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Playa Hermosa R&R

Road Trip: 5 Beaches, 400+ Miles

Beaches, Beaches, Beaches.  Since we had a car, we decided to drive along the west coast of Costa Rica up toward the Northern beaches.  Matt mapped out our route with the goal to hit 5 beaches along the peninsula.  Pretty aggressive journey as the average speed is 60 kmh (40 mph) on a single lane highway.  This trip should take us about 11-12 hours not including stops.

Yesterday, we drove from Manuel Antonio Estates to the Southern border and across to Panama.  Today, our trip will take us almost to the  Northern border of Nicaragua (the gray line in the image below is the border) – a short hour away.

After this trip, we pretty much drove the entire western coast of Costa Rica.

Beach adventure along western Costa Rica coast.

Beach adventure along western Costa Rica coast.

We were back on the single lane highway (one lane each direction), traveling through beautiful scenery, palm tree farms, small villages, lush greenery and cultivated fields.  There were periods of heavy down pour and bright sunshine.  If you weren’t trying to pass a slow 18-wheeler, you were focusing on the curved roads and bicycles, motor bikes, horses, pedestrians.

On the way to Guanacaste, we traveled through Liberia which is a pretty large town with an international airport, a modern church, an authentic colonial atmosphere, a rich history, and a central park.  The other really spectacular thing Liberia had was a Walmart!  I know, I know, not a big deal in the states, but in Costa Rica it is a huge score.

We had planned on driving to San Jose the next day (since we still had the car) to hit the Walmart and Mas y Menos stores.  That is 1.5-2 hour drive one way.  So, by stopping at the Walmart in Liberia it saves us another 3-4 hour drive.

The prices were not discounted, but the variety of products was huge.  We were able to stock up on paper goods and various supplies that we have not found locally in Quepos.  Win, Win, Win!

It took us quite a while to get to Playa Hermosa.  There are several beaches called “Playa Hermosa” in Costa Rica, but the one we visited was the one in Guanacaste.   Playa Hermosa has idyllic beauty and lush surroundings. A two-kilometer long grey sand beach, encircled by tropical forests and ridges of volcanic rock.  We took a lovely walk along the beach which was not very crowded.

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Our lunch stop was at Aqua Sport, where we sat on the beach and enjoyed the cool breeze.

Aqua Sport Lunch Stop. One of our favorite beaches.

Aqua Sport Lunch Stop. One of our favorite beaches.

After the last few stressful weeks, it was a joy to just sit and relax at the beach.  We decided we needed to get a move on, so we headed to Playa del Coco.  It was a very vibrant little town with lots of little shops and eateries.  It was raining a lot so we just did a drive by.

A friend told us to stop by Playa Danta while we were in Guanacaste.  It is a calm bay good for swimming and stand up paddle boarding.  We tried to get there following the local signs, but turned around.  Then we tried again using maps.me and got turned around again.  We were on a deeply rutted dirt path during a rain storm and decided that we should move on to the next beach.

It was sunset by the time we made it to Playa Potrero.  The beach was part of a national park so we did not drive in since it was close to closing.

Playa Potrero Sunset Shot

Playa Potrero Sunset Shot

Our last stop was Playa Grande.  Another super cute touristy surfer town.  We stopped in for a cold brew, then hopped back in the car to make the long journey home.

Beaches Visited:

  • Hermosa
  • Del Coco
  • Danta (missed this one)
  • Potrero
  • Grande
Escapades with the Lembergers

The Lemberger Escapades

A jammed packed 3-day weekend full of frolicking under waterfalls, a zip line tour, beaches, parks, monkeys, and crazy escapades with our good friends John, Missy, and Carl.  They happened to visit over Costa Rica’s Independence weekend celebrations and during one of their biggest, organized labor strikes.

Most of the major cities have road blocks preventing passage to and from the main road.  It caused massive delays and problems for those traveling in the country.  They open the road blocks for 15 minutes every two hours.  Luckily, it only delayed our guests 75 minutes, but it still made it a 4.5 hour bus ride.

For those of you interested in reading about the strike: Costa Rica Shaken by rare and unruly unrest, labor strike, Celebrity Cruise Cancels Arrival due o Labor Strikes, & Local Publication: Tico Times Reports No End in Sight

Fortunately, Quepos decided to move forward with the Independence Day celebrations despite the strike.  Missy, Carl and I walked around town while Matt and John took luggage up to the apartment.

We caught the very electrifying Luz de la Noche (light of the night) parade where kids make all sorts of artwork then decorate them with lights.  If you look closely, you can see a giant ship, a marlin, a house, and many other creative designs.

