Being on the “hard” at the Norsand Boatyard offers us the opportunity to do a lot of maintenance in addition to the upgrades and repairs. We have a long list of “to do” items that are perfect to tackle while laid up.
Here is a list of the items we worked on that are mentioned in this blog post:
- Paint Cross Beam and Martingale
- Saildrives and Prop Repair Maintenance
- Rudder Arm
- Varnishing
- See Part II for additional maintenance
Paint Crossbeam and Martingale
The crossbeam is at the front of the boat between the port and starboard hull. It is an integral part of our boat structure and rigging.
We painted the crossbeam and martingale twelve years ago and the paint was showing its age.
It is a huge process to remove the cross beam. We removed the lifelines, dropped the anchor chain, removed the anchor roller and nav lights, secured the mast, removed the forestay and furler, and removed the front part of the trampoline.
Removing the Crossbeam
We had problems removing the the crossbeam.
Each side of the beam has one bolt that holds the end of the beam to a bracket that is then bolted to the boat.
We thought it would be easier to remove the single bolt on each side rather than removing the bracket which has 4 bolts. However, we were wrong. The two bolts were stuck and had to be cut out.
New plan. Replace the bolts, drill the holes to make them circular again, and fabricate brass bushings to remove the play.
The crossbeam had its corrosion areas ground out, filled, sanded, primed, sanded, primed, sanded top coat.
We brought in Rob from RH Precision and his “Adjustable Hand Reamers” to drill out the holes, and to fabricate new bushings. See bottom left photo (gold colored bushings).
This will make the cross beam much sturdier and easier to remove in the future.
Installation
A one week job took 2.5 weeks. It was finally time to get the crossbeam and brackets on the boat.
First we install the bolt bushings on both sides.
Next we install the 1 main bolts that holds the crossbeam to the bracket.
We then return to the boat to install the other bracket onto the boat. Of course, tough gel and lots of sika flex were used on everything.
Aaron, the yard manager drove the fork lift expertly allowing for a smooth installation. No scratches, bumps or bruises on us or the crossbeam.
The result is beautiful
Saildrives & Props
We hired Whangarei Marine Services to do some general maintenance on our saildrives. They replaced the seals (near the props), changed the gear oil, and cleaned our props.
We also hired RH Precision to do some work on our props.
Sugar Shack has 2 props and one spare hub. One of the hub’s inner splines were really worn down causing some issues. So, we decided to clean our spare hub and use it instead.
The problem with the spare hub was that it had some dezincification (it is pinkish) which means it won’t last but 3-4 years.
That works for us as we plan to repower and replace both the hubs and props before then.
One more thing. Matt had noticed that the props had a little movement from the axel.
Rob created a bushing to go around the axel to make it more snug and eliminated some of the play.
Rob made sleeves for the axel which greatly removed the “play.”
By the way, we are replacing all zincs so ignore the shotty ones in the photos below.
Rudder Arm
Do you remember when our port rudder arm (which controls steerage) broke at the access point? If not, please read “Failures Bring on Frustrating Times“.
We were able to weld it back together but we always considered that a temporary fix.
We took the rudder arm to our good friend Rob at RH Precision to properly fix it. Rob crafted a new piece which is twice (if not more) as strong as the original piece.
Not going to fail us now. Left piece is new and right piece is old in the photo below.
We evaluated starboard’s rudder arm and it looked solid and strong.
Varnishing
I took a stab at varnishing for the first time two years ago. See blog post “Varnish, Varnish, Varnish.” It looked amazing for about 1 year.
I could not remove some of the teak pieces off the boat, so they had to be varnished in place.
However, other pieces were easily removed so I could work on them in the shade of the boat.
For some strange reason, the pieces of teak that were removed did not hold up as well as the pieces left in place.
The pieces left in place are fine whereas the ones that were removed all need to be redone.
We learned that it was possible that some of the pieces failed because water “sat” on them.
The princess seats had water between the teak and the stainless and the swim steps are in/out of the water a lot. Hmmm, might be a possibility.
We decided to have Norsand revarnish with Awlwood. The teak is really old (25 years) and really should be replaced. But we really want to wait until we get to Indonesia to replace all of the teak.
Be sure to read about our brand new solar arch – it is super sexy!
Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.
We finally remove the funky taste and smell from our potable water tanks. See the blog post on the entire process.
We were in the Norsand boat yard working on repairs and maintenance items from November 2025 to January 2026.
