Author Archives: Christine

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Nouméa: Where the Pacific Meets Paris

After nearly a week at sea, our expectations for Nouméa were simple: calm water, a place to clear customs, a baguette, and a cold drinks.

What we found instead was a little slice of France floating in the South Pacific.

One minute you’re navigating through one of the world’s largest lagoons, surrounded by turquoise water and coral reefs. The next, you’re tying up to the dock and debating which bakery has the best croissants. It’s a transition that can leave a sailor with a touch of cultural whiplash.

Ilot Kouen. Photo courtesy of Tony & Jaqui on Wainani.

Ilot Kouen. Photo courtesy of Tony & Jaqui on Wainani.

We docked at Port Moselle Marina where we checked into the country and settled in for a week.

Nouméa is the capital of New Caledonia, a French territory with a population of around 100,000 people. French influence is everywhere—from the language and architecture to the cheese selection that somehow seems larger than some Pacific islands.

For sailors, however, the real star is the lagoon. Stretching for thousands of square kilometers and protected by one of the world’s longest barrier reefs, it offers spectacular cruising grounds, abundant marine life, and water so blue it occasionally looks photoshopped.

The Noumea lagoon has over 1,600km of reef and is considered one of the largest lagoons (24,000km2) in the world listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Of course, life ashore has its own attractions. The waterfront promenades, bustling markets, and endless cafés provide a welcome break from fixing things on the boat. 

Shopping Galore

There are dozens of bakeries and cafes within walking distance to the marina. 

The French like their breads and coffees so you will find a bakery or cafe at every corner. We indulged every day with fresh baguettes and pastries! 

Abundant Bakeries

Abundant Bakeries

Right next to the Port Moselle Marina is a large fresh produce market! 

What a dream it is to have access to such a bountiful supply of produce!

We are within walking distance to several grocery stores as well such as Auchon, Carrefour and Geant! 

We can find pretty much everything in Noumea.

In the parking lot behind the marina is a pop up area that sells tourist stuff including clothing, carvings, paintings, and more.

Restaurants

There are loads of eateries around town. 

You can go to upscale restaurants, take away cafes, take away at markets, or the food trucks located minutes from the marina.

Nouméa has a way of sneaking up on you. Come for the lagoon, stay for the baguettes and wine, and leave wondering why every marina doesn’t have a bakery within walking distance.

For a sailor arriving from afar, it’s a destination that feels both wonderfully Pacific and delightfully French—a combination that’s surprisingly hard to sail away from.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We arrived in Noumea on the 12 of June 2026.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Where the Heck is New Caledonia?

New Caledonia is a small island country situated between Fiji and Australia.  It’s lagoon is one of the largest enclosed lagoon systems in the world, stretching over 24,000 square kilometers.  In addition, the lagoon is protected by the world’s second-largest continuous coral reef After Australia’s Great Barrier reef.

It is a place of turquoise lagoons, welcoming anchorages, and enough baguettes to make you forget you’re in the South Pacific.

But beneath the palm trees lies a fascinating and sometimes complicated history.

New Caledonia was first inhabited by the Kanak people around 3,000 years ago. European contact arrived much later when British explorer Captain James Cook sighted the islands in 1774. He thought the rugged landscape looked similar to Scotland and named it “Caledonia,” the Roman name for Scotland. Since “New Scotland” didn’t have quite the same ring to it, New Caledonia was born.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Image courtesy of CHESHER

France annexed the islands in 1853 and later used them as a penal colony. France sent more than 20,000 convicts here. In fact, some of those prisoners stayed after serving their sentences, and many present-day families can trace their roots back to those early settlers. 

Today, New Caledonia remains a French territory, making it one of the more unique places in the Pacific. The official language is French, the currency is the CFP Franc, and you’ll find croissants, fine cheese, and excellent wine surprisingly close to some of the world’s most beautiful coral reefs.

The population is just under 300,000 people, with roughly 40% identifying as Kanak, alongside communities of European, Polynesian, Asian, and other Pacific Island heritage. The capital, Nouméa, is home to nearly half the population and feels more like a slice of the French Riviera than a typical South Pacific town.

