Category Archives: Locations

Places around the world

The Beautiful Manta Ray

The Manta Ray Frenzy

Maupiti has a popular snorkeling and diving spot where you can see manta rays.  There is a “cleaning station” where the manta rays go each day between 0900-1100.  We were blessed enough to visit several times during our stay in Maupiti. 

Did you know there are two types of manta rays?  The larger species (biostris) reaches 7 meters (23’) in width while the smaller (M. Alfredis) reaches 5.5 meters (18’).  Both have triangular pectoral fins and large cephalic lobes, and forward-facing mouths.  They can be found in warm, temperate, tropical waters. 

The photos aren’t the best as I’m 10 meters above them and it was cloudy, but you can still tell they are amazing creatures.

How and What they Eat

Mantas are filter feeders and eat large quantities of plankton which they gather with their mouths open as they swim.  The large cephalic lobes help funnel food into its mouth while it swims.  The photos below show you their cephalic lobes in front of their mouth

Manta Rays and their cephalic lobes

Manta Rays and their cephalic lobes

Cleaning Stations

Mantas visit “cleaning stations” for the removal of parasites. A cleaning station is a large coral head populated with a variety of fish and coral.  The manta will visit the cleaning station to have the fish swim in and out of its gills and mouth collecting parasites.

When we visited, we were able to watch several mantas come and go in an orderly fashion.  It was fascinating and beautiful.

The unfortunate thing is that not all visitors know how to act around manta rays.  We watched several tourists do horrifying things like climbing on the cleaning station, chasing the mantas, and trying to touch them.  The manta rays have been scared away before and frequent the cleaning station less and less.  So, I partnered with the Maupiti Dive Center and Manta Trust in French Polynesia  to help spread the word on how to swim with mantas.

Mating

Female mantas are not considered mature (breeding age) until they are 8-10 years old.  Manta Rays give birth to 1-2 “live pups” (as opposed to laying their eggs), once every two to five years check out mantaray-world.com for more information on manta reproduction.

The male will casually wander around the cleaning stations looking for a willing female.  The females will omit sex hormones in the water to communicate its willingness to mate.  Courting can take up to several weeks and can create “train mating.” A train mating is when up to 25-30 males, arranged one behind the other, follow the female’s movements as she leads them all.  At the end of this test, the female chooses a male and it bites its partner’s left pectoral fin to hold her. Then it positions itself so that bellies of both are bonded, and inserts one of its claspers in the female cloaca. The coupling lasts several seconds and usually the female stands still. After mating the male goes away and never returns to take part in parental care

Fun Facts:

  1. Giant manta rays are the largest rays in the world with wingspans up to 29 feet (8.8 m) wide and weights up to 5,300 pounds (2,404 kg).
  2. Manta rays are the only vertebrate animals with three paired appendages: two wing-like pectoral fins; two sets of gills; and two lobes that extend from the mouth and funnel in water.
  3. A manta ray will sometimes do somersaults (barrel rolls) while feeding to maximize their prey intake.
  4. Giant manta rays can dive more than 3,280 feet (1,000 m) underwater, but typically feed only 33 feet (10 m) deep.
  5. The life span of a manta ray is upt 40 years.
  6. Giant manta rays have the biggest brains of any fish studied so far. They use that brain power to learn, exercise their memory, distinguish between objects and even recognize themselves in the mirror.

It is hard to show just how big and magical these creatures are, but here is a photo with a diver just below the manta on the right.  It is hard to see because I am snorkeling 12 meters above them and the water clarity was pretty bad, but you get the idea.

Photos from our manta ray encounter in Tahanea while swimming in the pass.

Manta Rays in Tahanea

Manta Rays in Tahanea

Come back, I am not done playing with you

Come back, I am not done playing with you

Looks like they want to eat me, but they just like plankton

Looks like they want to eat me, but they just like plankton

A spotted ray playing with the manta rays.  He looks like a bird under water.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

The Marvel of Maupiti

Maupiti is so exquisite that we treated ourselves to a long stay.  The waters are just stunning. With blues ranging from a clear, turquoise blue, to dark blue and with many various shades in between.  The people are lovely, the town is quaint and there are both land and water sports to entertain us.

Matt and I went to explore Motu Tuanai which is a rather large motu with the small airport.  It was a blustery day with rain sprinkled in to keep it interesting.  We left rather late in the afternoon so we knew it would be a short exploration.  The beach is really nice and there are super cool inlets that fill up with the rising tide.

Walk About

Matt and I decided we wanted to take a walk to stretch our legs.  Maupiti is pretty flat all around with the exception of one rather large hill.  We decided to walk the long way around which was flat toward Chez Mimi.  We saw this cute little eatery on our bike ride and wanted to come back when it was open.  It was a 3.5 mile walk on a flat, well paved road.  We stopped along the way to admire the magasins and views.

Chez Mimi is on the beach.  It is a quaint little eatery run out of the local’s home.  We were the first to arrive at 11:00, but we brought our hunger one!  Matt ordered poison cru and I had a ham sandwich.  Not bad.

A different route back

We took a different route on the way back. We wanted to walk along the ridge, up and over the mountain.  However to get there we had to cross a local’s property. We walked up the large paved hill to get to the entrance to the trail. When we got there, the local who lived by the entrance told us it was not cleared and we could not go.  Drat.  But we did have pretty views from the top of the hill.

