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Rachel’s Death March – Mt. Pahia

Bora bora has several mountainous peaks.  One set of peaks looks like the profile of a man (with a “Whoville nose”) and jutted chin – squint hard and use your imagination when looking at the photo below (forehead on left, then eyebrow, then nose that looks like a person from Whoville, mouth then jutted chin.  Comment below if you can see the face.  Rachel decided it was time for a hike which we later learned is aka for “death march.” This expedition would take us to the top of Mt Pahia.

Mt. Pahia in Bora Bora

Mt. Pahia in Bora Bora

We had hiked Mt. Duff in Gambiers several months ago.  Rachel (Voyages of Agape) learned that both mountains were relatively the same height (Duff at 1500’ and Pahia at 2200’).  Should be “similar” hikes.  All sorts of wrong there!  We each started out with large bottles of water and great attitudes.  Our goal was to make it to the eyebrow (right where the telephone wire intersects the mountain in the top photo).

Start of Mt. Pahia hike

Start of Mt. Pahia hike

Maps.me instructed us to turn right at the Eurocar.  This is important as you will see toward the end of this post.  We happily greeted some locals camping out in the yard as we were starting up the road toward the trail.  One older man pointed to the mountain and we all gleefully nodded our heads as we passed.  Immediately following, we heard a guttural laughter coming from the old man.  What did he know that we did not know?

We were following a small dirt road that lead up the mountain.  Periodically we would be rewarded with spectacular views.  You could not help but to stop and admire this gift.

First view from Mt. Pahia hike

First view from Mt. Pahia hike

The Fun Begins

The path was marked with a red and white ribbon found on trees every 10-15 meters.  Which was a good thing as many times you could not tell where the path was due to fallen trees, debris, rocks, etc.  We Climbed up and over or under the trees which provided a great leg work out.

Then came the rappelling.  We had heard that there were several places that had strategically placed ropes to help you get up (or down) the mountainside.  Sometimes they were there because it was muddy and slippery.  While other times providing the only means of moving up and ahead on Mt. Pahia.   One of the easier rappels where I have a smile on my face.

Me rappelling up the mountain

Me rappelling up the mountain

Here is a shot of Nicola rappelling up the cliff side.

Nicola rappelling up hill

Nicola rappelling up hill

There were lots of instances where no ropes were provided and you just had to rock climb up the cliff side. Over trees, branches and fallen hillside.

Josh patiently waiting for me

Josh patiently waiting for me

Josh and Rachel are big rock climbers, on top of being young and super fit.  They often waited for me to catch up – thank goodness.

Josh & Rachel waiting for me

Josh & Rachel waiting for me

Views are breathtaking!

A little rest stop with a view of the bay.  The bottom photo is of a young shoot just waiting to turn into a branch.  It also reminded me of Whoville (The Grinch Who Stole Christmas).

Pretty views along our hike

Pretty views along our hike

Stunning Views

The views get more amazing as we get closer to the top.  On the top photo, in the center of the lagoon is a helicopter that flew by.  Notice how far below he was flying compared to our location.

3/4 of the way up to the top

3/4 of the way up to the top

Matt made it to the top of the Mt. Pahia first and he did it in flip flops!  Not sure how that man did that as I was way behind him.  Josh and Rachel made it to the top next and were celebrating with a hoop and a holler.

We had scaled over rocks, rappelled up 12+ spots on the mountain, climbed over and under fallen trees, and sweated out all of our rum drinks from the previous night.  The overall climb was 4 miles, 10,300 steps and 78 floors.  We had all completed a lot more on other mountains, but this was a challenging one!  Maybe because it was a full body workout with the rappelling, maybe the heat, maybe the conditions, who knows.

The Summit Mt. Pahia

We made it!  What a relief, what joy, what a view!  A well deserved rest before the photo shoot begins.

Summit rest break

Summit rest break

And the photo shoot begins.

Summit at the top

Summit at the top

It was breathtaking at the top.  And not only because we literally had no breath, but because it was so beautiful.  It was a lot to take in after such a laboring hike.

