Tag Archives: live aboard

Dinghy Dock at Linton Bay

Sailing to Linton Bay

We had been “off the grid” for 12 days. It doesn’t sound that long, but try not watching TV, listening to the radio, or being online (no chats, texts, emails, news updates, Instagram, Facebook, nothing). As romantic as it might sound, it was really hard. There are a few options to get some wifi, but they all included leaving the San Blas islands. We could do a downwind run to Carti, broad reach to El Provenir, or beam reach to Linton Bay.  Linton Bay won out. But first we had to say farewell to Wayne who was being picked up from Carti.

We were all up early awaiting Wayne’s panga ride which was scheduled to arrive at 730am. They arrived promptly and carried our Wayne away.

Wayne leaving in a panga...heading home.

Wayne leaving in a panga…heading home.

We took this opportunity to do laundry, clean up the port side of the boat, and catch up on some laziness. We wasted the day away, but we did make a plan to head to Linton Bay to get fuel, provision, and find a sim card. Always good to have a plan.

The next morning we got up early, checked out the weather report, and discovered that 2 other sailboats that we knew were heading to Linton Bay as well. We deflated and stowed the SUPs, put the bean bags below, and readied the boat for her 45 mile day.

The winds were blowing pretty strong at 25-30 knots and a squall was predicted so we double reefed the main and the jib. The first few hours were great as we sailed along at 8-9 knots, beam reach, and 2-3 meter waves. As the winds slowed we shook the jib out completely and surfed the odd rogue waves that periodically gave us a bit of a push. The waves stayed big with some cresting at 4 meters, rocking the boat in an odd pattern, but the wind stayed strong enough for us to sail.

It was not the best ride with the funky winds, but it was good to have the sails up and the boat moving with canvas. We were escorted by a rather large pod of exceptionally big dolphins. They were a frisky bunch, showing off their best lords of leaping skills. Kept us entertained for well over a half an hour.

We arrived into Linton Bay around 1600 with the sun low in the sky and reefs all around us. We carefully motored into the bay and found a spot to drop the hook in 10 meters of water. Pretty deep water for us as we like to have 7 to 1 scope on our chain. We have 100 meters of chain, so it is doable, just a little out of our comfort zone. As we were anchoring, our friends Dave and Mary from “Wandering Rose” welcomed us with a frenzied wave.

Linton Bay Marina with haul out equipment in background with orange straps.

Linton Bay Marina with haul out equipment in background with orange straps.

We were finally able to get a signal off the GoogleFi phone so I checked emails, attended to some business and answered a few urgent requests. We decided it would be best to go ashore to get some intel so we dropped Sweetie in the water and headed ashore.

A quick stop at “Wandering Rose” provided some good information on the local pub, internet access, trash, and bus schedule. We headed up to the “bar” which is not much more than a floating barge with some chairs, tables, grill, and cooler. None the less, it had wifi.

Linton Bay Bar in front and marina office that ran out of money mid-construction.

Linton Bay Bar in front and marina office that ran out of money mid-construction.

Dinghy dock or panga dock.

Dinghy dock or panga dock.

We saddled up to the bar, ordered Matt a $1 beer and clicked away. Some other friends from “La Vie” arrived and gave us more information on local towns, provisioning, and safety. Not long after, Barry from “White Shadow and “Adventures of an Old Sea Dog” joined us.  Evidently, the bar was low on beer, had no food, and little ice.  So the bartender shut up shop, told us to lock up and left.  A party in Panama for sure.

This funny painting was in a lovely gallery.

This funny painting was in a lovely gallery.

This cracked me up - branding at its best

This cracked me up – branding at its best

MARKETING AT ITS BEST:

Love that the local stores carry some American brands.  And of course cheaper brands of the same cereal…wonder about the taste and quality?

Two-Palm Island Picnic

Ustupu to Mono Island

We got up fairly early as we wanted to make a stop at Ustupu on the way to Mono Island AND we had to pull up the second anchor. It took us an hour to pull up the second anchor. It is useful to have two anchors and gives you peace of mind when you use, it, but it can be a pain in the A$$ setting it and pulling it up. We had a muddy bottom, so we turned on the wash down pump to wash off the secondary anchor and our main anchor chain before it went into the locker. It was a slow process purging the mud from the chain, but worth the effort. Almost 2 hours later we were on our way.

Ustupu is the most populated community in Guna Yala. As we neared the village we encountered a tremendous amount of trash in the water, shoes, bottles, bags, etc… Perplexed, we anchored in the little bay across from the police station where locals were loading two large boats were loading trash. Maybe pieces were coming from there?

Image of Ustupu as we come into the bay.

Image of Ustupu as we come into the bay.

Ustupu from the bay.

Ustupu from the bay.

Just across the bay is a sacred islet where they have buried the great Nele Kantule, a very important spiritualist.  He lived from 1868-1944 and was a famous chief and medicine man of the Kuna indigenous tribe of Panama and Columbia.

