Getting a Covid Vaccine in Gambier

The vaccination process is unique in every country and I thought I would share our experience in a third world country living in a remote archipelago during a pandemic.  France supplies the pfizer vaccine to French Polynesia (FP) and then FP disseminates it to its population.  In general, FP was very lucky in that the infected rate and death rate were relatively low in comparison to other countries.  Not to say that there was no tragedy here as there were hundreds of lives lost.

The most infected areas were the most populated areas (naturally), including Tahiti and Mo’orea where more than 75% of the Polynesian population live.  As you might recall, Tahiti and Mo’orea are located in the Society Archipelago.  We are located in Gambier which is one of the most remote archipelagos within French Polynesia.  In order of population and popularity: Society, Marquesas, Tuamotus, Gambier, Australs.

Officially, there are no reported covid-19 cases in Gambier.  But then again, there are also no tests here either.  We happen to know several locals that have had the virus.  Most locals self-quarantine when they experience symptoms and they don’t tell anyone.  They don’t want to be the one to bring it here to the archipelago.

The first vaccine made its way to French Polynesia in mid-January 2021. Five pop-up clinics opened up in Tahiti and Mo’orea allowing the population to more easily access the vaccine.  By mid-March, the FP government opened up vaccines to all residents over the age of 18.  And it included tourists with long-stay visas.  However, this was not the case in the outer islands.

The Outer Islands

The “outer islands” consist of any island outside of the Society Archipelago.  The process and availability are severely restricted once you leave Tahiti.

Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas was the first outer island to receive the vaccine.  They immediately put out a decree that the it would only be available to residents.  Fakarava, Hao, and Amanu in the Tuamotus issued a similar notice.   Not that we are surprised as it only makes sense to care for the local population first.  But the hope was that cruisers with long-stay visas would be eligible after the local population was inoculated. Not the case in the Marquesas or Tuamotus.  Cruisers in these two archipelagos are forced to travel hundreds, if not a thousand miles back to Tahiti to get the jab.

In Gambier, the situation was a little different.  There are approximately 1400 residents in the Gambier archipelago.  Most, like 98% live in Mangareva.  Of the 1400 residents, 300 are children and another 300 are young adults living in Tahiti going to school.  That leaves about 800 residents that are eligible.  Of those 800, 100 signed up on the priority list as being high risk (either due to age or health).

The vials arrive by plane on the one flight per week.  The clinic is already closed by the time the plane arrives, unloads, and delivers the package of vials.  The medical professionals then have 3 days to administer the vaccine.

The first vial arrived by plane on Tuesday 23 March.  We had hoped they sent 48 vials which would be enough to inoculate 300 people.  There are about 6 doses per vial.  However,  Gambier only received 8 vials.  8 times 6 is enough to inoculate 48 people.  Really? 

Are We Eligible?

The doctor and 2 nurses were more than willing to inoculate the cruisers (with long-stay visas).  However, they had to first give the vaccine to the 100 residents on the list, then the medical staff, teachers, and police.  This would take 3-4 weeks based on the receipt of 8 vials per week.  Then cruisers would be eligible.  However, we learned on 31 March, that they would first have to circle back and give the 2nd shot to those who were eligible – thus another 3-4 weeks.  Putting us eligible to receive the first shot in late April/early May.  Then we would have to wait 3 weeks for the 2nd shot.  We had not planned on staying in Gambier that long.  But the other alternative is to wait until we get to Tahiti in July to get both shots.  The dilemma….

FP remained closed until mid-May.  They require the vaccine in order to re-enter the country which means I would be required to get the vaccine if I wanted to return to the states in July.  It has been nearly 2 years since I’ve been back and I am anxious to see my family, friends, and physicians.

The Government is talking about requiring the vaccine in order to re-enter the country.  Smart move in my opinion.  However,  it means I would be required to get the vaccine if I wanted to return to the states in July.  I am anxious to see my family, friends, and physicians as it has been nearly 2 years since I’ve been back. 

We Get the Call

Lucky for us we have many modes of communication.  We have internet-based tools such as WhatsApp, email, FB messenger, GoogleFI, and Skype.  Then there are non-internet-based tools such as our IridiumGo (satellite) email and text.  And then there is our VHF radio (reach is 25 miles) and the SSB radio (reach is thousands of miles).  And just for fun, we also have a local SIM card with a local number that “sometimes” allows us to make local calls and texts.    Phew, seems like we should be constantly connected, right?  Ha!

We gave the local clinic our local phone number to call or text (local SIM) when they have a spot available for our shots.  We also gave them my WhatsApp number (internet based) as our local SIM card seems to work randomly and periodically.  They did not seem to want any other form of outreach.