Photos at the top of Mt. Pahia

Photos at the top of Mt. Pahia

The four of us at the top of Mt. Pahia with the other peak in the background.

Top Mt Pahia

Top Mt Pahia

The four of us at the top with the bay in the background.

Top Mt Pahia

Top Mt Pahia

Now, the hard part, going down.  Most people preferring going down a mountain.  However, I had hurt my knees hiking the Grand Canyon when I was in my 20’s and they have never been the same.  If I walk the switch back down I am usually pretty good.  However, this trail was way too small to do that and there were a dozen rappelling sections.  Even after a 30-minute rest at the summit, my legs were still shaking and I was exhausted.  Should be interesting…

The Descent

The most difficult rappel is the first one down.  It is about 150’ straight down.  I just kept telling myself that I was given a second chance at life (after beating breast cancer) and I needed to live it fully.  I was terrified.  Yet, with every step, my foot found a spot to land, my hands held tight to the rope and I descended.  Slowly, but surely, each painstaking step was made.  Another set of hikers had told us about an “easier” trail to go down.  It was “shorter” and not as steep but landed you in Fa’anui instead of Vaiati where the dinghy was left.  We could figure out that problem once we made it down the mountain.

The challenging part was wanting to rest but not resting too long.  If you rested too long your legs cramped up so you had to keep going.  There were many instances where I went down on my butt.  Oh, how I wished Lulu Lemon had padded shorts!  By the 7th or 8th rope I realized how grateful I was for them as it gave my legs a chance to rest.  But then the rope burns kicked in.  Mental note…don’t let your hands slide down the rope as you descend, duh!

At the Bottom

It took us almost 3 hours to get up and about 2.5 to get down, but we made it.  We found a magasin and purchased loads of liquids as we were all out of water.  Sitting in the shade drinking our cold beverages was blissful, but we still had 3.4 miles to get back to Vaiati.  Here is a shot of the mountain from other side at Fa’anui.

Descent down and look back at top

Descent down and look back at top

Rachel stuck her thumb out and wouldn’t you know it, a small “Eurocar” stopped.  We squeezed all 5 of us into this car and thanked the driver profusely.  The driver works at Eurcar and had seen us start the hike as we passed by her office.  She was really impressed that we chose the path that we did as it was the most challenging path up to the top!  Oh dear, had we known.  She gave us a ride all the way back to town, smelly, muddy, and dirty and all.  What an angel!

We removed our disgusting shoes and socks, soaked our feet in the water.  Matt drove us around To’opua and back to our anchorage where we dropped the Agape crew off.  We all had plans of floating and possibly dinner later.  Matt and I jumped in with our snorkels so we could submerge our faces in the water.  It was incredibly refreshing, but not long into my swim my legs cramped up.  Back to the boat, quick rinse and stretching.  Man, my body was mad it me.  I took a few advil, drank lots of liquids and rested.  Found myself in bed at 1900.

The Reward

It might have been a “death march,” but what a reward.  Had it not been for Rachel’s persistence and encouragement, I would have never accomplished this adventure.

I was so proud of myself for being able to push my body to the limits and succeeding.  Even though we have hiked higher, faster, and farther, this was probably the most challenging hike I have ever done.  A total of 6+ hours from boat departure to boat return.  Fallen trees, boulders, and rappelling couldn’t stop us from reaching the summit.   Relishing the striking views of the bay, lagoon, towns, and peaks will live forever in my heart and dreams. And triumph would not have been nearly as special had not been done with our friends Josh, Rachel, and Nicola.

Jaws is Here

Jaws has Nothing on Bora Bora

We are blessed with so many fascinating friends in this truly unique and special community we call “cruisers.”  You’re probably wondering why I mention that under the title “Jaws has nothing on Bora Bora” post.  Well, first, we realized that several of our cruising community have arrived in Bora Bora and we all picked up a mooring in the anchorage off the To’opua Motu.  Agape, Argo and Athanor are all nestled in here.  It is pretty crowded, but there is lots of swing room for everyone.

