Tag Archives: tuvalu

Tuvalu, the Smallest Country in the World?

Tuvalu is situated in the South Pacific.  Southeast of the Marshall Islands and Kiribati and North of Fiji and New Zealand.  It is barely a spec on the world map.

Tuvalu is a fully independent island nation within the Commonwealth. 

The country consists of 3 reef islands and 9 atolls. The population is 10,643 (consensus 2022).  This makes it the 2nd least populous country in the world (behind the Vatican City).

A Disappearing Country

Tuvalu is a low-lying island nation and is extremely vulnerable to sea level rise.  The highest point is a mere 15′ above sea level making it one of the countries most threatened by climate change.

Rising sea levels not only push back its shorelines, but the encroaching salt water also erodes the country’s limited farmland. The sea’s warming temperatures also threaten surrounding marine life.

The country made international headlines in 2021 when then-foreign minister Simon Kofe delivered a speech to the United Nations while standing knee-deep in water.

Because there is not a significant amount of soil the country has to rely heavily on imports and fishing for food.

During our visit we got to witness their attempt to save their island. 

Australia and New Zealand invested close to $100 million to add 40 acres of land. A massive amount of machinery. It starts with dredging the lagoon, then filtering sand, creating enormous sand mounds, then filling huge sand bags.  They then use the sand bags to create barriers between the shore and lagoon (bottom photo).

Income Sources

The local government has several income sources. However, two of them are their largest revenue stream.

The first is from fishing licenses.  Like many other Pacific Nations, Tuvalu sells fishing licenses to other countries.  This gives international companies the rights to fish in the Tuvalu waters.  

The second source of revenue is from a digital source. The government owns the suffix .tv.  So their email and web addresses end in .tv.  For example, christine.mitchell@tuvalu.tv.

As a brilliant move, the government sold its .tv internet suffix to a Californian company.  This brings in several million dollars a year in continuing revenue.  The California company then sells the suffix to television broadcasters.

Many locals harvest copra or work on cargo ships and send money back to their families

We arrived in Tuvalu a few days after they christened their very 1st ATM!  Can you believe it?  This cash only country had no ATM.

Funafuti Marine Conservation

20% of the lagoon in Funafuti is a marine conservation area covering 33sq kilometers (12.74 sq. miles). 

The conservation area consists of reef, lagoon, and motus on the western side of the atoll (gray area in image). 

Many species of fish, coral, algae, and invertebrates call this area home including the endangered green sea turtle.

Tuvalu Airport

For being such a small country it has a really nice airport. 

The landing strip has been newly paved making it the nicest we’ve seen in years. 

Fiji Link flies three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday) to and from Fiji and Tuvalu.  It is a big event when the plane comes so we took the opportunity to watch it a few times.  

Children use the runway as a playground when in between flights.

WWII 

Thousands of U.S. troops were stationed in Tuvalu during WWII.  They used used Tuvalu as a launching place to attack the Japanese in Kiribati. 

It is not uncommon to find WWII remnants on the beaches and reefs in Funafuti the capital of Tuvalu.

Beginning in 1942, U.S. forces built airbases on the islands of Funafuti, Nanumea, and Nukufetau. The Funafuti airstrip is still in use.

The Navy built a sea port, a small hospital, PT boat base, a seaplane base and an airbase.

Interesting Websites

We managed to find the “town drunk” who was super jovial and willing to share his jug of vodka coke with Matt

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Tuvalu from April 18-25, 2025.

Check out Tuvalu on No Foreign Land: www.noforeignland.com/place/6056779874041856 

Can you believe we had a double steering failure on our passage from the Marshall Islands?

A Double Steering Failure

Matt and I were enjoying a lovely sail from the Marshall Islands to Kiribati.  About 55 hours into our 63 hour passage we noticed an issue with our starboard steering.  Yikes!  Our engine throttles are on starboard so we use starboard as our main helm and port as a “back up.”

The good news is that auto pilot is working ok and the port steering is working ok.  We were able to safely navigate through the Kiribati pass to the anchorage.  Matt jumped in the hole as soon as the engine cooled off.

What Type of Steering is on Sugar Shack

There are multiple types of steering on yachts: mechanical, hydraulic, electric, and electric hydraulic.  We have mechanical on our boat.

How does mechanical steering work?

The mechanical system is usually made up of a Rack-And-Pinion or Worm-And-Sector steering gear that is physically connected to the helm. When the steering wheel is rotated, this mechanical system also turns. These mechanical systems, in turn, drive a pitman arm that physically turns the wheels of the boat.

