Category Archives: Panama Atlantic

Islands on the Atlantic side of Panama

The liquor stash.

Zona Libre Alcohol Extravaganza

Matt and I had visited the “Free Zone” called Zona Libre de Colon  before and it was not a pleasant experience.  We had been dropped off without a map and no knowledge of how to get around to find what we needed.  With almost 2,000 store fronts, warehouses, dozens of districts, and limited street signage it is incredibly difficult to get around or find anything.

Yet, some how, Matt and I managed to find a liquor store, that sold in bulk, but would not deliver to Linton Bay marina where our boat was located.  So, we left without buying anything. On our second visit we were better prepared.  I had the name and address of a wholesale liquor store that delivered and our taxi driver had a map of the Zona Libre area – it does not show all the details or the entire area.  There are blocks and blocks of stores in each district.  This is the area that has “guides” on street corners to help you get around, but the most efficient way to shop this area is by car.

Zona Libre map

Zona Libre map

Our friends on “Uno Mas” decided to accompany us to share expenses and get their own stash as well.  The second time around, we hired a taxi driver named Victor (WhatsApp +507 6767 9617) who spoke English, picked us up at the marina, provided funny conversation, and drove us directly inside Zona Libre.  The other great thing was that the Shelter Bay Marina office had given me the name of a liquor distributor called Riamiar Int. but they were not sure they could deliver.  A few days prior to our adventure, our friends on “Element” had ventured to the free zone and purchased a large quantity of alcohol from Riamiar as well which was a complete coincidence.

Zona Libre entrance.

Zona Libre entrance.

We easily found Riamiar with the address (Calle 15 and Calle F) and a handy map and wouldn’t you know it – it’s the same place that Matt and I found the first time we came here.  We are so good and we don’t even know it!  The store front is really this small!

Rimiar Int. liquor distributor.

Rimiar Int. liquor distributor.

The “store front” is very small, maybe 20×20 with one bottle of almost everything they have.  Matt is one side of the store and note the stanchions just in front of him.

Matt on one side of the small store.

Matt on one side of the small store.

Here is the other side of the store, which happens to be the other side of the stanchions.  As you can tell, the store is jammed packed floor to ceiling, wall to wall liquor.

The other side, of Rimiar Int.

The other side, of Rimiar Int.

We asked for the manager and Humberto Terrado C the ejecutivo de ventas (sales manager) came out to bring us back to his office.  Humberto can be reached at +507 441 4971 or recardof@cwpanama.net.  We told him what we wanted and he told us what types or brands he had, the quantity, and the cost per case or bottle.  It was a dance.  This is Matt and I with Angie and Mark (“Uno Mas”) and Humberto behind the desk.

Inside Humberto's office placing our order.

Inside Humberto’s office placing our order.

We are purchasing a mass amount of liquor because it is very hard to find any liquor in the Pacific.  And when you do find it, the costs are exorbitant.  So, we decided to stock up for the next year.

Seco Herrerano is an alcoholic drink made from sugar cane.   Humberto let us taste the mandarin and I bought 4 cases.  The bottom is a different flavor, cranberry.  Both are super tasty and refreshing drink – will be good over ice on a hot day.

Herrerano alcoholic Drink - 5 cases

Herrerano alcoholic Drink – 5 cases

Then the real purchase started.  Don’t judge, we hope that this will last us throughout the year with all of our guests (and longer if possible).

The liquor stash.

The liquor stash.

The only disappointing thing was that Rimiar did not sell local beer.  They sold American beer and we just did not want to go there.   So, Victor took us to Lang’s but they did not have the type of beer we wanted, so we went to Super 99 which only had what was on the shelf.  Low on stock as we are close to Carnival.  We purchased everything on the shelf – 13 cases.

The beer stash - or at least the start of it.

The beer stash – or at least the start of it.

