Category Archives: Locations

Places around the world

Tikehau Beach

Tikehau Full of Sea Treasures

Tikehau Adventures.  Our friends on Alrisha gave us the low down on the motu.  It did not take long as it is a super small village.  There are only two streets that run parallel to each other where everything can be located.  We left the boat the next morning to go exploring.

Not many decisions to make when it comes to directions.  We left Sweetie at the little marina, walked out to the first street and decided to go to the 2nd street.  Right on the corner is the bakery.  You can order your bread in the morning and pick it up at 1600h.  They also sell propane and fuel because why not get those while you are picking up your croissants and baguettes?  To the left of the bakery and about 100 meters down is the one and only magasin (market).  We walked in, picked up some coldish beverages and continued on.

Nothing left in that direction on the 2nd road so we turned around and walked the opposite direction.  At the first opportunity, we turned left onto a dirt road hoping to come to the end of the island.  Even their dirt roads are pretty.

Dirt road on Tikehau

Dirt road on Tikehau

We walked all the way around the island along the shore of some very pretty beaches.

Tikehau Beaches

Tikehau Beaches

The black tip sharks like to swim up to shore to check you out.  We saw a half dozen just hanging out and watching us.

Sharks in 6" of water

Sharks in 6″ of water

Sea Treasures

As we walked along shore, we collected lots of sea treasures.  The beach was full of shells and bits of corals and sea urchins.  I am hoping I can figure out how to make some jewelry out of the purple urchin shells.

Sea Treasures

Sea Treasures

We stopped and at a snack shack for lunch.  Matt had a fish burger and I had chicken.  We enjoyed the cover as a squall rolled in while we ate.

Snack shack on the wharf at Tikehau

Snack shack on the wharf at Tikehau

On the way back we went back to the beach to finish our circumference of the island.  Got this great shot of Sugar Shack at anchor.

Tikehau Beach

Tikehau Beach

Another pretty beach

Tikehau beach

Tikehau beach

Anchorage

Sugar Shack was anchored off of Tuherahera motu where the main village is located.  Originally, we had wanted to visit Ilse de Eden where the Garden of Eden is located, bird island, and a few other motus.

However, we were here for several days, but did not have much of an opportunity to explore the other motus due to bad weather.  During a maramu, we hunkered down and then decided to leave at a weather window.

We did motor over to Motu Mauu which is a known manta ray cleaning station.  A quick dip in the water allowed us to admire the fish.  However, we never came across any manta rays.  Maybe next time.

Motu Mauu Manta Ray Cleaning Station

Motu Mauu Manta Ray Cleaning Station

Tikehau History

Tikehau is part of the Tuamotu Archipelago.  The lagoon is rather large and spams 17 nmm.  There is only one passe that can be used by boats and it has to be used during slack tide to avoid damage.  This motu has an almost continuous barrier reef with numerous islets covered in vegetation and coconut trees.  One the south-west part, between the village (airport) and the pass, has a reef awash with no islets.

Tikehau map

Tikehau map

Jaques Coustea made a study on Tikehau’s lagoon during a visit in 1987.  He discovered that it contains a greater variety of fish species than any other place in French Polynesia.

Today, Tikehau is a tourist destination, popular for its pink sand beaches and its exceptional underwater fauna.

Only 500 Tahitians call this motu home where they mostly live on copra, fishing, tourism and a little pearl farming.  In 2001, Tikehau opened its first resort called Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort.

Blue Fin Tuna - 25-30lbs

Midnight Runner

After our all-day tour, we dropped off Yves and Martha back on Break Away and swung by a new boat that arrived earlier in the day.  They were on the center mooring which had a chafed line.  They wanted our mooring, but we could not tell how they wanted to get it while we were still on it (language barrier).  We planned on a midnight runner and agreed to call them on the radio when we left, but they never answered.

We had to time our arrival into Tikehau’s pass during slack tide which was at 0900.  With current sea conditions, the passage was estimated to be an 8-hour passage.   Matt hoisted the main and the jib and we were off at 6kts heading toward our destination.  I was not feeling well with my sprained ankle and bruised knee so I went back to bed once the sails were set.  Matt spent the night avoiding squalls and trying to hold course.  At one point he was 30 degrees off course but it kept the boat from banging against the waves.  Leaving at midnight would allow us to arrive around 0800 which was a little before the “slack tide.”  We had a full moon that lit our path and made it a beautiful midnight sail.

Blue Fin Tuna

After our midnight runner and about 45 minutes from the pass entrance, we spotted a lot of birds circling the waters.  We headed in that direction and ZING a line went spooling out!  We fell off course and brought in the jib to slow the boat down.  It took Matt awhile to bring this guy in, but he was worth it.

Blue Fin Tuna - 25-30lbs

Blue Fin Tuna – 25-30lbs

We arrived to the pass entrance at 0815 and it looked like the waves were pushing a strong current out.  We were already nose into the wind and with a strong current out it would make it challenging to enter.  So, we circled around for a half hour before putting the engines at 2000 RPM and heading in.  We made a whopping 3 kts entering the pass with the current and wind against us.  It took us an hour to get to the anchorage once we made it safely through the pass. 

