Monthly Archives: March 2020

Martingale issue

Aging Gracefully? Me and the Rig

Our beautiful home / boat is fast approaching her 20th birthday.  In human years that is at the start of your prime, but in boat years that is getting “up there.”  As you might recall, we replaced our rig (well our standing rigging) in St Maarten back in 2016.  Our rig was close to 15 years old but showed no signs of wear and tear.  We went to FKG Rigging which is known to for their top-quality products and craftsmanship.  We were very happy with work.

Fast forward 11,000 sailing miles and 3.5 years later….we have a problem.  Our martingale which is at the bow of the boat is made of 14mm stainless steel.  There are 19 strands woven together and then swagged in to a toggle on one side and a pin on the other.  This rod reaches from the port bow to the starboard bow and is the main support for the fore-stay which holds up the front of the mast.  So, basically, kinda important to have the martingale strong and healthy.

Saving Grace

On the port side we attached a shiv to direct the jib furling line.  It is a common thing to do as it helps furl the line without chafing into the furler.  Good thing we did too as the shiv was held on with dynema (really strong rope for my land lubbing readers).  The shiv is about 1-2” above the toggle on the martingale.

Matt noticed a problem during Shawn and Sharon’s visit. He just happened to look up as he was sitting near the bow.  Three of the 19 strands were broken off between the toggle and the shiv.  YIKES!  That is really bad.  Our mast could have fallen down, had we been under sail and put too much pressure on the martingale.

AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION

First things first, we put some preventative measures in place.  We tied our spin halyard which almost reaches to the top of the mast to the starboard bow cleat.

Spin Halyward bow to top of mast

Spin Halyward bow to top of mast

Then we tied a 3/8 or 1/2” dynema line from bow to bow to help support the martingale.  We later learned that the breaking strength of the dynema line is as strong as the 14mm stainless strand.  Wowza.  These two safety measures are just preventative.  We would not go under a big passage with these measures.

Shiv on top and damaged wires below

Shiv on top and damaged wires below

When we got back to the internet we contacted two companies in Tahiti.  There are no companies to work on our rig in the Marquesas. 

We use the information from our FKG invoice and measure, measure, measure prior to ordering.

Measuring the martingale

Measuring the martingale

Resources

We have a network of resources here which is fabulous considering the internet is not reliable or available.  There is a document called the compendium which is created by one boat, but information is gathered and shared by all cruisers who visit.  It is a crowd source document. 

There is also the SSB cruiser net which happens twice daily.  This is an information sharing channel used for vessels underway and at anchor to share information across French Polynesia.

Utilizing both of the above resources we discovered that there are two companies in Papeete that could possibly do the work for our rig.  Mat Rigging and Sailtech.  Mat Rigging was recently sold to a new person whom we know nothing about.  The original owner had a great reputation and was highly recommended but is no longer available.  All we can do is contact them both.

Sailtech

The initial email went unanswered.  After a few days, we called them, left a message and asked them to respond to the email.  The next day they responded that they were not sure if they had the toggle in stock.  After no response when I followed up, I emailed them again few days later.  The third email went unanswered.  They are technically a sail repair company and maybe not so great as a rig repair company. 

Mat Rigging

John, the new owner of Mat Rigging, responded the next morning that he could do the work in a week and provided an estimate.  We provided additional measurements and photos and had a few more emails back and forth.  Then he stated he needed full payment prior to starting work.  Not surprising, but frustrating.

Making Payments in Foreign Countries

It would be so easy if we could use paypal, vinmo, or even a credit card over the phone.  But alas that is not possible.  We went to the local bank in Nuku Hiva Banco Socredo with a French speaker.  He translated for me and asked if we could pay them cash to make a wire transfer to Banco Tahiti in Papeete.  The bank refused and suggested we try the post office.  We trudged over to the post office and they too refused.  Nuku Hiva Yacht services would do a transfer for us but they charged 10% which would be $112 and take two days.  Seriously, no way!

In my pondering state (some call it “bitching”) I mentioned my dilemma to some friends.  They knew a guy on another boat who was traveling to Papeete the next day and offered to introduce us.  Long story, short, we met, had dinner, shared some wine and gave him cash and John’s (Mat Rigging) contact information.  With any luck, he will arrive in Papeete the next day, meet with John and pay him for his services.  All went well and we received a receipt 36 hours later!

Shipping the Part

Typically, you can transport things by ship, plane or service.  The services (Fedex, DHL) can be unreliable here and there is no guarantee when or if your part will arrive.  The ship is not due to come in to Nuku Hiva for another 2 weeks (they shut down for the holidays).  So, it looks like air travel is the only way. Lucky for us, shipping was only $100 which seems cheap considering that this is a 4-meter (12’) piece of stainless steel pipping that can only be rolled so much – it will be a big, flat package.  Strange that you can ship part of your rig from one remote island to another. 

