Día de la Independencia de Cartagena

Columbia offers many beautiful destinations, but bring Sugar Shack will only see Santa Marta.  We originally thought about sailing her down to Cartagena, but after arriving in Santa Marta and doing a little research, we felt it’d be best to leave her in Santa Marta and take the bus into Cartagena.

Cartagena in the distance.

Cartagena in the distance.

Our twelve year wedding anniversary is November 11 which also happens to be Cartagena’s Independence Day celebration.  Seems like a perfect time to go on a new adventure, don’t you think?   Jon, Mia, and Teo on “Itchy Footdecided to come on this journey with us.

Pedro de Heredia, a Spanish Commander, founded Cartagena de Indias in 1533. Its rapid growth began after the establishment of the Viceroyalty of New Granada in 1717. The Silver Age of the city is the period between 1750 and 1808. Cartagena became the richest city of the colony at that time.

On November 11, 1811, Cartagena declared its independence from Spain amidst the Peninsular War, which became Latin American Wars of Independence.  Cartagena’s Independence is an important milestone even though the city was almost destroyed in 1815 and Columbia didn’t gain full independence for several more years.

Twenty people were took the Marsol to Cartagena which took a little over 4 hours.  It was a nice bus with reclining seats and AC and it made one stop for food and bathroom breaks.

Comfy little buses transporting us to Cartagena.

Comfy little buses transporting us to Cartagena.

We checked in to our respective hotels and set a meet up place and time.  Matt and I stayed at Casa Ebano 967 for a whopping $35 per night.  Matt is almost touching both walls under the AC unit and the bathroom wall was not much bigger.   It wasn’t big, but it was clean and safe.

Entrance to hotel, two pics of small room, street of our hotel and bathroom in our room.

Entrance to hotel, two pics of small room, street of our hotel and bathroom in our room.

We walked to the Walled Colonial City or “ciudad amurallada” which consists of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It is a real gem of colonial architecture, packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces, and mansions with their overhanging balconies and shady patios.

The old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the thick walls built to protect it against enemies. Construction began towards the end of the 16th century, after the attack by Francis Drake; until that time Cartagena was almost completely unprotected. The project took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and pirate attacks. Only in 1796 was it finally finished, just 25 years before the Spaniards were eventually expelled.

Entrance to Walled City.

Entrance to Walled City.

Walled City from the parade route.

Walled City from the parade route.

The streets are lined with colorful store fronts, offices, apartments, cafes, hotels, hostels, and more.  Several have over scale wooden doors with ornate knockers or smaller doors built into them.  Some are topped with beautiful flowers crawling below their roofs, and yet others sit vacant and alone.

Pedro de Heredia was a Spanish conquistador, founder of the city of Cartagena de Indias

Pedro de Heredia was a Spanish conquistador, founder of the city of Cartagena de Indias.

University of the Arts located in the Walled City.

University of the Arts located in the Walled City.

Beautiful Colored buildings inside the old city.

Beautiful Colored buildings inside the old city.

Tons of flowers grow on and around the buildings.

Tons of flowers grow on and around the buildings.

Many buildings had large wooden doors with smaller doors built inside and large knockers.

Many buildings had large wooden doors with smaller doors built inside and large knockers.

Church dome at sunset.

Church dome at sunset.

Another beautiful dome at sunset.

Another beautiful dome at sunset.

Love these buildings sprouting with blossoms.

Love these buildings sprouting with blossoms.

Matt, Me, Teo, Mia, and Jon. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Matt, Me, Teo, Mia, and Jon. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Playing with the shadows.

Playing with the shadows. Photo credit Jon Wright.

As we made our way to the parade route the crowds great louder.  We saddled up to the crowded barrier and waited for the parade to start.  Evidently, Columbians like to celebrate with foam.  They sell foam canisters for 5,000 pesos and everyone is fair game.  It did not take long before we were covered in a soap type foam that dissolved into a bit of a sticky mess.  Nothing mattered, everyone was fair game and everyone got hit or sprayed, many times.

Oh ya, this tastes good! Photo credit: Jon Wright

Oh ya, this tastes good! Photo credit: Jon Wright

There is a parade in the back ground. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

There is a parade in the back ground. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Mia and Jon have been foamed.

Mia and Jon have been foamed.

The parade started and captured our attention.  It was a beautiful display of costumes, music, beauty contestants, culture, and history.  Many men dress up in female costumes which is part of their heritage.  There were also many men dressed as woman celebrating LGBT we assume since they were out in full force too.

