Category Archives: New Zealand

Baguette search day #2

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The first night done and dusted, bounced as Lionel Richie would say “all night long”. Bits of sleep were had, always takes a bit to get into the swing of making a passage.

You know what makes it all better! BACON! Perfect reward for night one down, also pork products are one of the many things not allowed to be on the ship when we arrive. Bacon McMuffins a great way to start the day, sounds like a Macca’s slogan. ( that is what McDonalds is called in this part of the world, still spelled right just pronounced differently )

All in all a good day, still struggled with current in the morning, shook a reef out of the sail eventually found favorable currents and seas were turning the corner and decided we were going interesting places and start to follow along. Instead of thinking the waves could get us to stay in New Zealand they listened to our story and promise of the perfect baguette,

Lots of naps and staying inside where it’s a bit warmer, with the winds and seas out of the south it’s a bit chilly. Only venturing out a few times per hour to look for pirates or any other possible collision targets. None spotted.

Boat was totally crusted in salt from the previous bashing. Seriously needed a car wash. Read foreshadowing..

Spent the day watching AIS traffic and which boats were leaving and which were staying. With at least 3 professional weather routers and at least 100 boats all trying to get to the tropics, can you guess the common topic and gossip? This time of year, weather opinions trump American politics. Everyone has a “thought” and with being 6 weeks past the end of cyclone season and non normal weather patterns there is too much information. Hard not to get caught up in the heard. Add to the difficulty that leaving NZ is at least a 5 day passage and the weather forecasts are good for about 3 days, the gossip and possibilities about days 4, 5, 6 and beyond adds a the stress of making a passage. The go, no-go choice is always a challenge when it’s not champagne sailing.

Checked into gulf harbor radio with Patricia and Dave at 5:15pm on the SSB. They offer tracking and weather information to the cruising community, and most of all someone else to chat with on long passages.

Spicy Cajun pasta and focaccia bread for dinner after the ham radio net. Christine is getting ready to go to sleep, and asks “should we take in another reef for the night” to which I reply “it’s fine” it’s been a wonderful day. She just got to bed, and the sounds of wind are starting. Where did that squall come from? 35 knots of driving rain, I get soaked reducing the head sail and running even further downwind. Needless to say we took the reef for the night. And boat got was it deserved.

While we did have the radar alarms on, they were set for looking ahead of the boat, but since we were now going the same direction as the weather the alarms need to look behind too. Fixed now, after the surprise of course.

Cheers all well on board on night #2

Our first 24 hrs, nearly 200 miles through water, 176 miles over ground but only 156 count toward our destination. That’s sailing math. We have 645 miles to go

Leaving NZ a 3rd time isn’t easy

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Time to head back to the tropics, well past time actually but Mother Nature had her own schedule.

Brrrrr

Saying good bye is never easy, but in sailing it’s till we meet again. Still doesn’t make it any easier after spending nearly more than a year and a half getting to know good people and making great friends in New Zealand. 🇳🇿. Will definitely miss them as this is possibly our last trip to these waters by sailboat.

We left New Zealand on Saturday June 6th with nearly 900 miles to go to New Caledonia. Was a bit bouncy with current and waves trying to keep us from leaving. We knew it was an uphill battle till we got clear of the island. After waiting for a month for a plausible weather window, getting excited and ready, only to realize the window just became a window with shutters this frosted window showed up. Not a crystal clear window, but a workable window.

The winds look good, the seas are bigger than we’d like but they are mostly going the same direction as us, except for the start.

At the last minute another system was showing up in the forecast a week out right between New Caledonia 🇳🇨 and Fiji 🇫🇯 . Ugh! Originally we were to wait so the start wasn’t into the current and waves, but leaving a day earlier added padding to the other end so scramble and push up the and that’s how we ended up out here.

Afternoon start, not much time to get sea legs before darkness set in.

Last NZ sunset

In search for baguettes,

Whangaroa’s Beauty and Protection

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Our main purpose for coming to Whangaroa was to find protection from Cyclone Vaianu (see post).  We were super pleased with the outcome and our safety after the cyclone.  Now it was time to go exploring.

Whangaroa is filled with dozens of anchorages and bays.  You can find protection from the wind from any direction and still have a beautiful view.  Lots of mountains and hillsides covered in trees, bush, and scrub.

Unfortunately for us, we were here after multiple storms so the waters were a milk chocolate brown. 

The soil from the mountains run down through the rivers and into the bays.  This gives the water its Hershey’s  color.  Eventually, the brown water will leave through the pass and clear up to its beautiful blue. 

Whangaroa Harbor after Cyclone Vaianu

Whangaroa Harbor after Cyclone Vaianu

One morning we had a particularly foggy morning which delivered some amazing drone shots!

Whangaroa Town

The Whangaroa town is very, very small.  The Whangaroa Sport Fishing Club and marina are the main focal point.  They have a restaurant and bar that serve pretty tasty food.

There is a town hall which also serves as the church, a huge recycling and trash center, and the Marin Whangaroa (hotel and eatery).  

Locals will drive 8km to the next town for a small grocery store or 30 minutes to Keri Keri where there is a large grocery store.

Trekking in Whangaroa

We visited Whangaroa in 2024 and had the pleasure of doing two fun but challenging hikes. See this post which has photos of Whangaroa’s much prettier water here.

We decided to replicate both hikes – because, why not.

The Duke’s Nose hike was a muddy mess but a good hike.  See the blog post “The Duke’s Runny Nose” for this adventure.

St. Paul’s Track

Explorers named it St. Paul’s rock because of its domelike structure which resembles St. Paul’s Cathedral. 

It is a relatively easy, short, but steep trek up to the top.

It took us less than 1 hour return to climb the 213m elevation.

St. Paul’s Rock track is a short but rather steep trail.  You walk along a dirt path which can be muddy after a rain storm (which is when we visited).  

Starting at the Whangaroa Sport Fishing Club, you turn left on the main road and then right on Old Hospital Road. 

You walk the road for about 10 minutes before turning right at the Kings view lodge where you climb over the fence (see stairs right photo).

The trail winds through manuka bush, through open fields, and between massive boulders where you use chains to climb.

D.O.C (Department of Conservation) has dug foot holes on the steep parts. 

In addition, they added a chain on the last 30 meters to help you climb the rock.

We were rewarded with spectacular views of Whangaroa Harbor once we reached the top.

Protecting Whangaroa

NZ installed a 6-inch gun in 1942 at Whangaroa Harbor.  Next to it was a bunker.

However, by the end of 1943 the gun had been removed and the land sold.

As you can see, it is now used as a seating area with a picnic table.

Whangaroa is a truly beautiful place to anchor and enjoy.

We feel so blessed to be able to enjoy the protection of the bays during Cyclone Vaianu.

Find the St. Paul’s Trek on No Foreign Land.

We were in Whangaroa for a week during the first part of April 2026.