Tag Archives: kanak

Isle de Pines

Ile des Pins: Captain Cook Stopped and Stared

If someone handed you a paintbrush and asked you to create the perfect tropical island, you’d probably end up with something very close to the Isle des Pins aka Ile de Pins.

Located about 60 kilometers south of Nouméa, the Ile des Pins earned its name in 1774 when Captain James Cook spotted the island’s towering columnar pine trees rising dramatically above the horizon.

He was shocked at the scene before him and aptly named them Ile des Pins.

To sailors approaching from sea, those distinctive pines must have looked like nature’s version of a welcome sign.

After dropping the hook and sitting on a mooring, we were in awe of the beautiful pines.

These tall narrow pines, scientific name “Araucaria columnaris” stand 10-20 meters (32 – 65 feet) above the canopy of any neighboring trees and can reach heights up to 60 meters (196 feet).  It is quite an arresting scene.

Today, the island is not only famous for its pines but also for its crystal-clear waters, white-sand beaches, and the stunning natural swimming pool of Oro Bay. The water is so clear that fish seem to float in mid-air, leaving visitors wondering if they’ve accidentally wandered into a screensaver.

But beneath all that beauty lies an interesting history. The island is home to the Kanak people, who have lived here for centuries.

An Island Prison

During the late 1800s, the French used the island as a penal colony, sending political prisoners here after the Paris Commune. Not exactly the tropical vacation package advertised today.

Villages were set up for prisoners, refugees, and workers.

You can visit remnants of old buildings still standing from the 1800’s.

We found a church, the prison wall, a bunker, and an ammunition storage.

Wes tumbled across the old jail compound which is very eerie.

Old Jail

Old Jail

Remains of a Penal Colony – an old water tank. from 1874

The Vagina and Penis Peninsula 

In the neighboring bay of Kanumera you will find the penis peninsula and the Vagina Rock.  Both interesting names.  

The Vagina Rock is a sacred rock where the locals believe that couples can spend the night here with the hope of conceiving children.

It is a stunning rock that has a beautiful, white sandy path leading from shore during low tide.

Once we crossed over the path we saw up in the bushes the “boom boom room” where we assume the locals go to try to get pregnant.

A Tradition of Carving

As soon as we stepped foot onto the island we were greeted with towering, hand-carved tikis.  

We were lucky enough to catch one of the carvers hard at work.

Locals place these carvings all around the island, near the docks, near important sites, buildings, and homes.

Now, tourism and traditional Kanak culture peacefully share the island. Visitors come for the snorkeling, diving, and scenery, but often leave with an appreciation for the island’s rich heritage and unique way of life.

The Ile des Pins may look like paradise—and it certainly is—but it’s also a reminder that every beautiful place has a story beneath the surface.

One clever local turned plastic bottles into jelly fish art.

Find Ile des Pins on No Foreign Land.

Our blog posts run 7-8 weeks behind actual live events.

We visited Ile des Pins toward the end of June 2026.

Did Matt name an island after himself?  Be sure to read about it.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Where the Heck is New Caledonia?

New Caledonia is a small island country situated between Fiji and Australia.  It’s lagoon is one of the largest enclosed lagoon systems in the world, stretching over 24,000 square kilometers.  In addition, the lagoon is protected by the world’s second-largest continuous coral reef After Australia’s Great Barrier reef.

It is a place of turquoise lagoons, welcoming anchorages, and enough baguettes to make you forget you’re in the South Pacific.

But beneath the palm trees lies a fascinating and sometimes complicated history.

New Caledonia was first inhabited by the Kanak people around 3,000 years ago. European contact arrived much later when British explorer Captain James Cook sighted the islands in 1774. He thought the rugged landscape looked similar to Scotland and named it “Caledonia,” the Roman name for Scotland. Since “New Scotland” didn’t have quite the same ring to it, New Caledonia was born.

Image courtesy of CHESHER

Image courtesy of CHESHER

France annexed the islands in 1853 and later used them as a penal colony. France sent more than 20,000 convicts here. In fact, some of those prisoners stayed after serving their sentences, and many present-day families can trace their roots back to those early settlers. 

Today, New Caledonia remains a French territory, making it one of the more unique places in the Pacific. The official language is French, the currency is the CFP Franc, and you’ll find croissants, fine cheese, and excellent wine surprisingly close to some of the world’s most beautiful coral reefs.

The population is just under 300,000 people, with roughly 40% identifying as Kanak, alongside communities of European, Polynesian, Asian, and other Pacific Island heritage. The capital, Nouméa, is home to nearly half the population and feels more like a slice of the French Riviera than a typical South Pacific town.

So how does New Caledonia make its money?

The answer is nickel.

The islands sit atop some of the world’s largest nickel reserves. New Cal has long been one of the planet’s major producers. Many countries use Nickel in stainless steel and increasingly in batteries for electric vehicles, making it a highly valuable resource. For decades, mining has been the backbone of the economy, though fluctuating global prices have created challenges in recent years.

And here’s a fun fact: New Caledonia is home to the kagu, a rare flightless bird found nowhere else on Earth. With its striking crest and unusual barking call, it looks like something Mother Nature designed after a particularly long lunch.

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Images courtesy of A-Z Animals and iStock

Like many places in the Pacific, New Caledonia is balancing tradition, modernity, and questions about its future. Political discussions surrounding autonomy and independence remain important topics.

In recent years the country has seen periods of unrest as different groups debate the islands’ path forward.

The Kanaks are known for their warm nature, rich culture, and the remarkable natural beauty that surrounds them.

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Image courtesy of New Caledonia Tourism

Matt and I are very excited to adventure through New Caledonia. 

New Caledonia is a landfall of emerald mountains, crystal-clear water, fresh baguettes, and the comforting knowledge that paradise occasionally comes with French pastries.

Not a bad combination.

We plan to spend 2.5-3 months exploring Grande Terre (the main island) and its surrounding islands as well as Isle de Pines.

Our blog posts run 6-8 weeks behind actual events.  We arrived in New Caledonia in early June 2026.