Category Archives: Daily Lime

One way to move a banana tree

Hiking Across Mangareva

Mangareva, the largest and main island in the Gambiers has wonderful mountains, ridges, trails and paths to explore.  So, we spend a few days hiking across Magareva.

Pt. Mataiutea Hike

The first “hike” for the new year was actually a very gentle 7.2 mile walk along a road.  Good for me as I had not exercised in a long time and needed to ease into it again.  Even though it was long, it was mostly flat and very easy.  We walked along the main road which turned into a dirt road which hugged the coast line along the water’s edge.  It was super pretty, a little breezy, and just what I needed to start the new year.

7.2 mile hike across Mangareva

7.2 mile hike across Mangareva

7-Miles Across 3 Trails

We took Kirimiro to Taku (Pt Teauorogo) to Chemin Ramapiko.  We decided to tackle the hardest incline first so we started on Chemin Kirimiro (which is across the street from the best magasin on the island, JoJo’s).  It is a steep and consistent incline that leads you to Arc de Triomphe de Kirimiro.  Half way up the first part of the hike we had a beautiful view of the Rikitea anchorage.

Rikitea Anchorage-Half way up the hike

Rikitea Anchorage-Half way up the hike

Fun photo of the Arc where we have had the pleasure of visiting before. 

Matt showing off under the arc

Matt showing off under the arc

From here you can walk the ridge to the left or right.  You can also go under and through the arc and continue down to the small village of Kirimiro which is what we did.  Once we got to Kirimiro, we turned right and walked along the road for 2.1 miles until we got to another small village (meaning 3 houses) called Apeakava.  On the road we came across this local transporting a banana tree on a moped!

One way to move a banana tree

One way to move a banana tree

Further down the road, we came across a rocky cliff.  Matt discovered a hidden gem inside the rock’s ledge.  A baby boobie.

Baby Boobie nested in the rocks

Baby Boobie nested in the rocks

We passed several old ruins that were once mighty and majestic.

Old ruins around Mangareva

Old ruins around Mangareva

From here we hiked up and down the Chemin Taku trail which connects with Chemin Ramapiko and leads you back to another road.  From there is was a short 1.2 mile walk back to the dinghy dock.

Mangareva Hikes

Mangareva Hikes

Looking at the map below, we stared just below the little below the small, blue image of a ship, then walked up to Arc de Triomphe de Kirimiro, down the dotted trail to the white road.  Followed the white road to Apeakava (where the dots are), across the trail to the gold star and then back down to the blue image ship.

Hiking Across Mangareva

Hiking Across Mangareva

The French Navy Arrives

The Bouganville is a French Navy war ship that travels around French Polynesia ensuring the waters are safe for travel.  We had the pleasure of touring this fascinating vessel in Makemo (click here to read about the tour).  Our friend Stephan had alerted us of the Navy ships arrival and asked us to clear the channel of all cruising boats.  We did, but that was 3 days before they arrived.  The day before the ship’s arrival, two French cruising boats anchored right in the channel.  The French will do what the French will do.  The ship had to maneuver around them to get to the dock.  But with massive bow thrusters and fancy engineering they made it without incident.

The ship was only here for 1 day and did not allow for any tours.  Must have been a shore break for the crew.

French Navy Arrives to Mangareva

French Navy Arrives to Mangareva

Taravai Bound

We left Rikitea and headed toward Taravai to prepare for my birthday party!  It is always a serene and stunning anchorage.  We visited Valerie, Herve, Alan, and Ariki and procured lots of fresh produce.  Herve was being silly and strategically placed a rather large cucumber…. And we came across a humongous pig.

We were blessed with sunset that streaked across the sky.

Taravai Sunset

Taravai Sunset

Events from this blog post occurred in January 2021.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

View half way up the mountain

Gambiers Welcomes Us Back

What a pleasant surprise to pull into Rikitea (the main anchorage) with only 3 other boats!  If you remember from last season, we left when there were 35 boats in the same anchorage.  We found out that there are only 6-7 boats in all of Gambiers which is amazing and refreshing.  I am sure that will change once February rolls around that seems to be the time when the wind provides a better shot to this beautiful archipelago.

The weather was sunny, blue skies, and calm waters.  Rikitea had blue water and not the awful green murky water it’s known for.  Simply beautiful. We went ashore to see if we could find some fresh produce but most of the magasins (markets) were either empty or low on stock and quality.  The supply ships are coming soon.  We made a stop at Phillipe (the brioche guy) to do some internetting as we had been offline for 2.5 weeks and were not surprised by the very slow speeds!  Could not upload a photo to the blog and it took an extreme amount of patience to get to a website. Oh well, nothing new there.

