Category Archives: Daily Lime

Marina Papeete Sunset

Tahiti Madness Part I

A big part of me dreads coming to Tahiti.  First, because it is the epicenter for the pandemic.  The majority of the cases in French Polynesia are in Tahiti and people visiting this area have brought the virus back to the outer islands.  So, we have to be extra careful here to avoid catching covid.  Second, it means we have tons of chores, errands, and tasks which are exhausting.  And third, we will be spending loads of money.  It is why I call it Tahiti Madness when we come here.  A whirl wind of organized chaos and this visit is no different.

We arrived in Papeete around 10:15 from Huahine.  We had hoped to arrive much earlier.  In retrospect, we should have left on Sunday and arrived on Monday, but you know, hind sight is 20/20.  Our goal was to find a slip at Marina Papeete so we would have easy access to the downtown stores for a few days.  Then we thought we would move out to the anchorage and finish the rest of our errands from a different location.

The wind was blowing pretty darn good causing white caps in and around the marina.  Not a good sign as it can be challenging to maneuver the boat into a slip in those conditions.  But we got lucky as our friends on Garulfo helped us into the slip (after two false starts).  

Off to the Races – Day 1

After we secured the boat, we had to run to an appointment with the U.S. Consulate.  We were scheduled to meet him at 1100, but missed that time.  He graciously said he would wait for us if we could get there before 1200.  Well, that ruled out the bus because their schedule is on island time.  So, we hopped in a cab for the 10-mile journey.  $30 later we arrived, hopped out, and ran to the photo store to get Matt’s passport photo.  Then upstairs to the U.S. Consulate. (Stay tuned for a blog post called “Passport and Visa Mess” coming soon)

It was a huge relief to get that passport renewal process started.  Once we returned downtown, we headed for the marina office.  We needed to let them know we arrived, pay for the slip, obtain a security card, and load money on another card for our electricity and water.  Super nice folks at Marina Papeete!  Now that we are legal we headed to a late lunch because we were starved.

After lunch, we swung by two sporting goods stores to see if they had a volleyball and volleyball net for our friends in Gambiers (Herve and Valerie).  Remarkably, we found both, noted the prices and headed back to the boat. We needed to confirm with them that they still wanted these items and had not bought them since the last time we were there.

Marina Work

Back at the marina, Matt took advantage of the cheap water and washed down the boat.  It was incredibly salty from our passage and needed a good rinse.

As Matt was working on the outside, I was working on paperwork for our long-stay visa renewals and Matt’s passport. 

Before we knew it, it was time for the net and I was net controller.  As I’m wrapping up the net, I hear someone tell Matt that we have to move.  We are in their private slip.  Seriously!  Ugh.  I wrap up the net quickly, enlist our friends on Garulfo again, and we move 4 slips down on the same pier.  This spot was taken earlier so we were super happy it was available now.  The winds had virtually stopped and with the help of our friends, we eased in with no issues.

To wrap up our first day of Tahiti madness, we had happy hour on Garulfo.  It was a short night as we were exhausted from the lack of sleep during our previous passage night.

Tahiti Madness – Day 2

We slept long and hard waking up refreshed and ready for our busy day.  There was lots of ground to cover so we got started early.  Left the boat at 0730 and headed for the industrial area which is 1.2 miles away.  Matt needed to purchase bearings for the water maker.  Lucky for us, the guy had exactly what we needed and within 5 minutes we were walking toward our second stop, the Champion grocery store.  This will be the first of many grocery runs.  Back to the boat to drop off the first load.

Ocean 2000, a marine store was our next stop.  They close at 12n so we had to hustle to make it there on time.  We picked up the red button for the Yamaha kill switch, teak oil for our exterior wood, fuses, some other bits.  On the way back toward the boat, we stopped in Maxi’s which is a store where you can buy food in bulk (like Costco or Sam’s).  We had to be careful here as we could only buy what we could carry.  Unfortunately, we went overboard buying in bulk (minced garlic, snacks, ziplock bags, salsa, peanut butter, etc…).  Will have to come back for round 2.

Loaded down, we started the long walk back to the marina.  On the way, we made one more stop to Olympian Sports to buy the volleyball net and ball.  It was on the way, but seriously I needed a break from carrying the bags.  We continued on to the marina and unloaded our 2nd load.  This photo shows only the first load, we return to the market and bulk store the next day and the fresh market right before we left Papeete.

