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Moai on Easter Island

Explorers of Easter Island

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After 11 days at sea, we were thrilled to pull into the busy bay of Hanga Roa. We thankfully arrived at this anchorage in the middle of the day.  Normally a quiet location, but when we arrived, there was a container ship making its monthly delivery of supplies and the National Geographic Cruise Ship.  These two vessels were anchored next to 10 other sailboats.  Who knew Easter Island would be so busy?  We were in good company.  We dropped the hook in 20 meters of water (yep, super deep), let out all of our new stainless-steel chain and attached the bridle at 90 meters.

This is a pretty exposed anchorage.  On top of that, the entrance to shore is through the breakwater which has large, threatening, crashing waves.  It is very intimidating!  We watched a few pangas make the run before we decided to brave it ourselves.  Counting, 1, 2, 3, zip in.

Hangoa Roa at Easter Island

Hangoa Roa at Easter Island

Once inside the breakwater, you have to navigate around dangling lines, pangas, and other small watercraft.  All boats use painters (lines at the bow of the boat) and stern ties.  It took us awhile to figure out how to secure Sweetie.  Our visas expire soon so we don’t have much time to play.  We arrived in Chile on 1 January and spent the better part of 2 months sailing down the coast to Valdivia.  We knew it would take us a few weeks to get Easter Island (which is also Chilean) so we had hustle.  This only left with 4.5 days to explore this fascinating island.

Hanga Roa Dingy Access

Hanga Roa Dingy Access

MOAI MONUMENTS

Once ashore you are immediately greeted by several MOAI!  I think I took photos of every single one I passed.  I was enthralled and in awe!  We checked in with the Armada, found the petrol station, got a new SIM card, and began exploring.

Entering Hanga Roa

Entering Hanga Roa

Everything seems so much more vibrant on Easter island.  The greens are greener and the blues are bluer.  It takes your breath away just walking among these statues carved out of volcanic rock.

Carved Volcanic Rock Statues

Carved Volcanic Rock Statues

This beautiful MOAI was carved on both sides (front and back) in an intricate design that surprises you as walk around him.

MOAI with designs on front and back

MOAI with designs on front and back

Beyond the Coast Adventures

We walked around the coast, exploring on our own.  We scheduled a tour for Saturday, but it didn’t cover the entire island.  So, we decided to check out the sights not listed as part of our tour.  The only problem is that we don’t have anyone to explain the stories of the MOAI and many don’t have signs.  But they were all beautiful to behold.  A lot of the MOAI are near large bodies of water and along the coast.

Enjoying an inspiring moment

Enjoying an inspiring moment

We came across a circle of carved statues in the middle of a grassy park.  We do not know the name or historical value of this beautiful little reflecting area, but we admired it none the less.

Prayer Area

Prayer Area

As we continued down the coast, we found the “old cemetery.”  The most amazing thing about this cemetery is that they actually grow plants, grass and flowers on top of the graves. It looked like a giant garden.  They have a “newer” cemetery on the other side of the island.

Cemetery with live gardens

Cemetery with live gardens

We found a large grouping of MOAI at Tahai.  They had several MOAI with hats and a few without.  They also had 6-MOAI together depicting their respective leaders.

Tahai Moai

Tahai Moai

Just off the main road is their local church which rang its bells on the hour.  We also enjoyed browsing the mercardo artesenal, and had lunch at a local eatery overlooking Tahai.

MOAI on Easter Island

The Moai of Easter Island

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The moai are a mystery because there are so many different variations to their origins and the reasoning behind their creation, location, and destruction.  Many stories mention dissent among the people, lots of fighting and a very disruptive society.

However, based on a new study, the history has proven to be very different. This study painted a new picture of a new sophisticate and collaborative society based on excavations  four of the statues and the volcanic stone basalt tools used to carve them.  It is now believed that the full body, 13-ton monuments represent important Rapa Nui ancestors.  There are over 900 statues, many buried up to their heads due to the passage of time.  The largest statue is over 70’ tall.  Just admiring the sheer size and number is indicative of a complex, sophisticated society.