Quepos Independence Day Night Parade

Quepos Independence Day Night Parade

MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK

We got up early, made a light breakfast and headed to Manuel Antonio National Park. My nature loving friends had a field day with all of the local flora, fauna, and natural habitats.

Manuel Antonio Estates with John, Missy, Carl

Manuel Antonio Estates with John, Missy, Carl

Of course, the monkeys put on a fabulous show for all spectators. Their escapades were enjoyed by all!  If you look closely, the monkey in the lower left corner has a baby on nursing, we think she was only a few weeks old.  Also, check out the faces of John, Missy, and Carl as the monkey family approached them – pretty funny.

Monkey Madness at the Park

Monkey Madness at the Park

We even got to witness a thieving raccoon trying to steal some lunch.  That would be the photos below Matt and Missy showing off their coco logo (they didn’t steal that) 🙂

Coco Loco with Matt and Missy

Coco Loco with Matt and Missy

It was a big exercise day, we climbed 48 floors and walked 17,000 steps which is 7.1 miles.

ZIP LINING ESCAPADES

Carl talked us all into going on a zipline tour.  And not just any tour, but the longest zipline in Central America with El Santuario Canopy Adventure Tours.  Flying over 3.6 kilometers across 10 zip lines that are both above and through the tree canopies.  We ascended 14 tree platforms, climbed up airstairs, scrambled over 6 hanging bridges, and rappelled down a tree.

It was a fabulous adventure!  We were all impressed with all of their amazing safety measures, professional guides, and beauty of the entire experience.

Crazy air-stairs, bridges, and walkways built into the tree canopies.

Zipline Tours with airstairs, bridges, and more

Zipline Tours with airstairs, bridges, and more

After we all got suited up, we joined the other 18 people on our tour.  It sounds like a huge tour, but we only saw the other people at the water stops, otherwise it flowed really nicely.  Look carefully to see John, Missy, and Carl flying through the air.

Getting ready for our zipline tour

Getting ready for our zipline tour

A little craziness ensured.  Carl decided to go upside down on one zip.  Matt and Missy both needed to be hauled in on the longest zip – they focused on enjoying the scenery instead of tuck and roll 😊

Zipline Craziness

Zipline Craziness

The super cool thing about this tour is that we did not have to worry about anything, including stopping.  They have a proprietary mechanism that stops all participants at the platform.  Takes a lot of relief off of you when all you have to do is hold on and enjoy the ride.

LITTLE TOURISTY PICS

We always find time to take a few touristy photos.

John, Missy, and Carl around Quepos

John, Missy, and Carl around Quepos

BAHIA COCAL

We took another long walk to the small fishing village just outside town.  Then, we hopped on the ferry to Bahia Cocal and walked the beach.  It was a great hunting expedition for sea treasures.  Top photo with Lemberger’s in front of ferry dock.

Bahia Cocal and a Long Walk on the Beach

Bahia Cocal and a Long Walk on the Beach

Another full day of exercise with 51 floors climbed, and 12,120 steps walked or 4.8 miles total.

HIKE TO WATERFALL

We were hoping to send John, Missy and Carl on the Monkey Mangrove Tour with Chino, but because of the strike, the roads were closed.  So, plan B was a hike to the Manuel Antonio Estates waterfall.

Our gated community at Manuel Antonio Estates consists of 9 apartments and about 15 homes.  Each are independently owned and used as rental properties.

As you can see from the map below, the apartments are on the opposite side of the waterfall.  We walked up and down many steep streets before arriving at the end of the road.  We made a left at the large dirt pile and an immediate right at the first water run off which leads down to the “cascada” or waterfall.

Manuel Antonio Estates Property Waterfall

Manuel Antonio Estates Property Waterfall

We had the place to ourselves for the first hour and enjoyed frolicking in the refreshing water.

As we were about to leave, 3 people arrived and showed Carl and Missy a hidden ledge under the falls where you can stand and get the perfect photo.

Manuel Antonio Estates Waterfall Hike

Manuel Antonio Estates Waterfall Hike

On property, 83 floors, 11, 989 steps, 4.9 miles

There were these super cool walking palms that we saw on our zip line tour.  Our guide told us that the palm tree is constantly striving for sunlight.  They grow new roots in the direction of where they want to go and then let the back roots die off so they can move.

Walking Palms

Walking Palms

We had such an amazing time with John, Missy and Carl.  Wonderful stories made, lots of laughter shared, good food, and long-lasting memories.  It is desperately hard to put into words how much it meant to have them visit us in Costa Rica, thank you from the bottom of our hearts!

Matt walking along the Reto Mae Hike

Reto MAE Hike

Liming the days away as landlubbers is hard for us.  We miss the water, we miss the motion of the ocean, and we miss our home.  As we try to resolve our lightning strike claim, we wait…and wait.  So, we try to pass the time with hikes like Reto Mae Hike.

