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Bay of Islands, Vanua Balavu

Lao Group Island Tour: Part II

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In our last blog post, we take you and our friend Wayne on a tour of the Lao group.  The Lao group are the outer islands of Fiji that are pristine in nature, basic in lifestyle, and full of loving, generous, small tribes.

We started the tour in Savusavu, then headed to Taveuni, and then off to Ogea.  From here we started to head North to Yagasa, then Lakeba.

In an ideal situation, we would make our way to the Northern Lao Group, then slowly make our way south, then head west toward the mainland Viti Levu.  However, the tradewinds run southeast so we end up making a figure 8 and putting a lot of miles under the boat!

Continuing on with Lao Island Tour Part II

Matt caught a Mahi but he didn’t make it into our freezer.  Matt grabbed the line to take a photo and the clever fish wiggled off the hook, bounced down the sugar scoops and into the water.  It was his lucky day!

After we left Lakeba, we head to our favorite place (so far) in Vanua Balavu called Bay of Islands.  Before we head to the anchorage, we stop at Dalconi to do our sevusevu with the village chief Josese.  We also meet Tuta, the headman who we scheduled a cave snorkel tour for the next day.

After our sevusevu ceremony, we asked some kids to walk us around the village.  They were so delightful!  Can you see Sugar Shack in the top photo?

Dalconi Village

Dalconi Village

Bay of Islands

The next morning, we head straight over to the Bay of Islands.  We find the same spot from the last time we were here and we enjoy this beautiful place all to ourselves.  This is certainly my favorite place in the Lao group.

Tuta picks us up in a long boat for our tour of several caves that we can snorkel through.

There are 4 caves, but I only went inside .  Two. The first one, which happened to be the furthest away from the anchorage is called the “meeting room.”  Evidently, elders used to meet here during low tide.  You don’t need a mask to get inside, but you do need to swim in.

On the outside, it is a little upside-down thermometer (at least that is what it looks like to me).  We jump in the water, and head inside and are instantly in awe of the beautiful interior of the cave.  With its peek-a-boo holes throughout the cave walls allowing light and small bats to come and go as they please.

Matt has a flash light and illuminates the ceiling which casts an eerie glow.

I really enjoyed this cave and its many caverns and light holes.  So much beauty hidden in darkness.

The 2nd cave is a no-go for me.  The boys take on the adventure and I stay outside admiring the beautiful coral and large clams.

The boys had to swim below the surface about 2 meters and then swim 3 meters inside the cave.  Be careful to pop up away from the hanging stalactites.  It was a deep cave that went further back than the first cave, but wasn’t as tall or impressive.  There were no openings to let in the light.  The opening is a tiny peep hole just barely visible at the water line.

2nd Cave Snorkel

2nd Cave Snorkel

The 3rd cave we had visited on our own so we told him we did not need to go again.  The 4th cave was completely under water and we were told to come back at true low tide (as it was, we were 2 hours before low tide). 

Here is a photo of all 3 entrances:

Added Tour Bonus Stops

After our tour, Tuta took us to the Flying Fox tree (bats).  Boy were they unhappy about us being there!  Such funny looking animals with their see-through winds and spiny bodies.

Next we went to a private island owned by the owner of Oakley sunglasses.  The caretaker welcomed us and offered tasty coconuts to cool us off.

Vanua Balavu always has beautiful sunsets.

A New Island: Kadavu

We had another 200nm overnight passage from Vanua Balavu to Kadavu).  We sail past one of Mel Gibson’s islands here in Fiji (it is private so we can’t stop).

Kadavu is no longer part of the Lao group, but it is reported to be stunning.  On the passage, Wayne brought in a beautiful bull Mahi Mahi.

Vanua Balavu to Kadavu

Trip Details

  • Total Miles: 206
  • Moving Time: 27 hours
  • Max Speed: 12.6
  • Average Speed: 7.6

Our first anchorage in Kadavu is called North Bay.  The winds are howling so we tuck into a quiet little spot all to ourselves.   The mangroves line the bottom of the mountainside as the tall trees jet up behind them.  Super pretty contrast in greens.

Since we arrived on a Sunday, we decided to stay on the boat and do our sevusevu the following day.  A friend of ours told us that there is no “chief” per se, but that we did not stop in to the police station and show them our paperwork.

So, early the next day, we loaded up into Sweetie and headed to town.  We were greeted by a group of fishermen who were free diving for sea cucumbers to sell to China.  They were so friendly and nice, they welcomed us to the village of Vunisea and told us to enjoy ourselves.

Up and over two small hills, we finally arrived to the village that was surprisingly big.  They had 5 small markets, 1 hardware store, and a fresh veggie market. This side of the village had beautiful white sandy beaches, where we have mangroves and tree lined hills.  We found the airport (top right, and the “terminal” middle right, along with street signs!

We take a dinghy ride around the lagoon and enjoy the beauty of the island.  Lots of cascading green trees that drape down to the next tree creating a waterfall effect.

Sugar Shack sitting alone in her bay.

Next we head to Musket Cove and the metropolis of Denaru on Viti Levu Fiji’s main island.

Events from this blog occurred in the first two weeks of July.  Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual events.   In our last blog, we take Wayne on a Lao Group Island Tour.

