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Tahanea Anchorage with Easy and Rhapsody

Trouble in Tahanea

Tahanea is an uninhabited atoll known for its pristine turquoise waters and manta rays.  The motus have pink sand and towering palm trees that drape lazily over the shores.  There are three passes to enter this wide lagoon that is 30 miles long by 9 miles wide.  This atoll is one of the few bird refuges in the Tuamotus.  In addition, to its varied bird population there is an abundant sea life in the passes.  With gorgeous turquoise waters, towering palm trees and an active wildlife, this is a piece of paradise.  What could cause trouble?

Tahanea Anchorage with Easy and Rhapsody

Tahanea Anchorage with Easy and Rhapsody

Passage

We left the south pass of Fakarava at 0600 and exited the pass with zero problems.  It would be a light wind day with means lots of tacks.  The passage is only 50nm from pass to pass.  We were hoping to make it before sunset without using the motors.  With decent winds the first several hours we became hopeful that we would make it with time to spare.  However, we lost the wind and realized that we could not make it before dark – even with the motors!  Crap.  We got to the pass around 1900, hove to, and drifted at 1kt for the rest of the night (11 hours of waiting).  Around 0800, we turned around and headed for the pass.  

Passage Details

  • Miles to destination: 50nm
  • Total miles sailed: 92.1nm (did I mention lots of tacks?)
  • Total moving time: 25.23 min
  • Max speed: 8.3kt
  • Average speed 3.6kt (surprising considering we spent 12 hours at 1-2kts)

Here is our track showing all of our tacks and our hove to position over night near the pass.

CPN Track of our sail

CPN Track of our sail

Trouble All Around

After we made it through the pass, I hailed Mike on the VHF to tell him we had 2-3kts of incoming current (which is not bad).  Mike strained to tell me he had caught his finger while taking down the sail.  He is single handing, was heading toward the reef, had nothing but his cell phone in his pocket (no service).  His radio was in the cockpit along with his shoes.  His finger was crushed in a shackle and he was trapped. 

Torn between losing his finger or losing his boat.  Luckily, he was able to reach his anchor chain and windlass.  Using the windlass, he released some of the tension from the stay sail. This allowed him to remove his finger.  OMG!  We had no idea what happened until he was free and heading toward the pass.  He was in need of help, but we had to anchor first.

We dropped our hook between some bommies and attached all 5 of our 8 floats.  However, we did not let out enough scope as Matt wanted to help Mike anchor.  We thought we could just drop the rest of the scope when he returned.  What is scope?  It’s the distance between your anchor and your boat and we like a 7:1 scope at a minimum (prefer a 10:1).  Which means if we drop in 10 meters of water, we let out 70 meters of chain. 

Dragging Anchor with Floats

When Matt returned, we let out the scope, pulled back on the engines, and we dragged.  Farfugnugen!  We had to raise the chain, remove the floats, and try again.  The second time the windlass remote started to fail.  I use the remote while hanging off the bow to the floats.  Not being able to use the remote forces me to go to the forward hatch to use the wired remote then back to the bow (back and forth and back and forth).  Ugh!

While I am trying to work the windlass, I realize that there is something on our anchor.  And then Matt shouts at me that he lost port propulsion.  WTF!  He has starboard propulsion but that makes the boat steer to the side.  What a mess.  I am still investigating the issue with the anchor.  Matt and I switch places so he can remove the coral that was wedged on the anchor.  Third time is a charm.  Safely anchored, we go back to help Mike.

The next day Matt figures out that the port shifter cable is damaged.  Lucky for us we have a replacement (spare).  The end pin was disconnected from the cable and no longer working.  It took most of the morning, but Matt was able to replace the shifter, shifter mechanism, and cable!  You can see our old 19-year-old shifter was a little corroded (but it still worked).  We replaced it and will do the same on Starboard.

Shifter cable repair

Shifter cable repair

We took the windlass remote apart, checked the batteries and connections and it started working again.  Two problems solved, check and check!

The Tahanea atoll guardian stopped by to have us sign his guest book.  Then a local fishing boat stopped by an hour later and sold us yellow fin tuna for $10.

We ended our productive day with a gorgeous sunset.

Sugar Shack at Tahanea

Sugar Shack at Tahanea

Coming up next:

  • We take the new DJI drone out for its maiden voyage
  • Happy hour on Sugar Shack with Rhapsody, Easy, and Imani
  • A swim with manta rays
  • Rock art

Update:

Mike’s finger was severely crushed as was part of his foot (from the windlass).  He did not break either, but has lost skin, has blisters and is a bit of a mess.  We doctored him up – he will heal fine.

Blue Fin Tuna - 25-30lbs

Midnight Runner

After our all-day tour, we dropped off Yves and Martha back on Break Away and swung by a new boat that arrived earlier in the day.  They were on the center mooring which had a chafed line.  They wanted our mooring, but we could not tell how they wanted to get it while we were still on it (language barrier).  We planned on a midnight runner and agreed to call them on the radio when we left, but they never answered.

