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Buck Naked at Buck Island

With our issued permit, we headed out early to Buck Island and we could not help but wonder if it was named after the naked tourists or deer (surely there are no deer on this tiny uninhabited island).  It was less than an hour journey so we motored into the clearly marked channel and dropped anchor in 2 meters of water.  We arrived before the day charters invaded this peaceful place and it was beautiful.  Buck island is really small and designated as a National Historic Monument.  There is a walking trail and a snorkeling trail.  Slowly, the day charter boats started to arrive, so we decided it was time to swim ashore and begin our hiking adventure.  The hike starts at West Beach and takes you on a pristine trail through the canopy of trees to the observation point and then back down to Diedrichs point.

Canopied tress cover most of the hiking trail.

Canopied tress cover most of the hiking trail.

Isolated beach with lots of reefs and coral up to the sand.

Isolated beach with lots of reefs and coral up to the sand.

View on our hike - so pretty!

View on our hike – so pretty!

There were tons of birds, butterflies, and lizards to greet you along the way.  All in all the walk was pretty easy, clearly marked, and fun to do.  It probably took us about 1.5 hours there and back and that included a dip in the ocean to cool down.

Twisty tree that begs for you to sit under her cover. Very serene.

Twisty tree that begs for you to sit under her cover. Very serene.

We made it back to Diedrichs point - YEAH!

We made it back to Diedrichs point – YEAH!

We swam back to the boat for a snack and packed up Sweet N Low for our snorkel adventure.  There is only one spot we could anchor Sugar Shack which was off West Beach and the snorkel area is on the other side of the island.  Our boat was too big to take her directly to the snorkel spot, but Sweet N Low fit perfectly.  We arrived before everyone else and quickly jumped in.  Wayne went left and Matt and I went right (not sure why we didn’t stick together).  This was by far one of the prettiest reefs I’ve seen in a long time.  It was alive with coral, schools of all sorts of fish (purple tangs, blue tangs, etc…), home to some of the largest parrot fish we have ever seen, and only about 15-20’ deep..  About 5 minutes into our snorkel, I noticed this pretty little white fish with an aqua blue strip down both sides of its spine.  This cute little fish followed Matt ad I during our entire snorkel.  Close enough to be with us but far enough away that Matt could not touch her.  It was like having our own private tour guide.  After about 45 minutes to an hour we met Wayne back at the dingy where he told us about the grotto and signs.  What?  We missed that, so we hopped back in the water and checked out all of the underwater signs about the coral and sea life in that area. We also explored the grotto which was a tide pool with its own entrance and exit.  Inside here it was a little more protected, but just as beautiful!  One of the best experiences I’ve had for shizzle!

Sugar Shack enjoying solitude.

Sugar Shack enjoying solitude.

Buck Island. The yellow areas is the designated anchor area.

Buck Island. The yellow areas is the designated anchor area.

And yes, for those who read all the way to the bottom of the post, Matt did manage to get buck naked on buck island. 🙂

Pah You Goin?

(Where you going?) was a frequently asked when Matt made a sudden turn down a dirt road and the answer was always “Me ain know mehson” (I don’t know) – exploring.  Back in the jeep, we loaded our cooler and took off toward the west side of the island.  I wanted to see the rain forest, so we took the smaller roads that led to dirt roads instead of the main highway.  We managed to find the rain forest, which was amazing, with huge trees cresting over the roads, birds singing, and critters all over the place.  We only got “turned around” a few times and managed to find our way out to Frederiksted where we stopped at Freedom City Surf to catch some lunch.  We shared Mahi Mahi Tacos and super tasty seasoned chicken tacos along with a giant ear of corn soaked in butter and cheese!  Does life get much better?

Beach seating Freedom City Surf

Beach seating Freedom City Surf

We explored the west side of the island which was lovely and ran along the coast, but there were not many places to stop.  On our way to the north side of the island, we had to stop at the airport to clear out of the Virgin Islands.  Technically, we did not have to clear out since we are U.S. citizens and the boat is registered in the U.S., but we needed to have exit paperwork in order to clear into Bonaire.  After this little pit stop, we headed toward the north side.  We visited Spratnet (different from the Spratnet in St. Kitts) and stopped in at Off the Wall.  Both little bars are on the beach and have their own unique local vibe.  It was getting late and we had to feed the jeep and return her home – so we headed back to Christiansted.

Off the Wall restaurant.

Off the Wall restaurant.

Cool mosaic bar at Off the Wall

Cool mosaic bar at Off the Wall

We had hoped to motor-sail over to Buck Island which is a 19,015-acre national park which is 6,000’ long, 2,500’ wide, rises 328’ above sea level and includes 176-acres of tropical dry forest and 18,839-acres of submerged land and coral reef system.  As we were checking out the entry to this island, we discovered that you had to have a permit to take a private yacht there– yikes!  So, we decided to get up early and head to the National Park center to try to obtain a permit in one day (even though it typically takes 3-5 days to issue a permit).    We submitted the application, the woman assured us it won’t take 3-5 days, but did not say anything about turning it around in one day so we decided to explore Christiansted on foot.  First, we explored Fort Christiansvaern, which is a Historic Site commemorating urban colonial development of the Virgin Islands. It features 18th and 19th century structures in the heart of Christiansted, the capital of the former Danish West Indies on St. Croix Island.  They have recreated old barracks, prison, dungeon, latrine, powder room, and artillery room.  Pretty cool with impressive views of the bay.  We then headed down their main street to check out the local wares.  Of course, I had to purchase a hook bracelet which is a St. Croix symbol of friendship and love.    Before heading back to the boat, we checked on our permit and a lovely lady hand walked it down to the police for us so that we could head to Buck island tomorrow!