Agape came and got us and took us to a spot just outside the reef.  We jumped in the water which was about 10 meters deep and were immediately surrounded by a school of black tip sharks.  There had to be at least 2 dozen floating around.  The top two sharks are “lemon sharks” and the bottom are black tip sharks.

Black tip sharks off Bora Bora

Black tip sharks off Bora Bora

Within a few minutes, Josh and Rachel spotted the lemon sharks.  Wowza, they were at least 2 meters long and thick in the middle.  Looked like they already at a tourist or two as they were only gliding around us.  The top two are lemon sharks and the bottom is a black tip shark.

Lemon Sharks

Lemon Sharks

Who is canvassing who?

I decided to have some fun with a few pictures.  The top photo just seemed like a snap shot out of Jaws (without the blood and gore).  Matt took the center photo.  It is our friend Niccola’s feet in the foreground of the sharks as she sits in the dinghy.  The last photo is a local guide who was showing off for his guests. Yes, he is riding a lemon shark who didn’t seem to mind the hitch hiker.

Crazy antics with sharks

Crazy antics with sharks

Rachel has a new GoPro and took these fish filled photos of our shark encounters.  Yes, that is one of the guides in his underwear standing on a lemon shark.  The one on the left seems to be hearing the theme song from Jaws…dunit dunit…

Photos courtesy of Rachel Moore

Photos courtesy of Rachel Moore

Proof that I swam with Jaws, well not really, as these sharks were tamed by man and hand feeding.  But still, it got your heart pumping being with these majestic beasts.

Me swimming with lemon and black tip sharks

Me swimming with lemon and black tip sharks

Agape has a smaller dinghy and outboard than us, so we took Rachel in Sweetie.  She got some funny pics of Josh and Niccola trying to keep up with us.

Josh and Niccola trying to keep up with Sweetie

Josh and Niccola trying to keep up with Sweetie

The next morning, we were blessed with a truly breathtaking sunrise over Mt. Pahia.

Sunset over Mt Pahia, Bora Bora

Sunset over Mt Pahia, Bora Bora

STING RAY CITY – BORA BORA

Bora Bora has its own Sting Ray city located about 100 meters off starboard.  We gathered up the crew from Agape and headed over.  Another fun shallow spot filled with lots of sting rays and black tip sharks.  Jaws was absent today.

Josh and Rachel are expert free divers. Josh can hold his breath for over 5 minutes!  It is a spectacular site to watch these two under the sea.  I can usually only go 2-3 meters below the surface while snorkeling so I can’t even begin to capture their free diving to the depths that they can go.

Josh and Rachel free diving

Josh and Rachel free diving

The water is only 4’ deep in this area.  By the time you get to the sea bed the sting rays jettison past you.  So, I played footsies with most of them.  They are so soft to the touch.  Not like cashmere but more like velvet.  I’m not stepping on them, just hovering above them so when they flap their giant wings, they tickle my foot.

Petting the sting rays

Petting the sting rays

It is a true blessing to be able to swim and enjoy the underwater world with such magnificent creatures.

Saying goodbye to John, Missy, and Carl

A Jewel to a Gem: Taha’a & Bora Bora

Taha’a is a lovely jewel of an island.  There are so many isolated anchorages, islets and motus to explore.  Our first stop was the Taurau Islet near Coral Gardens.  Matt and I snorkeled this beautiful pass twice before with Wayne and then again with Rocco and Lindi.  We were anxious to experience its wonders again.

Coral Gardens – the Island Jewel

We felt the current immediately after jumping in the water.  Hmmmm.  We had heard there was a current here which required walking on shore to the end and drifting back to the dinghy.  However, we had not experienced it.  Today, was different.  We tried, valiantly I might add, to swim upstream.  I was leading, with Carl, Missy, and John behind me.  We made it about half way before we all decided to swim to shore.  It was exhausting.   You had to be in full swim mode to move the slightest distance.  Not normally a problem, but it is too shallow to do full swim strokes – you can only do frog strokes/kicks.  Shots below are near a calm section of the gardens.