Lovo Birthday Celebration: Fulanga

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Our host family invited us to Sunday service at their church and then lunch at their house afterwards.  However, it turned out to be a huge lovo celebration!  

We left Sugar Shack at 0900 as it takes 15-20 minutes to dinghy to the closest landing near the village.  It is often a wet and bumpy ride.  Once we get to shore, we wade across the water to land where we drench ourselves in mosquito repellent.  Now we are ready for the 20-minute walk into town thru the lush surroundings and over a small dirt path.  We arrive with 5 minutes to spare where we drop off fresh baked banana muffins and homemade chocolate chip cookies for our hosts.

We are ushered to the church where all the cruisers seem to congregate in the back.  The village has about 90-100 people and there are at least 50-60 cruisers.  Even with all of these people, there is plenty of room in the airy and spacious church.

Fulanga Church

Fulanga Church

Above is Matt and I with our host family, Lucy and Nico along with photos of the church and some local children.  The entire service was in Fijian so we did not understand a single word.  However, one of the elders did speak to us in English as he welcomed us all to the village and to their church service.  He said they were honored we should share this time with them.

The singing was lovely and harmonious.  The only thing was a man was playing the triangle and I swear it pierced my brain.  Lucky for me, he fell asleep during the service and was not playing the entire time.

Lovo Birthday Celebration

After service, we were told that the entire village was preparing to celebrate one of the elder’s 70th birthday with a lovo celebration.  We would not be having lunch with our host family, but rather with the entire village. Most excellent.

The men prepared the lovo earlier that morning including 3 pigs, casava, taro root, and veggies.  The lovo has been cooking for nearly 4 hours.  They slowly uncover all the food bundles.

In the community hall, the women of the village, have laid out fabric in a large U shape.  On both sides of the fabric are plates.  Over the next hour the women prepare the food, unwrap the lovo items, cook the fish and finish setting the area for everyone.

Everyone forms groups and chats while we wait for the feast.  The kids are chatter and giggle while hosts share village life with their cruising families.

The Birthday Boy: 70 year old Elder

At the head of the hall is the place of honor for the birthday boy.  In Fiji, they only celebrate 3 birthdays.  Your first birthday, your 21st and your 70th.  You become an elder at the age of 65 (no matter your station).

Palm fronds are placed in the center of each fabric piece and then the food is placed on top of the fronds.  They served hundreds of fish, hundreds of pounds of casava and taro root, a spinach type dish and the 3 pigs.  I am liking this lovo a lot!

Somehow, Matt and I (and our friends Fred and Chris on Sea Jay) end up the main table in front of the birthday elder!  Lucky us!  We get first hand experience with the birthday boy and a few elders during the meal.

It is a bit awkward to get used to eating on the floor (while not showing your knees), and not using utensils (its all using your hands).  But we manage to fully enjoy the very tasty and delectable food.  There was tons and tons of food!  Lots left over which we hope is spread out and shared with the village families.  Sweet lovo celebration.

We discover the Cave of Bones in our last blog.  Events from this blog occurred in early July.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual events.

Bavatu Anchorage

Bavatu Bay in Northern Lao

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We really did not want to leave the unique and mystifying Bay of Islands, but some of our friends had arranged for a Lovo (Fijian underground BBQ) and we did not want to miss it.  So, we head over to the NorthEast side of Vanua Balavu to a new anchorage called Bavatu.

We discovered that there is a beautiful look out over this bay, Bavatu and the Bay of Islands.  So, we make our way to the end of the anchorage. We tie the dinghy up to a dock and find the hand-made 271 step stair case.  Not all the steps are even, or the same distance from the next, or nailed all the way in.  But, there is a railing, and they get you to where you need to go!  The record for fastest run up the stairs is 53 seconds!

Once you reach the top, you walk through a field until you get to the care takers village which consisted of 8 small houses and a community center.  After you walk through the village, you cross over another huge field (for the cows), until you get to a small dirt path.  You follow this path until it goes up hill, then you turn at the “grave site” (yes, there is a grave here) and then the view takes your breath away!

The top photos show the village and one of the wooded paths, the center and bottom right are the beautiful views and the bottom left is the grave site.

Across the field are the houses of the two plantation owners.  Tony lives in the big white house where his family has lived for generations and hundreds of years!  I took photos of both houses from the top and from the anchorage.

We came across a lot of their animals.  They had a heard of cows, sheep and horses.  Lots of beautiful birds and butterflies fluttered about too.

LOVO – FIJIAN BBQ

The locals caught, cleaned and prepared the sheep early in the morning.  They put the sheep and sides underground to cook for several hours before serving.  The food is placed in baskets made of palm fronds, then placed on hot stones.  They are covered with more palm fronds, then plastic, more palm fronds, then dirt.

Each boat brought a side or desert and the feast commenced!

Everyone is supposed to jump off the little deck but I did not have my bathing suit on.  So, Matt jumped for the both of us.

It was lovely to spend the afternoon with other cruisers and the locals of Bavatu.  Tasty Fijian food, local music and lots of laughter.

We so loved our time at Bay of Islands in Vanua Balavu in our last blog.  This blog occurred in late June 2022.  Our blogs run 10-12 weeks behind actual events.  Thanx for reading!