Discovering Bonaire-North Part II

Heading to the North side of the island we passed several homes that took advantage of the abundance of cactus that grew on the island.  They have two main types of cactus and they are used for very different reasons.  The towering Kadushi Cactus is more like a multi-trunk tree with thousands of needles and is now being harvested for the Cadushy Distillery. The other cactus is the Yatu Cactus which is also tall, sometimes as much as 30 feet, but has fewer needles, and is often used to make fences.  This picture below shows the towering Kadushi Cactus to the right and the Yatu cactus used to make fences.


There are over 80 designated dive spots on Bonaire and Klein Bonaire with almost 80% being snorkel/dive spots.  One of the most famous is the 1,000 step dive spot where you have to hike down many steps to the beach.  Not sure why it is called 1,000 steps when there are only about 72 steps – maybe because it feels like 1,000 steps when you have all your gear and tank on your back when you hike back up to your car?  But either way it is truly beautiful.  We will have to come back here to snorkel for sure.

View from the top of 1,000 steps.

View from the top of 1,000 steps.

Wayne enjoying the view.

Wayne enjoying the view.

Welcoming committee at the beginning of 1,000 steps.

Welcoming committee at the beginning of 1,000 steps.


Eddy drove by 4 caves and told us that Flow gives tours when he is on island.  He is currently showing Bill Gates around so he is unavailable until later in June.  So, we will have to catch up with him later to do this tour.

We turned inland and explored Lagun Goto Go omeer that borders the Washington Slagbaai National Park.  In fact you can see the park across from the lagoon including the tallest mountain Brandaris which is 241 meters tall (or 748′).  Local farmers build stick fences (think beaver dams) to keep the donkeys out and away from the Flamingos (evidently they like to chase them).


We quickly arrived in the town of Rincon which is the oldest settlement on Bonaire and the cradle of the island’s cultural heritage.  This 16th century village also possess great national treasures, the only distillery on island, and hosts countless festivals and activities.    As we entered Rincon, we were greeted by a welcome sign to the island’s only distillery.  Eddy asked if we were interested in stopping and we quickly answered yes.  The Cadushy Distillery makes rum, vodka, whiskey, liqueurs, and the world’s only cactus tequila.  Everything is created at this local distillery including bottling and labeling.  They currently produce between 15-20,000 bottles of liquor a year, which is very impressive for this small operation.  They cannot export their liquor outside of Bonaire, but some of their products are sold online in Europe.  The distillery is a small space around a beautiful courtyard with many places to sit and relax.  Many birds, lizards and small creatures can be found in this area.  They also had this really unique tree called Calbas Tree which has fruit that grows right on the trunk and branches of the tree.

Yeah, another rum factory!

Yeah, another rum factory!

Pretty little yellow bellied bird sang to us for a while.

Pretty little yellow bellied bird sang to us for a while.

Picture perfect opportunity.

Picture perfect opportunity.

Calabash Tree growing fruit on its trunk.

Calabash Tree growing fruit on its trunk.

The six liqueurs are created based on the Dutch Antilles islands.  Each flavor represents that particular islands history.  Read here for details.  They make two types of rum. One that is distilled for 2.5 years and one that is distilled for 5 years.   We were told that the owner started putting aside a few bottles for a private collection to age them longer than 2.5 years.  When his wife did inventory a few years later she decided that his private collection was too big and put several of the bottles up for sale.  Now, they sell a few bottles a year to keep the private collection down to a what she thinks is a “reasonable quantity”.  After the brief tour, we headed to the tasting bar where they gave us samples of each of the rums, the vodka, whiskey and Cadushy Bonaire liqueur.  As I stepped away to talk to our tour mates, Selena and Maria, Matt and Wayne continued talking to our tour guide and before I knew it they were buying a $50 bottle of 2.5 year rum.  I have to admit it was tasty and will be a nice addition to our island rum collection.

Distillery in the background and all of their liquors.

Distillery in the background and all of their liquors.