The Madness Continues

A quick lunch at the market, and off we go again.  We are in full blown Tahiti madness mode.   A mile later we arrive to Sing Tung Hung another marine store where we grab a few items.  Then we stop at Ace hardware (2 stores) for more boat supplies (cleaning agents, brushes, silicone, blue tape, etc…). A quick stop at the bank for local currency and back to the boat for the 3rd time.

Finally, back at the boat, but we are not done yet.  The sun is still up and there is work to do.  Matt starts working on removing the main sail.  (Look for the post “Main Sail Maintenance” coming soon).  As Matt is working outside, I work on stowing our goodies.  It’s not as easy as you’d think as we remove all packaging (cardboard attracts bugs), label all lids with content and expiry date, wrap blue tape on all metal items (cans), and then stow it safely on the boat.

We walked over 8 miles today, most of it schlepping bags.  No wonder my body is protesting!

Sunset in the marina

Coming up next, more of our Tahiti madness adventures.

Events from this blog occurred on 21 October 2020.  Our blog posts run 8 weeks behind our adventures.

Celebration of Life: Eddie

We met the boat “September AM” in Tahuata a few months ago.  Onboard was Barbara and Harry and their two kids Eddie and Amelie.  Super sweet and amazing family.  Eddie and Amelie are both musicians and are very passionate about sharing their love of music.  Eddie was brilliant, compassionate, inquisitive, kind, helpful, and a truly genuine soul.

Several months after we met them, we ran into them in Papeete Marina where I introduced them to my sister.  However, we left shortly thereafter to begin the Konis Tour.  September AM had decided to move over to Mo’orea for the weekend which is only a short 25nm sail.  When they dropped the hook in Oponohu Bay tragedy struck. 

Tragic Accident

Cruisers swim on their anchor – it is a common practice and frankly, an expected one.  What does that mean?  After you drop the hook, you jump in the water to make sure the anchor is buried and not encumbered by anything (bommies, pipes, etc…).  Notably, this helps ensure your boat is secured and safe and protects the environment.

Eddie, a 14-year old son, brother, and crew member of September AM jumped into the water to check their anchor.  It is something he has done hundreds of times in dozens of anchorages.  He was a mere 2 meters away from the boat when a rented, speeding, motor boat, driven by a distracted tourist ran over Eddie. 

One, the tour boat company does not require any special license to rent or drive the boat.  Two, the tourist was unfamiliar with boating protocols (you don’t drive that close to anchored boats) or speed in those areas.  Three, the driver was not paying attention to the waters, but was chatting with a female companion.  In other words, a cataclysmic accident.  As a result, the Polynesian government opened a wrongful death investigation 5 days after the accident.  Not sure why it took 5 days to open. Hopefully, justice will be served.

Eddie did not survive this accident, but the memory of his beautiful soul will live on forever.

Celebration of Life: Eddie

The family decided to have a celebration of life Polynesian surfer style.  What does that mean?  People gather on the water, form a circle, hold hands, say prayers, share memories, and the release flowers into the sea.  This is called a Polynesian Paddle Out.

There was one small problem.  The family was located in Papeete, Tahiti. Cruisers everywhere wanted to celebrate with them.  So, we spread the word on Social Media, local media, and SSB nets.

We asked that everyone share photos from their celebration so the family could see the overwhelming show of love and support.  It is truly a blessing to see the cruising community come together for those in need. 

Photos from Maupiti (where Matt, Yannel, Missy and I) were located

We had a few local ladies from the church say a prayer and sing a beautiful Polynesian song just before releasing the flowers.

Cruisers made floral reefs, floral necklaces, boats, floats, and arrangements.  All dedicated during the ceremony.

Papeete had the largest crowd of well over 100 people. Respecting the social distancing and wearing masks.

