Tag Archives: propspeed

Managing the Maintenance Part II

This is Part II of our maintenance list while on the hard at the Norsand Boatyard.  Please see “Managing the Maintenance Part I” for our work on our cross beam, sail drives, rudder arm, and props.

Here is a list of the items we worked on that are mentioned in this blog post:

  • New Scuppers
  • Paint Bow Peak Lockers (inside storage area)
  • Polishing Stainless Counter Tops (Bench)
  • Snap Shackles for Main Sheets
  • Cleaning the Interior Cushions
  • Miscellaneous Maintenance
    • Sail and Canvas Repair
    • Propspeed (Saildrives & Props)
    • Finsulate around Rudder posts
    • Window/Hatch removal of velcro
    • Teak Cleaning
    • Relabeling the clutches

Making New Scuppers

We have 17 scuppers (drains) at the bottom of the bridge deck. At some point, one of them fell off and we have not been able to find any replacements.  So, Matt decided to make his own.  

We purchased PVC white (1220mm x 300mm x3mm) plastic from Cambrian Plastics ($37USD).

Matt started by making a mold out of Plaster of Paris.  He made end plates to match the shape of the scupper and used scrap formica around the end plates.

Matt heated a cut piece of the PVC plastic in the oven at 200 degrees for 15-20 minutes.  He then took the warm piece, wrapped it around his mold, clamped it, and let it cool for 20-30 minutes.

We used a band saw or jig saw to cut out the shape, then sanded, drilled the holes, and created our new scuppers.

After we made our surplus, a friend told us about Tenob which makes smaller scuppers.

Repaint Bow Peak Lockers

The forward bow peak lockers are used for storing our spare sails, bean bags, passerelle, tons of fenders, SUP, folding chairs, and more.  

The interior paint of these two storage areas has been chipping off for years. 

It is only a cosmetic issue but it is one that has been bothering me for awhile.

The Long Process

Once the bow peak was empty, I used a metal scraper to remove all of the big flaky bits.  This process was a loud, dirty job.

I got out the power sander with attached vacuum to smooth out the walls, ceiling, floor and “V-berth.” 

It is probably 10-15 degrees hotter inside the hole.  Wearing a full suit, goggles and mask makes it seem even worse.

Next, I wiped down everything with soap and water twice. 

Then we pressure washed the entire bow peak with warm water and simple green and let it dry over night.

Matt mixed the two-part paint, Jotun Jotamasic 90 (3 parts A to 1 part B) and brought it to me.

It is specially designed for areas where optimum surface preparation is not possible or required and provides long-lasting protection in environments with high corrosivity.

The paint has a pot life of 2 hours so I had to work fast and in small increments. I started with the hardest to reach part first, the “V berth.”  It is super difficult to reach and requires full body contortion. 

But 4-hours later the entire bow locker was done.

The next day I painted a second coat and we let it out-gas for 7 days. 

Talk about a world of difference in appearance.

I also repeated the entire process on the port bow peak which was in a lot worse condition but now looks beautiful.

Stainless Countertop Polish

We love our stainless counter tops!  It does take a little more maintenance than standard counter tops but they look so beautiful!

Our countertops got marked up over the last 4 years, despite our careful management. We are not sure what caused these marks but it could be citrus, oil, salt, bleach, hard water).

We spent 4 hours masking and protecting the entire salon.  

An easy polish by Absolute Stainless and they look brand new.

We clean it twice a week with two products. 

For standard cleaning we use Weiman Stainless Steel Wipes (Amazon).  The cost ranges between $12-20 per container.

For corrosion or harder areas we use “Chemico Cleaning Paste” cleansing paste $7 (4 USD).  This paste was recommended by Absolute Stainless (the company who installed our counter tops).  

Snap Shackles

Our main sheets control our large main sail and are under a lot of pressure during a sail.  We have 16m double braid tied to a Harken Black Magic Air Becket block.  Catana custom made this block to be connected to a Wichard HR Snap Shackle (80mm) at $150USD x 2.

Our snap shackles were original to the boat and had some wear on the center clip which causes a weak point.  We had RH Precision fabricate new stainless steel pins that connected the snap shackle to the block.

More Cleaning

Cushion Cleaning: The inside of the boat got very dusty and dirty with all of the work in the yard.  So, I decided it was important to clean our interior upholstery.  We have Macrosuede fabric (color Ash) on the salon settee and the cabin benches. 

We hired JAE Cleaning Services in Whangarei to clean them for us. It was a bit of a chore getting the cushions to them, but worth it to use their “drying room.”

