Tag Archives: living the dream

Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Green Island, Panama

We had a lazy start, might be because rum was involved or because we were lulled to sleep by two pretty large thunderstorms. After we stowed the secondary anchor and cleaned up the boat, we headed to Green Island also known as Kanlildup.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

The wind did not cooperate, as we headed toward Green Island and continued to be on our nose. With our fuel tanks less than ¼ tank full, we are doing our best to conserve our diesel. But, having the wind on our nose and lots of shoals on either side of us makes it challenging to tack safely under sail. So, we motor on…

As a side note, Matt and I had wanted to fill our fuel tanks in Santa Marta, but Columbia only sold 5% bio-diesel. We could have put an additive in to make the bio-diesel burn better, but we did not want to mix fuels. So we left leave Santa Marta with our tanks less than half full.

Along the way, we pass many islands that look very inviting….after all there are 382 islands in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

Sailing (or in our case motoring) from Columbia, heading west, the islands start to become more populated with other cruisers. The Eastern San Blas islands were very desolate, remote, and not considered tourist destinations. However, as we head up the chain, we start spotting other boats and cruisers. In fact, we passed our first sail boat on the way to Green Island.

Green island’s popularity has grown over the years because it offers cruisers a nice protected bay with great snorkeling, and it is close to Rio Diablo. It’s covered with palm trees, large and small, creating a dense space of greenery.

Approaching Green Island

Approaching Green Island

Entering the anchorage, we quickly found several boats anchored around other small islands. Luckily, none are near Green Island so we have it to ourselves, for today. Not long after we anchored, a small dugout approached us with a woman, man, and small child. So, the “boat boys” begin.

To our surprise, this was the famous master mola maker and infamous transvestite, Lisa from Rio Sidra. We had read about her in our cruising guide and several cruisers had posted about her handy work. She took out each of her molas, one by one, explaining the design and intricacies of her work. She travels 4 hours from her main island to come sell her goods to tourists. As tourists don’t visit her island.  She shares the profits with her village and other mola makers.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

A traditional mola is several layers of fabric, between 3 to 7 and very intricate. A “fake” or non-traditional mola uses applique. I purchased a mermaid 5 layer mola and quickly turned it into a pillow

My new mola turned into a pillow.

My new mola turned into a pillow.

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Comedy of Errors and Total Disaster

Comedy of Errors.  Even the best made plans can turn into a comedy of errors. Our good friend, Wayne was coming to visit us (he is not the error). So we scheduled an English-speaking taxi driver to pick him up (with a sign and everything). He flew on American Airlines from Dallas to Bogota and then Avianca Airlines from Bogota to Santa Marta.

After Wayne landed in Bogota he alerted us that his next flight would be late (10p vs 830p). When we notified the taxi driver she offered to pick us up and bring us to the airport at no extra charge – a great surprise! We loaded a small cooler with beer and met the taxi driver at 915p giving us plenty of time to get to the airport.

We arrived early, confirmed at the counter that his flight had left, and went upstairs to the café to watch the screens for his flight’s arrival. The eateries closed, another flight arrived, but it wasn’t Wayne’s flight. It’s getting later and later. We decided to head to the arrival area, despite the fact that the screen still showed his plane in route. We asked the airport personnel and they said his flight had come in before the flight unloading now. Yikes we missed him! Our error as we should have just waited at arrivals outside.  We rushed back to the marina. Luckily, Wayne was able to get another English-speaking driver to take him to the marina and accepted U.S. dollars (both unusually rare). He had been waiting about 5-10 minutes by the time we arrived with beer in hand. Welcome to Colombia!

The next day, Matt got up early to get a much-needed haircut and swung by the bakery for morning treat.

We decided to show Wayne around town while finishing up last minute provisioning. First stop was the Mercado Publico to show off the fresh fish, meat, veggie, and fruit markets.

We picked up lots of fresh fruits and veggies, then stopped by the gas station to pick up two-stroke for the dinghy. Next, we picked up rolls at the bakery on the way to Exito, the large supermarket. We each had several bags full of items with no receipts (considering we bought them from street vendors).

DISASTER

As you enter Exito, the security guard searches your bags and tries to staple them closed, which works on plastic bags but not our cloth bags. So, I had this brilliant idea, to use Google Translate on my phone to look up “can we leave our bags at the security desk?” I asked, he said “no” so the boys jockeyed through the crowd to find an empty place out of the way. I set my bags, phone, and wallet down with the boys to go get a cart. Somewhere, somehow, my wallet and phone walked off – gone! Poof! Disaster!

The boys went searching, back tracking our steps, checking garbage cans looking everywhere while I sobbed and tried to explain, in Spanish what happened. We checked the security cameras, nothing. I was a mess, heartbroken, and so disappointed. My wallet had my driver’s license, $300, my atm card, credit card, and photo copies of all 3 of our passports. Matt and Wayne took me begrudgingly back to the boat where we cancelled the two cards and filed for a new driver’s license. We could not use “find my phone” as the phone was in airplane mode. I can only hope that it was a petty thief who saw an opportunity to give their family a better Christmas. Using the money, selling the phone (which was locked) and not stealing my digital footprint or identity. One can pray.

I was in a funk despite the boys’ effort to cheer me up. We went to happy hour where I sulked and then went to El Bistro one of our favorite places to eat. Matt even bought me a new wallet and two cute bracelets’ (all of $8) and my head still hung low.

We did manage to dig up an old iPhone5 which we tried to replicate as much as possible. The problem being we were leaving a wifi zone for a non wifi zone and anything I needed to update had to happen that night – we did our best.

Time heals all wounds and this one particularly stung!

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Sunset Marina Santa Marta

Mercado Público: “The” Fresh Fruit, Veggie, Meat, & Fish Market

Colombians are very entrepreneurial people selling fruits, vegetables, hats, tchotchkes, clothing, services, cardboard and just about anything.  There are pop up stands, rolling carts, booths, small stores, and large stores selling your heart’s desire.  Do you need a Mercado Público?

Fruits & veggies can be bought on the street by various vendors selling them off push carts or bikes with carts.  This allows them to  easily move their goods around to high traffic areas.

The largest food market we have encountered is called Mercado Público.  The market fills a two story building that takes up the entire block.  And in fact, it is so large that it spills out onto the neighboring streets.  Matt, Mia (from “Itchy Foot”), and I visited this market one morning which was absolutely overwhelming to all of our senses.

We visited the outside fish market first.  There are lot of fisherman selling a variety of fish that have been cut and cleaned for you.  You could get a great fish, if you knew what you were looking at and could put up with the assault on your nose.

Entering the two story building on the first floor you see that it is divided into two sections for fish and meat. We decided to continue to torture our noses by finishing up the fish area.

As we completed the fish section, we crossed over to the meat section which has all meats except chicken.  Where the fish attacked our sense of smell, the meat besieged our vision!  I get it, I eat meat and meat comes from animals.  I am not a vegetarian, but I do not eat red meat (for health reasons).  But, seeing the meat market almost made me change my ways.

We did not make the entire round as you’ve seen one pig’s head and foot you’ve seen them all.  We moved upstairs to the fruit and veggie market which was far more pleasant to see and smell.  In fact, some of it was mouth watering to be around!

In addition to food, you can also buy some pets.  We found a few vendors selling birds in the main building and then stumbled across the pet store street.  In this area, they group like vendors together to make it easier for shoppers.

STREET SECTIONS:

  • pet street
  • hardware street
  • fabric street
  • auto street