Tag Archives: norsand

Managing the Maintenance Part II

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This is Part II of our maintenance list while on the hard at the Norsand Boatyard.  Please see “Managing the Maintenance Part I” for our work on our cross beam, sail drives, rudder arm, and props.

Here is a list of the items we worked on that are mentioned in this blog post:

  • New Scuppers
  • Paint Bow Peak Lockers (inside storage area)
  • Polishing Stainless Counter Tops (Bench)
  • Snap Shackles for Main Sheets
  • Cleaning the Interior Cushions
  • Miscellaneous Maintenance
    • Sail and Canvas Repair
    • Propspeed (Saildrives & Props)
    • Finsulate around Rudder posts
    • Window/Hatch removal of velcro
    • Teak Cleaning
    • Relabeling the clutches

Making New Scuppers

We have 17 scuppers (drains) at the bottom of the bridge deck. At some point, one of them fell off and we have not been able to find any replacements.  So, Matt decided to make his own.  

We purchased PVC white (1220mm x 300mm x3mm) plastic from Cambrian Plastics ($37USD).

Matt started by making a mold out of Plaster of Paris.  He made end plates to match the shape of the scupper and used scrap formica around the end plates.

Matt heated a cut piece of the PVC plastic in the oven at 200 degrees for 15-20 minutes.  He then took the warm piece, wrapped it around his mold, clamped it, and let it cool for 20-30 minutes.

We used a band saw or jig saw to cut out the shape, then sanded, drilled the holes, and created our new scuppers.

After we made our surplus, a friend told us about Tenob which makes smaller scuppers.

Repaint Bow Peak Lockers

The forward bow peak lockers are used for storing our spare sails, bean bags, passerelle, tons of fenders, SUP, folding chairs, and more.  

The interior paint of these two storage areas has been chipping off for years. 

It is only a cosmetic issue but it is one that has been bothering me for awhile.

The Long Process

Once the bow peak was empty, I used a metal scraper to remove all of the big flaky bits.  This process was a loud, dirty job.

I got out the power sander with attached vacuum to smooth out the walls, ceiling, floor and “V-berth.” 

It is probably 10-15 degrees hotter inside the hole.  Wearing a full suit, goggles and mask makes it seem even worse.

Next, I wiped down everything with soap and water twice. 

Then we pressure washed the entire bow peak with warm water and simple green and let it dry over night.

Matt mixed the two-part paint, Jotun Jotamasic 90 (3 parts A to 1 part B) and brought it to me.

It is specially designed for areas where optimum surface preparation is not possible or required and provides long-lasting protection in environments with high corrosivity.

The paint has a pot life of 2 hours so I had to work fast and in small increments. I started with the hardest to reach part first, the “V berth.”  It is super difficult to reach and requires full body contortion. 

But 4-hours later the entire bow locker was done.

The next day I painted a second coat and we let it out-gas for 7 days. 

Talk about a world of difference in appearance.

I also repeated the entire process on the port bow peak which was in a lot worse condition but now looks beautiful.

Stainless Countertop Polish

We love our stainless counter tops!  It does take a little more maintenance than standard counter tops but they look so beautiful!

Our countertops got marked up over the last 4 years, despite our careful management. We are not sure what caused these marks but it could be citrus, oil, salt, bleach, hard water).

We spent 4 hours masking and protecting the entire salon.  

An easy polish by Absolute Stainless and they look brand new.

We clean it twice a week with two products. 

For standard cleaning we use Weiman Stainless Steel Wipes (Amazon).  The cost ranges between $12-20 per container.

For corrosion or harder areas we use “Chemico Cleaning Paste” cleansing paste $7 (4 USD).  This paste was recommended by Absolute Stainless (the company who installed our counter tops).  

Snap Shackles

Our main sheets control our large main sail and are under a lot of pressure during a sail.  We have 16m double braid tied to a Harken Black Magic Air Becket block.  Catana custom made this block to be connected to a Wichard HR Snap Shackle (80mm) at $150USD x 2.