Of course it was raining on the day we had to transport the cushions. We wrapped each cushion in plastic to prevent it from getting soaked.

It was like playing a game of Tetris trying to fit the cushions into the car in one load.

Miscellaneous Maintenance:

Canvas:  We brought Kim (Masterpieces in Canvas) to repair and update a few pieces for us:

  • Kim made 3 new Sauleda window shades
  • Modified 2 helm back rests to accommodate the new arch
  • Made a new back rest cover for our new cockpit back rest.
  • Repaired the 2 side rain shades (put support around each snap and added velcro to hold corner when rolling up
  • Made covers for both of our bow princess seats to protect our new varnish
  • Repaired the aft shade had a small tear near the baton
  • Fixed a few small tears on the dinghy chaps
  • Replaced the top section of the starboard helm seat that got stained
  • Made 2 new helm covers to accommodate our new helm extensions and pods
  • Made a new cover for the cockpit back rest

Genoa: Roger from North Sails repaired our genoa which had a small tear near the bolt rope.  He also made a backup “Sweetie” patch for our dinghy.

Bottoms Up”

We burnished our Coppercoat which activates the copper.  We also added vinyl (from Finsulate) around our rudder posts where we once had antifoul bottom paint (which did not last).

Norsand applied Propspeed to our saildrives and props.  Matt greased the prop gears and changed all the zincs.

We added “Finsulate” a type of vinyl to the area around the rudder post.  Coppercoat can not be applied near our aluminum rudder post so added a vinyl.  

Good comparison between the vinyl around the saildrive and the rudderpost.

Each of these steps are to help prevent growth on the bottom of the boat.

Rudders

The rudders are all cleaned up and have a new bearings so it was time to install them.  The install went smoothly and took all of 10 minutes to do both rudders.

Teak Cleaning

The teak on the sugar scoops and in the cockpit were absolutely filthy.  We had dozens of workers coming and going, fluids spilled, and polish over-sprayed on them

I gave them a good scrub with teak cleaner.  I would prefer to oil or stain them but Matt likes them raw.  Perhaps next time I clean them I will out some oil on them.

Clutch Labels

We have close to 20 clutches on the boat.  Most of the clutches have labels dating back to 2001.  These labels were in both English and French and were very hard to read.

Of course, we know what the clutches do without the labels.  However, it is always a good idea to have nice, readable labels for others that might be assisting on the boat.

So, on a rainy day I took it upon myself to scrape the old labels off and put new labels on.

Lastly we washed and polished of the boat which made her all shiny and pretty.

Be sure to read about our brand new solar arch – it is super sexy!

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.

Be sure to read Managing the Maintenance Part I blog post.

We were in the Norsand boat yard working on repairs and maintenance items from November 2025 to January 2026.

A Coppercoat Failure?

This is such a difficult blog for me to write.  As you know, we spent a lot of money and time applying Coppercoat antifoul (see Coppercoat blog posts part I and part II) to our boat.  We had very high expectations that this product would last a very long time, save us money, and prevent us from hauling out every other year.  Maybe that was the problem?  Our expectations were too high?

The Prologue

We splashed from Norsand Boatyard and went up river to a marina. We stayed at the dock for 5 weeks and when we left, we had no concerns regarding the bottom job.  Why do you ask?

Last season we stayed in the same river for 8 months.  We had lots and lots of soft growth on our Carboline ablative paint.  I mean it looked like a small forest.  However, it easily fell off as soon as the boat started moving.  In fact, we sailed to Great Barrier (35-40nm) and by the time we got there the bottom had no growth!  Cool!

The Difference Between Seasons

As you might recall, last season 2023, had a lot of rain!  It rained at least 4 days a week if not more during the 8 months we were there!  Since we were on a river, the rain would fill the mountains and waterfalls which would push a lot of fresh, cold water down our river.  

However, this season we had very little rain and hot days.  Making the brackish water very warm and stagnant. Evidently this is a breeding ground for barnacles.

The Problem

Matt jumped in the water once we got to our first anchorage. He was completely shocked as our bottom was covered in barnacles.  This just 5 weeks after splashing into the water with fresh Coppercoat.

The barnacles were everywhere on the Coppercoat, on the hulls, on the stern, the bow, the very bottom and the daggerboards.  It was crushing!

Our Experiment

As you might recall, we did a little experiment.  We placed 4 different products on the bottom of our boat to see which would perform better over time.

As a note, Coppercoat cannot be near aluminum so we had to put a different product around the rudder shaft and the sail drive.

