Tag Archives: port fitzroy

Great Barrier Becomes Great Again

We were anxious to get off the boat after the massive storm.  We needed to stretch our legs, enjoy the sunshine, and find gratitude in nature.  Several cruiser friends of ours were anchored near by so we enjoyed a few hikes on Great Barrier Island and a huge feast.

Glenfern Sanctuary Loop

We did this loop with our friends Dan and Lexi a month ago.  However, it is so very pretty that it is worth doing multiple times over.  The Glenfern Sanctuary Loop is an easy hike/walk that takes about 1-1.5hrs.

There were 8 of us from 4 different boats.  Roam: Jim and Pam, Chaos: Mark and Karen, Fundango: Scott and Joanne, and Sugar Shack.

Warrens Loop and Waterfall

The day after the massive storm we hiked Warrens Loop to a waterfall.  We figured the waterfall would be massive with all of the extra rain and it did not disappoint.

I thought the trail would be totally muddy, but it actually was not too bad.  This is another easy hike/walk that takes about 1hour.  Well marked trail through a super lush forest.

The waterfall was gushing with tons of water pouring out over the rocks.  It was stunning.

There was so much water that it was spilling over making multiple falls.

We took a different route on the way back.  We followed the river for about 100-200 yards, crossed over the river and came to another trail.  

We ended up crossing the river 3 times.

Port Frizroy

We moved to Port Fritzroy because we needed a change of scenery.  We were not planning on staying long as this is typically not a great anchorage. 

We had a super foggy morning that sure made everything look beautiful.

Matt went for a paddle board while I met our friends for breakfast.

Our friend boats were planning on doing dinner at the Port Fritzroy Boat Club.  It is a simple affair, but pretty tasty food.  

The next morning we went to Orama which is a Christian center that hosts Saturday morning breakfast.  

They had a small menu but everything was delicious!!  

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events.

We were at Great Barrier from mid-March to end of March 2026.

The Great Barrier Storm

One of the most significant draw backs to living on a boat is having to deal with the increment weather.  A storm was forecasted for the entire north island, especially, the northland area.  So, we specifically selected a “protected” bay called Kiwiriki Bay at Great Barrier Island to hide from the storm.

There are loads of bays and anchorages in Great Barrier. About 50-75 boats are in this general area spread across 5nm (noted in yellow below). 

We selected Kiwiriki Bay where we’ve anchored many times and have had very good holding.

We look at multiple weather sources using a variety of weather models.  Neither looked good.  We were in for bad weather for more than 48 hours.

Blue, green, yellow, and even orange are considered good to decent weather conditions.  Red, gray, and black are not good.

Below are two models from two sources. 

We are the small white dot. 

As you can see we have winds gusting to 45kts, lots of rain, and really unfavorable conditions.

NZ Met Service weather warning.

Kiwiriki Bay

We arrived at Kiwiriki Bay in Great Barrier Island a few days before the storm to claim a good, protected spot. 

There are 10 boats well spread out in Kiwiriki Bay.

We first dropped the hook at 36°11.95S / 175°21.02E in 7m of water with 60m of chain out.  We pulled back to 2400rpm and had  a strong jerk and bounce back indicating a solid hold.

During the start of the first night of the storm we saw 20-24kt of wind and we were holding good. 

By 10:30pm, we were seeing gusts 32-35kts. 

By 11p our first anchor alarm went off.  Of course, it is pitch black outside, sheets of rain coming down, and the wind is howling.

Matt put his dry suit on and I get my foul weather gear on.  Both suits soaked through.

We let out more scope, reset the bridle and wait.  The anchor alarm went off again.  

We set a secondary, fortress anchor off the starboard bow. 

This worked for a few hours as we nervously waited and watched.  But, no, the alarm went off again.

We decided to reset both anchors so back out into the rain we go.  It is somewhere around 2:30am by the time we get settled again.

We held in place but we were both up all night. 

By first light we decided to move to a different spot within Kiwiriki Bay.

2nd Anchor Spot

This time we dropped the hook at 36° 12.27S / 175°21.22E in 6m of water.  We splayed out 70m of chain and extended our bridle. 

The boat was swirling around so we decided not to get the 2nd anchor out.

It rained all day as the winds increased from a consistent 18-22kts with gusts to 38-40kts.  We were holding good.

Until we weren’t.  It was close to 11:00pm when our anchor alarm went off.  It had been blowing a consistent 40-42kts and the last big gust kicked us back 12 meters.  We both suited up in our wet gear and got ready to either re-anchor, move, or deploy the 2nd anchor. We sat, waited, and nothing.  She was holding again – even with the strong winds.

The storm started to dissipate leaving us with 25-30kts of wind which seemed like a huge reprieve.  We both slowly crawled into bed around 2:00am.

The Day After the Great Barrier Storm

We have several anchor watches and all looked like a bowl of spaghetti.  

The exception is the bottom photo.  There are 2 red marks and the top red mark is actually the track from the boat next to us.

Matt took some drone shots which showed the muddy brown water we were left with after the storm.  The mud came down the river from the mountains and turned the entire area into muck.

We are the 2nd catamaran from the bottom of both photos.

The sun was trying so hard to clear the sky and brighten our day.  You can see pockets of blue sky reflecting off the water below.

This is the river entrance during low tide.

I guess we don’t often share this side of the cruising lifestyle as it is truly no fun. 