So how does New Caledonia make its money?

The answer is nickel.

The islands sit atop some of the world’s largest nickel reserves. New Cal has long been one of the planet’s major producers. Many countries use Nickel in stainless steel and increasingly in batteries for electric vehicles, making it a highly valuable resource. For decades, mining has been the backbone of the economy, though fluctuating global prices have created challenges in recent years.

And here’s a fun fact: New Caledonia is home to the kagu, a rare flightless bird found nowhere else on Earth. With its striking crest and unusual barking call, it looks like something Mother Nature designed after a particularly long lunch.

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Like many places in the Pacific, New Caledonia is balancing tradition, modernity, and questions about its future. Political discussions surrounding autonomy and independence remain important topics.

In recent years the country has seen periods of unrest as different groups debate the islands’ path forward.

The Kanaks are known for their warm nature, rich culture, and the remarkable natural beauty that surrounds them.

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Matt and I are very excited to adventure through New Caledonia. 

New Caledonia is a landfall of emerald mountains, crystal-clear water, fresh baguettes, and the comforting knowledge that paradise occasionally comes with French pastries.

Not a bad combination.

We plan to spend 2.5-3 months exploring Grande Terre (the main island) and its surrounding islands as well as Isle de Pines.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  We arrived in New Caledonia in early June 2026.

What’s Swimming Beneath Us? Citizens of the Sea

While most sailors are busy collecting sunsets, fish stories, and the occasional wayward flying fish, we’re helping collect something a little more scientific—DNA from the ocean itself!  As volunteers for Citizens of the Sea we play a vital part in this scientific discovery.

Citizens of the Sea, a New Zealand-based citizen science program that equips sailors with the tools to gather valuable ocean data while cruising some of the most remote parts of the Pacific.

Their mission is simple but ambitious: use the sailing community to help scientists better understand ocean health, biodiversity, and the impacts of climate change.

Our job is to collect environmental DNA (eDNA) samples. Every creature in the ocean leaves behind tiny traces of genetic material in the water.

By towing a torpedo-shaped device called the TORPeDNA behind the boat, seawater is filtered and these microscopic clues are captured for later analysis. No marine biology degree required—just a boat, a steady hand, and a willingness to play with science equipment at sea.

eDNA Ocean Samples

The samples we collect will contribute to a growing database covering Australia, New Zealand, New Caledonia, Fiji, Tonga, and the vast stretches of the South Pacific in between. Scientists can use this information to identify thousands of species, monitor biodiversity, track ecosystem changes, and improve our understanding of ocean health across an enormous area.

Matt launches the torpedo 4 times.  First to rinse it, then 3 consecutive times after that to collect samples.  The torpedo drags 15 meters behind the boat for 10 minutes.

It was a bit tricky with the difficult sea conditions.  We had 2-3 meter seas and 20kts of wind each time we were taking samples.

But Matt and I were clipped in and took extra precautions.  

After Matt pulls the torpedo in, he drains it and hands it to me.

I remove the end cap, take it inside, and remove the gasket.  Slowly and carefully, I fold the filter in three and the store it in a vile.

Next, I insert a new filter, place the gasket back on and put the end cap back on the torpedo for its next launch.

We repeat this process three times each day between 1000 and 1400 (when the sun is at its highest).

The Results

The results so far have been impressive. Participating sailors have already helped generate more than a billion DNA sequences from over 1.5 million square kilometers of ocean, all at a fraction of the cost of traditional research vessels. That’s a lot of science from a lot of salty volunteers!

We’re excited to do our small part. After all, if we’re already crossing these waters, why not help scientists learn a little more about what’s swimming beneath us? And let’s be honest—telling people we’re “collecting eDNA samples for marine biodiversity research” sounds much more impressive than saying we’re just out for a sail.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.  

We collected samples for Citizens of the Sea on our passage from New Zealand to New Caledonia.  Early June 2026.