Matt and I went to the clinic the day we had decided to leave the main village anchorage.  We asked when we might be eligible and they said in 2 weeks.  That’s great, we said we will check in the following week and to call us if anything changes.  We were with 4 other cruisers our same age.  All six of us were leaving the anchorage.

The following night we get hailed on the SSB Poly Mag net.  Apparently, the clinic had contacted Titoan, a local, who emailed a boat Pakea Tea (one of the 6 cruisers) and told them that all of us have an appointment in 4 days!  Pakea Tea was asked to contact all of us to let us know!  Evidently, the clinic could not reach anyone on phone, text, or WhatsApp.  Why?  Because the tower is down.  Of course, it is!  But we got the message and will be there with bells on!

First Jab

The clinic scheduled 10 of us at the same time on the same day.  Lucky for us we showed up 30 minutes early and were first in line.  You can tell we are all comfortable with each other (lack of masks).  When you enter the clinic, you wear a mask.

 

Waiting for our vaccine

Waiting for our vaccine

The process for the first shot:

  • Meet with health administers. They verify your identity, take your weight, blood pressure, temperature, heart rate. Wait outside.
  • Meet with the doctor. He verifies allergies, medications, and overall health.  Listens to your heart. Wait outside.
  • Nurse completes your medical card, cleans area, and jabs you. Wait outside.
Clinic in Mangareva, Gambier

Clinic in Mangareva, Gambier

The regular clinic is under repair so all of the clinical professionals are operating out of a make-shift clinic/building which does not have as much interior space so there is a lot happening outside.

We receive our shots in the back on a folding chair by one of the two nurses.  Yes, he is in flip flops and NOT wearing a mask.  But he was lovely and gentle.

We did not have any side effects besides a sore arm for a few days.  Not sore enough where we could not move it, but sore enough to let us know we had the shot.

2ND JAB

We had hoped the 2nd jab would be exactly 3 weeks later, which would be 3 May.  However, the shots will return to a once a week delivery (on the 1 plane per week) which arrives on Tuesdays.  So, are next appointment being 5 May which happens to be Matt’s birthday.  We had hoped to celebrate his birthday for the 3rd year in a row on Taravai, but we will have to adjust it this year.

We had planned out our birthday celebrations and goodbye’s around our shot.  Our plan was to be in Taravai, then head to Rikitea to get the shot, then back to Taravai before we left Gambier.  However, that all changed on 3 May.  A fellow cruiser, who got their shot when we did, received a call from the clinic telling him that we all needed to come in on the 4th of May instead of the 5th of May.  Well, it’s a good thing we were anchored near them to get the message.

We quickly changed all of our plans and headed back over to the main village.  We ran into the nurse as Matt and I pulled up to the dinghy dock.  He was picking up the vaccines that just came in on the plane.  So, we helped him load them up, hopped in his car and got a ride to the clinic. 

Yep, I was feeling pretty good as I carried in the vaccines while the other cruisers were waiting.

The 2nd shot was not as “organized” as the first, but we were in and out within an hour.  They asked us a series of questions, sanitized our arm, jabbed us and off we went.  Easy peazy.

They signed our health passport too.

Our arms did not hurt nearly as bad as the first time.  But I had a really sore back.  A few advil and all was good in the morning.

Events from this blog post occurred during April-May 2021.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Carving School Creation

Back to School: Carving 101

We went back to school to learn how to carve oyster shells.  I’ve always known this was craft required true talent, patience, and creativity.  None of which I possess.  I knew this would not be easy, but I was wiling to give it the old college try.  My friends Carolyn (on “Askari”) and Sandra (on “Pico”) joined me for this adventure at the carving school.

We each picked our desired creation and Hefara, the teacher, hand drew each design onto the inside of the oyster shells.  Armed with our shells we headed over to the work stations. 

Tricks of the Trade – the tools.  Truth be told we used a lot more tools than what is shown below, but these are the main tools used at the carving school.

Carving Tools

Carving Tools

Practice Makes Perfect

Hefara shows us how to practice using the Dremel.  He drew several straight lines on a shell for each of us and tells us to carve a straight line next to the green ink line.  Easier said than done.  Learning how hard or soft to press on the shell; how to stay just above the green line; and how to do short downward strokes.  I had issues maintaining the same amount of pressure with each swipe.  It seemed to have rippled which is not ideal.

Practicing a straight line

Practicing a straight line

Let the Carving Begin

1ST tool rather small dremel tool to begin the carving outside the green line.  At this point we did not know if we were carving the design on the shell or if we were doing a cut out of the design (there is a language barrier). Don’t move your hand, but your wrist.  Only use short, downward strokes pressing evenly each time.