This woman was so beautiful, I believe she is a Miss Columbia contestant.

This woman was so beautiful, I believe she is a Miss Columbia contestant.

I loved this trio.

I loved this trio.

He danced his way across Cartagena in those heels.

He danced his way across Cartagena in those heels.

Still smiling at the end of the parade. White flakes are foam.

Still smiling at the end of the parade. White flakes is foam.

So many bright and beautiful costumes. Loved the yellow.

So many bright and beautiful costumes. Loved the yellow.

Pasties covered their

Pasties covered their “private parts” dancing through town.

Little people with large heads bobbing on down the road.

Little people with large heads bobbing on down the road.

They carried these huge floral arrangements throughout the parade.

They carried these huge floral arrangements throughout the parade.

Just had to show you on fun cross dresser.

Just had to show you on fun cross dresser.

Enjoying the view from the top of the wall. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Enjoying the view from the top of the wall. Photo Credit: Jon Wright

Snagged a front row spot and loving it. Photo credit Jon Wright.

Snagged a front row spot and loving it. Photo credit Jon Wright.

Love this little beauty!

Love this little beauty!

Mia and I enjoying a non foam moment

Mia and I enjoying a non foam moment

Interesting Colombian Facts:

  • Colombian pesos are confusing and should therefor drop three zeros.
  • Colombians are hard workers and have an entrepreneurial spirit.
  • Foam does not taste very good.
  • Parade costumes are the most elaborate and elegant ones I’ve seen.
  • The heels they wear (both men and women) are ridiculously high!
  • The streets of Columbia are very clean with little litter.

Mercado Público: “The” Fresh Fruit, Veggie, Meat, & Fish Market

Colombians are very entrepreneurial people selling fruits, vegetables, hats, tchotchkes, clothing, services, cardboard and just about anything.  There are pop up stands, rolling carts, booths, small stores, and large stores selling your heart’s desire.  Do you need a Mercado Público?

Fruits & veggies can be bought on the street by various vendors selling them off push carts or bikes with carts.  This allows them to  easily move their goods around to high traffic areas.

The largest food market we have encountered is called Mercado Público.  The market fills a two story building that takes up the entire block.  And in fact, it is so large that it spills out onto the neighboring streets.  Matt, Mia (from “Itchy Foot”), and I visited this market one morning which was absolutely overwhelming to all of our senses.

We visited the outside fish market first.  There are lot of fisherman selling a variety of fish that have been cut and cleaned for you.  You could get a great fish, if you knew what you were looking at and could put up with the assault on your nose.

Entering the two story building on the first floor you see that it is divided into two sections for fish and meat. We decided to continue to torture our noses by finishing up the fish area.

As we completed the fish section, we crossed over to the meat section which has all meats except chicken.  Where the fish attacked our sense of smell, the meat besieged our vision!  I get it, I eat meat and meat comes from animals.  I am not a vegetarian, but I do not eat red meat (for health reasons).  But, seeing the meat market almost made me change my ways.

We did not make the entire round as you’ve seen one pig’s head and foot you’ve seen them all.  We moved upstairs to the fruit and veggie market which was far more pleasant to see and smell.  In fact, some of it was mouth watering to be around!

In addition to food, you can also buy some pets.  We found a few vendors selling birds in the main building and then stumbled across the pet store street.  In this area, they group like vendors together to make it easier for shoppers.

STREET SECTIONS:

  • pet street
  • hardware street
  • fabric street
  • auto street

Truck of Columbia

Bienvenido a Columbia Sugar Shack

Welcome to Columbia Sugar Shack! We were woke up at 0830, after 4 hours of sleep, because were ready to get in the marina and see Santa Marta, Columbia.  The marina instructed us to head to E dock which is the first dock you see at the entrance to the marina. The winds were light but it seemed like they were blowing from all different directions.  We typically like to be nose into the wind for the optimum wind flow inside. The staff instructed us to go stern in which Matt expertly accomplished. No easy task as our neighbor’s dinghy was tied to the side of his boat in the middle of the slip.

Sugar Shack in E-Dock next to the dinghy.

Sugar Shack in E-Dock next to the dinghy.

We secured the boat to the dock and headed to the office to check in.  The marina provides an agent who helps you with the clearance process.  However, since it was Saturday the agent was not working, so we supplied the necessary paper work and turned over our passports.