Damage done (most are in liter bottles) at Zona Libre:

  • (7) Cases of Abuelo Rum ($5.83/bottle)
  • (1) Case of Sperone Prosecco ($5.85/bottle)
  • (1) Case of Barefoot Rose (not up to the Barker standard, but refreshing on the lido deck) ($3/bottle)
  • (1/2) case of Tito’s Vodka ($11/bottle)
  • (3) Bottles of Veuve Cliquiot ($36/bottle)
  • (3) Bottles of Freixinet ($4/bottle)
  • (1) Case of JP Chenet ($7/botttle)
  • (4) cases of Seco Herrerano Mandarin ($0.58/can)
  • (1) case Seco Herrerano Passion Fruit ($0.58/can)
  • Delivery and customs $100
  • Taxi driver $60 + $20 tip as he was fantastic driving us all over the place
  • Beer bought at the store ($0.49/can)

As you can see, the prices were amazing and probably the lowest we’ve seen yet.  I am sure we will need more beer as that goes down like water, but everything else should last us for awhile – if not, then we just go without as finding it in the Pacific will be rare.

Successful inspection and ad measure.

Panama Canal Inspection and Ad Measure

Transiting the Panama Canal is a once in a lifetime experience.  But it is also expensive, requires a Panama Canal Inspection with a lot of paperwork, and can be dangerous for your boat.  We spoke to many cruisers, did a lot of research, and changed our minds several times before we decided to transit the canal and leave the Atlantic ocean.  It is a big decision as very few boats come back to the Atlantic (there is no easy way to return).

Once you decide to transit the canal, you have to decide whether or not to hire an agent.  After interviewing 5 agents, we decided to go with Erick Galvez.  An agent can guarantee your bond so you do not have to put an $800 deposit down, will assist with all of the paperwork, schedule the inspection and ad measure, provide fenders and lines (required for transit), and be your advocate.  Various agents charge different amounts, but Erick charges $350 and for us it is well worth it.  He has been exceedingly responsive, professional, and helpful in all of his communications.  See below for transit costs.

The first thing you need to do is submit a pertinent information on your boat to get a “Ship ID.”  This includes boat specifications, speed under motor, and the last 10 ports you have visited.  We submitted that information to Erick and a few days later he provided us with our Ship ID number  – we are official.

After you receive your Ship ID you need to be inspected and measured (which is called “Ad measure”).  In order to get your Panama Canal inspection you need to be in Shelter Bay Marina or the flats so the Panama Canal agent can board the boat.  The flats are used as a staging area for boats preparing to transit the canal and the holding is not very good.  So, we decided to go to Shelter Bay Marina.

Within an hour of arrival, Erick stopped by our boat to introduce himself.  He went over a few basics for the inspection and instructed us on what to request for positioning during the transit.

The inspector arrived the next day and went through various documents.  He asked us where we wanted to be located in the transit – we asked for “center chamber”.  You don’t want to be near the sidewall as you could damage your mast.  He asked if we wanted to tied to a tug and we held firm on the negative as the rub rail from the tug could damage our life lines and stanchions.  He asked if we wanted to be nested and we said “sure.”  Typically, they will put a catamaran in the middle and tie a monohull on either side.  Great for us as we are protected in the center and are the power for controlling movement of all nested vessels.

He asked some interesting questions:

  • How much fuel will we have during the transit? (full tanks)
  • How fast can you go under motor? (6-7 knots is our comfort speed)
  • What RPM are you at to make that speed? (2k-2400)
  • How much fuel would you consume in 24 hours at that RPM? (192 liters or 50 gal)
Reviewing paper work with Panama Canal Inspector

Reviewing paper work with Panama Canal Inspector

The inspector reviews the process for transiting the Panama Canal.  The day before the transit date, our agent will drop off our rented fenders and lines and the Canal authority will schedule our transit time.  Typically, transits from Atlantic to the Pacific start at 1600 (and 0400 from Pacific to Atlantic).

An adviser boards every boat to assist with the transit and it is our responsibility to provide him with hot meals, water, and a working head (toilet).  So, the inspector checked our bathrooms to ensure they were suitable.  He also wanted to hear our handheld horn to ensure we had a way to communicate a warning.