Hike Around Mt. Duff

I am pretty sure Matt hoodwinked me.  He said he wanted to hike around Mt. Duff and hoped to collect some produce.  I should have asked for clarification about the hike as I was not ready for it at all.  It started out nice enough along the main road, behind the huge St. Michael cathedral and up toward the gap that separates Mt. Duff and Mt. Mokoto. 

The main road takes you past the Gambiers cemetery which has a mausoleum (which looks like a small church).  Inside the mausoleum is one grave.

Gambiers cemetery

Gambiers cemetery

Many of the gravestones have photos of the decease and either flowers or shells adorning the gravesite.

This same road takes you by the recycling area and the gravel yard.  The locals recycle cans, aluminum and glass.  Unfortunately, they do not recycle plastic yet.  If you go further down the road you will come to their dump, I did not think you needed to see that site.

Gambiers Recycling

Gambiers Recycling

We found a few papayas on the side of the road and loaded them into our back packs. 

Just before the turn off to the main trail we had this pretty view of the anchorage.  Can you see Sugar Shack?

And the view the other way is equally pretty.

Aukena in the distance

Aukena in the distance

Once we reached the trail, we had already walked 3.2 miles (7,865 steps, 30 floors).  Yep, I was tired already and we have not even started the trail.  What did I get myself into?  Clearly, I am out of shape.

The start of the trail

The start of the trail

A higher view of the anchorage from the trail.  The water color is just magnificent, don’t you think?

View half way up the mountain

View half way up the mountain

The Trail

The locals must have just cleared the trail as it was lovely and easy to walk on.  Usually the trail is covered in raspberry bushes, overgrowth, pine needles and such.  There are a few areas where you still have to traverse across a landslide, climb over a tree, scurry over rocks, and wade through pine needles.  But for the most part the trail was awesome.

Along the first part of the trail (as you go up toward the gap between the two mountains) you will find lots of informative signs about the plants and trees.

Many types of ferns, coconut trees…

Flowering bushes and trees

Huge Elephant ear plants and grass

And more ferns and grass.

We found tons of fresh fruit including papaya, raspberries, chili peppers, pomplemouse, noni, oranges, limes, avocado, tomatoes, lychee, and mangos.  Most of the fruit was not ready for picking so we let it continue to mature.  But we did come away with raspberries, papaya, lychee, and pomplemouse.

So many fruit, so little time....

So many fruit, so little time….

You might wonder what lychee is. We had heard about this delicious fruit for two seasons.  This fruit only grows in cool climates like Gambiers and Australs and it only blooms in December.  Lychee is red and you peel it like an orange and then eat the tasty white nectar around the seed.  It is super sweet and divine!

Lychee the sweetest fruit

Lychee the sweetest fruit

Summit

We finally reach the summit.  Keep in mind that the gap summit is nowhere near the top of Mt. Duff or Mt. Mokoto.  It is tall, but not as tall as the two mountains.  But the views are superb.

Total hike was 6.8 miles, 16,757 steps and 93 floors.    If you look at this map, we took the black road that starts at Rikitea (top right), went down (bottom right), to the orange trail.  Then we took the orange trail up and over back to the red “You are here” bubble which connected back up with the black zig zag line and took us back to town. 

The gap between Mt. Duff (on right) and Mt. Mokoto (left).  We hiked between the two peaks.

By the time we got back to the boat, I was exhausted.  I poured a cold drink, took some advice, hopped in the shower, and then collapsed on the couch where I stayed for the rest of the evening.  Yeah me!

Matt:  My Goat

Matt is truly part goat. I  say that in a loving and admiring way.  He has incredible stamina and can hike for miles and miles and miles without getting tired.  When I work on the blog he goes for a hike or a walk.  Part of me is jealous as I’d love to go exploring with him, but part of me is relieved.  One because I can’t keep up with him and two because he is far more adventurous than I am.

One afternoon I spent well over 5 hours working on the internet (blog, banking, etc…).  Matt hiked over 10 miles around the tip of Mangareva.  He finally came back exhausted, bumped, and bruised, and tired.  It was the first time, in a long time, that I had seen him spent.  The photo says “8” miles but it was really 10!

Events from this blog post occurred around 12 December, 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.