Tag Archives: living the dream

Sea Treasures

Holandes Cays, Panama

We enjoyed a lazy morning, reading, blogging, and breakfast. We thought we would try to circle back to Ogopsibudup where we caught a glimpse of internet before going to our next anchorage. However, wifi alluded us, so we moved onward and stayed within the Holandes Cays.

We motored 9 miles to the Holandes Cays, which is a set of 21 mostly uninhabited islands broken into 3 groups: Western, Eastern, and Central Holandes Cays. These are a favorite stop for cruisers as it lies behind a 7-mile protected barrier reef. The Guna refer to these islands as the “Kaimou” and the Columbian traders refer to the Holandes Cays as “Mauqui.”

Our destination is the most popular anchorage in San Blas, the swimming pool anchorage which is located between Banedup and BBQ island in the Eastern Holandes Cays.

Four other boats were already at this anchorage when we arrived, but the bay is large enough for everyone. The spot we picked gave us an unobstructed view of the reef from the bow and an island view from the stern. We jumped in the pretty water, checked the anchor, and snorkeled over to the reef.

The sea floor was covered in huge sand dollars, both live and dead. We picked a few as souvenirs and moved on toward the reef where we were greeted by a majestic spotted eagle ray that had a 6’ wing span. He was so beautiful gliding through the water! There were several coral heads, a few fish, and even some new coral head growing among the grass. On the way back, I found a beautiful sea biscuit and Matt pointed out a really thick stingray with a stubbed tail. He had some girth! We hovered and watched him glide by not even giving us a second glance.

Sea Treasures

Sea Treasures

As we were drying off on the sugar scoops, another dugout arrived selling more molas. This master mola marker’s name was “Venancio” and his molas were extremely elaborate and intricate, but since I had bought one yesterday, I just admired.

BBQ island got its name from the many barbeques cruisers have on the island. We thought we’d check it out, so we hopped in Sweetie, pulled her up on the beach, and started walking toward the make-shift bonfire. A local and his son approached us and informed us that there is a $3 per person charge for tourists. Hmmm. We did not bring any money, considering we came over in our swimsuits, so turned around and left. I can appreciate his entrepreneurial spirit, but $3 per person seems a bit unreasonable to walk around a very tiny island. They had a few hammocks, a hut (which is where they live, we assume), and a few make shift tables.

BBQ Island

BBQ Island

We checked out another nearby island to see if it could work as an impromptu substitute for bbq island.  Sweetie was left ashore and we started walking around, but before we got too far, we were immediately attacked by no-seeums. Poor Matt, his body is littered with bug bites, guess he is much sweeter than Wayne and I.

Back to the boat for pork chops and baked potatoes.

Lots of Islands Visited:

  • Holandes Cay
  • BBQ Island
  • Banedup
Master Mola Maker, Lisa

Green Island, Panama

We had a lazy start, might be because rum was involved or because we were lulled to sleep by two pretty large thunderstorms. After we stowed the secondary anchor and cleaned up the boat, we headed to Green Island also known as Kanlildup.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

Bauhaus guide photo of Green Island in the background.

The wind did not cooperate, as we headed toward Green Island and continued to be on our nose. With our fuel tanks less than ¼ tank full, we are doing our best to conserve our diesel. But, having the wind on our nose and lots of shoals on either side of us makes it challenging to tack safely under sail. So, we motor on…

As a side note, Matt and I had wanted to fill our fuel tanks in Santa Marta, but Columbia only sold 5% bio-diesel. We could have put an additive in to make the bio-diesel burn better, but we did not want to mix fuels. So we left leave Santa Marta with our tanks less than half full.

Along the way, we pass many islands that look very inviting….after all there are 382 islands in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

No name island, one of the 382 in the San Blas chain.

Sailing (or in our case motoring) from Columbia, heading west, the islands start to become more populated with other cruisers. The Eastern San Blas islands were very desolate, remote, and not considered tourist destinations. However, as we head up the chain, we start spotting other boats and cruisers. In fact, we passed our first sail boat on the way to Green Island.

Green island’s popularity has grown over the years because it offers cruisers a nice protected bay with great snorkeling, and it is close to Rio Diablo. It’s covered with palm trees, large and small, creating a dense space of greenery.