We also did not know how deep to go so we were all really apprehensive and rather gentle when carving which took us a lot longer to carve our pieces out

2nd tool was much bigger and had a super sharp point – it looked like a cone. We held this at an angle to make the carved area much bigger.  If you did not hold it correctly you ended up with lines in the shell.  Had we known we were cutting it away we would have been more aggressive with this tool

3rd tool cutting – Hefara used a cutting tool to cut out our designs– then you bang it on something to make the piece pop out

4th tool larger cone tool was used to remove the excess around the edges. Hard because of the uneven surface makes the tool slip which can ruin your piece

5th tool is a cleaning tool with sand paper. This is used to clean up the piece and get the shell to the pretty colors.  You push rather hard to remove the top layer of the inside of the oyster shell

6-9 tools: Hefara uses three different tools to carve Polynesian symbols on my manta ray

Students to the Rescue

After about 2.5 hours, Hefara asked a few of the students at the carving school to help us out.  It was the last few hours of the last day before a 2-week holiday break – they wanted to leave and we were too slow.  But we appreciated the help on the intricate details from the professionals.

We were each absolutely thrilled with our finished designs.  I wish I could say this was all me, but in reality, it was about 70% me and 30% Hefara. With the best parts and most intricate designs coming from Hefara.

Click here to read the blog post on the carving school with more images of their stunning works of art.

The local school is Le College Saint Raphael de Rikitea.

Events from this blog post occurred on 1 April.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Paradise on Puaumu

Puaumu is truly a small piece of paradise.  This little motu is located on the north end of the Gambier archipelago.  It is a private island owned by two families.  One is a friend of ours, Stephan and Manu.  Nobody lives here permanently, but the owners and their families do camp out for long weekends and holidays.

Puaumu Paradise

Puaumu Paradise

For some reason, cruisers don’t tend to come this far north so we often find ourselves alone in this beautiful, serene anchorage. Matt and I are able to cozy up to shore in between the large bommies.  Monohulls have to stay out in the deeper water as they have a long draft whereas we have a shallow draft at just over 1 meter.

Exploring the Motus

Matt and walk around the entire island which is a whopping 1nm.  It is not the distance but the terrain that make this fun.  The leeward side of the island is nice beach or small coral making it super easy to walk on during low tide.  However, the windward side of the island is covered in dead coral, large rocks, and debris making it a bit of a challenge to traverse.

We try to walk the island during each of the different tides.  When it is low tide you can walk along the water’s edge and find lots of sea treasures that wash ashore.  During medium tide you are a little higher on the coral shelf and high tide forces you up on the top of the coral shelf.  Always something new to be seen and found.

There are about a half dozen smaller motus south of Puaumu and two fairly large motus to the NW of the island.  As you might recall, Gambier is one large archipelago which has motus and small islands all around its outer edge that separate the inside lagoon from the Pacific Ocean. 

The red arrow is Sugar Shack located at Puaumu.  The two larger motus are on the top of the screen and the smaller motus are the light-yellow marks below Puaumu.  They are so small that they don’t have names.  It means that in a few decades they will be gone as they are slowly sinking into the sea.

Exploring by SUP

We are able to paddle board to a few of the smaller motus on calm days.  But the two larger ones to the NW of us require a little dinghy ride as they are about 1.5nm away.

These two motus are called Tepapuri and Teauaone.  Say those three times fast.

Motu Tepapuri

Matt and I walk around the entire motu which was about 3.5 miles over several different types of terrain ranging from sand, to small pebbles and shells, to rocks and large dead coral.

Coming around the corner of the motu sat this lone tree awaiting the rise of high tide.

A Few Good Finds

Matt found a long rope and decided to bring it back with us to make a tree swing.  It was super heavy.

I found the best treasure of all!  It is a glass pearl float.  Back in the old age (not sure how long ago, but it was a very long time ago), fisherman used glass floats.  Now they are hard plastic which is far more durable.  I am trying to talk Matt into letting me keep it so I can add it to my garden when we find ourselves on land.  Check out our next blog with more on this glass float.

Looking glass

Looking glass

We decided to take Sweetie to the edge of the reef, after we circumnavigated the motu. As we got closer, Matt had to walk the dinghy in as it was too shallow to use our outboard.  We secured Sweetie and then walked to the breaking waves where they were so clear you could see the reflection of the reef below in the curl of the wave.

We were rewarded with a beautiful rainbow after a rain shower.

Puaumu’s beauty has no limits.  I love that the water inside the lagoon is so vastly different from the water outside.

Events from this blog post occurred during March 2021.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.