Ancient Rapa Nui had chiefs, priests, and guilds of workers who fished, farmed, and made the moai. There was a certain level of sociopolitical organization that was needed to carve almost a thousand statues.

Rapa Nui’s mysterious statues stand in silence but speak volumes about the achievements of their creators. The stone blocks carved into head-and-torso figures, average 13 feet (4 meters) tall and 14 tons. The effort to construct these monuments and move them around the island must have been considerable.  Even though, most scholars now suspect that they were created to honor important personages, it’s impossible to be certain.  Primarily because there is no written and little oral history exists on the island, so it’s impossible to be certain.

How did they build and move these giant monuments?

  1. The MOAI was outlined on the rock, a slow chiseling process.
  2. From the outline, they carved the MOAI out of the rock. The left a “heal” on its back, keeping a connection to the bed-rock.
  3. The keel is removed, and the MOAI is slid down the slope using a multitude of round trees or rocks.
  4. The MOAI is then placed in a pt so that the carving of its back can be finished.
MOAI Carving from Museum

MOAI Carving from Museum

We visited the MAPSE Museo Rapanui museum which was free and fairly easy to find.  They had pieces of MOAI along with ancient artifacts.  We discovered that of the hundreds of MOAI, less than 10 were female.  One of the female MOAI is at the museum (top right photos)

Museum Photos

Museum Photos

With so many MOAI to see it will be hard to get it all in during our short stay, but I promise you we will try!

History of Easter Island – Rapa Nui

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Easter Island is a historical, yet magical and mystical island.  It’s a dream come true to see this stunning island and the majestic moai in person.  In Spanish, Easter Island is called Isla Pasqua and the locals call it Rapa Nui.  This island sits more than 2300 nautical miles NW of Chile and is considered one of the most isolated places on earth.  However, the remote volcanic island is on our route to French Polynesia and will be a very welcome stop for Sugar Shack.

Easter Island’s mystery is centered around the most logic-defying statues on the planet: the moai.  These human depictions with over-sized heads emanate a magnetic, mysterious vibe.  They are mounted on massive stone pedestals called “Ahus.”  Stay tuned for a blog solely on the history of the moai.

How Did Easter Island Get It’s Start?

You might wonder, as I did, how a society blossomed in this unlikely place?  Somewhere around 300-400 A.D., several hardy souls navigated a fleet of wooden outrigger canoes to Isla Pasqua in the vastness of the Pacific Ocean.  Today, the population is roughly 3,300 people on what is now known as a World Heritage site.

Easter Island was formed by a series of volcanic eruptions.  It is an isolated triangle measuring 14 miles long by seven miles wide. In addition to its hilly terrain, the island contains many subterranean caves with corridors that extend deep into mountains of volcanic rock. The island’s largest volcano is known as Rano Kao, and its highest point is Mount Terevaka, which reaches 1,969 feet (600 meters) above sea level. It has a subtropical climate (sunny and dry) and temperate weather.

There is no “natural harbor” here, but ships can anchor off Hanga Roa on the west coast.  This is the only anchorage with “decent” access to shore. You do have to brave through the breakwater which has waves peaking over 2 meters.

Hangoa Roa at Easter Island

Hangoa Roa at Easter Island

On Shore

It is fairly easy to get around, by foot, bus, taxi, bike, or horseback.  The island’s economy depends on tourism and things are not cheap.  You can find decent provisioning between the multitude of small tiendas, but there is no true “market.”  Plenty of touristy stores can be found off the main road.  But other than that, you won’t find much.

Horses, cows and dogs roam freely among the locals and tourist.  The sun shines brightly against the brilliant blue water surrounding the lush, green island.  It is truly a breathtaking sight to behold.

Locals hanging out Easter Island

Locals hanging out Easter Island

The armada even has a pretty sculpted piece in front of the building

Armada on Easter Island

Armada on Easter Island

The only church on the island is just off the main road, in the center of town.

Church on Easter Island

Church on Easter Island

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