And It All Came Crashing Down

I was thinking “wow this has been relatively easy” John is easy to work with, speaks English, and this is happening.  But, alas, that is not the case.

On the day that the parts were supposed to be put on the plane, I got a call that he doesn’t have a right hand toggle.  WTF!  We sent the 3 part numbers in email (multiple times), text, and photographs.  He did not realize he did not have the part until after he received our money and went to assemble everything.  You’ve got to be kidding!

Check back with us for the conclusion of this saga.

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Round the Outside to Anaho Bay

Continuing our circumnavigation around Nuku Hiva with Shawn and Sharon.  Starting at Taihoe Bay, to Controller’s Bay to Anaho Bay (northern part of the island).  We left Controller’s Bay and pointed the boat toward the northern bay of Anaho.  A short 17.5nm trip that took a little over 3 hours with an average speed of 5.5kt.  A large heard of dolphins came to play with us for 45 minutes showing their prowess and agility.

Dolphins leading the way

Dolphins leading the way

Anaho Bay has a lovely beach, tiny church, and a pension (hotel type place) with an eatery.  We thought it would be very crowded as Anaho Bay is known to be one of the prettiest bays in Nuku Hiva.  But it was not too bad with only 11 boats in the anchorage.  To put it in perspective, there are well over 50 boats in Taihoe Bay.

Anaho Bay

Anaho Bay

A few locals were hanging around enjoying the sun, cleaning their catch, and playing music.  The church cannot hold many people, but there are only 12 people who live in this bay.

Small Church in Anaho Bay

Small Church in Anaho Bay

There are beautiful wild horses that roam around and run the beach – because they can!

Wild horses on the beach

Wild horses on the beach

We did a quick walk about just to stretch our legs and then retired back to the boat for a lazy day.

Anaho Beach Stroll

Anaho Beach Stroll

The next morning greeted us with a gorgeous sunrise and motivated us to do another hike.

Sunset in Anaho Bay

Sunrise in Anaho Bay

Hike to Haatuaua

Early the next morning we set out to explore the beach.  We read about a nice hike to another bay.  This time we clearly saw the trail the day before and we had a path.  It was a super easy and pretty hike along the beach and over the mountain to another beach. 

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

Shawn and Sharon start of hike

We had the entire bay to ourselves which was awesome.  The mountains surrounding the beach had spectacular ridges.  It looked like a large version of stalagmites reaching for the clouds.

Beautiful beach ridges

Beautiful beach ridges

On our way back we ran into a family and talked them into taking our photo at the top of the ridge.

Group photo at the top of the hill

Group photo at the top of the hill

When we got back, we found our dinghy on “the hard.”  Which means she was beached.  The tide had gone out and she was sittin pretty in the sand.

Beached Sweetie

Beached Sweetie

Hike was a total of 4.8mile and 12,991 steps.  Not a bad day’s walk.

Daniel’s Bay

Our longest passage with Shawn and Sharon was from Anaho Bay to Daniel’s Bay at 25.8nm over 5 hours. Only a few dolphins came out to play with us, but we did manage to land a rather large wahoo!  After about 30-35 minutes of fighting with the fish, he gave a little pull, then came in rather easily.  When we pulled him on the boat, we realized something (most likely a shark) ate his tail off.  With no means of propulsion and probably bleeding out he gave up. 

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

Wahoo Catch by Shawn

As the boys spent over an hour cleaning the fish, I enjoyed the amazing topography of the mountain ridges.

Spectacular Ridges

Spectacular Ridges

We arrived in the late afternoon and only had a short time to visit the beach.  A cute little dog befriended Sharon and stuck like glue to us.

Daniel's Bay River

Daniel’s Bay River

We walked along the river’s edge where the river meets the lagoon and did a little photo shoot.

Daniel's Bay River with Sharon

Daniel’s Bay River with Sharon

We all enjoyed a nice hot shower before dinner.  The boys in their towels being silly.

Boys dress up for dinner

Boys dress up for dinner

You can’t come to Daniel’s Bay without doing the nature walk to the “trickle fall” (which is actually a waterfall in the winter).  It is a gorgeous walk down an easy path lined with beautiful plants, flowers, and fruit trees.  You cross the river several times, climb over some rocks, and under trees.  Unfortunately, the waterfall was not even a trickle fall, but it still is really pretty.

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

Enjoying the beauty at the bottom of the falls

On the way back took some fun and goofy photos.

Waterfall at Daniel's Bay

Waterfall at Daniel’s Bay

Total hike 7.2 miles, 17,15 steps.  We rewarded ourselves with lunch at Teiki and Kua

Back to Reality

The next day we had to head back to Taihoe Bay so they could catch their flight back to the states.  We had an early birthday celebration with pork chops, cheesecake and my favorite rose wine! 

Birthday celebration

Birthday celebration

It was really hard to say “so long” to Shawn and Sharon!  They are such amazing people and great friends!