The last stop on our northern tour was the Seru Largu (Santa Barbara Republiek). Seru Largu means “large hill” and from the top, you can see the capital city of Kralendijk and the little island of Klein Bonaire. There is a monument at the site which reads in the Papiamentu language as “Kristu Ayera Awe Semper” which means “Christ, Yesterday, Today and Forever”.  Many locals drive to the bottom of the hill and use this area for exercise.  It was a little scary to me as the roads had no sidewalks and no clear place for pedestrians, but evidently it did not matter.  It was a true sight to see and one that we will certainly come back to soon.

This is a heavenly place.

This is a heavenly place.


At the close of our tour, I had made arrangements with Selena and Maria to do a short video for me.  I had asked them to speak to my dad and tell him to come visit me on this wonderful Dutch island.  Of course, they had to do it in Dutch!  I only understood about 10% so they could have told him to sod off, but I am sure they didn’t!  There is something to be said for being on a Dutch island when you are part Dutch. I had always wanted to go to Holland and being here makes it even more intriguing.  But for now, I will lap up all the Dutch treats, traditions, food, and language I can on the Dutch Antilles islands.

Discovering Bonaire-South Part I

We had decided to take a combination tour that would show us the North and South side of the island.  We selected Voyager Bonaire as our tour company.  Our tour guide, Eddy was very informative, funny, and totally down to earth – someone we could certainly hang out with at the local pub.  We packed a cooler, hopped in the dinghy and headed to shore for our 8:45 am pick up.  As we climbed into the air conditioned van, we met our tour mates, Selena and Maria who are from the Netherlands (they speak Dutch and English).

We started our tour heading South and the first stop was the Salt Flats.  Salt is one of Bonaire’s main industries so it is not surprising that the tour guide stopped at the flats.  They have several pits (evaporation ponds) that they slowly fill with water.  Within a week, the combination of the brine shrimp and bacteria in the ponds turn the water purple (a true purple color), as the water cools and the wind blows, foam forms on the side of the ponds and I swear it jiggles with the wind!  As the water evaporates, it leaves behind industrial salt that is not edible at this stage.  They are huge salt crystals which are moved into piles that form gorgeous white mountains.

Salt Flats week 2 turn the water purple

Salt Flats week 2 turn the water purple

Foam caused from bacteria bi-product

Foam caused from bacteria bi-product

Cool salt crystal

Cool salt crystal

Young magazine video shoot with Mustang at Salt Flats

Young magazine video shoot with Mustang at Salt Flats

Back in the 1800’s slaves used to manage the salt flats by hand, but now they have a huge conveyor belt and heavy machinery that does the work.

After we left the Salt Flats we came across the first set of “slave huts.”  They had three sets that were marked by color: red, white, and orange.  Basically, as the salve ships came in to port, they were directed to one of the three areas to drop off the slaves.  Eddy told us that 2-3 people slept in each hut but he believes the number to be closer to 7-8.  They were remarkably small and bare.  Hard to believe that one person slept in each one let alone 7-8.

Slave huts

Slave huts

Matt at door and me swing him thru window

Matt at door and me swing him thru window

As we drove around the southern tip of the island we came upon Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary, which is one of four areas in the world where Flamingos breed.  The Sanctuary is located on the vast salt pans at the southern end of the island and home to over ten thousand flamingos.  Unfortunately we could not see very many from the road, but I was able to capture a baby and its mama.

Mama and baby Flamingo

Mama and baby Flamingo

The Willemstoren Lighthouse is still operational and warns traveling boats of the many reefs on the south side of the island.  The ruin to the right used to be the home of the caretaker of the lighthouse.  It has not been maintained well, but the basic structure is still standing.