Approaching Green Island

Approaching Green Island

Entering the anchorage, we quickly found several boats anchored around other small islands. Luckily, none are near Green Island so we have it to ourselves, for today. Not long after we anchored, a small dugout approached us with a woman, man, and small child. So, the “boat boys” begin.

To our surprise, this was the famous master mola maker and infamous transvestite, Lisa from Rio Sidra. We had read about her in our cruising guide and several cruisers had posted about her handy work. She took out each of her molas, one by one, explaining the design and intricacies of her work. She travels 4 hours from her main island to come sell her goods to tourists. As tourists don’t visit her island.  She shares the profits with her village and other mola makers.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

Lisa showing off one of her favorite molas.

A traditional mola is several layers of fabric, between 3 to 7 and very intricate. A “fake” or non-traditional mola uses applique. I purchased a mermaid 5 layer mola and quickly turned it into a pillow

My new mola turned into a pillow.

My new mola turned into a pillow.

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Comedy of Errors and Total Disaster

Comedy of Errors.  Even the best made plans can turn into a comedy of errors. Our good friend, Wayne was coming to visit us (he is not the error). So we scheduled an English-speaking taxi driver to pick him up (with a sign and everything). He flew on American Airlines from Dallas to Bogota and then Avianca Airlines from Bogota to Santa Marta.

After Wayne landed in Bogota he alerted us that his next flight would be late (10p vs 830p). When we notified the taxi driver she offered to pick us up and bring us to the airport at no extra charge – a great surprise! We loaded a small cooler with beer and met the taxi driver at 915p giving us plenty of time to get to the airport.

We arrived early, confirmed at the counter that his flight had left, and went upstairs to the café to watch the screens for his flight’s arrival. The eateries closed, another flight arrived, but it wasn’t Wayne’s flight. It’s getting later and later. We decided to head to the arrival area, despite the fact that the screen still showed his plane in route. We asked the airport personnel and they said his flight had come in before the flight unloading now. Yikes we missed him! Our error as we should have just waited at arrivals outside.  We rushed back to the marina. Luckily, Wayne was able to get another English-speaking driver to take him to the marina and accepted U.S. dollars (both unusually rare). He had been waiting about 5-10 minutes by the time we arrived with beer in hand. Welcome to Colombia!

The next day, Matt got up early to get a much-needed haircut and swung by the bakery for morning treat.

We decided to show Wayne around town while finishing up last minute provisioning. First stop was the Mercado Publico to show off the fresh fish, meat, veggie, and fruit markets.

We picked up lots of fresh fruits and veggies, then stopped by the gas station to pick up two-stroke for the dinghy. Next, we picked up rolls at the bakery on the way to Exito, the large supermarket. We each had several bags full of items with no receipts (considering we bought them from street vendors).

DISASTER

As you enter Exito, the security guard searches your bags and tries to staple them closed, which works on plastic bags but not our cloth bags. So, I had this brilliant idea, to use Google Translate on my phone to look up “can we leave our bags at the security desk?” I asked, he said “no” so the boys jockeyed through the crowd to find an empty place out of the way. I set my bags, phone, and wallet down with the boys to go get a cart. Somewhere, somehow, my wallet and phone walked off – gone! Poof! Disaster!

The boys went searching, back tracking our steps, checking garbage cans looking everywhere while I sobbed and tried to explain, in Spanish what happened. We checked the security cameras, nothing. I was a mess, heartbroken, and so disappointed. My wallet had my driver’s license, $300, my atm card, credit card, and photo copies of all 3 of our passports. Matt and Wayne took me begrudgingly back to the boat where we cancelled the two cards and filed for a new driver’s license. We could not use “find my phone” as the phone was in airplane mode. I can only hope that it was a petty thief who saw an opportunity to give their family a better Christmas. Using the money, selling the phone (which was locked) and not stealing my digital footprint or identity. One can pray.

I was in a funk despite the boys’ effort to cheer me up. We went to happy hour where I sulked and then went to El Bistro one of our favorite places to eat. Matt even bought me a new wallet and two cute bracelets’ (all of $8) and my head still hung low.

We did manage to dig up an old iPhone5 which we tried to replicate as much as possible. The problem being we were leaving a wifi zone for a non wifi zone and anything I needed to update had to happen that night – we did our best.

Time heals all wounds and this one particularly stung!

Sunset Marina Santa Mart

Sunset Marina Santa Marta