Our snap shackles were original to the boat and had some wear on the center clip which causes a weak point.  We had RH Precision fabricate new stainless steel pins that connected the snap shackle to the block.

More Cleaning

Cushion Cleaning: The inside of the boat got very dusty and dirty with all of the work in the yard.  So, I decided it was important to clean our interior upholstery.  We have Macrosuede fabric (color Ash) on the salon settee and the cabin benches. 

We hired JAE Cleaning Services in Whangarei to clean them for us. It was a bit of a chore getting the cushions to them, but worth it to use their “drying room.”

Of course it was raining on the day we had to transport the cushions. We wrapped each cushion in plastic to prevent it from getting soaked.

It was like playing a game of Tetris trying to fit the cushions into the car in one load.

Miscellaneous Maintenance:

Canvas:  We brought Kim (Masterpieces in Canvas) to repair and update a few pieces for us:

  • Kim made 3 new Sauleda window shades
  • Modified 2 helm back rests to accommodate the new arch
  • Made a new back rest cover for our new cockpit back rest.
  • Repaired the 2 side rain shades (put support around each snap and added velcro to hold corner when rolling up
  • Made covers for both of our bow princess seats to protect our new varnish
  • Repaired the aft shade had a small tear near the baton
  • Fixed a few small tears on the dinghy chaps
  • Replaced the top section of the starboard helm seat that got stained
  • Made 2 new helm covers to accommodate our new helm extensions and pods
  • Made a new cover for the cockpit back rest

Genoa: Roger from North Sails repaired our genoa which had a small tear near the bolt rope.  He also made a backup “Sweetie” patch for our dinghy.

Bottoms Up”

We burnished our Coppercoat which activates the copper.  We also added vinyl (from Finsulate) around our rudder posts where we once had antifoul bottom paint (which did not last).

Norsand applied Propspeed to our saildrives and props.  Matt greased the prop gears and changed all the zincs.

We added “Finsulate” a type of vinyl to the area around the rudder post.  Coppercoat can not be applied near our aluminum rudder post so added a vinyl.  

Good comparison between the vinyl around the saildrive and the rudderpost.

Each of these steps are to help prevent growth on the bottom of the boat.

Rudders

The rudders are all cleaned up and have a new bearings so it was time to install them.  The install went smoothly and took all of 10 minutes to do both rudders.

Teak Cleaning

The teak on the sugar scoops and in the cockpit were absolutely filthy.  We had dozens of workers coming and going, fluids spilled, and polish over-sprayed on them

I gave them a good scrub with teak cleaner.  I would prefer to oil or stain them but Matt likes them raw.  Perhaps next time I clean them I will out some oil on them.

Clutch Labels

We have close to 20 clutches on the boat.  Most of the clutches have labels dating back to 2001.  These labels were in both English and French and were very hard to read.

Of course, we know what the clutches do without the labels.  However, it is always a good idea to have nice, readable labels for others that might be assisting on the boat.

So, on a rainy day I took it upon myself to scrape the old labels off and put new labels on.

Lastly we washed and polished of the boat which made her all shiny and pretty.

Be sure to read about our brand new solar arch – it is super sexy!

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.

Be sure to read Managing the Maintenance Part I blog post.

We were in the Norsand boat yard working on repairs and maintenance items from November 2025 to January 2026.

Brrr….The Air Con is On

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We have “managed” through the hot tropics of French Polynesia, Fiji, and Tonga.  However, we really struggled through the intense heat in the Marshall Islands, Tuvalu, and Kiribati.  So, we decided it was time for air con (air conditioning).

Our friend, Dan on Sel Citron told us about some very reasonable aircon units made in China.  These units are the same units provided to Mabru sold by Hopewell.

We were originally going to order the units direct from Hopewell (via Fanny Zhu). 

However, in talking with our electrician Matthew Duckett at Cleigh Ltd. we discovered we could order the same (2) units, (3) pumps, vents, and ducting through him for the same price.  

