Tag Archives: funafuti

Onward to Fiji

We spent a lovely week in Funafuti, Tuvalu.  But, it was time to make the journey south east towards Fiji. 

The forecast showed light winds, rain, and seas between 1-2 meters.  

Prior to leaving we filled up on duty free fuel diesel. 

Pacific Energy typically fuels 200 liter drums with their large nozzles.  These nozzles are too big for our jerry cans.  Our solution was to fill a 200 liter drum.  And then use a hand pump to transfer the fuel from the drum to our (10) jerry cans. 

We transported the (10) jerry cans across the street, down the beach, in the surf to the dinghy, and then on to the boat!

Passage to Fiji

We departed early on a Saturday morning.  We spent the first 5 hours motoring across the lagoon, out of the pass, and then down the eastern side of the island.

Day 1:  The first 24 hours were really calm. We had really light winds (4-6kts) and could not sail at all.  So, we motored for the first 24 hours.  

The night brought rain showers and squalls.  The days had sunshine and rainbows. 

However, Days 2-4 we had just enough wind to raise the main and genoa to full sail. The days were beautiful with full sunshine, blue skies, white puffy clouds and decent conditions. 

Yes, we could have used more wind, but with the boat “injured” it was best to have these light winds.

We wanted to go through the Somosomo Straight (between Vanua Levu and Taveuni) during the day.  However, we did not arrive until evening.  Lucky for us we had tracks and great charts. 

We lost the wind completely between the two islands and motored through the narrow channel.  We arrived to the Savusavu channel perfect timing around 0800.  

  • Traveled:  Funafuti, Tuvalu to Savusavu, Fiji
  • Distance Travelled: 561 nautical miles
  • Total Time at Sea:  97 hours (4 days)
  • Motoring Time:  37 hours (ouch)
  • Average Speed: 5.8 and Max Speed 11kt

Matt and I under passage

The top red arrow is Funafuti, Tuvalu.  We passed many tiny atolls and islands in route to Fiji including Niulakaita Island (green arrow). And we re heading to Savusavu, Fiji the black arrow.

Arriving Fiji

Now, the tricky part.  We need to maneuver the boat in the very narrow channel to the mooring.  We had a local cruiser on stand by with his dinghy and Copra Shed Marina sent their staff to assist as well.

Savusavu, Fiji channel

Savusavu, Fiji channel

Matt was able to align the boat with a mooring.  However, before we could pick it up a large roll on / roll off tanker asked us to move so they could get past us.  He is barreling toward us and there is nothing we can do but try to reverse.

Unfortunately, once Matt reversed we had no way to get back to the mooring.

The marina guy towed us back to the mooring.  What a heart stopping event as we are surrounded by channel markers, buoys and boats.

We are here and settled.  This will be home for many weeks as we await our boat parts and start on all of the repairs.

Formalities in Fiji

Once we were settled on the mooring, the marina organized the officials. 

The Health official arrived first.  She checked under our beds, in our bathrooms, inside the fridge and freezer looking for bugs. 

We passed. 

Immigration, Customs, and Biosecurity were next.  A short 30-minutes later and we were officially cleared into the country!

Fiji Officials Clearing us into the Country

Fiji Officials Clearing us into the Country

A boat full of school kids passed by and shouted “Bula.”  It was the perfect welcome to this amazing country!

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We were under passage toward the end of April 2025. 

We celebrate the bombing of Funafuti, Tuvalu – check it out!

Bombing of Funafuti Celebration

We are invited to celebrate Te Aso o te Paula which translates to “The Day of the Bomb.”  This is a ceremonial day for Funafuti where they celebrate surviving the WWII bomb and the minimal loss of life.

The main atoll of Funafuti in Tuvalu received the U.S. Marines on October 2, 1942.  Funafuti became a significant army and navy base housing a total of 350 aircraft and a brand new airport.

The Japanese didn’t know the Americans built a base in Funafuti, Tuvalu.  They were looking for other bases to the North of Kiribati, not to the south.

The Japanese bombed Funafuti seven months after the airport was completed on April 23, 1943.

Even though one local and two servicemen lost their lives they still celebrate this day of survival.

Fun Fact about Funafuti

There are two main villages on the island.  To the south of the Presbyterian church is one village. The other village is located to the north of the church.  The church sits in the center of the island between both villages.  

There is one chief over the entire island and the priest is “over” the chief.

Celebrating in Funafuti

The two villages participate in games all week long to see who is the superior village.  On the celebration day, the compete in dance and song.

A group of men surround a platform that they use as a drum.  Singers surround the drummers and the dancers face the opposite village.