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Lighthouse caretaker house

Lighthouse caretaker house

The last stop on our southern island tour was Lac Bay which is home to Jibe City, the windsurfing school.  It is a totally laid back atmosphere, casual, easy going group of people that have created this amazing community to teach people how to windsurf, SUP and more.  In addition to the school, they have a restaurant, massage area, sun bathing area, free wifi, and small store.  This is definitely a place we could hang out for a few days.  The professional instructors are champions.  In fact, Bonaire is home to four of the world’s top windsurfers, so you learn from the best.  Lac Bay is only a few feet deep and is a few miles to the closest reef so beginners have a huge area to practice on without any danger.  We met several of the champions as Eddy seemed to know everyone.

Jibe City Windsurfing Sails

Jibe City Windsurfing Sails

Windsurfers learning at Lac Bay

Windsurfers learning at Lac Bay

​Stay tuned for more on the Northern part of our tour.

Dushi Island

As we explored the island we kept seeing a lot of stores, signs, and shirts with “dushi” on it – “Dushi Dive” “Dushi Bonaire” and all sorts of other “Dushi” things.  How weird.  In America, “Dush” is a derogatory word.  So, I had to ask the lady a local what “dushi” meant and to my surprise she said it was a term of endearment, meaning “sweet/sweetheart.”  Well now that makes a lot more sense!  Still, I do not think I can bring myself to buying a shirt, hat or trinket with “dushi” written on it – or can I?


Bonaire is a quiet, charming, and pretty clean island with about 19,000 inhabitants.  The government has determined that they will only grow to the size of 30-35k inhabitants.  Bonaire is part of the Netherland’s Antilles, with its sister Islands, Curacao and Aruba.  Other Antillean islands include St. Maarten, Saba, and Statia.  They capital Kralendijk (pronounced crawlen dike) which is the main port and the only mooring area.  The entire island is only 12 square miles and the inhabitants only occupy about 5% of the island. Another 25% of the island is the National Park.  The two main industries are salt and tourism even though they do not really cater to boaters.

Being the third best dive spot in the world makes diving a huge part of their tourism business, but they also have a booming business in snorkeling, windsurfing, and bird watching.  In addition, you can enjoy parrot, donkey, and flamingo sanctuaries.  Windsurfing takes place on Lac Bay, a large lagoon on the windward side of the island which is protected from seas by a low lying reef.  The depth is only about 1 meter and it is 2 miles from shore to the reef which makes a large protected area for beginners to learn how to windsurf.  Professional windsurfers run the windsurfing school called Jibe City. Bonaire is home to the top 4 windsurfers in the world so you can learn from the best!.

Jibe City Windsurfing School

Jibe City Windsurfing School

There is only one stop light on island and it is not used for traffic.  It actually says STOP FOR PIZZA.  Love it.

Stop For Pizza

Stop For Pizza

There are 12 massive windmills on the North Eastern side of the island and they each provide 1 megawatt of energy.  The island however, uses about 22 megawatts of energy so they built a plant which can generate up to 24 megawatts of energy during the time the windmills cease to provide their share (September-October).

A tour is definitely in order to help us get the lay of the land so to speak.  It appears that most of the site seeing places require a car so we might have to look into that as well.  Places of interest include Washington Slagbaai National Park, parrot sanctuary, donkey sanctuary, Rincon, Salt Flats, Cave tour, Cadushi Factory, Blow Hole, Salt Flats,  Famingo Sanctuary, Slave Houses, Seru Largu, Lighthouse and ruin and the dive sites including 1,000 steps, pink beach, Klein Bonaire, and more.

Currency is the U.S. dollar even though it is a Dutch island.  I believe some places still take the guilder (sometimes called the florin) which is about 1.78N to the $1. We used guilder while we were in St. Maarten a few times.

The main languages in Bonaire are Dutch, English, Spanish, and Papiamentu which is a mix of languages that started with the slaves who did not understand, Dutch, English, or Spanish.  A small glossary of words can be found here.

Bonaire is really flat, dry and full of cactus which is very different from the Caribbean islands we are used to which are filled with mountains and lush terrain.  Most people think that Bonaire is a volcanic island but we learned it is really a tectonic island (meaning the plates in the ocean push up the island over time).  But to me, when you look at the island it looks like a choral island as it is filled with choral everywhere.