We had to time our arrival into Tikehau’s pass during slack tide which was at 0900.  With current sea conditions, the passage was estimated to be an 8-hour passage.   Matt hoisted the main and the jib and we were off at 6kts heading toward our destination.  I was not feeling well with my sprained ankle and bruised knee so I went back to bed once the sails were set.  Matt spent the night avoiding squalls and trying to hold course.  At one point he was 30 degrees off course but it kept the boat from banging against the waves.  Leaving at midnight would allow us to arrive around 0800 which was a little before the “slack tide.”  We had a full moon that lit our path and made it a beautiful midnight sail.

Blue Fin Tuna

After our midnight runner and about 45 minutes from the pass entrance, we spotted a lot of birds circling the waters.  We headed in that direction and ZING a line went spooling out!  We fell off course and brought in the jib to slow the boat down.  It took Matt awhile to bring this guy in, but he was worth it.

Blue Fin Tuna - 25-30lbs

Blue Fin Tuna – 25-30lbs

We arrived to the pass entrance at 0815 and it looked like the waves were pushing a strong current out.  We were already nose into the wind and with a strong current out it would make it challenging to enter.  So, we circled around for a half hour before putting the engines at 2000 RPM and heading in.  We made a whopping 3 kts entering the pass with the current and wind against us.  It took us an hour to get to the anchorage once we made it safely through the pass. 

Midnight Runner Passage Details:

Miles Traveled: 60.6 nm

Duration: 11 hrs (including waiting at pass & 1 hour across lagoon)

Avg. Speed:  6.1 kt

Max Speed:  10.7 kt

Wind Speed:  10-12 kt SE

Swell:  1-1.5 SE

We dropped the hook next to two other catamarans just off the long stretch of white, sandy beach.  Within 20 minutes, the 50’ Catana owners of “Oxygen” came over to say “hello.”  We invited Guy and Isobelle up to look around.  While they were still on the boat another dinghy came by from the catamaran closer to us.  It was a charter boat that had guests from Austin, TX!  Small freakin world.  A few hours later a small boat was entering the anchorage.  Matt was quirking his head and had a strange look on his face.  He grabbed the binoculars and shouted, “No way, that’s Alrisha!”  We met them in Panama and had seen them in passing in the Galapagos and Gambiers.

We invited Ferry and Bridgette (Alrisha) and our new friends Guy and Isobell on board for sundowners.  Our friends on “Alrisha” are German and “Oxygen” is French.  Somehow with our broken English we were able to tell great stories.  

Teti'aroa surge off the mooring

Sweet Sail Day: Tahiti to Teti’aroa

It was time to leave Tahiti, officially.  We left Tahiti “proper” or the main anchorage of Marina Taina a few days ago.  During that time, we were in the sweet anchorage of Point Venus which is still a big part of Tahiti.  We did a little more exploring and found a few large grocery stores, poste, pharmacy, fuel stations, and plumbing shop.  Who knew there would be supplies at the North point of Tahiti?

We met some great cruisers while anchored in Point Venus.  Odyle is a tall ship with a lovely family onboard: Abraham, Susan, Saoirse and Cian.  They’ve been at this anchorage for a few months repairing their engine, but all is good now.  We also met JollyDogs and Zeizo who are both American boats.  Great anchorage and good company.  Couldn’t resist inserting another cool shot of the famous lighthouse.

Point Venus Lighthouse

Point Venus Lighthouse

Sweet Sail

We raised the main sail, pulled up the hook and set out to a new island. We were both excited about visiting Teti’aroa as it is a small atoll with no access into the lagoon.  There are a few moorings just outside the reef that are available for charters and cruisers.  We were hoping to get lucky enough to snag one of the moorings.

Our sail over to Teti’aroa was amazing.   We shut the engines off just after leaving the reef. We had full sails, small swell, and wind on the beam.  It was a glorious day with blue skies, puffy clouds and calm seas.  Just another reminder why love sailing – picture perfect.

Passage Details:

Miles Traveled:  29.2nm

Duration:  4.5 hrs

Avg. Speed: 5.8

Max Speed: 9.4

Wind Speed: 10-12 kts

Swell:  .5 meters on the beam

About a few miles out from the atoll we could see 3 masts.  We were a bit crestfallen as we had heard there were only 3 moorings here.  However, we were determined to check it out up close.  It is pretty darn scary to see the reef breaking in front of and so close to the boats.

We entered the breakwater and motored around the three boats.  To our surprise we saw that there was a free mooring just behind them.  Sweet!  We tied up and enjoyed the show.  What show are you thinking?  One of the charter boat captains was bringing in his guests and had to navigate the reef and rather large waves.  It is an art to be able to get their dinghy through this dangerous area.  The surge is breaking less than 30 meters from the boat.  Hope this mooring holds our boat.

Teti'aroa surge off the mooring

Teti’aroa surge off the mooring

It is a breezy, but also rolly.  The surge is big, and the waves are loud.

Surge at Teti'aroa

Surge at Teti’aroa