Maupiti view from the top of the hill

Maupiti view from the top of the hill

Maupiti has several magasins but they are all counter service.  Meaning you walk up to the counter and tell them what you want.  The problem is with our inability to speak French.  But Google Translate works and we are good at pointing and sharing photos of products.  You take for granted how nice it is to be able to roam among the products while in the States.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

The Stunning Island of Maupiti

Maupiti is a luscious, remote island located 27nm west of Bora Bora.  We had always hoped to visit this lovely piece of paradise but were unable to make it happen until now.

Maupiti Island

Maupiti Island

We visited the Society Archipelago (where Maupiti is located) last year but did not have time to navigate to this distant island.  An opportunity arose after we dropped off my family at the Bora Bora airport.  This island has a challenging pass to enter and depart the lagoon.  It is known to be difficult as you cannot enter when the winds are close to 20kts, or when there is a 2+ meter swell or if winds are coming from the south.  The prevailing winds come from the south a lot.

Where the pink and red lines meet is the entrance of the pass.  The green ships are other boats on AIS and the blue area is the channel from the pass to the village. 

Mauipiti

Mauipiti

This is a good photo of the island with all the motus around it.  You can see the one pass at the bottom of the island/photo.

Mauipiti

Mauipiti

Traveling to Maupiti

However, we picked a travel day with virtually no wind (2-5kts) coming from the east with less than a meter swell.  We arrived promptly at 1130 and on the approach swallowed hard as we noticed the huge swell breaking on the reef.  The photo below shows the reef and the small pass entrance and then the reef again.

From the photo below, you can clearly see the reef on either side of the small pass.  It is a tricky one.

Pass from high view point

Pass from high view point

A few locals were fishing off the reef of the pass indicating just how calm it was when we entered.

Pass to enter the lagoon

Pass to enter the lagoon

Once we lined up the two markers and put the boat in the center of the pass we only encountered 1kt of outgoing current.  It was smooth as silk!  We hung a left and picked up a mooring just outside the pass and close to the manta ray cleaning station (more on this later).

Our friends on Hoodoo showed up an hour later and decided it would be a drinking day!  It was great fun catching up with Yanell and Missy!

Hiking to the Top Mount Teurafaatiu

There are several towering mountain peaks that scream for our attention.  We started out around 0930 and easily found what we thought was the start of the trail.  We were using maps.me and gps coordinates from a previous cruiser.  Locals had marked the trail with 3 lines: white, red, white.  However, somewhere at the beginning of the hike we got on another trail marked with red, black, yellow.  Hmmm…well it is still a trail so we continued on.

It was almost straight up the mountain, over rocks, under trees, and with the use of a few climbing ropes on the slippery parts.  The boys forged ahead while Missy got stuck with me lagging behind (poor thing).  But, we caught up to the boys maybe 7-8 minutes behind them.

Missy (Hoodoo) and I

Missy (Hoodoo) and I

The top offered spectacular views of the lagoon, pass, and outer motus.  We also found several other trails that needed to be conquered.

The views are just amazing from the top.

Always wanting to mix it up, we traversed down the opposite side of the mountain and found the original white, red, white trail!  This trail going down was very well marked.  It is more exposed to the sun so it was also drier and easier going down.  Interesting.  Oh well, new sights and adventures.

  • Miles Hiked: 5.1
  • Steps:  13,221
  • Flights Climbed: 90 floors
  • Elevation: 1250

Bike Ride Around the Island

Missy and Yanell have fold up bikes so Matt and I rented bikes for 1,000xpf ($10) per day.  The island is not very big, a total of 7 miles all the way around, but we did manage to go down every road, dead end, and dirt path.  There Is one huge hill with a 21% incline and a 20% decline.  I walked down part of the hill as the brakes on my biked slipped.  However, the brave ones rode down the hill.

On the west side of the island we found a beautiful beach and park with the prettiest turquoise waters.

Palace by the Sea

On The way back, we stumbled across the Le Palais de la Mer (Palace of the Sea) which was incredibly beautiful.  One man has been working on the Palace by the Sea for over 20 years.  He offers tours for $20/pp which seems expensive but our friends said it was worth it.  He provides entertainment, free hand weaved palm front hats, shell jewelry, and coconut champaign.

Photo taken and posted by Les Deux Peids Dehors.

Petroglyphes

We found a sign that read “Petroglyphes.”  Superb!  We turned down the road (in Haranae Valley) and followed the trail.  

Fun Photos

Me enjoying being princess for a moment as Missy and Yanell pull Sweetie across some shallow waters.

Town markers around the island.  

Sunset and sunrise photos in Maupiti are simply stunning.

One morning I captured the sunrise and the moon (see top photo)

History of Maupti

  • Population: 1200
  • Living on 4.2 square miles
  • Technically an atoll with an island in the center (meaning it is an older island)
  • Highest peak is 1250’
  • Primary economy is noni production
  • There are ancient Polynesian archaeological artifacts dating from at least AD 850.
  • The island has had many names including Vaitu and Maurua.
  • Maupiti created the stone called “penu” a utensil used to mash food.

Maupiti’s lagoon is well-known for being one of the most beautiful! The different shades of blue will astonish you.  The coral reefs and sandbanks really bring out the shallow crystal-clear water in some places.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.