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Shawn and Sharon by Tiki in Taihoe

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Hiking Nuku Hiva

We begrudgingly left Daniel’s Bay to head back to Taihoe Bay. It was a quick hour motor back to the main anchorage where we secured a spot near the west end of the bay close to the small resort.  We had a “changing of the guards” so to speak where Wayne would be leaving us in a few days and Shawn and Sharon were coming on board in Nuku Hiva.  Both Shawn and Sharon are big runners so we planned several hikes during their visit.  

After the Melnar’s arrived, we headed back to the boat to begin celebrating their arrival.  It was a fabulous evening of good friends, cold drinks, and tasty food.  It’s been awhile since all 5 of us were together and it felt glorious!

Bon Voyage Wayne!

The next day we dropped Wayne off at the taxi and said our sad goodbyes.  Since, we were already on shore we decided to do the hike to Collette’s Bay.  We were able to walk Shawn and Sharon through town, the artisan market, and fresh produce market along the way.

We also swung by the beautiful Nuku Hiva Catholic church which has some amazing wood and stone carvings.

Church on Nuku Hiva

Church on Nuku Hiva

HIKE TO COLETTE’S BAY

Our “late start” of 1130 meant it was hot, hot, hot during our walk.  The first 1.5 miles of the “hike” is a walk down the road.  Then the road disappears and it becomes a dirt path.  The trail is well marked and easy to follow.  The last 1-1.5 miles is up hill until you reach the beach shores.

We enjoyed a few hours in the water before heading back.  A little piece of paradise hidden in Nuku Hiva.

Shawn and Sharon Colette's Bay

Shawn and Sharon Colette’s Bay

Of course, Matt had to be part of the photo shoot

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Photo Shoot with Shawn and Sharon

Hike total distance 5.8 miles, 14,243 steps, and 22 floors climbed.

CONTROLLER’S BAY

A short, but uncomfortable motor from Taihoe Bay to Hakahaa Bay (Controller’s Bay) was into the wind and waves.  We decided to leave early while it was a little calmer, but still encountered 2-meter seas.  Luckily Shawn and Sharon weathered through it and we arrived without incidence. 

Controller’s Bay has three “lobes” or bays where you can anchor.  Most people anchor in the middle one because it is bigger, has good holding, and is where the village is located.  The village consists of three small magasins, a medical center, post office, artisan center, and a church.  This is the main community area, artisan market, and performance area during festivals.

Artisan Market and Performance Area

Artisan Market and Performance Area

We had heard that there is a pretty waterfall hike in Controller’s Bay.  Of course, we did not have directions and the location was not clearly explained in the compendium (cruiser information sharing document we use).  It was not on maps.me or any of our other map apps.  Well, how hard can it be to find a waterfall?

The Elusive Waterfall

We started down the one road and headed toward the mountains.  Surprisingly, it was a nice paved road through “town” and toward what we thought was the path to the waterfall.  The hike was supposed to be 2-hours, but we did not know if it was 2-hours each way or round trip. 

After walking down the road for about 90 minutes, we spotted a waterfall.  We all hoped it was not the waterfall we were supposed to be heading to as it was really far away (top photo below).

Matt and Sharon decided to head back shortly after spotting the waterfall.  Shawn and I decided to continue on to the “waterfall overlook.”  Probably not the smartest decision.  Shawn is recovering (nicely) from knee surgery late last year and I was in flip flops. 

Another 2 miles later and about ¾ of a mile from our waypoint, a small vehicle came up the road.  I stuck my thumb out hoping for a ride.  They stopped and wouldn’t you know it they recognized my Sugar Shack hat.  We climbed in the back of their little truck and they took us to where maps.me indicated a lookout was located.  Nice view, but not lookout and no waterfall.  We had gone from 600’ elevation to 1200’ elevation and had already hiked 4.5 miles.  Top photo is the original waterfall and bottom photo is the “lookout” view of no waterfall (bottom photo below).

Controller's Bay Failed Hike

Controller’s Bay Failed Hike

Worn Out

We were both tired and ill prepared, but continued on back towards town.  By the time we got to town, we had no money, out of water, and had a few blisters to show for our 9-mile hike.  Again, probably not the best decision, but an interesting adventure.  We did come across a heard of baby piglets which were cute.

Little Piglets

Little Piglets

Hike total distance was 8.9 miles, 20,546 steps, and 61 floors climbed (1/4 mile assisted by a truck).

A Reprieve for us all

Once back on the boat, we headed for a little sandy islet where we hung out in the water and rested our weary bones.  Shawn found the energy to paddle over, but Matt drove Sharon and I in the dinghy – thank goodness.

Shawn paddling to beach

Shawn paddling to beach

Did you read our last post about Daniel’s Bay and our hikes there?

Coming up next:

We explore Anaho bay together.  Located on the north coast of Nuku Hiva.