Nele Kantule, medicine man

Nele Kantule, medicine man

Nele Kantule Burial Site on a private island

Nele Kantule Burial Site on a private island

We were certainly a curiosity for the locals as many dug outs came close to Sugar Shack to say “hola.” Matt made an excellent migas style breakfast and we scampered ashore. We had high hopes of finding somewhere to dump our trash, but until we were certain they had a way to dispose of it we left it on the boat. Ashore, everyone was equally welcoming, very friendly, and a few shook our hands.

The two-story building found as you approach the island is the official administrative building of Ustupu which houseschief’s secretary, Panamanian police, and administrative offices. Evidently, there is a fairly busy airport and a few shops/huts selling local wares.

Official administrative building of Ustupu.

Official administrative building of Ustupu.

A monument was constructed honoring Nele Kantule on Ustup.

Nele Kantule monument on Ustupu

Nele Kantule monument on Ustupu

We passed by several restaurants, a few stores, a church, school, and many communities of huts.

Nice road on Ustupu, Bridge connecting villates, Xmas tree made out of plastic bottles, dugout, church

Nice road on Ustupu, Bridge connecting villates, Xmas tree made out of plastic bottles, dugout, church

After a quick exploration, we headed back to the boat. It was clear they don’t get many visitors and we stuck out like a sore thumb. Some children anticipated our next turn and met us on the road which was fun.

Unfortunately, we witnessed several Gunas dumping their trash directly into the ocean. They boys had to shuffle me along as I gasped in horror. I know I don’t understand their culture or traditions and I need to learn that it is not my place to judge. Thank goodness, we did not bring our trash to shore.

MONO ISLAND:
Mono island is a mangrove line bay, quiet and protected. As we approached this little island, we saw for the first time on this trip, another cruising boat through the inlet. That’s ok, this bay is big enough for the two of us. Matt at the helm, was watching our chart and depth gauge, while Wayne and I were at the bow watching for shallow spots and coral heads. We maneuvered around a few tricky spots and found a place to anchor away from our neighbors.

Mono Island, I did not have an image from this island so this is from the Bauhaus book.

Mono Island, I did not have an image from this island so this is from the Bauhaus book.

After we got situated, we packed a picnic, hopped into the dinghy and headed over to what we affectionately called “Two Palm Island.” Its real name is Sutedup and it is about a mile away from Mono Island.

Sutedup island which we renamed, 2-Pam island.

Sutedup island which we renamed, 2-Pam island.

The island looked picturesque and we were soon giddy with excitement to have a picnic on our new private island. We pulled Sweetie up on shore and were faced with a lot of trash. It was heartbreaking to see this small piece of paradise covered in plastic bottles, shoes, and debris.

Noooooo...trash filled Sutedup island.

Noooooo…trash filled Sutedup island.

Matt proclaimed this “the island of the wayward flip-flops.”  Yet, we only collected shoes from half of the island – so sad.

Shoes collected from half of the island.

Shoes collected from half of the island.

Determined to make the best of it, we cleared a spot, put out our towel, turned on the music and opened a bottle of rose!

My boys!

My boys!

Yep, Wayne is having a good time.

Yep, Wayne is having a good time.

Rose on our own private island - does it get any better?

Rose on our own private island – does it get any better?

Beer holder - local style

Beer holder – local style

You can choose to look past the trash and see the beauty in anything:

View without the trash.

View without the trash.

As the sun was setting, we hopped back in Sweetie and headed to the boat for some dinner. We didn’t go ashore on Mono Island, but we read it has footpaths that can be explored between the mangroves.

Picture of Sugar Shack, a bit over exposed and far away, but cool none the less.

Picture of Sugar Shack, a bit over exposed and far away, but cool none the less.

Heading to Puerto Velero.

Puerto Velero to Puerto Obaldia

The weather forecast estimated between 1.6 and 2 travel days which gave us a huge window to guess our arrival. Puerto Obaldia is not a good anchorage and should only be used as a day stop. We wanted to arrive Puerto Obaldia in the morning so we could clear in and head to another anchorage for the night.

First thing in the morning we decided to replace our wind vang which had lost its cups during the previous night’s storm and was not working properly. So, we hoisted Matt up our 70’ mast to replace it with a new wind vang. Now we could see the wind speed and direction. What a novel idea for a sail boat!

As we were leaving the channel, we were chased down by the Armada National. They instructed us to follow them back into the bay where they could board our boat out of the swell. Great, we headed back into the bay, put out our fenders, and got our documents out. Technically, we should have had the yellow flag up and called this a boat repair stop or safety stop. The Spanish/English language gap made it a little exciting. Matt showed them our broken wind vang and pointed up the mast. The guard obviously wasn’t a friend of heights and returned a wide-eyed gaze and asked if Matt had gone up there. They searched our boat, checked our paperwork, called into their boss and informed them we had a boat repair – an hour later we were on our way.

As we left the bay for the second time, the wind dropped down to 6-8 knots and the waves were less than 1 meter. Looks like a motor day.