One Sunday, Matt and I decided to go on a exploration.  We had a general idea of where we wanted to end up but we weren’t sure how to get there. We walked into town, behind the marina to a beautiful little park.  Don’t you love the free gym / exercise equipment?

Paradero Park

Paradero Park

We knew there was a trail that led to the beaches, but we did not know what it was called.  Later, found ourselves on the Reto MAE Hike.  We did not plan to take this hike, but we stumbled upon it and it seemed to go in the direction of the beach.

History of Reto MAE Hike

A couple of years ago, Manuel Antonio introduced a new extreme race to Costa Rica: The Reto MAE. The acronym ‘MAE’ stands for ‘Manuel Antonio Extreme’, and it quickly rose to become one of the country’s most challenging races.

The Retro MAE Hike is a 10-kilometer trail that winds along the dramatic coastline between Quepos and Manuel Antonio national park, snaking through the rain forest, over bluffs, along cliffs, and visiting seven beaches along the way

The hikers start the Reto Mae hike in Manuel Antonio and end up at the marina.   However, our route was the exact opposite as we started at the marina and ended up somewhere in Manuel Antonio.

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking trail

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking trail

The Trail:

The trail started on a small, single, dirt path and we quickly came upon a fallen tree that we scurried over.  Along the path we found some guides.  These two dogs stayed with us for several miles.

It was a lovely trail, albeit a bit muddy since it had rained a lot the night before.  Everything was green and glistening.    The trail had several overlooks to beaches below, but we could not find the paths down.

We continued on and caught the trail after losing it – we came to a river crossing and debated whether or not the trail crossed the river or went around it.  We went around the river to look for the trail as opposed to getting wet. Later found out that we should have gone through the river.

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking Trail

Reto Mae Extreme Hiking Trail

Ronnie’s Place for a Reward:

We ended up at Ronnie’s Place and ordered a beer and Fresca.  The beverages were expensive, but they had a “captured” market.

Several of the trees were shedding bark. I had never seen anything like it, so beautiful.  See above photo.

We were exhausted.  Even though we wanted to make it to Playa Biesanz we were going to have to do it another day.

Return to Reto MAE a Few Weeks Later:

Fast forward, we decided to try to make it all the way to Playa Biesanz.  We tried to do the Reto Mae hike and take it across the river this time.

These crazy beach goers were blocking our trail.

Cows blocking the Reto Mae tral

Cows blocking the Reto Mae tral

Shoe Surgery On the Run

We were able to go around them and continued up the hill, down a muddy path and POW – my flip flop exploded.  Bummer.  Luckily, we had some line with us so Matt was able to give me a temporary fix and we continued on.

Blown flip flop with repair

Blown flip flop with repair

We were not heading in the right direction, so we hopped off the cow path and headed up hill across the grassy field.  It led to a tall barb wire fence that stopped us cold.  We walked along the fence until we came upon an “opening” that we squeezed through.

Now, we are on a decent dirt trail, continuing up only to encounter a huge security fence with a young lady on the other side.  I decided the friendly route was the way to go.  We weren’t sure who was on the public side.

Trespassers

We discovered we were on private property owned by a rancher which explained the cows.  There was a small opening under the fence, that we belly crawled through.  We are now covered in dirt, mud, and leaves. But we carried on through a pretty resort called Tulemar Resort.

We cooled off for a bit, before hitting Howard trail where we encountered a small waterfall.  Sweet, a quick opportunity to clean up and cool off.

Water falls at Tulemar Resort

Water falls at Tulemar Resort

The Animals

The wildlife came out to greet us – we found an Agouti which is a cross between a rabbit and a squirrel and a few monkeys.

Agouti and Monkeys at Tulemar Resort

Agouti and Monkeys at Tulemar Resort

We hiked up and down hills, through fields, rivers, beaches, over trees and rocks, and under fences.  We finally made it to Manuel Antonio, but the elusive Playa Biesanz is still calling us – so maybe another time.  Our health app logged 5.2 miles and 144 flights!

Reto MAE Hike

Reto MAE Hike

Cold Beer, Pizza, and this Amazing View

We stopped for lunch at La Lambretta, mostly for the view, cold beverage and pizza.  They had a local IPA called Grizzly and Matt said it was the best IPA he has had all year.  I think it is the only one he has had, but either way he was happy.

La Lambretta Pizzeria

La Lambretta Pizzeria

Reto Mae Hike

We will have to come back to explore the beaches further, perhaps with a better map?  Or perhaps we will wonder again just to see if we can get lost.