Coral Gardens with Carl

Coral Gardens with Carl

A short walk to the end.  We jumped back in and did a rather rapid drift snorkel.  You had to grab and hold on to coral to stop.  It made it hard to photograph the sea life.  It was pretty and kind of fun to drift back, but I missed all the sea life.  The soft corals and sea anemones were hidden and the fish with only in small patchy areas.  Our little jewel of a snorkel spot turned out to be different this time around.

Coral Gardens Snorkel

Coral Gardens Snorkel

Vanilla Tour Taha’a

John, Missy, and Carl went on the Taha’a Vanilla Tour with Noah.   It was super cool to share that experience with them.  I knew Missy and Carl would love the flora and fauna lessons. It’s impossible not to see the shimmery brilliance of this island jewel.

The crew jumped in for a night snorkel and explored a coral head off the back of the boat.  The green light brings out all sorts of critters.

Herb Garden

Missy has been helping me tend to my new herb garden.  We have basil, coriander and a tomato plant.  Carl found a half coconut with two eye indents and a small hole making it a cute little face.  It earned a spot in the garden

Herb Garden on board

Herb Garden on board

Passage: Taha’a to Bora Bora

It is a short 23nm from Taha’a to Bora bora.  The weather forecasted a downward wind pattern at 10-12kts.  Perfect for the kite (spinnaker).  As you might recall, we ripped our small spinnaker which is good in 15-20kts of wind.  The large spinnaker (Big Bertha) is only good in 8-17kts.

We had Big Bertha up and flying for all of an hour before the winds got too strong and we took her down.  It was a shame because not 30 minutes later the winds stayed below 15kts.  But we did have a stroke of good fortune.  As we approached the Bora Bora pass, we caught a 20-25lb Wahoo!

Wahoooooooo

Wahoooooooo

Carl, with a little help from John and Matt reeled this beauty in.  She will provide about 20 meals.  Matt has been hoping for a Wahoo for a very long, long time.  You couldn’t wipe the smile off his face!

Wahoo Reeled in by Carl

Wahoo Reeled in by Carl

Bora Bora – The French Polynesian Gem

We rolled into the Poofai Bay anchorage early afternoon.  A stop at Bloody Mary’s was needed after a restful afternoon.  A little internetting, cocktails and a snack and we were all jubilant.

Bloody Mary's Bar with the Lembergers

Bloody Mary’s Bar with the Lembergers

We had a relaxing morning after a tasty French toast breakfast.  Matt drove us around the tip of the island to the SW side. Probably not the wisest thing we’ve done as the strong winds were coming from the SW.  It was a wet and wild ride!  Better than a roller coaster and wetter than the log jammer.  He dropped us off at Fa’ a’oporo Bay so we could do a walk about.

John, Missy, Carl and I found the beach access and started toward it.  As our feet touched the sand, John noticed Matt sitting in Sweetie in the middle of the bay.  Not sure how we managed that – but sweet!  We all enjoyed a cold beverage (or two) and a tasty snack for lunch at the Bora Bora Yacht Club.  Talk about a beautiful view.

Bora Bora Yacht Club Lunch

Bora Bora Yacht Club Lunch

Matt took the dinghy back around the corner as it was faster and easier with one person.  The rest of us walked along the beach toward Bloody Mary’s.  We stopped at a little corner of the beach that was pretty secluded.  Carl swam while Missy and I collected sea shells.

Walk along Bora's coast

Walk along Bora’s coast

Missy and I went for a short walk and captured some beautiful sunset shots of the Bora Bora peaks.  Showcasing the jewel of the island – the sunset.

Sunset shots on Bora Bora

Sunset shots on Bora Bora

Saying Goodbye is Always Hard

It was time for our good friends to head back to the states.  Always sad to let go.  We had so much fun showing them around the Society Archipelago.  We visited Tahiti, Mo’orea, Huahine, Raiatea, Taha’a and Bora Bora.  Lots of islands in a short time, but we did it!  Thank you, John, Missy, and Carl, for the amazing memories and good times.

Bora Bora Airport

Bora Bora Airport