Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Round the Outside to Anaho Bay

Continuing our circumnavigation around Nuku Hiva with Shawn and Sharon.  Starting at Taihoe Bay, to Controller’s Bay to Anaho Bay (northern part of the island).  We left Controller’s Bay and pointed the boat toward the northern bay of Anaho.  A short 17.5nm trip that took a little over 3 hours with an average speed of 5.5kt.  A large heard of dolphins came to play with us for 45 minutes showing their prowess and agility.

Dolphins leading the way

Dolphins leading the way

Anaho Bay has a lovely beach, tiny church, and a pension (hotel type place) with an eatery.  We thought it would be very crowded as Anaho Bay is known to be one of the prettiest bays in Nuku Hiva.  But it was not too bad with only 11 boats in the anchorage.  To put it in perspective, there are well over 50 boats in Taihoe Bay.

Anaho Bay

Anaho Bay

A few locals were hanging around enjoying the sun, cleaning their catch, and playing music.  The church cannot hold many people, but there are only 12 people who live in this bay.

Small Church in Anaho Bay

Small Church in Anaho Bay

There are beautiful wild horses that roam around and run the beach – because they can!

Wild horses on the beach

Wild horses on the beach

We did a quick walk about just to stretch our legs and then retired back to the boat for a lazy day.

Anaho Beach Stroll

Anaho Beach Stroll

The next morning greeted us with a gorgeous sunrise and motivated us to do another hike.

Sunset in Anaho Bay

Sunrise in Anaho Bay

Hike to Haatuaua

Early the next morning we set out to explore the beach.  We read about a nice hike to another bay.  This time we clearly saw the trail the day before and we had a path.  It was a super easy and pretty hike along the beach and over the mountain to another beach. 

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

We had the entire bay to ourselves which was awesome.  The mountains surrounding the beach had spectacular ridges.  It looked like a large version of stalagmites reaching for the clouds.

Beautiful beach ridges

Beautiful beach ridges

On our way back we ran into a family and talked them into taking our photo at the top of the ridge.

Group photo at the top of the hill

Group photo at the top of the hill

When we got back, we found our dinghy on “the hard.”  Which means she was beached.  The tide had gone out and she was sittin pretty in the sand.

Beached Sweetie

Beached Sweetie

Hike was a total of 4.8mile and 12,991 steps.  Not a bad day’s walk.

Daniel’s Bay

Our longest passage with Shawn and Sharon was from Anaho Bay to Daniel’s Bay at 25.8nm over 5 hours. Only a few dolphins came out to play with us, but we did manage to land a rather large wahoo!  After about 30-35 minutes of fighting with the fish, he gave a little pull, then came in rather easily.  When we pulled him on the boat, we realized something (most likely a shark) ate his tail off.  With no means of propulsion and probably bleeding out he gave up. 

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

As the boys spent over an hour cleaning the fish, I enjoyed the amazing topography of the mountain ridges.

Spectacular Ridges

Spectacular Ridges

We arrived in the late afternoon and only had a short time to visit the beach.  A cute little dog befriended Sharon and stuck like glue to us.

Daniel's Bay River

Daniel’s Bay River

We walked along the river’s edge where the river meets the lagoon and did a little photo shoot.

Daniel's Bay River with Sharon

Daniel’s Bay River with Sharon

We all enjoyed a nice hot shower before dinner.  The boys in their towels being silly.

Boys dress up for dinner

Boys dress up for dinner

You can’t come to Daniel’s Bay without doing the nature walk to the “trickle fall” (which is actually a waterfall in the winter).  It is a gorgeous walk down an easy path lined with beautiful plants, flowers, and fruit trees.  You cross the river several times, climb over some rocks, and under trees.  Unfortunately, the waterfall was not even a trickle fall, but it still is really pretty.

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

On the way back took some fun and goofy photos.

Waterfall at Daniel's Bay

Waterfall at Daniel’s Bay

Total hike 7.2 miles, 17,15 steps.  We rewarded ourselves with lunch at Teiki and Kua

Back to Reality

The next day we had to head back to Taihoe Bay so they could catch their flight back to the states.  We had an early birthday celebration with pork chops, cheesecake and my favorite rose wine! 

Birthday celebration

Birthday celebration

It was really hard to say “so long” to Shawn and Sharon!  They are such amazing people and great friends!

