Category Archives: Daily Lime

Tahanea

Tremendous Tahanea

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We were ready to move on after spending a quiet and beautiful week at Amanu.  Our friends on Marie Alice, Richard and Natalie, wanted to follow us out of the pass as they were still lacking navigation.  Their passage took them to Fakarava whereas ours will take us to Tahanea.

We pulled the hook up at 0930 and took our time getting to the pass which was 4.58nm across the lagoon.  Slack tide was estimated to be at 1100.  We unfurled the jib and had a leisurely sail at 3-3.5 kts.

The pass was supposed to be slack but in reality, there was an outgoing current (again).  Lucky for us we were going out.  We experienced 5kts of outgoing current where our boat speed was 5kts but the SOG (speed over ground) was 10kts.  Marie Alice and Sugar Shack both made it out safely.

Passage to Tahanea

The forecast had light winds 12-15kts from the SE.  We decided to set the parasail.  This is a fairly “new to us” sail as we bought it off another boat in the Marquesas about 1.5 years ago.  We don’t get many opportunities to fly it, but when we do it is a true joy.  This sail gives us a little more wiggle room with shifting wind directions and speeds. 

We flew the parasail all night and into the next day.  Around mid-morning, a storm started brewing so we dropped her and unfurled the jib.  The “weather” did not last so we put the parasail back up. 

The clouds are funny to me.  During the day they are playful, light, and fluffy.  But at night, they become dark, foreboding, and ominous.  Lucky for us it was all good.  We even had some truly spectacular sunsets.

Overall, it was a really wonderful passage.  We had gentle winds, less than predicted.  The following seas were large at times, but they were in long intervals and very gentle.  We only had one or two small storms but there was no lightening or thunder and very little rain.

Entering the Tahanea pass was a breeze.  We entered at dawn and had 1-1.5 kts of incoming current.  No problems.  We quickly motored across the lagoon to the south end where we met our friends from Gambier, Bella Donna (Kate & Andrew their girls Anna and Florence), Sling shot (Jen and Gavin and their kids Nathan and Julia), and Due South (Wendy & Peryn and their 4 boys). 

Trip Details

  • Miles to Destination:      230nm
  • Total Miles Sailed:            231nm
  • Max Speed:                        10kts (out of the pass)
  • Average Speed:                5.3kts
  • Total Passage Time:        1 day 21 hours (includes crossing Amanu lagoon)

Tahanea SE Anchorage

There are several boats in the south anchorage when we arrived.  We know a few of them (Slingshot, Bella Donna, Due South) and have heard of a few others (Macushla).  They are hanging out here because it is perfect for kite boarding and they are all huge kite boarders.  Many of the boats have kids and it is amazing to see these young people do extraordinary kite tricks.  This is Nathan, he is 11 years old and is fearless!

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

A few more shots of Nathan with their boats in the background.

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

Nathan (Sling Shot) kite boarding

How many kits can you count in these photos?  Answer at bottom of post.

Matt and I anchor about 1.5nm away from the other boats where we have anchored before.  It is in front of Nico’s place.  Nico lives on another atoll called Faaite but comes here to process copra (coconuts) several months a year.  He has a simple, but comfortable home.  He only speaks French but is incredibly welcoming, friendly, and generous.  We asked him where we could find some lobsters and if he would take us hunting. He said yes, yes, but here are some you can have now.  He would not take any money.  So, we provided him with loads of fishing stuff and sweet treats.

Motu Exploration

We took this opportunity to explore lots of the motus on the southwest end of this atoll.  We took sweetie over 4nm away from the boat to the western motus. The bottom right anchor is where Sugar Shack is located and we went to where the red arrow is.  These motus were very different than the ones by the big boat. The windward side of the motu faced the Pacific.  However, there was a lagoon and a reef between the breaking waves and the motu which meant there was sand on the windward side as opposed to giant coral rocks.  Complete surprise.  Bottom left photo shows typical windward side and bottom right shows sandy, pebbly beach.

Another surprise was that we found three intact conch shells.  They had lots of corrosion on them so we did not keep them, but they were super pretty.

We walked across the water ways in between several motus.  It is absolutely beautiful.  Each direction you turn you see nothing but beauty.  Tahanea just takes your breath away.

To be Continued…

We had so much fun in Tahanea that you have to wait for our next blog release to finish the adventure.  Stay tuned as we snorkel with manta rays, swim with sharks, learn to foil, and enjoy more of the kiters.

Check out our previous posts on Tahanea such as this one.

There are 4 kites only because I had to cut two of them off to fit the photo.

Events from this blog post occurred during the second week May, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.  Tahanea on NoForeignLand.com.

