Category Archives: New Caledonia

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Where the Heck is New Caledonia?

New Caledonia is a small island country situated between Fiji and Australia.  It’s lagoon is one of the largest enclosed lagoon systems in the world, stretching over 24,000 square kilometers.  In addition, the lagoon is protected by the world’s second-largest continuous coral reef After Australia’s Great Barrier reef.

It is a place of turquoise lagoons, welcoming anchorages, and enough baguettes to make you forget you’re in the South Pacific.

But beneath the palm trees lies a fascinating and sometimes complicated history.

New Caledonia was first inhabited by the Kanak people around 3,000 years ago. European contact arrived much later when British explorer Captain James Cook sighted the islands in 1774. He thought the rugged landscape looked similar to Scotland and named it “Caledonia,” the Roman name for Scotland. Since “New Scotland” didn’t have quite the same ring to it, New Caledonia was born.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Image courtesy of CHESHER

France annexed the islands in 1853 and later used them as a penal colony. France sent more than 20,000 convicts here. In fact, some of those prisoners stayed after serving their sentences, and many present-day families can trace their roots back to those early settlers. 

Today, New Caledonia remains a French territory, making it one of the more unique places in the Pacific. The official language is French, the currency is the CFP Franc, and you’ll find croissants, fine cheese, and excellent wine surprisingly close to some of the world’s most beautiful coral reefs.

The population is just under 300,000 people, with roughly 40% identifying as Kanak, alongside communities of European, Polynesian, Asian, and other Pacific Island heritage. The capital, Nouméa, is home to nearly half the population and feels more like a slice of the French Riviera than a typical South Pacific town.

So how does New Caledonia make its money?

The answer is nickel.

The islands sit atop some of the world’s largest nickel reserves. New Cal has long been one of the planet’s major producers. Many countries use Nickel in stainless steel and increasingly in batteries for electric vehicles, making it a highly valuable resource. For decades, mining has been the backbone of the economy, though fluctuating global prices have created challenges in recent years.

And here’s a fun fact: New Caledonia is home to the kagu, a rare flightless bird found nowhere else on Earth. With its striking crest and unusual barking call, it looks like something Mother Nature designed after a particularly long lunch.

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Like many places in the Pacific, New Caledonia is balancing tradition, modernity, and questions about its future. Political discussions surrounding autonomy and independence remain important topics.

In recent years the country has seen periods of unrest as different groups debate the islands’ path forward.

The Kanaks are known for their warm nature, rich culture, and the remarkable natural beauty that surrounds them.

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Matt and I are very excited to adventure through New Caledonia. 

New Caledonia is a landfall of emerald mountains, crystal-clear water, fresh baguettes, and the comforting knowledge that paradise occasionally comes with French pastries.

Not a bad combination.

We plan to spend 2.5-3 months exploring Grande Terre (the main island) and its surrounding islands as well as Isle de Pines.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  We arrived in New Caledonia in early June 2026.

Baguette search success

Well there you have it. Goal achieved

Baguette has arrived

Arrived yesterday morning, as planned, through pass at sunrise, can’t see the reefs until you are right there and just a change in wave behavior above them

The light house is there to guide you in.

Lighthouse at daybreak

Welcomed into the lagoon with this sight.

A welcome squall

A crazy run around to get immigration process complete before they closed at noon? Best government job ever.

A couple of beers and pizza with friends who met us at the dock and grabbed our lines and secretly dropped off some French pastries for breakfast. There was a band at the marina bar, started at 6pm… don’t think I was awake for the end of the first song.

What started out as 880nm trip, turned into 1047nm. I took the scenic route. Don’t know if it was more comfortable or not, I do know it was full day longer than following the direct route. There was some nice sailing in the middle part, but the beginning and end were definitely not champagne sailing, you would have missed your mouth with the champagne flute on every sip. We averaged 7.5 knots for the trip which is pretty good for a long passage.

Anyway cheers signing off till our next passage.

Baguette search day #6

Last full day of core exercise.   The swell found us or did we find the swell?  

We have been doing the time warp all day long.  

It’s just a jump to the left

And step to the right

With your hands on the boat

Lock your knees in tight.. 

But its the floor you trust

Is driving you insane

Let’s do the Timewarp again. .. and again and again.

For every 3 meter wave that catches you off guard.

Finally found a rhythm that was semi-comfortable, and boat at a decent pace to arrive at daybreak the following morning.   There is a lot of charts and talk that its well marked and lit, can easily be done in the dark.  If the sea wasn’t as angry I imagine we would go that route, but with the sea state and possibly the swell at the pass, I just want to have a look and make sure there are no standing waves or big current coming out as we will be a few hours after slack tide when we arrive in the daylight.  

The Rocky Horror exercise routine was partially attributed to mother nature trying to make up for neptunes tempertantrum.  Neptune would make a bunch of racket and stir up the waves that splash and cover sugar shack completely..  Seemed like there was water falls at from every horizontal surface at points during the day.  The new solar panels were a water feature, salt water creating a curtain of water right in to the dinghy.   Mother nature must have felt sorry for us and promptly rinsed it off with drive thru boat wash, and then showed us she still cared with many colorful signs. 

Reward or Apology?

Then it got to be a competition, I think neptune must have summoned up some siblings and started make waves from a couple directions at once.  

Spicy cajun pasta for dinner, double checked the freezer we have indeed exhausted all the swine related products. My favorite is to show the bio officers the Trader Joe’s veggie chorizo, that always confuses everyone.   Looks like pork but…  🙂 

All good, another 12-15hrs and it’ll be time to find a cold beverage, a hot shower, and a bed that doesn’t try and throw you like an 8 second bull, and of course the long awaited fresh baguette.