  1. Coppercoat on the entire hull
  2. Propspeed on the props.  This product can only go on the props, not on the hulls
  3. Vivid antifoul bottom paint near the rudder shaft (black circle)
  4. Vinyl Antifoul wrap near the sail drive (black square)

What was the outcome after the first 5 weeks?

The yellow propspeed had zero growth.  No soft or hard growth.  It was super clean!

The Vinyl antifoul, which we applied as sort of a joke, as we thought this would be the first to disintegrate or fall apart.  But this only had some soft growth which fell off with a light touch of your finger.

Vivid antifoul paint was covered in barnacles. 

And the Coppercoat was covered.

What Did we Do?

For those of you who know me this will come as no surprise.  I sent videos and photos to the marina (just to give them a heads up), to the yard (again a heads up and sought advice), and to the manufacturer of Coppercoat.

There are 5-6 marinas on this same river.  We know of several boats, that stayed at various marinas on this river that had similar problems. Some had antifoul paint and some Coppercoat – all the same results with tons of barnacles.

After a lot of back and forth, the manufacturer did nothing other than provide some insights.  I thought I’d share them here with the hopes that it would be helpful for other cruisers who have Coppercoat.

Insights

Assuming the Coppercoat was applied correctly, which we believe it was (again refer to our Coppercoat blog posts part I and part II)  and compare the application process to that which is recommended by Coppercoat).  

  • Standard antifoul paint starts off at full strength (containing the maximum biocide content when new) and gradually wears down (it grows weaker as the biocides leach away). Making is less effective the older it becomes (which we have seen first hand).  
  • Coppercoat when freshly applied is a relatively mild antifoul. It becomes stronger week by week.   Commonly, a two-year old treatment performs better than a two-week old treatment. This is because it takes time for the epoxy at the outer surface of the treatment to break down and allow the release of the copper.  This would have been good to know BEFORE we applied the Coppercoat as we may have changed our plans after launch.
  • Pure copper itself is relatively mild antifoul agent. It is actually the by-product of the copper oxidization process that have the stronger qualities.  Cuprous oxide is a far more powerful antifoul than pure copper.  It is the double effect of the resin degrading (to allow the exposure and release of the copper) itself oxidizing, that combine to provide a highly efficient antifoul.  And this process takes time.

Although we are very confident in the correct application process done by the yard, I failed to note what grade of sandpaper was used on the last burnishing.  I just noted in our blog that they sanded which is what they need to do to activate the Coppercoat. I wish I would have checked the grade.  However, I find it a ridiculous notion that they yard, who has been applying  Coppercoat for 10 years would have used the incorrect grade after all the time and effort it took to get to the final stage.  If they used a course or low grade sandpaper (something below 300 grade), which we truly believe the did not, it could have added to the problem (not been the cause of the problem, but added to it).

Bad Timing?

So does this all add up to just bad timing?  Our resin did not have a chance to degrade so the copper did not oxidize which allowed the barnacles a free hold on our bottom.

And it appears our boat was launched during a particularly high fouling time in a high fouling area.

We are aware of several other boats that stayed at different marinas along the same river and they too had a seriously bad barnacle problem.  In fact, one boat had Coppercoat that was applied a year ago, another had Coppercoat applied 5 months ago, and one had ablative bottom paint. All were covered in barnacles.  So, it was not just our marina, but perhaps the river, the warm water temperature, and bad timing?

The Solution

We immediately started cleaning the bottom of the boat with a metal scraper (while she is still in the water).  It took us 4 days and several turns with the hooka (diving apparatus) to remove all of the barnacles.  Again, this just breaks my heart!  We had such high hopes!  The reason it took us several days was because the water temps are really cold (20-21C) 69-70F degrees.  So, even with a wet suit we could not stay in the water more than 1.5-2hours at a time.

We unfortunately did not have the opportunity to haul the boat out immediately after discovery so we did the best we could with cleaning her while she was in the water.  You can see where we cleaned the top part in this photo.

We started with the metal scraper then followed it up with a scotch bright (mild) pad to get any remaining soft growth off the hull.

All in all it took us a total of 9 hours to clean the boat.  That’s 9 hours in 21c (69F) water which is really damn cold even in our wetsuits!

The good news is that 90% of the barnacles came off relatively easy with the metal scrape.  About 10% required more attention to get their white base off.  It was really difficult to get them off the freezer plates, SSB plates and around the dagger board casing.