Amanu's Beautiful Waters

Astonishing Amanu

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 The sun rose bright and early in Amanu and we both felt like spring chickens after our good night’s sleep!  One: it was a solid sleep with no night shifts.  Two: it was flat and calm with no rocking and rolling.  Three: it was quiet with no engines or generator.  Pure bliss.

We end up spending 5 days on the south east corner of Amanu.  We had wanted to explore other anchorages but the weather was not cooperating.  So, instead we take Sweetie out and explore lots of different motus.

Tuamotus Islands are called Atolls

If you remember, the Tuamotus are flat motus that surround the lagoon. In between each motu is a water flow that can be small like a babbling brook or large like a full river.  Usually you can cross the water passages to get to another motu.

Here is a water passage.  One photo is looking toward the lagoon (top) and the other is looking toward the Pacific (bottom).

Amanu Pass between motus

Amanu Pass between motus

Three quarters of the motu are covered in different size rocks and dead coral with trees or bushes in the middle.  Only a small portion of the motu facing the lagoon is covered in small coral and sand.

Amanu

Amanu

Lots of Sea Critters and Crabs

I love that bottom left photo with Sweetie in the foreground and Sugar Shack in the background.  The water colors are simply divine in Amanu.

Each motu has a ton of crabs and sea life.  One particular motu had a bevy of crabs in many shapes and sizes.  I love the one in the middle with his extra-large red claw!  In the upper right corner, the two green crabs were trying to hide from us.

We came across a cool house on a really small and remote motu. We were so surprised to see this “real house” with water collection system, sliding glass doors, windows, and curtains because this motu is so remote.  Usually there are just “pop ups” made of metal sheets or plywood out on the motus. 

More Abandoned FADs

We ran across a lot of abandoned FADs and as a result the sea side looks awful.  Unfortunately, we did not have the energy to try to disassemble all of them.  These two fads had become so embedded in the rock that removal was difficult.

Because I sowed the ugly FADs on the beach, I had to post this beautiful photo of Amanu’s water.  Can you see my shadow?

Can you see my shadow?

Can you see my shadow?

Events from this blog post occurred during the second week May, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.

Reef Walking on the Wild Side

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It is a king’s tide which means an adventure for its peasants!  As you know, the tidal range change with the different phases of the moon.  During a “king’s tide” with a full moon, the low tide is lower and the high tide is higher.  How does this open up to an adventure?  The lowest tide exposes the reef allowing us to walk a mile and a half from Puaumu to Tepapuri. Under normal conditions, this walk is unattainable as it becomes a swim.

This is not an arduous walk as it is flat and not very far (round trip 3 miles).  However, you have to be incredibly careful as you walk across the live coral where millions of sea critters call home.  Trying to avoid the live coral, sea creatures, and plants can be challenging as you walk across the slippery, slimy surface.

The top photo shows Teapuri in the way distance (small spec of trees just past the reef).  The bottom photo shows Puaumu in the way distance beyond the close motu.

1.4 mile walk from Puaumu to Teapuri

1.4 mile walk from Puaumu to Teapuri

We left Sugar Shack around 0630, secured Sweetie, our dinghy, and began our adventure.  Super pretty and brisk in the early morning.

We traversed over the reef making our best attempts to avoid any living organism.  It is always amazing to me to see what lies beneath the sea.  And with low tide, it is all exposed.  How do these guys survive when the tide is low and they are out of water for hours at a time?

The top two photos are looking at Teapuri and the bottom photo is looking at Puaumu.

Different views of the reef

Different views of the reef

Hidden Discoveries at Low Tide

Pretty coral heads were scattered throughout the reef ranging in color from pink, purple, green and white.  Little green and pink plants were also peppered throughout the reef.  The sea cucumbers out number all of the sea creatures, but they are very easy to spot (large, black, turd looking animals – see image top right).

We encountered lots of critters waiting for the water to return.  Several eels made came out to greet us in their not so friendly way.  One eel scurried from one pool of water to another.  These eels are all under water but it is so clear that you can’t tell in the photos.

A ton of little crabs put on a display of power as we walked by.  They may be small but I wouldn’t want their pinchers anywhere near my 10 little piggies.

I tried to do a panorama showing the high tide vs the low tide.  But based on the lower image and the break in the sea I would say I suck at keeping my hands steady. But you get the idea.

Me taking advantage of the low tide by walking out to the edge of the berm…I look like a lion with all that hair.

Here is a beautiful photo of the full moon.  It was spectacular and glorious to look at.

Full Moon Giving us Kings Tide

Full Moon Giving us Kings Tide

Events from this blog post occurred on 26 April, 2021.  Our blog posts run 10-12 weeks behind our adventures.