St. Croix hook bracelet

St. Croix hook bracelet

Vibrant red flowers blooming all over the island.

Vibrant red flowers blooming all over the island.

“Check yoh latah!” (See you later!)

Limin’ in St. Croix

Now that Wayne has his sea-legs, we raised the sails and headed for St. Croix.  It was a magnificent day to sail with an easy beam reach, full sails up, good seas, and blue skies.  It took a short 5 hours to get to the largest of the Virgin Islands.  There are two anchorages, Christiansted Harbor and Frederiksted.  St. Croix is three times the size of St. Thomas and they have roughly the same population.  I found a funny Crucian (local person and language of St. Croix) dictionary so I will be peppering new phrases into this blog.  “Limin” in the title means “hanging out”.  We decided to anchor in Christiansted which has well marked channels, but if you go outside of them, or miss a buoy you will be aground quickly as this bay is filled with reefs.  We tried anchoring in one spot but quickly realized it was not a good hold and moved to the side of the channel where we had 2 meters of water (6’), we draft 1 meter (3’) so it is shallow.  Good thing we moved, as the first spot is in the direct path of the sea planes.

Cool graffiti art!

Cool graffiti art!

We received some good intel from the local bartender who told us we should take a Tan Tan Tour around the island, so we scurried up to their location only to be told that they could not give us a jeep tour until Wednesday.  Well, that won’t work.  So we rented our own jeep and headed to the east side of the island.  Of course, Matt had to get used to be being behind a wheel again, and driving on the left side of the road.  No easy task for someone who has been on a boat for 6 months.  Since we were our own tour guides and had a four-wheel drive jeep, we took a lot of roads less traveled and found many beaches, paths, and sites off the grid.

Observation deck at the top of the hill with great views of the reefs below.

Observation deck at the top of the hill with great views of the reefs below.

Sun dial celebrating the turn of the century.

Sun dial celebrating the turn of the century.

Super huge castle that I so wanted to tour, but it is privately owned.

Super huge castle that I so wanted to tour, but it is privately owned.

We quickly came across the Captain Morgan Distillery or as they call it the “welcome center” and had to stop.  “Fa True” (do you mean it), yes!  Really nice plant they have here, you are buzzed inside, buy a $10 ticket, watch a short 15-minute video on the history of Captain Morgan, and start your tour.  They load you into an open-air cart and take you around their huge plant where they can produce 2 billion gallons on rum a year!  After your tour, you are given two tokens that you can exchange for drinks made from a variety of their flavored rums – “Fa True!” (do you mean it) and yes I do!  So, basically you get the tour for free.  We each tried different concoctions and shared- Sweet! (see recipes)

Visitor Center or drinking adventure?

Visitor Center or drinking adventure?

Matt gettin some captain in him.

Matt gettin some captain in him.

Love this quote - wish they had a flag!

Love this quote – wish they had a flag!

What? This is for "Captain Morgan" not "Christine Mitchell"

What? This is for “Captain Morgan” not “Christine Mitchell”

We hopped back in the jeep and continued our adventure.  We did not make it far before we came to the Cruzan Rum Distillery. “Wha, leh we go nuh” (What? Let’s Go).  Cruzan Rum is a local rum that is currently co-owned by Jim Beam and a Japanese company.  They are still operating under their own label and producing many types of flavored rum.  We arrived just in time to hop on a tour.  You can certainly tell the difference between a national rum tour from a local rum tour, but none the less it was a lot of fun.  There was no movie in a fancy theater, or open-air cart, but we had a “sweet mout” (person who flatters) tour guide with lots of energy.  She told us a little about Cruzan Rum’s history, how their rum is made, and showed us around the plant.  They distill their rum differently than Captain Morgan, but both plants get their molasses from other parts of the world and both have their final product and bottling done in the U.S.

Wouldn't it be sweet if this were filled with rum?

Wouldn’t it be sweet if this were filled with rum?

Variety of rum drinks enjoyed by all

Variety of rum drinks enjoyed by all

Local Cruzan Rum workers (I'm in my beach attire, not slutty dress)

Local Cruzan Rum workers (I’m in my beach attire, not slutty dress)

Matt found barrels of rum from 2009. They will be well aged.

Matt found barrels of rum from 2009. They will be well aged.

It was getting late and we wanted to get back to The Brew for their Monday night entertainment, crab races.  “Cheese and bread” (denotes surprise).  Yes, we wanted to see crab races.  We arrived just in time to pay $2 per crab, we named them “Larry, Curly, and Mo” and awaited the start.  The ring leader was very nice, said that he gets new crabs every two weeks, puts tape on their shell to write their names so as not to damage the shell, and handles them with care.  They had several races and to be honest it was pretty funny.  Our little crabs did not win, but it was fun.

Crab races in St. Croix. We had "Larry, Curly, and Mo" and they did not cross the line.

Crab races in St. Croix. We had “Larry, Curly, and Mo” and they did not cross the line.

Since we did not get to see the entire west side of the island, we decided to keep the jeep an extra day and continue our self-guided tour.

Funny Phrases:

“Lala” means “Talking nonsense”

“Skylarking” means “Talking about oneself”

“A crab never forget he hole” means “There’s no place like home”

“Dutty han mek greasy mout” means “Work hard and you will eat well”

“Wha’ sweet got mout” means “We pay for everything in life”

All fish does bite but shark does get di blame” means “Those with a history of bad behavior are always the first one accused”