Polynesia Can Be Dangerous

There have been many stories of boats running aground in French Polynesia. Especially in the Tuamotus where there are lots of coral heads and hidden reefs. Four boats were severely damaged after running aground last year.  Raiatea Carenage was still working on three of them when we arrived..

Over 135 boats have been repaired at this yard since 1987.  That is almost 2 boats a month that run aground!

This yard has a great reputation for fiberglass repair work.  Which is good considering we have fiberglass repair work to do on Sugar Shack!  However, it is difficult to see these horribly damaged boats.

This 45’ lagoon is a charter boat.  It ran aground and tore off the bottom of both hulls.  They had to make a mold of the hull using another lagoon in order to recreate the original.  You can actually stand underneath and be inside the boat!

These three boats did not seem repairable, but they were going to try!

This beautiful 47’ Outremer was on a mooring in Fakarava (Tuamotus) during a maramu (big storm).  The mooring gave out and the yacht ended up on the reef.  They had both hulls and rudders damaged beyond repair.  Raiatea Carenage sent 4 people to Fakarava to transport the boat to Apataki yard and do a temporary repair which took 3 weeks.  Then they sailed it to Raiatea Carenage to finish the work (which is still a work in progress 8 months later).

Facilities

Here is a photo of the lovely bathroom that we’ve been using.  They have one head and one shower (with no locking door).  We share it with everyone at the yard and even some of the boats at the anchorage.  Luckily we have not had to wait much.

We’ve seen several people do laundry here too.  The yard provides us with water and electricity for the boat.  Good thing as we get to keep the house batteries at 100% which is rare when we are not plugged in.

The yard has access to a sail loft and two small marine stores.  They do everything here including fiberglass, wood work, metal work (aluminum, stainless, steel), paint, electrical, mechanical, plumbing.  They have a boat building business, towing and shuttle.  Very successful!

Check in on our next blog as we begin the fiber glass repair and start on a few other boat projects.

The events of this blog post occurred on 14 September 2020.  The blog post are 4-6 weeks behind our adventures.

La Pirog API

Ilot Moute – La Pirog API Resort

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Low winds were predicted for a few days so we decided to head to the east side of Taha’a.  Last year we anchored near Ilot Moute where a small 8 room resort called La Pirog called home.  Remembering it as a beautiful location, we decided to go back with our friends Jolly Dogs.

On the way over, our friends on Sea Jay (Chris and Fred) texted and asked where we were headed so they could meet up with us.  We had not seen them since we were in Tahanea well over 4-5 months ago.  Which is cruising terms seems like a lifetime.

Before we left, Baie Tapuamu we zipped over to the market to pick up some fresh bread and eggs.  We dropped the mooring and motored the 14 hours which took us three hours.

INSERT 2 COLLAGE OF ANCHORAGE

La Pirog API Resort

Our friends on Sea Jay, Fred and Chris wanted to have lunch at the little 8-room resort called La Pirog API.  Normally we would shy away from eating meals at resorts because they are expensive and usually not worth it, but we could not resist this time.  Last year we had tried to have lunch or dinner here but management would not let us dine with the guests.  Check out our post from last year.

This year the resort is under new management and they allowed us onshore for drinks, lunch and dinner.  Sea Jay picked us up and we headed to the very small Ilot Moute.

La Pirog API

La Pirog API

The island is really, really small.  You could walk around it in less than 15 minutes.  But it is so darn cute!  They have fun signs posted all over the place.   As you pull in to the dinghy dock, you are greeted by the sign that reads “You are now entering a stress-free zone.”  All guests arrive by boat from Raiatea.  The have a weather telling sign, and a wifi sign as well.

La Pirog Signage

La Pirog Signage

We were greeted at the dock and walked up to the thatch roofed restaurant.  Each table had a fresh bouquet of flowers, a hand carved outrigger was nestled in the corner and a soft breeze kissed our faces as we enjoyed a nice meal.

Restaurant at La Pirog

Restaurant at La Pirog

From the restaurant you can see the small beach and lounge area with bar.

La Pirog Beach Lounge Area

La Pirog Beach Lounge Area

Super fun afternoon.  We can’t make a habit of eating out like this, but every once in awhile it is a special treat.

Exploring Neighboring Motus

There are a few other small motus around Ilot Moute.  So, we decided to go explore them.  The first stop is Ilot Mahavana which is a stone throw away from Ilot Atara.  We arrived first at Ilot Mahavana which was a really clean, well maintained motu.  Surprise surprise!  The water was really shallow between the two motus.  Super pretty little motu with a sandy beach all around it and beautiful palm trees providing shady spots.  You can easily walk out to the reef and look out to the ocean.

           

We found a really nice and well-made structure.  We assume this building is used by charter boats to feed their guests lunch.  There was a separate facility with three toilets and multiple sinks.  In addition, there were several nice seating areas overlooking the bay.