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Hiking Nuku Hiva

We begrudgingly left Daniel’s Bay to head back to Taihoe Bay. It was a quick hour motor back to the main anchorage where we secured a spot near the west end of the bay close to the small resort.  We had a “changing of the guards” so to speak where Wayne would be leaving us in a few days and Shawn and Sharon were coming on board in Nuku Hiva.  Both Shawn and Sharon are big runners so we planned several hikes during their visit.  

After the Melnar’s arrived, we headed back to the boat to begin celebrating their arrival.  It was a fabulous evening of good friends, cold drinks, and tasty food.  It’s been awhile since all 5 of us were together and it felt glorious!

Bon Voyage Wayne!

The next day we dropped Wayne off at the taxi and said our sad goodbyes.  Since, we were already on shore we decided to do the hike to Collette’s Bay.  We were able to walk Shawn and Sharon through town, the artisan market, and fresh produce market along the way.

We also swung by the beautiful Nuku Hiva Catholic church which has some amazing wood and stone carvings.

Church on Nuku Hiva

Church on Nuku Hiva

HIKE TO COLETTE’S BAY

Our “late start” of 1130 meant it was hot, hot, hot during our walk.  The first 1.5 miles of the “hike” is a walk down the road.  Then the road disappears and it becomes a dirt path.  The trail is well marked and easy to follow.  The last 1-1.5 miles is up hill until you reach the beach shores.

We enjoyed a few hours in the water before heading back.  A little piece of paradise hidden in Nuku Hiva.

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Shawn and Sharon Colette’s Bay

Of course, Matt had to be part of the photo shoot

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Hike total distance 5.8 miles, 14,243 steps, and 22 floors climbed.

CONTROLLER’S BAY

A short, but uncomfortable motor from Taihoe Bay to Hakahaa Bay (Controller’s Bay) was into the wind and waves.  We decided to leave early while it was a little calmer, but still encountered 2-meter seas.  Luckily Shawn and Sharon weathered through it and we arrived without incidence. 

Controller’s Bay has three “lobes” or bays where you can anchor.  Most people anchor in the middle one because it is bigger, has good holding, and is where the village is located.  The village consists of three small magasins, a medical center, post office, artisan center, and a church.  This is the main community area, artisan market, and performance area during festivals.

Artisan Market and Performance Area

Artisan Market and Performance Area

We had heard that there is a pretty waterfall hike in Controller’s Bay.  Of course, we did not have directions and the location was not clearly explained in the compendium (cruiser information sharing document we use).  It was not on maps.me or any of our other map apps.  Well, how hard can it be to find a waterfall?

The Elusive Waterfall

We started down the one road and headed toward the mountains.  Surprisingly, it was a nice paved road through “town” and toward what we thought was the path to the waterfall.  The hike was supposed to be 2-hours, but we did not know if it was 2-hours each way or round trip. 

After walking down the road for about 90 minutes, we spotted a waterfall.  We all hoped it was not the waterfall we were supposed to be heading to as it was really far away (top photo below).

Matt and Sharon decided to head back shortly after spotting the waterfall.  Shawn and I decided to continue on to the “waterfall overlook.”  Probably not the smartest decision.  Shawn is recovering (nicely) from knee surgery late last year and I was in flip flops. 

Another 2 miles later and about ¾ of a mile from our waypoint, a small vehicle came up the road.  I stuck my thumb out hoping for a ride.  They stopped and wouldn’t you know it they recognized my Sugar Shack hat.  We climbed in the back of their little truck and they took us to where maps.me indicated a lookout was located.  Nice view, but not lookout and no waterfall.  We had gone from 600’ elevation to 1200’ elevation and had already hiked 4.5 miles.  Top photo is the original waterfall and bottom photo is the “lookout” view of no waterfall (bottom photo below).

Controller's Bay Failed Hike

Controller’s Bay Failed Hike

Worn Out

We were both tired and ill prepared, but continued on back towards town.  By the time we got to town, we had no money, out of water, and had a few blisters to show for our 9-mile hike.  Again, probably not the best decision, but an interesting adventure.  We did come across a heard of baby piglets which were cute.

Little Piglets

Little Piglets

Hike total distance was 8.9 miles, 20,546 steps, and 61 floors climbed (1/4 mile assisted by a truck).

A Reprieve for us all

Once back on the boat, we headed for a little sandy islet where we hung out in the water and rested our weary bones.  Shawn found the energy to paddle over, but Matt drove Sharon and I in the dinghy – thank goodness.