Which is the same as “Christine speak”

When you turn the starboard wheel it turns the “Steering Gear Box”. The steering gear box then turns the “Arm” which is also connected to the port steering box.  That in turn rotates our port and starboard “Rudder Arms” which turns the rudders which turns the boat.  It works the opposite way as well when you turn the port helm it turns the starboard steering.

I am sure there are more technical terms for this system, but hopefully I described it well enough for you to follow along.

What Happened?

Steering Gear Box:  We are not 100% sure what happened to the starboard steering box.  It could be age and regular wear and tear.  It also could be something else???  We tie off the wheel while at anchor to reduce movement of the boat.  Could this have been a problem??

Matt disengaged the steering box after a lot of struggle.  It is super heavy and located in an awkward position.

What we discovered was the following:

  • Water appears to have dripped from the either the compass or a seam into the gear box.  We will have to reseal the helm.
  • The bearings were shot and the balls were floating around
  • A lot of gunk was in and around the gears
  • One section of the gears was stripped

Temporary Fix

There is nothing we can do in Kiribati (where we are now) or Tuvalu (where we are going next).  But we can disconnect the starboard steering box so that we don’t do any more damage by using the port equipment.

Matt ordered (8) new bearings and (4) new seals.  It will take approximately 6-8 weeks to get to us from Germany.

What Else Happened?

A few days into our passage from Kiribati to Tuvalu we discovered another problem.  The wind had dropped to 5kts so we decided to drop the sails and motor.  Matt jumped in the engine room and  found a major problem.  The port rudder arm (tie rod) was broken at the attachment point.

You have got to be kidding!!!

We don’t know what happened, but the only way to fix it is to weld the stainless back together.  Obviously we can’t do that while underway.  Matt lashed the arm down to prevent further damage.

How Are We Able to Steer?

Auto pilot is located on the starboard helm.  He has been running great!  Auto turns the port gear box which turns the arm connecting the starboard and port helms.  The arm then turns the starboard tie rod / rudder arm which turns the starboard rudder.

Basically bypassing the two broken parts on both starboard and port.  Thank goodness for redundancy on a catamaran!

Repairs

There is not much we can do until we get to Savusavu, Fiji.  So, we are being super gentle with the boat and her steering.  Good news we have very light winds and moderate seas so there is not a lot of pressure on Auto Pilot or the rudders.

Stay tuned for repairs…

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We were under passage from the Marshall Islands to Kiribati, then Tuvalu, and then Fiji in mid to late April.

Be sure to read the good news about this passage here.

Voyage from Kiribati to Tuvalu

We plan each passage carefully with the hopes of having an “uneventful” passage. However, the voyage from the Marshall Islands to Kiribati to Tuvalu turned into a very “eventful” passages. 

On the first leg of our voyage, we lost our starboard steering gear box in route from the Marshall Islands to Kiribati.  This made our starboard helm, with the throttles, useless. 

On the second leg of our trip from Kiribati to Tuvalu we lost the port rudder arm (or tie rod). 

Let me back up…

The second leg of our voyage from Kiribati to Tuvalu was 702nm.  We anticipated a 6-7 day sail depending on weather. 

We were crossing the international dateline and the ICTZ which are known for strange weather patterns.  Normally, we would estimate a 700nm journey to take 5 days,.

The first 65 hours were beautiful conditions.  We had consistent winds above the beam with 1-2m seas coming at 8-9 second intervals.  We managed a 7.8kt boat speed throughout the first three days.

We had a beautifully bright and full moon to light up our nights.

And we had some delightful sunsets and sunrises

Even a few rainbows.

What Went Wrong?

We were pretty darn happy with our progress on the first half of this voyage.  This despite having one steering helm out of commission. 

However, on day 4 the winds died and shifted directly on our nose.  It was time to drop the sails and turn the iron engine on.  

Matt does a basic engine check prior to starting the engines. 

Starboard engine looked good (minus the steering gear box).  However, the port engine had a NEW problem.

The port rudder arm (tie rod) had disconnected at the attachment point.  This rendered our port rudder completely useless!

Seriously, the odds of having two unique steering issues fail on the same passage are highly unusual.

The good news is that Auto Pilot is working and able to steer the boat by bypassing the starboard gear box and the port rudder arm.  Not ideal by any means.  But we have relatively calm conditions which won’t further stress our “working” systems.

Passage Details

  • Total Time Travelled:  112 hours (5 days)
  • Total Miles Travelled: 760nm
  • Average Boat Speed: 6.5kt
  • Max Boat Speed 13.4kt
  • Total Motoring Hours: 46 (UGH!)

A few more gorgeous shots from our passage.

Voyage Shots

Voyage Shots

Although this was not an ideal passage, we made the best of it.  

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We sailed from Kiribati to Tuvalu mid-April 2025.

Did you read about the Bloodiest Battle of WWII?