As we were passing Cartagena, the AIS goes off stating that “Sugar Shack needs to notify Cartagena Port Authority when entering or leaving Cartagena.” We were not going there, tried to call on VHF, got no response, gave up.  Then 45 minutes later another message appears on AIS. We called again on VHF, think we heard them tell us to change to a different channel and did. However, the channel was already occupied and conversation was already in progress. Matt tried to explain, in broken Spanish, that we were heading to Panama, not to Cartagena. We waited on VHF 16, got nothing and continued on.

We switched off sitting at the helm randomly until about 1800 when we set 3-hour shifts. I took the first shift 6p-9p followed by Matt, then Wayne. As you know, almost everything happens between 2am and 3am which happened to be just as I was coming on my 2nd shift. A nasty storm was brewing on the radar right in front of us. We got our foul weather gear out, put the eye brow down and prepared for some wind and rain. But as it turned out, the storm parted right down the center and we motored right on through it with only a few sprinkles – not even enough to wash the boat.

Storm parted to let us through with just a few drops of rain.

Storm parted to let us through with just a few drops of rain.

What the storm did bring was a huge wind shift-180 degree. Instead of being a broad reach it was now right on our nose which made it impossible to sail! It didn’t really matter as the winds were still too low to raise the canvas so we continued on motoring. We attempted to fly the jib periodically, but it never filled for very long.

DAY 1 Puerto Velero to Puerto Obaldia
• Total Daily Miles: 142
• Max Speed: 10.9
• Avg Speed: 5.9
• Hours Moving: 24
• Wind Avg: 5-7 knots
• Wing Angle: Broad Reach to Run then shifted to nose
• Wave Height Avg: > 1

DAY 2 OF PASSAGE TO PUERTO OBELDIA:

I love the dawn shift as the moon sets and the sun rises. It is such a great reflection time.

Pretty sunrise on journey.

Pretty sunrise on journey.

Somewhere during late morning, we received a hitch hiker. Not sure if it was a huge moth or a butterfly, but it flew right into our cabin and perched on our shelf. I gently tried to scoot it out the cabin door, but it ended up flying out the front hatch, around the cabin and back in through the cabin door! What. So, I tried again and this time it flew down into the office. I opened the small hatch in the office and gently nudged it out the window – again only for it to fly right back into the cabin. Well, clearly, she needs to rest from her long journey so we will let her be for now.

INSERT IMAGE OF BUTTERFLY

Large moth or butterfly?

Large moth or butterfly?

Several hours later, Matt urged the butterfly to leave (not so gently) and she repeated the same process, out a window and back in. Finally, we got smart and closed the main cabin doors and shooed her out but not before she tried to get back in several more times. As she left, a huge moth arrived and perched on the sail bag. This did not seem to bother us as much as she was outside and up high. She stayed with us until the next morning.

We raised the main and attempted to fly the jib, even though the wind was still on our nose. Mostly to no advantage.

Give us wind please.....

Give us wind please…..

We alternate between sleeping, eating, or reading, while not on shift.  Anything to pass the time.

Passing the time on a passage.

Passing the time on a passage.

The wind did pick up, but it stayed on our nose which did not help us get there any sooner.

Good wind, but right on the nose.

Good wind, but right on the nose.

Watching the time of arrival on the GPS can be an emotional rollercoaster. One minute it says you will arrive in daylight and the next minute it says you’ll have to bob around in circles for 12 hours till the sun comes up. We soon realized that we were not going to arrive Puerto Obeldia in the day light so we changed course and headed to another bay that had better anchoring, Puerto Carreto. We arrived just as the sun was setting, dropped our anchor and sat down when we noticed a small hand carved dugout coming our way. The welcome committee stopped by to say “hello” and welcome us to Panama. He handed us his line, and promptly jumped on the sugar scoop (whoa).  We both tried to communicate in our broken Spanish as he was a very nice Kuna Indian.

Puerto Carreto has a very small, primitive, ultra-traditional village in the northern corner of the bay.  Television, filming, and photography are banned.  Visitors are expected to leave the shore before dark, even though the villagers  are very friendly. Since we did not have documents to go ashore, we stayed on the boat.

In retrospect, we should have left Puetero Velero much later in the afternoon to try to arrive Puerto Obaldia in the morning – but hindsight is 20/20. Luckily, we were able to change course in time to arrive during the day light to another safe anchorage.  Had we waited until later in the day to change course we would not have been so lucky.  Puerto Obaldia will have to wait one more day for us.

DAY 2
• Total Daily Miles: 57
• Max Speed: 10.9 (from yesterday morning)
• Avg Speed: 6.1
• Hours Moving: 9
• Wind Avg: 15
• Wing Angle: Nose
• Wave Height Avg: >1 meter

Land a ho! Puerto Velero.

Land a ho! Puerto Velero.

Puerto Velero.

Puerto Velero.

See our next blog post to continue our voyage to Puerto Obaldia.