Shawn paddling to beach

Shawn paddling to beach

Did you read our last post about Daniel’s Bay and our hikes there?

Coming up next:

We explore Anaho bay together.  Located on the north coast of Nuku Hiva.

Hakatea Bay with Peneque

Hakatea Bay – Daniel’s Bay

Hakatea Bay also known as “Daniel’s Bay” is just around the corner from the main village of Taihoe in Nuku Hiva.  But it might as well be another island as it is so different.  There are about 10-12 people that live in this little piece of paradise.  A small white sandy beach is surrounded by towering mountains that glitter in the sun.  It was so hard to capture on camera, but the trees were truly golden against the deep black crevices of the hillside. 

The top photo is of one side of the bay, the center is the golden hillside and the bottom is the actual palm tree lined beach where the locals live.

Hakatea Bay = Daniel's Bay

Hakatea Bay = Daniel’s Bay

There is no dinghy landing so we had to get creative with “Sweetie.”  The first time we went to shore we dragged her on the beach.  Always a challenge as she is heavy and has a 25hp outboard on the stern which makes it even more difficult.  We had Wayne and a fender which helped.  Basically, we slipped the round fender under the dinghy and rolled it under Sweetie to get her up the sand dune. 

Beauty of Daniel’s Bay

We were blown away by how unique and beautiful this village is. Tropical flowers, plants and trees line the single dirt road from the beach to each house.  Tons and tons of fruit trees are all around, pomplemouse, avocado, mango, lemon, breadfruit, noni and more.

Hike to waterfall in Daniel;s Bay

Hike to waterfall in Daniel;s Bay

There is a freshwater stream that runs along the “town” that enables them to bring their boats in during high tide.  A super small, but efficient church, a cemetery on the hillside and very practical homes.

Daniel's Bay village

Daniel’s Bay village

Each home had a sign indicating the address of the inhabitant.  Either carved in stone or etched in a piece of wood.

Local plot claims

Local plot claims

Waterfall Hike

Daniel’s Bay (Hakatea Bay) is known for the tallest waterfall in French Polynesia.  The locals told us that the falls would be “dry” because it is summertime.  However, it is still a pretty nature walk so we forged ahead.  The trail continued down the main dirt road lined with beautiful and colorful flora and fauna.  At one point, it looked like it was covered in snow from the pods that fell and littered the walkway with white fuzz.

One road in Daniel's Bay

One road in Daniel’s Bay

The road turned into forest and became more of a small path.  Lots of rocks, boulders and ruins could be found here.  You could certainly find remnants of an old village which was fascinating.

Ruins along the path to the waterfall

Ruins along the path to the waterfall

After 1.5 hours we arrived at the “waterfall” or what I like to call a “trickle fall” since there was truly very little water coming down the mountain.  It sure was pretty and we could imagine how breathtaking it was.

Hakatea Bay Waterfall

Hakatea Bay Waterfall

At the bottom of the “falls” is a fresh water pool, but it was stagnant and not too appealing.  However, when you turned your back to the falls you were surrounded by lush greenery and mountains.

Just a couple of posers

Just a couple of posers

Hike to Waterfall in Hakaui was 6 miles, 15,838 steps and up 14 floors.  A good workout.

Lunch Local Style

On the way to the waterfall, we ran into Kua and Tieki who are known for their tasty cuisine.  We told them we would be back for lunch around noon.  Matt and Wayne are part goat and practically ran up and back from the falls.  We finished the hike in just over 3 hours so we had time to kill before lunch.

When we arrived, two other cruisers were seated under the awning and little table was set up in their garden for Matt, Wayne and I.  It so pretty to be in the middle of the fruit trees, flowers and plants.  They grilled lobster for me and goat for the boys.  It was pretty darn tasty and not bad for a total of $40.

Lunch with Teiki and Kua

Lunch with Teiki and Kua

Beach Walk

We needed to walk off our large lunch so we took the dinghy to a neighboring beach.  We found lots of crabs and had fun playing with a rather large one and a stick.  The poor thing must have been traumatized because he hid in my footprint after we left.

Beach walk and crab friends

Beach walk and crab friends

To our great surprise, our neighbors from Ua Pou, Peneque showed up and anchored next to us.  They were the super nice French people who heled us out and never squawked at us for bumping fenders for 3 weeks during the festival.

Hakatea Bay with Peneque

Hakatea Bay with Peneque