Manufacturer Solution:

  • A thorough cleaning should be done immediately (and was).
  • The preferred method would be to haul the boat out and pressure wash it.  Then use a metal scraper (the type to decorate or remove old wall paper) to scrape off any remaining barnacles.  A fine grade of wet-and-dry paper (320 grade) should then be used.
    • The purpose of the sand paper is to remove the thinnest layer of epoxy at the surface to expose the copper held within. The exposed copper with then oxidize more readily when the boat is re-launched
  • Using course sandpaper will simply scratch the surface and provide a physical key for marine life to try to cling to. Only use mild grade paper or a burnishing pad.
  • It is important to do this quickly, before the growth becomes worse and attaches more firmly, as that will only make the cleaning more difficult.

After more back and forth, Aquarius Marine (Coppercoat UK), HullWell, and Norsand agreed to cover the cost to remove any remaining barnacles, and fully machine burnish the bottom at our next haul out.  We will be responsible for the cost to haul the boat and pressure wash it.  We will schedule to haul the boat out at the end of April as close to our departure date as possible – with the hopes of leaving NZ with a clean hull.

Still Hopeful

Matt and I are NOT giving up hope on Coppercoat.  We are hopeful that we were just at the wrong place at the wrong time with very young Coppercoat that was not ready for an onslaught of barnacles. So, I would say “not an overall failure but a complete and total disappointment.”

We will keep you posted on our experiment.  Feel free to contact us with any questions.

Our blog posts usually run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events, but I wanted this post to go out fairly close to the other two Coppercoat posts.  We discovered the barnacles around the end of January.  We are in a sticky situation in our last blog – did you read why?

The Low Down on Coppercoat Antifouling: Part II

In our last blog post we started the process of preparing our boat for new antifouling.  We typically used paint, but technology has changed and the better choice for protecting your boat’s bottom is coppercoat.  We ran into some problems and the original blog post grew too long so we broke it up into a few posts.  Here is part II.

Coppercoat

We ordered the coppercoat directly from the NZ coppercoat contact.  We ended up ordering 20 one liter kits which contain part A and B and the copper) and an additional (2) one liter cans for us (for any future repairs).  The reason we orderd one liter cans is because the coppercoat has a very specific application process and ordering it in larger quantities like 10L or 20L cans makes it very difficult for the team to apply it fast enough before it sets. You only get about 20-30 minutes to apply while constantly stirring your paint tin.

First the team, and yes, I mean “team” as 5 Norsand guys bring the supplies.  They set up a make shift table to lay everything out.  The 20 kits (each has 3 parts), 15 buckets, 15 paint trays, 15 rollers, 5 small rollers, tons of rags, turps, and gloves.  So much plastic.  The Coppercoat sets so quickly that they cannot reuse the buckets, trays, or rollers for more than a few coats.  Everything moves at warped speed.

The preparations continue as the team (Aaron, Josh, Conor, Ian, Luke) tape off our saildrives, rudder bearings, transducers and other vital parts that can’t be covered in coppercoat and need protection.

The Application

The boat is washed down with ISO to remove all dust particles and then the magic begins.

Our chemist, Josh begins the mixing process.  He is dedicated to mixing each kit and keeping the painter’s trays mixed so the Coppercoat doesn’t set too quickly. Aaron (far left) is the yard manager and is supervising before starting the painting process.

The 5 guys work straight through lunch for over 5 hours applying 5+ coats, evenly, consistently, and professionally along our hulls.  It was exhausting work but they powered through and completed the job!  We were so pleased that we had a little happy hour celebration under the boat.

The first coat (top), the 3rd coat (middle) and the final coat (still wet).

I must be honest, I am not a fan of the color (copper) but I am even less pleased with what the color will look like once it spends 4-6 months in the salt water and oxidizes. And this is the permanent color for the next 10 years.  These are not our boats (obviously), but it will give you an idea of what Coppercoat looks like once it has oxidized in the ocean.

Prop Speed

The coppercoat sets as we are finishing up a few other boat projects.  One of the final projects is preparing the saildrives and props.  We sand them down, apply a barrier coat to the sail drives (the white paint), sand down the props one more time. Then it is time to apply prop speed which helps prevent growth and corrosion on the sail drives and props.  The bright yellow sure clashes with our copper bottom – oh well.

Activating the Coppercoat

It seems so wrong, but this is the process.  The yard comes in a few days before we splash to burnish (sand down) our beautifully painted Coppercoat.   Jamie uses 320 grit sand paper to activate the copper – but it was really hard to watch them burnish the new bottom job.

And that is the Coppercoat process.

Did you miss Part I of “The Low Down on Coppercoat Antifouling?”  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind actual live events.  This blog post started in early November and finished around the end of November.