We ordered (2) 12V DC Air Conditioners from Matthew at Cleigh who then ordered them from Hopewell in China (Mabru). 

One unit is 12,000BTU and will cool the main salon.  The other unit is 7,000BTU and will cool the starboard master cabin.

We also ordered a variety of grills and ducting (which we heard were hard to source in NZ)

I will break down the two units by location:

12k Unit (Salon)

125mm:  2 outlet vents at corners of the settee (where existing fans are).  The main unit will live under the settee and the return air will be at feet level. 

Grills: wood square outlets. However, we ordered a white round and black round as a backup (f the ‘squares’ don’t fit).  

Matt and Matthew putting the salon AC in place under the settee.

AC Pedestal (stand)

Matt built a pedestal for the salon AC unit.  The floor was a little uneven and we needed the unit to be stable.  So, he used his carpentry skills to make the bench, then he sealed it, painted it, and secured it to the floor and sides of the settee.  This unit will not move!

7k Unit (master bedroom)

100mm: 2 outlets over the bed.  Need 100mm splitter to 100 vents (most likely ABS, but also ordered wood just in case install location has to change).

The return air most likely ABS (but ordered wood and aluminum). 

The actual unit will need to be mounted behind the ceiling false panels.  This requires a holding bracket.  

Holding Bracket in the Master Cabin

Matt created a mock up of the smaller aircon unit, true to size, to help design the holding bracket. 

We brought in Premik (from Norsand) to create the brackets out of fiberglass.

Everything was removed from the cabin so it could be properly protected.

Premik now has full access to sanding and fiber glassing in a contained space. 

We were kicked out of our bedroom for over a month as we finished this project.

Accessories for the Aircon

Matt spent the better part of the holiday break running hoses and cables for both units. 

Matt drilled three thru holes (holes in the boat)  for each unit for water intake, outtake, and exhaust.

Matthew Duckett helped Matt add a new “bus”, move our existing “bus” and run a lot of wires and cables. 

He did some excellent boat yoga to get into these very tight places.

Final Installation

Once the brackets were made the units were installed. 

Then we ran the wires and hoses and made the thru hulls.  The last part was connecting it all and adding freon. 

We had to wait until we splashed and were in the water to add the freon.

We hired Jock from Big Fridge to help us with the freon.  Jock added freon while we were berthed at Port Nikau. And we are up and running.

Now we are ready for the heat and humidity of Indonesia and Malaysia. 

Contacts:

  • Cleigh Ltd: Matthew Duckett, matthew.duckett@cleagh.com
  • Hopewell: http://hopewellchina.en.alibaba.com/, Fanny Zhu: hehebiz@163.com
  • Lusty Blundell: https://www.lusty-blundell.co.nz/ 

Pricing

As of November 2025 the pricing was as follows (USD):

  • 12V DC 12K BTU (Z12DC12) $1,380
  • Pump $95
  • 12V DC 7K BTU  (Z07DC12) $1,280
  • Pump $95
  • Various Grills/Vents in wood, metal, black, white ranges from $5-$20 each
  • 7m of air ducting ranges from $10.50-$12
  • Various hoses, connectors, clamps, elbows were purchased from Cleigh Ltd (Lusty Blundell)
  • Shipping for 2 units $895

Our blogs run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We worked on the Air Con from Nov. 2025-Jan.2026.

We will power our air con units with our new solar panels – check out the blog post.

Solar Arch Installation

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After months of planning, two test fits, and countless discussions, we were ready to install our new solar arch.

Be sure to read Part I “Solar Arch Design & Fitting” before you read this blog post.

After our fitting, Phil, our stainless fabricator, took our partially made arch back to his workshop.  He had another 2 weeks of work to do including:

  • installing the “ladders” on both sides of the arch
  • connecting the truss to the arch
  • adding support tubes
  • making all of the access points for our lights, antennae’s, and equipment
  • create the mounting brackets

Once he was done with his work, Phil will sanded and polished the entire piece.