Everything is sophisticated and secure here at the marina.  Your fingerprint gives you access to the bathrooms, showers, and the dock gate.  We did a cursory look around the marina, which includes a small mini market with snacks, soda, beer, and some chandlery items.  There is a large outdoor gathering space, a small laundry area, captain’s quarters with AC, TV and wifi, men’s and women’s showers and an office.  The entire space is very clean and pretty.

Marina Santa Marta - we are in E-Dock as you enter the marina.

Marina Santa Marta – we are in E-Dock as you enter the marina.

Next we decided to explore the town of Santa Marta.  Just about everything can be found off the main road, Calle 22.  Streets with “calle” run perpendicular to the waterfront and streets with “Carrera” are parallel.

We quickly found an ATM so we could get local currency. Columbia uses the Colombian peso and the exchange rate is about 3000 pesos to $1 U.S. dollar.  After you get $200 from the ATM you feel rich because their money is in the millions.  This image is 523, 000 pesos or about $174.00.

This is 523,000 pesos or $174.

This is 523,000 pesos or $174.

Pesos use a lot of zeros-which makes it really confusing when purchasing goods. I know my numbers, but not into the millions.

50 Million Pesos. Lots of Zeros!

50 Million Pesos. Lots of Zeros!

To make it even more confusing, they have several denominations that have old and new versions in circulation. For example, the 5,000 peso and the 2,000 pesos below:

Old and new denominations of the 5000 and 2000 bills.

Old and new denominations of the 5000 and 2000 bills.

We came across a HUGE store called Exito that was part Walmart, Target, and Vons.  It was overwhelming, while at the same time clean, organized, and well stocked.  We roamed around a little bit more and found another market called Carulla Market which was like a mini Trader Joe’s. All the fruits and veggies were lined up neat in a row and the shelves were well stocked.

Typical beer run.  The employees thought we were crazy wanting 8 cases of beer or (ocho cajas de cerveza).  They kept thinking we wanted 8 six packs of beer.  After a lot of pointing and reaffirming, they got more cases from the back and loaded us up.  The cashier then questioned us a lot, but finally rung up the order, then the security guard stopped us and had to radio in to his supervisor.  Crazy Americans!  And what they don’t know is this is just to get us started.  We are loading up before the San Blas islands. Beer here is $0.66 per beer.

Matt carrying his loot away. 8 Cases of Beer.

Matt carrying his loot away. 8 Cases of Beer.

On the way back to the boat, we passed by Barry (“Adventures of an Old Sea Dog“) and he told us about an impromptu happy hour.  Cruisers buy beers from the mini market for 2500 pesos and meet at the gathering space.  It was great to see several other boaters that we’ve met in Curacao, Bonaire and Aruba.

Do you remember us talking about these boats?

  • Kattimi,
  • White Shadow
  • Kokopeli
  • Nomad
  • Itchy Foot?

They are all here in Columbia!  We’ve also recognized several other boats from previous anchorages but we don’t know them as well yet – give us time.

Really pretty sunset from this spot, I could get used to these sunsets in Colombia!

Sunset from the Marina.

Sunset from the Marina.

Santa Marta is considered pretty safe and has a decent public transit system.  In addition there are a ton of taxis running around that can probably get you anywhere in town for about 3000-5000 pesos.  Food and beverages are pretty darn inexpensive so it offsets the price of the marina which is nice.

Mia on “Itchy Foot” and I decided to start a walking club.  We meet each morning at 0700 to explore the shores.  Matt decided to join us one day as we were heading to the top of a mountain that he wanted to see.  We had heard it was a mile to the trail and a mile up the mountain, but as it turned out, we walked up and over to the other city which became a 7.2 mile walk!  We ventured up over Cerro Ziruma (a national park split in half by the road we walked on) into Santa Marta Central.

Top of hill looking down at Santa Marta Central - we walked down to the city which is on the water's edge.

Top of hill looking down at Santa Marta Central – we walked down to the city which is on the water’s edge.

This gorgeous wall lined a small section of the street on our way over the hill.

Yep, I climbed on this beautiful wall.

Yep, I climbed on this beautiful wall.

We ran into several colorful buses and trucks:

Very festive trucks and buses.

Very festive trucks and buses.

And we’ve seen beautiful architecture and artwork which represents many artists in Columbia.

Typical downtown mural.

Typical downtown mural.

Pretty church downtown.

Pretty church downtown.

Loved this wooden door against the tattered building.

Loved this wooden door against the tattered building.

It is wicked hot with little breeze so Matt put up our cabin cover. We officially feel like white trash but at least it’s cooler inside.

Bringing down the neighborhood with our tarp!

Bringing down the neighborhood with our tarp!