Then it was time to measure the boat.  He takes out a giant tape measure and while Matt holds one end at the bow he walks to the stern and says “49.7 feet do you agree?”  What!  No way, we are a 47 catamaran with no bow sprit, and nothing sticking off the sterns (the davits and dinghy do not pass the sugar scoops).  He measured the slope down the stairs.  The reason I am flipping out is because the transit cost jumps $500+ if you hit 50′ in length.  But, he corrected it once on the dock and came back with 46.9′ which made me beam from ear to ear!

Ad measure for Panama Canal Transit

Ad measure for Panama Canal Transit

Our inspector does some more calculations to complete the paperwork:

Inspector calculations

Inspector calculations

And we are handed our official SHIP ID, Panama Canal Transit pamphlet and lockage request.

Official Panama Canal Inspection Complete

Official Panama Canal Inspection Complete

Panama Canal inspection complete.  Job well done!  We successfully completed the inspection, ad measure and paperwork and have a transit date of 6 March 2018.  We specifically scheduled it a month out so we could have our friends fly in from the United States to transit the Panama Canal with us.

Successful inspection and ad measure.

Successful inspection and ad measure.

Added notes:

  • Typical scheduling time from inspection to transit is 4-6 days, but with this busy season it is 2-3 weeks.
  • We over compensated and asked for a date 4 weeks out to ensure our guests had plenty of time to travel to Panama.

Busiest time of the year to transit:

  • We came into SBM just as the ARC (Atlantic Rally Crossing) of 38 boats completed their transit.
  • Carnival is scheduled to start in a few days and Panama will shut down for the 4 day celebration

Panama Canal Expenses:  $1,504.00

  • $800.00  Transit fee for boats 49′ and under (50′-80′ cost is $1300)
  • $350.00  Agent fee
  • $  54.00  Transit  inspection
  • $130.00  Transit security fee
  • $  75.00  Fender and line rental (real fenders and not tires covered with trash bags)
  • $  60.00  Bank fees
  • $  35.00  Check out fee
  • The above does not include the marina fees for 8-9 days (approx. $1k), fuel, extra food/beverages to feed line handlers, stay at Balboa Yacht Club on the other side ($500)
Because it is always time for a beer.

Shelter Bay Marina and Sailing Community

A few months ago, I had posted a few inquiries on the Panama Cruisers Facebook Page and received a lot of feedback.  One of the responses was from Juan Jo, the manager at Shelter Bay Marina.  We had several correspondences over the next few weeks and he proved to be very helpful, professional, and super friendly.

There is a marvelous sailing community here at Shelter Bay Marina (SBM) with several boats staying on as permanent residents on the hard or in the slip.  I can see why as the marina offers several wonderful amenities.

The main building houses the marina office, restaurant, bar, and upstairs captain’s lounge.

Shelter Bay Marina main restaurant.

Shelter Bay Marina main restaurant.

A few steps to the left of the main building is a strip where you can find a fairly well stocked mini-market, chandlery, and gym.

Mini market, chandlery, gym at Shelter Bay Marina.

Mini market, chandlery, gym at Shelter Bay Marina.

They have a beautiful pool and hot tub where they offer water aerobics daily at 1600.

Pool and hot tub at SBM

Pool and hot tub at SBM

Each night they have happy hour from 1700-2000 with $1.50 beer and $2 rum drinks.  The cruisers come together to share war stories, information on the crossing and general fun.

This is Matt’s and our friend Mark from “Una Mas”  motto:

Because it is always time for a beer.

Because it is always time for a beer.

They also have a really cool sail loft that used to be a movie theater.  The sail loft has a sweet little herb garden for the cruisers and a wall where you can write your boat name for posterity.

Sail loft in abandoned theater.

Sail loft in abandoned theater.

A cruisers palapa for gatherings, happy hour, and Sunday funday.

Cruiser Palapa

Cruiser Palapa

The marina also has many activities throughout the week including:

  • Movie night
  • Open mic night
  • Sunday Funday at the  Cruisers Palapa
  • Christian studies
  • Water Aerobics
  • Nature hikes