Shine Like a Diamond

The next step was electro polishing at Spiraweld in Auckland.  This was tricky as the arch is so large it makes driving long distances at fast speeds difficult.

What is electropolishing?

It is an electrochemical process that removes small peaks and burrs from the surface of the metal part generally improving its smoothness and giving it a shiny appearance. The process is a form of electrolysis, the acid electrolyte acting as a conduit which removes metal ions from the surface of the stainless steel part.

Electropolishing will enhance corrosion resistance and will make it look bright, shiny and ultraclean.  It will also prevent corrosion which will reduce our cleaning.

The Damage

Spiraweld had asked us to cut the arch in half to prevent damage to it.  We knew this might be a possibility but we had really hoped they could dip it as one piece. 

Phil, our fabricator was there and cut it in half to make it easier to dip in the bins.  So imagine our surprise when we got a call that the arch was dropped and damaged!

Evidently, the leg of the arch hit the side of the bin in multiple places. For F@CK sake!  We had been so careful for the past few months in transport.

I know it does not look like much the tube is 75 mil in diameter and 1.6mm thick.  It is big, but light.  Dents like this will compromise the strength of the leg and cannot just be bumped out and polished.

Phil ended up cutting it off and sleeved it to make it stronger than the original.  Seriously more time, more money. Unfortunately, we will always be able to see the “wave” in the stainless.  It is impossible to get it out completely without completely redoing the entire leg.

To add insult to injury, we had another problem.  Phil accidentally shattered the bottom part of one panel when he was attaching it to its plate.  This has not been a good few days for us.

INSTALLATION DAY

The BIG day has arrived!  We were super anxious for today after 4 missed installation dates and all of the damage.  Phil arrived at 5:15am and we got to work.  We had to drill holes on two of the four remaining panels.  Great way to amp up the stress levels as you put a drill close to your brand new glass solar panels!

Next we began running mouse lines to help get some of the wires through.  It is super tricky to run the lines as there are 90 degree turns and false holes to avoid.

Culham Engineering sent the crane promptly at 0800.  By 8:20am we had our baby flying above the masts. 

We have two people on each side with lines controlling the movement as the crane lifts it above our mast and behind our boat.

We use a ratchet line to pull the arch together (side to side).  We test fit it first, mark the boat, pull the arch back and start drilling holes.

It is horrible to watch someone drill holes into your boat – but what can you do?

Conclusion

Nobody got hurt, the boat was not damaged and the arch is somewhat installed.  Good.

It took 3.5 hours with the crane and an additional 2 hours with Phil.  We had the bolts in but were waiting for proper backing plates to permanently secure the bolts.

Issue:  We thought the front legs would bolt into the engine compartments (behind the bulk head).  But to our surprise the bolts split the bulk head.  So, one bolt was inside the engine room and the other bolt was on the other side of the bulk head.  The only way to reach that bolt is to remove the ceiling panels from the master cabin and office.  

Yet, another project.  

It took us 4 additional days to fabricate new backing plates, get new (shorter) bolts for the ones in front of the bulk head, make 2 new vertical legs (for additional support), and use sika flex to secure everything together.

We still have the ratchet lines and our topping lift attached to the arch to secure it.  These remained in place until everything we properly assembled.

It took us an additional 2 weeks to complete the arch.  We had hire a scissor lift to finish running all of the wires and install of the additional equipment.

The solar arch installed while at anchor.

Matt designed it so well.  He followed the same lines of the bimini legs and the same curve of the bimini to make them two mimic eachother.

Contacts

Stainless Fabricator: Phil Waddell hardout98@icloud.com and his wife Joy Waddell joyw2@icloud.com. 

Phil is NOT interested in building another solar arch like ours (it was too big).  However, he is open to smaller arches and other stainless fabrication.

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events. 

Check out our last blog post on the solar arch design and fitting.

We started working with Phil in early November and had the fitting on 16 December 2025.