The celebrations start out with lunch and speeches.  The U.S. flag and special plaque are on display.

The villagers decorate the hall with beautiful, handwoven crafts.

The Dancers

Every song and dance tells a story.  Threaded through every story is the gratitude for the gift of life.

The women dancers delight with their beautiful smiles and gentle hand gestures.

The men show their fierce nature with strong movements and stomps.

A few of my favorite performers.

The 80th Anniversary Celebrated in NZ 

A beautiful video of the celebrations in New Zealand on April 23, 2023. 

A survivor recounts the Day of the Bomb. 

She remembered over 40 locals running to the church.  And shortly after an American soldier told them to evacuate as the church was an easy target. The church was later destroyed.

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events. 

We celebrated Te Aso o te Paula on 23 April 2025.

See more information on No Foreign Land 

In our last blog post I share the dramatic failures on Sugar Shack.

Tuvalu, the Smallest Country in the World?

Tuvalu is situated in the South Pacific.  Southeast of the Marshall Islands and Kiribati and North of Fiji and New Zealand.  It is barely a spec on the world map.

Tuvalu is a fully independent island nation within the Commonwealth. 

The country consists of 3 reef islands and 9 atolls. The population is 10,643 (consensus 2022).  This makes it the 2nd least populous country in the world (behind the Vatican City).

A Disappearing Country

Tuvalu is a low-lying island nation and is extremely vulnerable to sea level rise.  The highest point is a mere 15′ above sea level making it one of the countries most threatened by climate change.

Rising sea levels not only push back its shorelines, but the encroaching salt water also erodes the country’s limited farmland. The sea’s warming temperatures also threaten surrounding marine life.

The country made international headlines in 2021 when then-foreign minister Simon Kofe delivered a speech to the United Nations while standing knee-deep in water.

Because there is not a significant amount of soil the country has to rely heavily on imports and fishing for food.

During our visit we got to witness their attempt to save their island. 

Australia and New Zealand invested close to $100 million to add 40 acres of land. A massive amount of machinery. It starts with dredging the lagoon, then filtering sand, creating enormous sand mounds, then filling huge sand bags.  They then use the sand bags to create barriers between the shore and lagoon (bottom photo).

Income Sources

The local government has several income sources. However, two of them are their largest revenue stream.

The first is from fishing licenses.  Like many other Pacific Nations, Tuvalu sells fishing licenses to other countries.  This gives international companies the rights to fish in the Tuvalu waters.  

The second source of revenue is from a digital source. The government owns the suffix .tv.  So their email and web addresses end in .tv.  For example, christine.mitchell@tuvalu.tv.

As a brilliant move, the government sold its .tv internet suffix to a Californian company.  This brings in several million dollars a year in continuing revenue.  The California company then sells the suffix to television broadcasters.

Many locals harvest copra or work on cargo ships and send money back to their families

We arrived in Tuvalu a few days after they christened their very 1st ATM!  Can you believe it?  This cash only country had no ATM.

Funafuti Marine Conservation

20% of the lagoon in Funafuti is a marine conservation area covering 33sq kilometers (12.74 sq. miles). 

The conservation area consists of reef, lagoon, and motus on the western side of the atoll (gray area in image). 

Many species of fish, coral, algae, and invertebrates call this area home including the endangered green sea turtle.

Tuvalu Airport

For being such a small country it has a really nice airport. 

The landing strip has been newly paved making it the nicest we’ve seen in years. 

Fiji Link flies three times a week (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday) to and from Fiji and Tuvalu.  It is a big event when the plane comes so we took the opportunity to watch it a few times.  

Children use the runway as a playground when in between flights.

WWII 

Thousands of U.S. troops were stationed in Tuvalu during WWII.  They used used Tuvalu as a launching place to attack the Japanese in Kiribati. 

It is not uncommon to find WWII remnants on the beaches and reefs in Funafuti the capital of Tuvalu.

Beginning in 1942, U.S. forces built airbases on the islands of Funafuti, Nanumea, and Nukufetau. The Funafuti airstrip is still in use.

The Navy built a sea port, a small hospital, PT boat base, a seaplane base and an airbase.

Interesting Websites

We managed to find the “town drunk” who was super jovial and willing to share his jug of vodka coke with Matt

Our blog posts run 8-10 weeks behind actual live events.  We were in Tuvalu from April 18-25, 2025.

Check out Tuvalu on No Foreign Land: www.noforeignland.com/place/6056779874041856 

Can you believe we had a double steering failure on our passage from the Marshall Islands?