People held Celebrations at:

  • Sandwich Bay, England
  • Papeete, French Polynesia
  • Mo’orea, French Polynesia (Cook’s Bay and Oponohu Bay)
  • Raiatea, French Polynesia (two anchorages)
  • Maupiti, French Polynesia
  • Huahine, French Polynesia (South and North Bay)
  • Taha’a, French Polynesia
  • Tahuata, Marquesas, French Polynesia
  • Marshall Islands
  • Isla San Marcos, Mexico
  • San Blas, Guna Yala, Panama
  • Bocas, Panama
  • United Kingdom
  • Malolo Lailai Island, Fiji
  • Bay of Virgins, New Zealand
  • South Coast France
  • Marazion, Cornwall
  • New Caldonia
  • Liencres, Spain
  • Hermosa Beach, California
  • San Diego
  • San Francisco
  • Seattle

In addition to the celebration of life, the family had the casket designed and drawn by a local tattoo artist.  – Mana’o Tattoo Studio Tahiti who stepped up at the last minute to create this amazing tribute on his casket.  The symbols and designs represent Eddie’s life, dreams, and interests.

Equally important, the family created a Just Giving Page to help raise $15,000 to transport the casket and his body back home to the U.K.  The family will use any additional monies to create a fund to help children with education and music.  Please contribute.

Together with the support of the local community, their friends and family and the cruising community, the family was able to raise enough money (15,000 euros) to bring Eddie’s body home.

Here Is a link to the video of the TV interview in French Polynesia

Instead of focusing on this horrific accident, we are rejoicing in his life and the fact that the cruising community came together for this family.

Remembering Eddie…after all it is about loving thy neighbor. In the hope that we all can change, be aware, be careful, and respect the water.

This post was written in August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.  

The Society Islands Welcome the Konis’s: Part II

Be sure to read The Society Islands Welcome the Konis’s Part I to catch up on their adventures in Tahiti, Mo’orea, Huahine Nui, and Huahine Iti.

Day 8: Raiatea

We arrived in the sleepy little town of Uturoa on Raiatea.  Unfortunately for us, everything was closed being that it was Sunday.  We grabbed a mooring ball next to a small motu giving the boys a destination to SUP to.

Matt and I wanted to take the Konis’s on a hike, but even that was closed.  It was a hike to the top of the mountain where there is a radio tower and a beautiful view of the bay.  We hiked this trail several times and were sorely disappointed that it was marked as private property now.

Our friends on Maple were anchored nearby so they came over to hang out with us.  We blew up our new float which we could not decide if it was a dragon or a Pegasus. 

Maple had a small surf board and tried to teach Cole and Cameron to surf but the board was too small.  Matt decides to show off and popped up on the 2nd try.  Of course, he has spent years and years on wake and surf boards.

The boys having fun off the bow of the boat.

Cole and Cameron

Cole and Cameron

Day 9:  Taha’a

It is a short 9nm motor from Raiatea to Taha’a which both share the same lagoon.  We dropped the hook in one of our favorite spots off of Ilot Tautau also known as the “coral gardens.”  Anchored in turquoise, sandy bottom water looking over toward Bora Bora.  Ignore the “day 7” on the photo as it is wrong.

Taha’a is our favorite island in the Society Island Archipelago.

The famous drift snorkel of the coral gardens has to be experienced to truly appreciate the natural beauty of this aquarium.  You slowly drift over coral and witness first hand the stunning life under the sea.  The top photo is looking down the coral garden path and the bottom photo is underwater photo.

Coral Gardens

Coral Gardens

We found lots of fish wanting to play and discover what crazy things we were up to in their habitat.

Coral Gardens Fish

Coral Gardens Fish

Everyone enjoyed the spectacular experience.  (again ignore the date on the photo is wrong).

Snorkeling the Coral Gardens

Snorkeling the Coral Gardens

Kimberly did me a huge favor by trimming my hair which had not been cut in over a year.  It was so ratty!

We had beautiful views of the Bora Bora caldera from our perch at Taha’a.

Day 10: Taha’a

One of our favorite tours in French Polynesia is the Taha’a Vanilla and Botanical Garden Tour by Noah.  We booked a tour for the Konis family and Noah let me tag along for free.  Noah was born and raised in Taha’a and is an accomplished aeronautical engineer but has decided to live his life in Taha’a.  He picks you up in a open air jeep filled with fresh, flavored water and reviews his route before beginning.

Taha'a Vanilla Tour

Taha’a Vanilla Tour

He pointed out the Kapok tree which is used for stuffing (mattresses, pillows), female papaya trees and the elephant ears or Tahitian umbrellas.