This situation is my absolute least favorite thing about cruising. In the end, we were fine, the boat was fine, and all was ok. 

We are short 2 nights of sleep and had loads of soaking wet clothing, but we were ok.

Our blog posts run 4-6 weeks behind actual live events. 

We were in the storm at Great Barrier Island toward the end of March 2026.

Great Barrier Island

We are free!!!  Oh my goodness after almost 3 months in the marina we finally break ourselves free to do some sailing around New Zealand.  We’ve been tied to the dock doing boat projects and meeting with different vendors and have not had a moment to go sailing until now.  We decide to head to Great Barrier island first and if time and weather permits, Mercury Island.

It is a slow motor down the Whangarei River.  We request permission to have the Te Matau a Pohe “Hook Bridge” open so we may pass under.  Still an amazing thing to see!

It is a beautiful day, albeit light wind on the nose.  We raise the main sail and continue on a motor sail as we don’t even have enough wind for the jib.  We pass by the Hen and Chickens Islands.  I just love their names.

Kaikoura Potato Bay

We approached Great Barrier Island and made the last minute decision to go to Smokehouse Bay which is supposed to be a nice boatie/cruiser bay.  However, when we approached we saw that there were close to 30 boats anchored there – so we stopped short and anchored in Kaikoura Bay also known as Potato Bay.  We had this beautiful bay all to ourselves.

We were expecting some ugly winds so we moved the following morning to a new bay.

Wairahi Bay

There were still a lot of boats at Smokehouse Bay so we decided to go to a bay just past it (still in Great Barrier Island).  We arrived to Wairahi Bay with 3 other boats.  Perfect!  From here we can easily visit the other bays within the western side of Great Barrier Island. We hang out in this anchorage for over  a week.  Several other boats joined us in this anchorage, but it is big enough to not feel crowded.

First, we explore the river that feeds into Wairahi Bay.  Matt took the SUP up the river during high and low tide so that he felt comfortable taking the dinghy with me.  It is so cool to be surrounded by hillsides, overhanging trees, and hidden houses. 

I spotted at least 5 hidden “baches” (summer houses) in the trees.

Smokehouse Bay

About 1 mile down from our anchorage is a popular spot called Smokehouse Bay.  It is a place created for locals and cruisers/boaties.  This as the anchorage that was incredibly busy when we first arrived. However, the weather changed which made this a very uncomfortable anchorage so everyone cleared out when we visited.  This is a shot during low tide (top) and high tide (bottom).

The facilities in this bay were provided by the late Eric Webster and his many friends.  Locals and cruisers maintain the property and equipment.  The Weber family placed Smokehouse Bay under the protection of the Queen National Trust as an open space covenant for the public whilst remaining in private ownership.

A massive rain storm destroyed Smokehouse Bay in November 2005.  Everything was covered in mud and debris and it took over a year to rebuild the facilities.

What can you enjoy at Smokehouse Bay?

  • Pizza Oven
  • Smokehouse (perfect for smoking fresh catch)
  • Grills
  • Laundry hand crank basins and clothes lines
  • (2) showers including 1 that offers hot water from a wood burning stove
  • Free book trade library
  • Toilets
  • Outdoor seating area around a bonfire
  • Great hikes on the 5 hectres (50 acres)

We enjoyed the entire bay to ourselves because it was inclement weather and all the boats left for a more protected anchorage.  We hiked to the summit and had excellent views of the bay.

Port Fitzroy

The most populated bay in Great Barrier Island is Port Fitzroy.  It is where you can get fuel and some supplies.  Super cute little town with a market, library, visitor center, and burger joint.  The town is the top photo.

There are two great hikes in this bay.  One starts from the center of town and leads you to a beautiful waterfall and the other is across the bay and leads you to a spectacular crows-nest view.

We decide to do the waterfall hike first, since we were already in town and it is only a 40minute hike to the falls.  But it is straight up.   First, you clean your shoes with a spray and scrub…then off you go down the path.

About 40-minutes, 300+ stairs, and 1.5 miles  later we arrive at the triple waterfall.

We take a moment to enjoy the beauty around us, dip our toes in (its freezing), and head back.

Next we take our dinghy across the bay and leave it at the dock (red arrow).  We then hike to the valley (green arrow on right), up to the peak and back down to the dock.  Super good hike.

At the top of the peak is a swing bridge that leads you to a 600-year old Kauri tree.  Once at the tree, you can climb up to the crows-nest to get a spectacular view of the bay.

As we make our way back down the hill we take a turn off to Sunset Rock.  I bet this would be wonderful to watch the sunset…

All in all we hiked 10.5 kilometers or 6.5 miles.  We were a bit bushed when we got back to the boat.

Historic Floods

We ended up spending a little more time in Great Barrier due to bad weather.  Lucky for us we were tucked away in the perfect anchorage for inclement weather.  Evidently this is a once in 50 year flood and yet it happened twice within a week!

Everything was flooded including the airport, grocery stores, and busses!

And of course the streets and highways.

We weather the second storm at a different bay called Karaka Bay at Great Barrier.   This was the calm before the storm.

Some more beautiful photos from Karaka Bay

I just love the stunning motus, rock formations, and islands.

Our friends captured us heading up the river, n our way back to the marina.

Events from this blog occurred in late January 2023.  Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  Don’t miss our last blog where we explore the Lost Springs.