Midnight Runner Passage Details:

Miles Traveled: 60.6 nm

Duration: 11 hrs (including waiting at pass & 1 hour across lagoon)

Avg. Speed:  6.1 kt

Max Speed:  10.7 kt

Wind Speed:  10-12 kt SE

Swell:  1-1.5 SE

We dropped the hook next to two other catamarans just off the long stretch of white, sandy beach.  Within 20 minutes, the 50’ Catana owners of “Oxygen” came over to say “hello.”  We invited Guy and Isobelle up to look around.  While they were still on the boat another dinghy came by from the catamaran closer to us.  It was a charter boat that had guests from Austin, TX!  Small freakin world.  A few hours later a small boat was entering the anchorage.  Matt was quirking his head and had a strange look on his face.  He grabbed the binoculars and shouted, “No way, that’s Alrisha!”  We met them in Panama and had seen them in passing in the Galapagos and Gambiers.

We invited Ferry and Bridgette (Alrisha) and our new friends Guy and Isobell on board for sundowners.  Our friends on “Alrisha” are German and “Oxygen” is French.  Somehow with our broken English we were able to tell great stories.  

Makatea Belvedere Lookout

The Astonishing Tour of Makatea-Part II

In our last blog post we shared the mining of phosphate and some of the amazing history of Makatea.  We had so much to share that it just would not fit in one blog.  So, here is the rest of our spectacular tour.

Open Air Museum

Deep in the center of Makatea is an old building that used to be the bakery, ice storage, and magasin (market or store) for the workers.  It is now a hollow reminder of what once was.  However, Julien has plans to turn this into an open-air museum for tourists.

Abandoned Building Housed Bakery, Ice, Magasin

Abandoned Building Housed Bakery, Ice, Magasin

The pastor of the Protestant Church grows organic vanilla beans. We were super pleased to meet him and check out his crop.  He gave each of us 3 vanilla beans as a welcome!  Sweet.  It doesn’t sound like much, but he could have sold each bean for $8-12 and he gave away 12!

Organic Vanilla Bean Farm

Organic Vanilla Bean Farm

The largest hole that dug on the island is over 75 meters deep.  It was and still is a source for fresh water.  Julien had 5 men work for 11 days to clear out the debris on the bottom with the hopes of using it as a fresh water source in the future.  The pulley still stands proud on the edge of the immense hole.

Pulley used to lift water from depths of 75 meters

Pulley used to lift water from depths of 75 meters

You can still see the pipe that brought up water from the depth of the hole and then made a sharp 90 degree turn.  The hole is slightly covered by vegetation, but nobody can see 75 meters down.

75 Meter Fresh Water Hole

75 Meter Fresh Water Hole

Belvedere Lookout

We discovered a magnificent view after a small walk down a narrow path.  It overlooked the eastern beach and provided a fabulous photo opportunity.  Yves and Martha (Break Away) and Matt and I.

Belvedere Lookut Over Eastern Side of Island

Belvedere Lookut Over Eastern Side of Island

Eastern Side of Makatea

Julien drove us to the eastern side of Makatea to explore the beach and a few caves.  What a breathtaking experience.  Matt holding up the rock with his fingers – he is so strong!

Eastern Beach on Makatea

Eastern Beach on Makatea

You could climb up the rock and use a rope to walk across the ledge.  Martha is walking across the ledge in top photo when she discovers the rope just ends.  Bottom left photo is of me on the beach.

Climbing the Cliffs of Makatea

Climbing the Cliffs of Makatea

Fresh Water Cave

Julien had his friend Asu take us into a cave where we clambered down the rocks.  At the bottom was a fresh water pool below the looming stalactites.   We greedily jumped in to cool off and enjoy this rare opportunity to swim in fresh water at the bottom of the cave.  Imagine my surprise when Asu swims towards the back where the ceiling drops to less than 6″ above the water.  Using flashlights, we followed.  Ducking our heads and sucking in our bellies as we swam over stalagmites and under stalactites.  We went deeper into the cave until we came to a second pool even more awe inspiring than the first.  It had dozens of curtains and chandeliers hanging from the roof top.  Unfortunately, I did not bring the underwater camera so the only photo I could take was at the entry point.

Underground fresh water cave

Underground fresh water cave

Museum

Next to Le Maire is a small museum with old photos.  It was great to see what the island looked like in its heyday.  This first set of photos is of the port and the massive transport system they set up to deliver the phosphate to the ships

Makatea port in 1950s

Makatea port in 1950s

This is what the port looks like today:

Makatea Port 2019

Makatea Port 2019

Below: In the top photo shows the destruction of the port in the early 1990’s after they cleaned up the debris.  The lower photo is the same area. You can see the semi-circle in both photos (lower photo between Sugar Shack and trees).  The French government blew up the port in 1988 to protect the locals from injury (diving off the top and fallen debris).

Before and After Shots Port

Before and After Shots Port

After our amazing tour, we went back to Julien’s place for lunch.  He served us coconut crab, poision de cru (fresh raw fish) and a chicken stew with rice.  It included water, beer and a lovely fruit cocktail for dessert.  Our entire day, including lunch was only $50/pp!  Money well spent. Julien is next to me in the black shirt and Asu is next to Matt.

Lunch at Le Maire with Break Away

Lunch at Le Maire with Break Away