We swang by a pretty church and point out an old baguette box (not a mail box, but a baguette box).

We venture to an organic vanilla farm where he teaches you how the vanilla is grown

He then shows you how to manually pollinate each of the flowers (see our previous blog on this process).  They cover the flowers to prevent the birds from eating them  The bottom 3 photos on the right show beans at a few weeks, then a few months and finally at 5 months.

We pass by some beautiful views around the island.

He brings us a large fern so we can give ourselves tatoos.

We learn about copra and sugar cane farming (used for rhum).

And we end up at the Pari Pari Taha’a Rhum distillery where we learn how they make rhum, essential oils, and spices.

Day 11: Taha’a

A new day and a great excuse to swim the coral gardens again!  This time there was barely any current at all.  You could actually hover in once place admiring the beautiful corals and fish.  We had a great photo op at a small motu just off Le Taha’a Motu.

The Konis family spoiled Matt and I by taking us to lunch at the exclusive Le Taha’a resort.  It was beautiful and super tasty, but rather pricey.  This is what I picture when I think of resorts in the Society Islands.

Le Taha'a Lunch

Le Taha’a Lunch

Super fancy day making us all feel like royalty.

Day 12: Taha’a to Bora Bora

I know Kimberly was especially looking forward to going to Bora Bora, but I was not. Mostly because it meant the end of their visit with us.  Bora Bora is the most famous island in the Society Island Archipelago next to Tahiti.

It is a short 20nm passage from Taha’a to Bora Bora but it offers many breathtaking views of the islands.  We had fun on the bow with the Bora Bora caldera in the background.

We picked up a mooring near Motu To’opua in beautiful light blue waters.  It was a hot day so we jumped in the water in search of sting ray city only to be thwarted by its location.  After drying off we decided to head into town for some lunch and shopping.

Bora Bora

Bora Bora

After a bit of shopping and discovering we headed back to the boat for some more water time.

DAY 13: Bora Bora

We watched several tour boats stop at a location just at the reef which we assumed was sting ray city.  So, we hopped in Sweetie and joined the crowd.  It sure did not disappoint. There were dozens of black tip sharks and sting rays wanting to be admired.

Afterwards, we walked from Bloody Mary’s to Matira Beach which was about 1.5 miles.  It is a pretty beach, albeit with some coral.  We hung out, played some bacchi and cooled off in the sparkling waters.

We cleaned up and took the Konis family to Bloody Mary’s for dinner.  You can’t come to Bora without visiting Bloody Mary’s.

Bloody Mary's in Bora Bora

Bloody Mary’s in Bora Bora

We selected our meals from the fresh bar, enjoyed many cocktails and a fun filled evening!

Day 14: Bora Bora

Today was a sad day because my sister and her beautiful family were heading home.  We spent the day wrapping coral and packing as we made the 5-mile trip to Motu Tehotu where the airport is located.  The boys enjoying the bean bags for one final trip.  Kimberly touching the water from her escape hatch (me taking the photo from the starboard escape hatch) and a beautiful rainbow as a parting gift.

The new anchoring rules prohibit anchoring anywhere near the airport so Matt circled the big boat as I took the Konis family in two trips.

It is heartbreaking to say goodbye to my family.  I text with my sister daily, but it still is hard to be so far away from her and the family.

The Konis clan flew to Tahiti from Bora Bora and had 9 hours to kill so they hung out at the Tahiti Intercontinental hotel for their last moments of Polynesian Sun.  Mo’orea is in the background.

Some more random fun photos of my amazing family, Troy, Kimberly, Cole and Cameron Konis.

Cameron and Cole underwater fun

Cameron and Cole underwater fun

Just some of the beauty in the Society Islands.

I know the Konis family enjoyed the Society Islands as much as we did. It was so much fun to showcase these amazing islands.

P.S.  For those of you wondering, this was still during the covid pandemic.  The Konis’s had to get tested 72 hours before their flight and present the negative results.  Then they had to do two self-tests on day 4 and submit them to the local medical authorities which was negative.

Lucky for us the Society Islands had procedures in place to handle the covid pandemic and tourists.

This post on the Konis family in the Society Islands was written in July/August 2020.  Our blog posts are usually 6 to 7 weeks behind are true adventures.