Ilot Atara was a different story. Totally unkempt and not maintained at all.  Coconuts and palm fronds everywhere.  Making it a little challenging to explore.

We had fun playing on the reef and outer edge.  Looking at all the sea life below.

We then headed to another rock with a corroded structure.  This is not big enough to be called a motu.  We think locals come here for the weekend and just toss a tarp over the rebar.  Just past the rock is a huge fish trap.  We found a trapped spotted stingray and tried to help him get out.  Unfortunately, we just could not persuade him to leave.  Poor thing. 

We had Fred and Chris over for dinner as we are going our separate ways tomorrow.  We may not see them for a year or two.

Chris, Fred, me and Matt

Chris, Fred, me and Matt

Matt’s Drone Shots

The water is so pretty here that we decided to break out the drone.  Jolly Dogs and Sea Jay are here with us, but we are spread out enough that we don’t crowd each other.

La Pirog anchorage Ilot Moute

La Pirog anchorage Ilot Moute

Depending on how you angle the drone you can make it look like we are all by ourselves.

Ilot Moute Tahaa

Ilot Moute Tahaa

And a great shot of Sugar Shack from straight above.

Ilot Moute Tahaa

Ilot Moute Tahaa

Events of this blog occurred around 8-12 September 2020.  Our blog runs 6-8 weeks behind our adventures.

Drift Snorkel and a Rhumerie

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Our friends Mark and Isabel on Jolly Dogs have been hanging out with us near Taha’a.  This is their first time here so we decided to show them the coral gardens and the local rhumerie.  Isabel and I did the drift snorkel three times while Matt flew the drone.

Coral Gardens Drift Snorkel

The coral gardens are the most renowned snorkeling spots in the Society islands.  It is crystal clear, turquoise waters gently running from the Pacific Ocean to the Taha’a/Raiatea lagoon.  It is also called a “false pass” because water can get in and out but boats cannot due to the shallow nature.  In some places the gardens are only 1-2” above the coral while other places you can easily float by.  The current generally comes from the Pacific and pushes out toward the lagoon allowing tourists to drift snorkel over the coral gardens.

Matt took these photos with the drone.  The first photo is facing the Pacific and Bora Bora.  The second photo is the opposite direction facing the lagoon.  The bottom photo shows my friend Isabel and I walking to the end of the motu.

Here are some more drone shots.  The top is closer to the lagoon showcasing the Taha’a Resort.  The bottom photo shows Isabel and I drifting down the gardens.

Lots of amazing sea life.  My favorites are the clown fish and puffers.  I’ve written a lot of posts about the Coral Gardens so be sure to read those as well.  Use the search function on the blog by typing “coral gardens.”

These drone shots give you the entire picture of the drift snorkel.  First, you walk toward the pacific on Ilot Mahararae (top photo), then you drift down the gardens (2nd photo), then you walk out and repeat (bottom photo).  Isabel and I are in each of the 3 photos – can you find us?

Mana’o Tahiti – Rhumerie

After our snorkel we moved the big boats to Baie Tapuamu which is directly across from Ilot Tautau.  It is Mar’s birthday and he wanted to celebrate at the rhumerie.  The Mana’o Tahiti Rhumerie is a small wood structure that was built about a year ago.  It is super cute and quaint.   I love their mask sign.

Anaise started us off with a sugar cane tasting.  Who doesn’t like sucking on sugar cane?  As we were enjoying our sugar cane, she told us that Taha’a has 12 different types of sugar cane on the island.  They distill each variety separately then blend them together to make their rhum (yes it has an “h” in it as it is different than rum).  All of their rhum is agriculture rhum and made with pure sugar cane, not molasses.  Which, in my opinion is not nearly as tasty. 

Behind the rhumerie they have 7 of the 12 sugar cane for viewing.  It was really cool to see the difference in color of the stock, shape of the stock and growth of the stock.

Wine, Rhum, and Beer Tasting

We sampled the white wine next which was very dry, but ok.  I really wanted to try the rose and Mark wanted to try the red, but they would only open on bottle of wine for sampling 🙁

Next we moved on to the rhum tasting.  Afterall we are at a rhumerie and need to taste the rhum.  They have a white rhum and a dark rhum.  The white rhum was very harsh and difficult to consume.  The dark rhum is aged for one year in an oak barrel which gives it the brown color.  Both rhums are organic and received the first ever “organic rhum” rating in the world.

The sugar cane is grown, picked and distilled in Taha’a.  But the fermentation and bottling process happens in Tahiti.

The last sampling was of their local craft beer.  They had blanch, blonde, amber, and triple.  We tried the blanche and amber were pleasantly surprised.  Not bad for 380 xpf per bottle.

After a quick trip to the boat we headed to Jolly Dogs for a birthday dinner.  I made a chocolate cake, homemade mango salsa, and fresh lemon cubes (mojitos).  Even the sun was celebrating Mark’s birthday with a gorgeous shot.